Adjustable Razors:The Very Best Way to Get a Close, Comfortable Shave

[emwolf]

i use a homemade pre-shave oil and it varies as far as ingredients. I sometimes use grapeseed oil, avacado oil or olive oil. Castor oil is usually part of it as is tea tree oil.

 

[Antony]

Been using this method since purchasing a MingShi Futur clone. Absolutely in love with both the product and this method.

Last week I had a great shave with the Merkur Slant, but still, next day went back to the MingShi.

I loving this method so much that I have no idea when I'll start rotation again.

 

[NDM63]

Been using this method since purchasing a MingShi Futur clone. Absolutely in love with both the product and this method.

Last week I had a great shave with the Merkur Slant, but still, next day went back to the MingShi.

I loving this method so much that I have no idea when I'll start rotation again.

Thanks for your enthusiastic response! Most people who try this method love it, after they have experimented a little with the precise gradations that work for them. I appreciate your open-minded willingness to try this out. I only wish more people would follow your example, because for most people, it results in a very close comfortable shave!

 

[NDM63]

i use a homemade pre-shave oil and it varies as far as ingredients. I sometimes use grapeseed oil, avacado oil or olive oil. Castor oil is usually part of it as is tea tree oil.

Actually, I forgot that I too add a little grape seed oil. I've found adding vitamin E oil is helpful. I make the pre-shave oil in small batches, because it lasts so long and is pennies to make, compared to commercial offerings.

 

[Wolverines]

i use a homemade pre-shave oil and it varies as far as ingredients. I sometimes use grapeseed oil, avacado oil or olive oil. Castor oil is usually part of it as is tea tree oil.

Thank you.

 

[Wolverines]

Actually, I forgot that I too add a little grape seed oil. I've found adding vitamin E oil is helpful. I make the pre-shave oil in small batches, because it lasts so long and is pennies to make, compared to commercial offerings.

Thank you.

 

[Wolverines]

I tried going the Noxzema route (versus the more expensive Proraso pre-shave) when I first started and it may have helped a little but unless I was using C.O. Bigelow cream the Noxzema just took over the scent of the soap I was using so stopped. May try some mixture as described above to see if it provides any noticeable benefit.

 

[NDM63]

I tried going the Noxzema route (versus the more expensive Proraso pre-shave) when I first started and it may have helped a little but unless I was using C.O. Bigelow cream the Noxzema just took over the scent of the soap I was using so stopped. May try some mixture as described above to see if it provides any noticeable benefit.

Hey everyone,
keep posting your reviews of this method and please fill out the poll. So far those that try this really like it, so please give your feedback. Thanks folks!

 

[Cphobes]

I started using an adjustable at the beginning of the year. I have a 1975 Super Adjustable 109 which was tuned up by the Captain. I love it, it's a fun razor. I got into the habit after a month or so with the following routine:

Two passes, first pass WTG on 5 and second pass W/X/ATG on 6, the 2nd pass directions vary on areas of my face. Lather between, shower AFTER I shave. I face lather with a synthetic brush and Arko (sometimes Captain's Choice 45th parallel which I'm saving as I absolutely love it). Post shower just a simple shave balm and face cream. I have a goatee (no mustache) and side burns that go about 3/4 the length of my ears.

Hearing about the MingShi I ordered one from the Qshave for $8.99 shipped. I've been curious about this as well as the Parker adjustable (I have not bought this, yet...). For $8.99 how can you beat that, even if it's a piece of junk (which it is NOT).

I started out with the MingShi on 2 & 3 and have moved up to 3 & 4 using the same method with the SA109 I have. Overall I think the shaves are comparable, I could likely move up maybe a 1/2 a setting on the MingShi (3.5 & 4.5).

I do not strive for BBS, though this razor is making me re-think it. DFS is just fine for me and my face.

One significant difference between the SA109 and MingShi s2000 is that I have had zero issues on my neck area with the MingShi. The SA109 has always given me problems on the lower left side I have not experienced this at all with the MingShi. Also, ATG shaving which I only do in one area has been very smooth so I may change up how I perform my 2nd pass to include more ATG.

It has been a joy so far to use, heavier by about 32 grams and about the same length. I am partial to the shorter handles and wish there was a version similar to the shorter Super Adjustable but that's ok.

Overall I'm considering purchasing a 2nd for my youngest son who has shown an interest in using it.

Purchasing through the online website and waiting can be a pain but it was well worth the wait for shipping from China.

For anyone considering an adjustable, I'd recommend it.

-Stephen

 

[kingfisher]

It may or may not be a better way to use an adjustable, but the lawn mower analogy is fundamentally flawed. With the lawn mower, if you "up the aggressiveness" you are actually moving the blades CLOSER to the ground. With a razor, when you "up the aggressiveness" you are actually moving the blade FARTHER from your face. You are INCREASING the blade gap.

Beyond that, the idea doesn't really make much sense on a fundamental level. Why would you need more aggressiveness when you have less stubble to shave? Think about it. If you were to shave every day versus waiting 5 or 6 days to shave, in which case would you feel like more aggression would be most valuable? I'd definitely think more aggression would be better when I had waited 6 days to shave, because there is longer and thicker stubble to cut.

By the same token, the first pass should require more aggression than do subsequent passes.


And no, I've never tried it. I use a Fatboy very frequently, and when I adjust it at all, I adjust it DOWN, not up, with subsequent passes. But usually I don't adjust it at all.

 

[Cphobes]

It may or may not be a better way to use an adjustable, but the lawn mower analogy is fundamentally flawed. With the lawn mower, if you "up the aggressiveness" you are actually moving the blades CLOSER to the ground. With a razor, when you "up the aggressiveness" you are actually moving the blade FARTHER from your face. You are INCREASING the blade gap.

Beyond that, the idea doesn't really make much sense on a fundamental level. Why would you need more aggressiveness when you have less stubble to shave? Think about it. If you were to shave every day versus waiting 5 or 6 days to shave, in which case would you feel like more aggression would be most valuable? I'd definitely think more aggression would be better when I had waited 6 days to shave, because there is longer and thicker stubble to cut.

By the same token, the first pass should require more aggression than do subsequent passes.


And no, I've never tried it. I use a Fatboy very frequently, and when I adjust it at all, I adjust it DOWN, not up, with subsequent passes. But usually I don't adjust it at all.

Hello,

Actually that's what I did originally with the SA109 but I noticed that at least for my limited experience it seemed that I was getting better shaves by increasing the gap from the 1st to the 2nd passes.

So while I sorta follow and agree with your logic in practical experiencing it seems the opposite...

-Stephen

 

[NDM63]

I started using an adjustable at the beginning of the year. I have a 1975 Super Adjustable 109 which was tuned up by the Captain. I love it, it's a fun razor. I got into the habit after a month or so with the following routine:

Two passes, first pass WTG on 5 and second pass W/X/ATG on 6, the 2nd pass directions vary on areas of my face. Lather between, shower AFTER I shave. I face lather with a synthetic brush and Arko (sometimes Captain's Choice 45th parallel which I'm saving as I absolutely love it). Post shower just a simple shave balm and face cream. I have a goatee (no mustache) and side burns that go about 3/4 the length of my ears.

Hearing about the MingShi I ordered one from the Qshave for $8.99 shipped. I've been curious about this as well as the Parker adjustable (I have not bought this, yet...). For $8.99 how can you beat that, even if it's a piece of junk (which it is NOT).

I started out with the MingShi on 2 & 3 and have moved up to 3 & 4 using the same method with the SA109 I have. Overall I think the shaves are comparable, I could likely move up maybe a 1/2 a setting on the MingShi (3.5 & 4.5).

I do not strive for BBS, though this razor is making me re-think it. DFS is just fine for me and my face.

One significant difference between the SA109 and MingShi s2000 is that I have had zero issues on my neck area with the MingShi. The SA109 has always given me problems on the lower left side I have not experienced this at all with the MingShi. Also, ATG shaving which I only do in one area has been very smooth so I may change up how I perform my 2nd pass to include more ATG.

It has been a joy so far to use, heavier by about 32 grams and about the same length. I am partial to the shorter handles and wish there was a version similar to the shorter Super Adjustable but that's ok.

Overall I'm considering purchasing a 2nd for my youngest son who has shown an interest in using it.

Purchasing through the online website and waiting can be a pain but it was well worth the wait for shipping from China.

For anyone considering an adjustable, I'd recommend it.

-Stephen

Thanks for that well expressed review!

 

[NDM63]

It may or may not be a better way to use an adjustable, but the lawn mower analogy is fundamentally flawed. With the lawn mower, if you "up the aggressiveness" you are actually moving the blades CLOSER to the ground. With a razor, when you "up the aggressiveness" you are actually moving the blade FARTHER from your face. You are INCREASING the blade gap.

Beyond that, the idea doesn't really make much sense on a fundamental level. Why would you need more aggressiveness when you have less stubble to shave? Think about it. If you were to shave every day versus waiting 5 or 6 days to shave, in which case would you feel like more aggression would be most valuable? I'd definitely think more aggression would be better when I had waited 6 days to shave, because there is longer and thicker stubble to cut.

By the same token, the first pass should require more aggression than do subsequent passes.


And no, I've never tried it. I use a Fatboy very frequently, and when I adjust it at all, I adjust it DOWN, not up, with subsequent passes. But usually I don't adjust it at all.

See this is where "theory" gets in the way. I argued just like you at first. But I was wrong. Like you, I didn't get it at first. But you have people telling you it works. Yet you theorize. By the way, do you think that if the "blade gap" was say two feet, you would have a very aggresssive razor that was two feet from your face?Why not actually try the method for at least five shaves then report what you find? Experiment with an open mind, and tell us what you find.

 

[Cphobes]

Doesn't increasing blade gap expose more blade to your face? It doesn't necessarily increase the distance between your skin and the blade.

Just a thought...

-Stephen

 

[kingfisher]

See this is where "theory" gets in the way. I argued just like you at first. But I was wrong. Like you, I didn't get it at first. But you have people telling you it works. Yet you theorize. By the way, do you think that if the "blade gap" was say two feet, you would have a very aggresssive razor that was two feet from your face?Why not actually try the method for at least five shaves then report what you find? Experiment with an open mind, and tell us what you find.

The blade is not moving farther from your face, the guard is.

The other problem with the mower analogy is the only reason you would start with the mower blades far away from the ground when you had thick grass is that the blades spin, and they get bogged down if they don't have enough power to get through the grass. By way of contrast, a razor blade can plow right through 4 or 5 days' stubble without any problems.

As far as what I actually do with my razors, I do what makes sense.

And since I like theories so much, I have a theory as to why you think it's better to use a more aggressive setting for subsequent passes. Here's my theory. When an adjustable razor is set to a very open, aggressive setting, the usable, functional angle window is much wider. In other words, you can get cutting from the razor through a wide range of angles of attack. Therefore, the razor is much more forgiving of lapses in technique. The narrower, less aggressive settings require the user to maintain a very specific blade angle and are very unforgiving of lapses. If the razor angle of attack is even a few scant degrees off, cutting is impaired or even becomes non-existent.

As your stubble gets shorter from prior passes, it becomes more and more important that a good angle be maintained. It follows that opening up the razor to a more aggressive setting makes it easier to cut the stubble. With shorter stubble requiring more control, you like the razor to require less, so that things even out, so to speak.

In other words, opening up the razor to a more aggressive setting works better for you because it is more forgiving. Shavers with very good to excellent technique have no need of more forgiveness because they are able to maintain their preferred shaving angle to very precise tolerances.

 

[kingfisher]

Doesn't increasing blade gap expose more blade to your face? It doesn't necessarily increase the distance between your skin and the blade.

Just a thought...

-Stephen

Opening up the blade gap generally does not "expose more blade to your face," per se. Blade exposure and blade gap are separate issues, although on the Gillette adjustables, I believe that exposure does increase very slightly as blade gap increases.

What increasing blade gap really does is allow your face to come in contact with the blade edge through a wider range of angles. If you apply some pressure, it also allows your skin to sort of fold into the gap more, which at least theoretically could get the blade closer (probably exfoliating a bit more).

 

[Luukii]

The blade is not moving farther from your face, the guard is.

The other problem with the mower analogy is the only reason you would start with the mower blades far away from the ground when you had thick grass is that the blades spin, and they get bogged down if they don't have enough power to get through the grass. By way of contrast, a razor blade can plow right through 4 or 5 days' stubble without any problems.

As far as what I actually do with my razors, I do what makes sense.

And since I like theories so much, I have a theory as to why you think it's better to use a more aggressive setting for subsequent passes. Here's my theory. When an adjustable razor is set to a very open, aggressive setting, the usable, functional angle window is much wider. In other words, you can get cutting from the razor through a wide range of angles of attack. Therefore, the razor is much more forgiving of lapses in technique. The narrower, less aggressive settings require the user to maintain a very specific blade angle and are very unforgiving of lapses. If the razor angle of attack is even a few scant degrees off, cutting is impaired or even becomes non-existent.

As your stubble gets shorter from prior passes, it becomes more and more important that a good angle be maintained. It follows that opening up the razor to a more aggressive setting makes it easier to cut the stubble. With shorter stubble requiring more control, you like the razor to require less, so that things even out, so to speak.

In other words, opening up the razor to a more aggressive setting works better for you because it is more forgiving. Shavers with very good to excellent technique have no need of more forgiveness because they are able to maintain their preferred shaving angle to very precise tolerances.

I think you are right in a way about this, I think that a bigger gap makes it easier ti get the ATG pass. I will test to stay at the same setting and do the same. But when shaving my head it's nice to not have to have perfect technique. Hard enough to shave by feel

But I am in no way an expert. This is just my opinion, but less passes is less irritation for me. So maybe when I am a more experienced wetshaver I can add more of an input.

 

[ddown]

I try to get more with less, more aggressive setting first. ATG on neck dial down 1 number

 

[NDM63]

The blade is not moving farther from your face, the guard is.

The other problem with the mower analogy is the only reason you would start with the mower blades far away from the ground when you had thick grass is that the blades spin, and they get bogged down if they don't have enough power to get through the grass. By way of contrast, a razor blade can plow right through 4 or 5 days' stubble without any problems.

As far as what I actually do with my razors, I do what makes sense.

And since I like theories so much, I have a theory as to why you think it's better to use a more aggressive setting for subsequent passes. Here's my theory. When an adjustable razor is set to a very open, aggressive setting, the usable, functional angle window is much wider. In other words, you can get cutting from the razor through a wide range of angles of attack. Therefore, the razor is much more forgiving of lapses in technique. The narrower, less aggressive settings require the user to maintain a very specific blade angle and are very unforgiving of lapses. If the razor angle of attack is even a few scant degrees off, cutting is impaired or even becomes non-existent.

As your stubble gets shorter from prior passes, it becomes more and more important that a good angle be maintained. It follows that opening up the razor to a more aggressive setting makes it easier to cut the stubble. With shorter stubble requiring more control, you like the razor to require less, so that things even out, so to speak.

In other words, opening up the razor to a more aggressive setting works better for you because it is more forgiving. Shavers with very good to excellent technique have no need of more forgiveness because they are able to maintain their preferred shaving angle to very precise tolerances.

Sorry I don't buy your interpretation. Evidence and practice is against you. So is logic. Have you actually tried shaving using this method, or are you too in love with your own theory to give it a try?

 

[NDM63]

I try to get more with less, more aggressive setting first. ATG on neck dial down 1 number

Have you tried five shaves doing the opposite?