Achieving BBS

[mbrossar]

For those who are achieving BBS, do you mind sharing how you do it, the tools you use and any consequences?

I am able to achieve a good BBS but with consequences. I'm trying to figure out if this is just the nature of the beast, if my form needs further refinement or if different tools would help. The consequences I'm talking about is little weepers and minor neck irritation. Above the jawline handles it all pretty well. Also, because of the minor cuts, if I sweat during the day (like play soccer, etc), my neck stings.

I'm using a Merkur HD. I'm currently comparing Derbies and Feathers. I get a BBS with both, but the Feathers seem to work a little better. My face dries out by the time I get to shaving after the shower, so I put a hot towel on for about a minute. Perhaps I need better prep, but currently this is about all I do. I'm using Trumper Violet soap and doing a 4 pass shave.
1. N-S
2. Gillette slide from nose/chin/neck to ear. Several strokes. That's just the direction of the strokes.
3. Gillette slide from ear to nose/chin/neck.
4. Very light S-N with a little blade buffing in the rough spots. I do notice a bit of grabbing and pulling in spots on this pass. The blades are new, so I don't think it's a dullness issue, but I could be wrong.

Generally speaking, I'm loving the BBS and would hate to give it up for the sake of the irritation, but I'm not sure if the constant irritation is worth it. I'm curious if...
1. Everyone achieving a BBS has some irritation that goes along with it.
2. People use a more agressive razor and don't go S-N.
3. People use a more agressive razor and still go S-N.
4. Better prep/beard softening
5. Something else?

 

[Leche]

That area is really tough. Personally I have several directions of growth. Try brushing the area longer and do more reduction passes. Also really study your growth patterns, I learned more about my neck when I started using a straight. Lastly a DFS without irritation may be better than a BBS with irritation. Hopefully you will be able to obtain irritation free BBS.

 

[strat1117]

Patience. You must let BBS happen. If you try to force it, iritation and other nasties will ensue. It is the ideal, not the benchmark. I take with a grain of salt the relatively new shavers who claim to achieve BBS on a regular basis. Just keep at it, and it will come to you; little by little.

Enjoy!

 

[ari95]

I'll be honest and say that most days I could not achieve BBS without getting much irritation. I want to look presentable and feel fresh, a DFS is all I usually get. The right side of my neck is the worst for me if I go at it too much it gets red, and sensitive. With all that said I do occasionally get BBS almost all over. The razor seems to make little difference, but the sharpness of the blade is a major factor. Good prep and and a sharp blade will get me close to BBS. If I haven't shaved for a day or so, and do more passes with less pressure, or a less agressive razor, it is generally smooth and irritation free.

 

[Brodirt]

For me its a matter of three things:

1. The right tools, and that is my Slant and any one of a group of top notch blades. Each blade is equally able to achieve BBS its just a matter of how strictly I must pay attention and/or how willing I am to tolerate a bit of irritation or weepers;

2. The right lather. I seem to be able to achieve BBS better with certain products versus other. During the past couple of weeks the easiest route to BBS has been through Spieck and Tabac. Those 2 have been giving me BBS with no irritation or weepers across a spectrum of blades.

3. The right method. This really means having the little extra time too shave every section of my beard in the correct direction, and most importantly, tightening my skin in the correct opposing direction. I find that the skin pulling makes the single greatest contribution to a BBS shave.

 

[mbrossar]

Thanks all. Is ATG a part of everyone's BBS method? I'm not sure how you would achieve it without going ATG, but I also see a lot of posts never to go ATG. Wondering if that also means settling for DFS. I know, BBS is an ideal and there's nothing wrong with a DFS, especially when it's the difference between some irritation and none at all. Just curious. This is how we learn after all.

 

[Lenny]

Slant + Astra, Somersets shaving oil, mild facial wash. Soak in bath for 10-15minutes after washing face with facial wash. Shaving oil, wtg, atg and then touch up. Im getting BBS pretty much every shave now. I think you need time to find your razor, blades, technique, soap, cream or oil.

 

[Brodirt]

Thanks all. Is ATG a part of everyone's BBS method? I'm not sure how you would achieve it without going ATG, but I also see a lot of posts never to go ATG. Wondering if that also means settling for DFS. I know, BBS is an ideal and there's nothing wrong with a DFS, especially when it's the difference between some irritation and none at all. Just curious. This is how we learn after all.

I believe ATG is a requisite for BBS, but as we know YMMV. I wouldnt be able to get my BBS without ATG and properly stretching my skin to stand the hairs while I go ATG.

The result though is worth it when you get your technique down. I shaved at 9:30pm last night, was BBS then, was BBS when I left the house this AM, and am DFS still now at 5:13.

 

[strat1117]

I believe ATG is a requisite for BBS, but as we know YMMV. I wouldnt be able to get my BBS without ATG and properly stretching my skin to stand the hairs while I go ATG.

Agreed. But, remember, it takes time, patience and practice to do this correctly. You can't just get it from reading about it.

Enjoy!

 

[pcb01]

I always shoot for BBS -- I have since the first wetshaving attempt. I almost always get there. The difference is that after several months, there is much less irritation. Usually a little alum sting that goes away with some balm, and then nothing worse than feeling I've scrubbed my face well with a facecloth.

Preparation is key. If it takes some time from shower to shave, make sure a) you've used some hydrating conditioner during the shower, and b) put some oil on when you step out of the shower. This will "seal" in the moisture you put in your beard during the shower. Also, throw a hot wet facecloth on your beard between passes for 15 secs, and use the oil before every pass. This makes a world of difference for me.

There are so many other things -- lather quality, pressure and angle, blade sharpness, etc., etc.

Also, don't push it. If your face is irritated the next day, let the shave go. I skipped about one shave every week early on. I don't have to do that now. I think I could shave twice a day, BBS both times, and not have excessive irritation.

 

[mbrossar]

Thanks all. This is pretty much what I expected but really wanted to confirm. ATG's pretty much required. I couldn't see how you'd get there without it. And it takes practice. Got it.

 

[studman46]

To me, BBS has been the goal of every wetshave and is the enlightenment we all seek. It's the whole purpose of wetshaving and all that it entails, IMHO. The results leave one's face feeling like a million bucks, bring a smile, and set the whole attitude for the day. I find it hard to even understand the concept of DFS; if after all we go through from prep to Aftershave, we're left faceturbating a mug full of stubble, what's the use?...may as well grab some cheap Bic disposables and hack away.

I think BBS is attainable by everyone following certain general concepts:
1. A good prep
2. Properly made lather that cushions and hydrates.
3. The right razor...mild (like techs) for light beards, medium (like SS's) for normal beards, aggressive (like 1920's NEW STANDARD open comb or 39c slant) for heavy beards, for example.
4. Blade that works well for your face and knowing when the shave limit for that blade has been reached.
5. Learning one's beard pattern, facial angles, and best direction(s) of attack.
6. Keeping passes to a minimum, eliminating duplicate passes in same direction. More than 3 passes and you're getting in the 'red' zone; light passes on lower half of neck.

These are concepts that I have followed and have resulted in consistent BBS; I never settle for anything less. Hope this is of some help.

 

[evilmojojo]

I am still a long way off daily BBS in fact I haven't managed to get my neck even close to DFS or CCS. It's getting better though. However I can pretty much do whatever I want on my cheeks day after day because the skin seems much more resilient. I use T&H pre-shave oil but what I have found is right at the end of my shave I can do an Oil Pass by just putting some of the Pre-Shave oil on with water and go ATG while buffing and this produces 99.9% BBS. I shaved at 8pm last night it's now 1.30pm at work and I can only just start to feel the stubble coming through. No cuts very little irritation.

For me its a matter of three things:

........

3. The right method. This really means having the little extra time too shave every section of my beard in the correct direction, and most importantly, tightening my skin in the correct opposing direction. I find that the skin pulling makes the single greatest contribution to a BBS shave.

Brodirt, you mentioned "correct opposing direction" what do you mean by that. Do you mean pulling in the same direction as your shave or at 90degrees? I've found streching just causing irritation, although that could have been the relative direction I was pulling.

 

[Brodirt]

I mean pulling the same direction that I am shaving. For example if my beard growth were straight down and toward my jaw line, when going ATG i would pull my skin upward toward my eye and draw the blade in the same direction. In certain spots I will actually use my left hand to anchor my skin below the blade and stretch above.

 

[Luc]

I can get a BBS in 3 pass using my NEW with Bull Mastiff handle or Hoffritz. A Feather or Astra helps to achieve it. The prep is really important and I think you are doing the right thing at the moment. For each of your pass, if it works, that's good.

My hair are not growing N-S, they are going from NE-SW/NW-SE. I figured out, after a month and finally doing a map of how my facial hair grow, that a N-S pass is useless. It might not be your case. The Open Comb really helps in my case as I know right away if my angle is right or not. If the lather is picked up with teeth marks, it's wrong!

The Slant is another good option. However, you should be able to work it out with your HD.