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Absolute beginner

I have started with Dovo 100, 5/8"

The first shave was bad if compare with my FEATHER AS-D2 SAFETY RAZOR

After a few attempts to strop a razor by Dovo strap, I bought Shapton glass stones1000/3000/8000 and Illinois Razor Strop #127

I have made improvements, but I think the edge is wrong now.

Is it possible to fix the edges or it's too late?

 

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Wow. That looks like a lot of pressure used.

you should be able to get to an edge, but it wont be pretty. are you using the basic bevel testing with sharpies or thumbnail test?

the feather is pretty smooth, that dovo can get get close but probably not with 8000.
 
Oof, really did a number on that straight, didn't you? It's fixable, but it'll take a steady hand. My recommendation si either send it out to someone like Doc to fix it, or write this one off as a learner and keep going - knives need pressure on stones, razors don't - the lighter the better
 
As mentioned by global_dev it seems like you used a lot of pressure. The blade is thin and flexible, thus any form of downward pressure will cause the edge apex to lift up off the stone thereby taking of material behind it. This is why your bevel is uneven and very pronounced.

Shapton cuts very quick so its important to inspect your progress carefully after 20 or so laps to visual confirm what’s happening to the spine and bevel.

To correct the geometry I would breadknife/straighten the edge, check and correct any wobble on the spine and start over using tape until the bevel is set. Its not going to look pretty, but better than you have now. This I recommend you have an experienced honer do for you.

Buy some Gold Dollars or beater vintage blade to learn with. Honing seems easy...

Learn how to do x-strokes and control pressure.
 
Oof, really did a number on that straight, didn't you? It's fixable, but it'll take a steady hand. My recommendation si either send it out to someone like Doc to fix it, or write this one off as a learner and keep going - knives need pressure on stones, razors don't - the lighter the better
Thanks
Wow. That looks like a lot of pressure used.

you should be able to get to an edge, but it wont be pretty. are you using the basic bevel testing with sharpies or thumbnail test?

the feather is pretty smooth, that dovo can get get close but probably not with 8000.
Thanks. I used a thumb to test. Do you know a honemaster?
 
As mentioned by global_dev it seems like you used a lot of pressure. The blade is thin and flexible, thus any form of downward pressure will cause the edge apex to lift up off the stone thereby taking of material behind it. This is why your bevel is uneven and very pronounced.

Shapton cuts very quick so its important to inspect your progress carefully after 20 or so laps to visual confirm what’s happening to the spine and bevel.

To correct the geometry I would breadknife/straighten the edge, check and correct any wobble on the spine and start over using tape until the bevel is set. Its not going to look pretty, but better than you have now. This I recommend you have an experienced honer do for you.

Buy some Gold Dollars or beater vintage blade to learn with. Honing seems easy...

Learn how to do x-strokes and control pressure.
Thanks, this is helpful. I will buy Gold Dollar to learn.

I have new one Dovo Bismarck 2, and I will use for first a few shelving only Illinois 127
 
Not sue why everyone thinks it is a pressure thing. Yes the bevels are larger in areas but tiny in others.
That thing is warped and has the classic signs of a warp.
Not that your honing is ok or not but that thing is warped!
 
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To my mind, that amount of metal moved based on the spine hone wear is a bit indicative of pressure, but you are right about the warpiness conplement.

perhaps its just constant honing that got that there. I am also assuming this was honed with flatness in mind across the edge which usually, not always, implies pressure applied across the blade.
 
To my mind, that amount of metal moved based on the spine hone wear is a bit indicative of pressure, but you are right about the warpiness conplement.

perhaps its just constant honing that got that there. I am also assuming this was honed with flatness in mind across the edge which usually, not always, implies pressure applied across the blade.


You are absolutely right. I didn't see the hone wear - wow.
Heavy pressure and a warp=disaster.
 
You can make it sharp but going to have to live with that pronounced bow in the blade. That is a pretty crappy grind - sorry for you.
 
Another dovo BQ :crying:
These takes some skill to fix, nothing for a beginner to sink their teeth in.
My first razor I bought which was a dovo BQ looks more like a toothpick than a razor now.
 
Another dovo BQ :crying:
These takes some skill to fix, nothing for a beginner to sink their teeth in.
My first razor I bought which was a dovo BQ looks more like a toothpick than a razor now.
How did the one you were working with recently come out?
Didn’t it start off as a pretty good challenge too?
 
How did the one you were working with recently come out?
Didn’t it start off as a pretty good challenge too?
It was a challenge indeed, but it shaves wonderfully now, had to back down to my 4k to get the bevel spot on, then on to a slurried jnat. Steel is on the softer side which I'm not really used to, but a light steady hand did the trick.
But i can see how the softness of the steel plus the geometry issues will turn into a nightmare for someone with no experience.
 
Also, what will be good Flattening Stone for Shapton Stone Glass? I would like to avoid SHARPTON GLASS DIAMOND LAPPING PLATE, too expensive
 
my opinion:

Look for some cheap auction vintage razors. With a little detective work you can usually find American or German razors that were never honed. The steel will be top notch and take and hold truly shave ready edges. Not saying they will look as new, just never honed. Pay no more than 20 bucks!

Get a Shapton 1.5k (not glass) to set bevels. The Atoma 400 is a great piece too ($$$) and you can even hone on that for major work. Consider a 5k stone and an 8k or 10k. Great reviews on youtube by razor guys ie "tomonagura". After an 8k or 10k you will have a really nice edge if you are painstaking about this phase of your development.

Can end there or, more likely, go up to a any variety of finishers, cheapest/easiest being strop/balsa loaded with abrasive, or lapping film.
 
I also observe a little of the concave shape (not as pronounced as in the photo), on the edge of some of my razors. What actually makes the wire concave? Excess pressure? Use a stone to define the bevel that does not cover the entire length of the blade and use a pattern x stroke? I think that when sharpening with the X stroke pattern, the central part of the blade tends to stay longer on the stone than the ends so that it wears out faster and creates the concave shape? What do you think?
 
Thnaks Cugel.

I will try to hone my Dovo. I have 1000/3000/8000 and I will buy 16000

Could you tell me what will be the best place to find old razor? I didn't find anything similar eBay
 
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