What's new

A tale of shaves

Homelike Taiga

6 days growth.
Feather (1).
One pass WTG.

In order not to jinx my streak of great shaves I decided to not mess with a winning formula. As such, it was the Taiga and Feather again.

After the last shave I remarked how incredibly close the shave was at setting 2.5, even WTG. Only after a couple of days did I realize that that higher setting had shaved off (literally) almost an additional 1 days worth of growth. It was that close. Because of this I made only a small change today: 2.25 for my problem areas, 2.5 for the rest, though last week's plan was to go up to 2.75 today.

Once again the Taiga + Feather provided an awesome, incredibly close shave. It is remarkably close. I can't even fathom how some people manage to do 3 pass shaves with this razor, and all at settings >= 3 (or at any setting for that matter). I'm am 100% confident in saying that absolutely no one using this razor will complain about efficiency. Simply can't happen.

Right now I have a hard time imagining ever using it above setting 3. It's that efficient, at least with the Feather. To use it at >3 my skin and stubble would need to adapt in a significant way to the increased efficiency. If anything I might reduce the setting to 2.25 next time.

This really is an extraordinary razor. If I had to say something negative about it would be: 1) slightly too slim handle, with less than ideal knurling 2) it can feel a little top heavy when you turn it 90 degrees. I mention this only to not give the illusion that I think it is perfect.

Right now it's hard to imagine that anything can top this combo when I finally decide to try a new razor and/or blade. I eventually will of course, as I have new razors incoming, but I wouldn't dare to bet on the verdict, no matter what my expectations are for the new gear.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
It’s getting to be day seven. Hoping all is well and your Homelike Shaving Taiga is treating you kindly.
 
Razorock Mamba 70


20220223_105144.jpg



7 days growth.
Feather (2).
One pass WTG.

The plan was to use the Taiga for now, but the previous two shaves with the Taiga were so close that I took a whole week off. It almost felt like I overshaved the last time, even with that single WTG pass. It was that efficient. So today I decided to use a milder razor. I returned to the Mamba 70. I have only used it once since I bought it a few months ago (that alone would be reason enough to use it again!). The first time around I used an Astra SP but wasn't very impressed by the shave overall. I wasn't able to shave my problem area due to the excessive tugging, and had to resort to the Twig.

To make an apples to apples comparison with the Taiga I loaded it with a Feather blade.

From the very first stroke it felt milder than the Taiga. It also feels much more like a "cutter" (akin the BBS), and less of a "scraper". It doesn't have a very wide range of effective angle. This is a razor that has to be used with the steepest possible angle in order for it to be efficient. In other words you have to ride the guard. When you find the correct angle it shaves wonderfully. Even so, I was doing a little more micro strokes than I prefer, and certainly more than with the Taiga even at setting 2.

With the Astra SP blade I wasn't able to shave my problem area, but with a Feather it was no problem at all. In fact it was the best shave I've had so far of my problem area. For the first time I can almost say it wasn't painful experience. I'm not sure to what extent that's due to the razor, or if it's simply that my problem area has "toughened up" with the Taiga and isn't as hypersensitive anymore, but it definitely felt a little better than the Taiga so far. That really surprised me.

It was a very pleasant shave, way above average, with very little in common with the first shave a few months back. I should have tried it again much sooner. It wasn't nearly as close as the Taiga, even on the lower settings, but I expected as much from the start. On the flip side the face definitely feels calmer than the previous two shaves at settings 2.5 with the Taiga, so this was a nice break. Before today I thought I'd end up selling the Mamba 70, but I think it's a keeper now. Have to compare with the BBS. It's great razor for sure, I can't imagine anyone finding it too aggressive. I wouldn't want to go milder than this though.

It also confirmed what I wrote about the top-heaviness of the Taiga: the Mamba on the HD handle feels perfectly balanced, something I hadn't thought about until using the Taiga.

I'd definitely use it again for the next shave! But then there's the Lupo... which finally arrived. Being blade positive and much more aggressive than any of my current razors, next shave will be an interesting one for sure!
 
It’s getting to be day seven. Hoping all is well and your Homelike Shaving Taiga is treating you kindly.
The original plan was 6 days but I underestimated Taiga's efficiency, so I had to take an extra day off; turns out I jinxed myself with the Taiga! :)

I'm even more in awe now of the people that can do 3 pass shaves with the Taiga, multiple times a week. Seems unreal!
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Thank you for the review of the 0.70mm Mamba. If you’ll forgive me for suggesting an additional monetary expense, please use a new Feather blade for your next shave (Taiga, Mamba 70, Lupo 72, BBS…).

Before temporarily setting the Mamba 0.53 aside, I noticed; like you; that placing a Mamba’s safety bar on the skin and finding blade contact was more successful than placing the cap on the skin and tilting from there.

@Rosseforp showed me an image from a Gillette Tech’s instructions which suggested just what you did this shave and I did a few weeks ago. Obviously, my first thought is the Gillette Tech and its instructions were from a gloomy, dystopian Hellscape where Gillette was bought out, King C. Gillette reduced to a toothless figurehead, and every safety razor inferior to the so-called Old Type was released. Even still, it works! And it works for the Mamba with either the chasmic 0.53 gap or the nigh-infinite 0.70 gap you just braved, so there’s that.

Is it possible for you to enjoy more frequent shaves and shaves with more passes? Would the right soap or cream or brush or diet help? Some people have found success with chelated magnesium and zinc supplements. Others from applying moisturizer with SPF 30-100 on a daily basis. Others still from abandoning safety razors for straight razors, barber razors (straight razor with a replaceable blade), or going back to cartridge razors. Others still from perfecting their technique with a single razor and blade and others from using all the razors.

And then there’s John. If you read the journal of @JoWolf , you’ll see he shaves once a week with one pass most times and two in very dry, cold weeks, and his skin has never been better.

My stubble tries killing me after three days and looks horrid after two (the salt and pepper neck beard is soul-crushing), and I’m determined to shave in my own, particular idiom even if the internet proper way would’ve worked better for my face.

Even if your username makes me wonder if you knew the late Mike Mentzer, I’m confident you’ll achieve your shave Nirvana.
 
Thank you for the review of the 0.70mm Mamba. If you’ll forgive me for suggesting an additional monetary expense, please use a new Feather blade for your next shave (Taiga, Mamba 70, Lupo 72, BBS…).
Don't think I "dare" use a Feather for the first shave. I was thinking something more pedestrian like a Gillette Platinum or GSB. But it will be brand new for sure!

Before temporarily setting the Mamba 0.53 aside, I noticed; like you; that placing a Mamba’s safety bar on the skin and finding blade contact was more successful than placing the cap on the skin and tilting from there.
Yeah, it's definitely the way to go with the Mambas!

Is it possible for you to enjoy more frequent shaves and shaves with more passes? Would the right soap or cream or brush or diet help? Some people have found success with chelated magnesium and zinc supplements. Others from applying moisturizer with SPF 30-100 on a daily basis. Others still from abandoning safety razors for straight razors, barber razors (straight razor with a replaceable blade), or going back to cartridge razors. Others still from perfecting their technique with a single razor and blade and others from using all the razors.
More passes: I don't think that realistic with noticeable irritation tbh. Also, I have never chased the BBS, so I'm fine with a single pass. The Taiga at 2.5 proved that I can get a very close shave even with the grain, but at the expense of frequency.
Increased frequency: I can definitely reduce to 5. 4 is possible. 3 a big maybe, only with consistently mild shaves and no surprises.
As soon as I settle on a razor + blade 5 days will definitely happen.

I started rinsing the razor with cold water between strokes a few months ago. At first the cold steel felt odd, but it was soothing at the same time, like when you want to put ice on skin that feels irritated or has a burning sensation. Now it feels right.

My stubble tries killing me after three days and looks horrid after two (the salt and pepper neck beard is soul-crushing), and I’m determined to shave in my own, particular idiom even if the internet proper way would’ve worked better for my face.
Whatever works for you!
I started paying attention to the growth direction at all times, and it definitely made a difference.

Even if your username makes me wonder if you knew the late Mike Mentzer, I’m confident you’ll achieve your shave Nirvana.
You are the first one to figure out the connection, very well done sir!! :thumbup:
I didn't have the fortune of meeting or speaking with him, but I purchased his books in the 90's (before the web was a thing and you had to send bank checks) and used his principles with great success, though not as brief nor infrequent as he recommended. I then switched to Dorian's implementation of HIT when he published Blood and Guts, which was closer to my style of training anyway.
Different times, another life... But what a good time it was! :)

How come you're familiar with Heavy Duty?
 
Thank you for the review of the 0.70mm Mamba. If you’ll forgive me for suggesting an additional monetary expense, please use a new Feather blade for your next shave (Taiga, Mamba 70, Lupo 72, BBS…).

Before temporarily setting the Mamba 0.53 aside, I noticed; like you; that placing a Mamba’s safety bar on the skin and finding blade contact was more successful than placing the cap on the skin and tilting from there.

@Rosseforp showed me an image from a Gillette Tech’s instructions which suggested just what you did this shave and I did a few weeks ago. Obviously, my first thought is the Gillette Tech and its instructions were from a gloomy, dystopian Hellscape where Gillette was bought out, King C. Gillette reduced to a toothless figurehead, and every safety razor inferior to the so-called Old Type was released. Even still, it works! And it works for the Mamba with either the chasmic 0.53 gap or the nigh-infinite 0.70 gap you just braved, so there’s that.

Is it possible for you to enjoy more frequent shaves and shaves with more passes? Would the right soap or cream or brush or diet help? Some people have found success with chelated magnesium and zinc supplements. Others from applying moisturizer with SPF 30-100 on a daily basis. Others still from abandoning safety razors for straight razors, barber razors (straight razor with a replaceable blade), or going back to cartridge razors. Others still from perfecting their technique with a single razor and blade and others from using all the razors.

And then there’s John. If you read the journal of @JoWolf , you’ll see he shaves once a week with one pass most times and two in very dry, cold weeks, and his skin has never been better.
I am leaning towards a two pass for face Thom. I eliminated the first pass buffing and went to a second pass with very minimal buffing. The shave is extremely close. Albeit stroke count has increased but offset with increased comfort for a seven day. My six day growth today is closer to my recent five day growths.

I came to B&B primarily for an improvement in shave irritation and skin damage due to shaving. I think my progress would have been quicker if I had concentrated on skin health more than shaving. Bottom line both had to be done for best technique. More skin health first would have shortened my journey.

Shave technique and shave improvements will always be on the table and slight changes and improvements continue. All of this is very new to me. I have designed my shave. Buried in a cocoon of pre and post shave routines that support elevated shaves in comfort and closeness. The seven day was the largest gain for fewest strokes. I continue to refine technique and changes in the shave from various water temps within the shave to flattening improvements. I have accepted that I have most certainly crossed a shave line. It is a different mind space. My shaves are “OCD Enhanced”.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
More passes: I don't think that realistic with noticeable irritation tbh.

As soon as I settle on a razor + blade 5 days will definitely happen.

That’s in your hands. Too many razors out there are too cool, though.

I started paying attention to the growth direction at all times, and it definitely made a difference.

I try following closely as possible, too, but any tilt of the head changes it’s direction from lower lip to back of neck.

How come you're familiar with Heavy Duty?

I like being stronger than I used to be.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
I think my progress would have been quicker if I had concentrated on skin health more than shaving.

That’s an important tip shared by @bosseb as well. While we’re all cuckoo for hyaluronic, some folks have benefited for daily sunscreen in their regimen.
 
Razorock Lupo 72

lupo_72.jpg


6 days growth.
Gillette Platinum (1).
One pass WTG.

The Lupo is significantly more aggressive than my other razors. Even if I can make the Taiga more efficient at higher settings it's not as blade forward as the Lupo on most settings. Given that I basically overshaved with the Taiga at setting 2.5, and I generally like milder razors, the Lupo is uncharted territory for me.

I originally said I'd use the Gillette Platinum, but up until the very last minute I was leaning towards going with a Feather instead, mainly because my problem area benefits the most from a sharp blade, while the rest of my face can handle a less sharp blades more or less fine. In the end I went with the Platinum because I wanted to maximize comfort for this first shave, and I did manage to shave my problem area even with an Astra SS in the BBS and Taiga (though with less comfort than the Feather). Add to this that the plan was to go steep (i.e. ride the safety bar), as opposed to neutral which I normal do, I didn't want to push it too far with a Feather. For that reason I also prepared the Mamba 70, in case I had to abort with the Lupo.

I did the first strokes on the neck under my chin. It's the only part of my face that isn't sensitive so I always start there with new razors, to get a feel for them. The positive blade exposure was noticeable from the very first stroke. It was also clear that the razor is a "scraper" - and even more so with the steep angle. The excellent blade clamping was also apparent right from the start. After those first few strokes I doubted that I would be able to complete the shave with the Lupo, thinking that I might have to resort to the Mamba. But when I moved up to the face it felt very smooth, and so easy to find the correct angle - that blade feel really guides you. It felt so good that I regretted not having loaded it with a Feather instead. The increased efficiency also became very apparent, I was definitely doing less micro strokes than with the Mamba, and leaving less stubble behind. When I reached my problem area I wasn't sure what to expect - between the blade exposure, "scraping", and the less sharper [than Feather] Gillette, I was skeptical. Turned out to be even better than the Mamba, despite being a "scraper". No issue whatsoever. It was also easier than the Taiga, which I attribute to the lower blade gap, and that was also the reason I shaved my problem area at lower settings - the Lupo confirmed that less blade gap works better for me there.

When I finished the face felt very nice, though for the following 60-90 minutes I could feel that I had just shaved. There was no irritation or discomfort of any kind, simply that sensation which isn't present with something mild like the Mamba.

I can definitely see the allure in this kind of razor. The blade feel is very satisfying, it really lets you know what you're doing. It's a more visceral shave than with milder/tamer razors. I can also understand why some would prefer it over something smoother like the Taiga, not because of the end result - the Taiga can shave much closer if you crank it up! - but because how you arrive at that result.

I also very much enjoyed the steep angle, it felt absolutely right with the Lupo and I wouldn't change anything.

Overall it was a great shave, as good as I had hoped for in the best case scenario. The blade feel was at no point overwhelming. After I purchased it I kind of regretted not having gone for the Lupo 95 instead, but after this shave I'm glad I didn't. The shave was very close, akin to the Taiga at setting 2.5 which I used for my previous two shaves. And therein lies the potential rub: with this level of efficiency I overshaved on the 2nd shave with Taiga, and had to dial it back to the Mamba. If that is anything to go by there is a real chance I won't be able to use the Lupo regularly. I think the face feels a bit better than with Taiga though, but I won't know for sure until tomorrow or next day. What might make a difference here is that the Taiga and Lupo have fundamentally different approaches for achieving that efficiency: the Taiga with a virtually neutral blade exposure but a much higher blade gap (1.10 mm at setting 2.5), while the Taiga is blade positive but a much smaller blade gap of 0.72 mm, which is even less than the Taiga at setting 1 (0.80 mm).

If I would be able to use the Lupo regularly (and that's a big if right now), I might enjoy the Lupo the most as my single razor, because of that satisfying blade feel and closeness. But at this point it's all speculation.
 
Razorock Mamba 70

7 days growth.
Feather (1).
One pass WTG.

As I suspected, the last shave with the Lupo 72 proved to be a bit too close for comfort: I had the similar feeling of some over-shaving that I had after the 2nd shave with the Taiga at 2.5. I don't think I'd be able to use the Lupo regularly for this reason, as much as I'd like to. So I reached for the Mamba again this time, and took another day off.

The Mamba proved very smooth again, absolutely nothing menacing about it. Once again I went as steep as possible, and was rewarded with a very nice shave. I feel I could easily shave every 4 days with the Mamba, maybe even 3 days (same is true for the Taiga at lower settings). Still wish for a bit more efficiency though.

Returning to the Lupo, I really enjoyed the shave itself, both the steep angle and the blade feel. But 3-4 days later I still had a distinct feeling of having shaved, which is a sign that a razor/shave is too aggressive for me, even if I enjoy the shave itself, so I knew I wouldn't be able to use it again for the next shave. I was thinking to myself that I wish RR had something like the 72 but milder, though I wasn't sure how I'd make it milder: with less exposure and/or an even smaller gap. I even checked their chart to see if I could spot a model that might fit. As luck would have it, my wish came through with the release of the new SS Lupo 58 only a couple of days later :) I immediately placed an order, and it's currently en route.

For the next shave I will revisit the BBS with a Feather. The last time I used the BBS it was a disaster due to the dull blade, so it deserves another chance. I never used it with a Feather, that in itself makes it an interesting shave, and double so for an apples-to-apples comparison with the Mamba.
 
Razorock BBS

6 days growth.
Feather (2).
One pass WTG.

The two and only previous shaves with the BBS were polar opposites. So this is best of three. Head or tails...

It took a few strokes to find the correct angle (going as steep as possible). When I found it it felt more efficient than the Mamba 70, as if it were "digging" deeper, but it never felt massively more efficient. Even so, I was still doing more micro strokes than I expected, even more than with the Mamba on some parts I think, probably due to losing the angle. Also, I wasn't very impressed by how it handled my problem area, it was less comfortable than the previous two shaves with the Mamba. But I used less pressure with the BBS because of the increased efficiency. Still, I felt I was frequently hunting for the correct angle throughout the shave. I don't recall having that issue during my previous two shaves.

I would describe the shave itself as merely decent, with the result being good. But overall I wasn't as impressed as with the Mamba on the 2nd and 3rd shave. If I had to pick between the Mamba and BBS - and I might at some point - I would stick with the Mamba right now. Again, the end result with the BBS was a bit closer, but I enjoyed the shave with the Mamba more. That's not to say I wouldn't be fine having to use the BBS as my only razor, but I don't think it would be my first pick at this very moment. That would be either the Taiga or Lupo 72 (I think, despite the Lupo being a bit too much for me - have to try it again!).

What's completely certain though is that that awful 2nd shave was not representative of the BBS in any way, that falls squarely on the dull blade.

As for the next shave, the razor is undecided...
 
Blackland Era, level 3 SB

6 days growth.
Feather (1).
One pass WTG.

The moment I read that the Blackland Era was designed with the explicit goal of making the best clamped blade that's physically possible I knew I was going to get it. Thus I ordered the Era within minutes of it finally being launched back in Jan.

The blade is clamped extremely close to the edge, both and equally top and bottom. It's noticeable on inspection. I was very curious to see how that design transfers to the shave experience.

I tried going steep from the start for the first couple of minutes but noticed that it wasn't shaving a whole lot. I then switched to a neutral angle, and that changed everything: the level 3 plate should/can be used only with a neutral angle. Anything else and it almost doesn't shave. I think the range of usable angle is quite narrow. Even with the correct neutral angle I had to apply some pressure. There is no blade feel at all, the exposure is likely neutral.

The shave itself was a bit above average as far as smoothness. I suspect another blade can make it smoother, but would have to try. Maybe it feels a bit draggy (maybe!), but I have made that claim before only to retract it later, so I won't make that definitive call just yet. Or maybe it's the neutral angle + pressure that gives that impression... Efficiency wise I would rate it around Mamba 70, likely closer to the 53. I think the Era requires much less micro strokes though than the 53 (if I remember correctly) once you dial in that neutral angle. Maybe less than the 70 too. The clamping is definitely noticeable and makes for a very safe shave, never felt anywhere near of nicking myself, even while applying pressure. First impression wasn't that this is an extremely smooth razor. That's not to say that the Era is rough in any way, because it isn't, at all. But it didn't give that wow-impression of smoothness that the Taiga + Feather provides. Again not sure if it's the material, finishing and/or blade.

Overall it was an OK shave, the face felt great afterwards: the result and post-shave feel was better than the shave itself would lead one to believe.
The level 3 plate is probably a great daily shaver for many people and new DE shavers. I wish for a bit more efficiency though. I suspect that the level 4 plate will be more to my liking. That will be the next shave.
 
Blackland Era, level 4 SB

5 days growth.
Feather (1).
One pass WTG.

Last shave with plate 3 was very mild but showed potential, thus I looked forward to plate 4.

I went neutral from the start this time, and from the first stroke it was clear it is more efficient. Plate 4 has a slight positive blade exposure for sure. It has just enough blade feel to let you know what you are doing, but never unpleasant in the least. Even so it definitely has more blade feel than the Taiga. A few more strokes in and I immediately took a like to it. It felt smoother than plate 3 because of the reduced pressure applied I think. In a way the awesome clamping is more evident in this plate because of the increased blade feel.

Efficiency wise plate 4 sits a bit above the BBS, or around the 2 - 2.25 setting on the Taiga. But the Era feels safer than the BBS despite having more blade feel, I attribute that to the small blade protrusion combined with the clamping. The Feather never felt menacing, the blade was in full control at all times, I'm sure the exceptional clamping makes a difference here.

For the very first time I shaved my problem area without any discomfort whatsoever. As mentioned before, I'm not sure to what extent it's the razor or that the area has toughened up. Further shaves will tell. Either way it's a milestone.

I was less than half way through the shave when I reached the conclusion: the plate 4 Era had leap frogged all my other non-adjustable razors. Better than the Lupo 72? I've only shaved once with each so hard to tell. But it's less aggressive for sure due to less blade exposure and feel. Either way it's kind of moot as I can't use the 72 regularly (right now at least). The Era I could use every shave. Its direct competitor is probably the Lupo 58. Remains to be seen which one will come out on top.

I would pay good money for a top notch fit-and-finish, polished CNC razor that shaves exactly like (or better than) the Era. This is this only area where it lacks a bit. Alas, this particular design presumably can't be produced by traditional machines.

Still, the shave was a delight. This razor is a winner! 5/5 for shave and end result.
Mission accomplished @Blackland Razors
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
@hduty , even though I’m glad you’ve found the Blackland Era Level 4 SB razor and I hope further shaves with it bring you grooming goodness and end the acquisition phase of your journey, it just dawned on me that the Yates razor might have some appeal (though the Era has much more rigidity, so no, but yes).
 
I assume you are referring to the 921, not the Merica?
I have looked at it on a few occasions but never found any rave reviews of it like some other razors seem to get, so I never considered it seriously. No negative reviews either mind you, but nothing like reviews e.g. the Overlander or Blackbird get.

What's its salient feature(s), or why do you think I may like it?

Either way thanks for providing a reason to buy new gear :biggrin1:
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Yates/Dorian Yates. No actual virtue or vice. I’ve read good reports from @gdawg55 and @Sinnbad11 , but have never used one myself. The 921-EH appeals to me just because.

If your existing toys weren’t doing the trick, I would’ve suggested a barber razor or straight razor as the next step. As someone unable to make the jump from sharpening kitchen cutlery to razors, I prefer the barber razor approach, but also haven’t used one more than 3-4 times
 
Top Bottom