This is my first attempt to make a shaving brush, or rather two. I had a seasoned olive branch, just barely the size I needed. I don't own a lathe so I carved the handles with knives, pierced them with Forstner tips and burned them with a pyrograph. the knots are 24mm silvertip from two different suppliers. Of course I have already tested them and I am quite satisfied with them.
A pair of shaving brushes
- Thread starter RobertoZen
- Start date
I like the primitive look!
Very nice.
Very nice.
Good effort, nice brushes 
Well done, I like them.
Roberto, I like the pockmarked effect on the one on the left. Would be nice to see that in a brush that had a little more curve to it.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks to all
@SliceOfLife: I still have a 30mm knot and a piece of camellia wood of the right size, I will probably follow your advice
@SliceOfLife: I still have a 30mm knot and a piece of camellia wood of the right size, I will probably follow your advice
Chandu
I Waxed The Badger.
Very nice.
Outstanding! I particularly like the one on the left. Not your first carving attempt, just your first brushes, obviously.
Very nice, I too like the left one with the pyrography.
Chandu
I Waxed The Badger.
@RobertoZen What did you use for a finish?
- Thread starter
- #11
I was worried about the humidity so I used acrylic paint, satin on the left and glossy on the right, but for the next brush I will try only with linseed oil
You have inspired me to be on the lookout for suitable "kindling" to take a knife to. Absolutely wonderful my friend!
Chandu
I Waxed The Badger.
I would not do that for a shave brush. Too much moisture. Linseed is prone to growing mildew in a moist environment.
The only pure oil finish I'd use for something that will get wet is Tung oil - real 100% tung oil, if it doesn't say that on the can or bottle, it isn't. Most are "tung oil finish" (formby's et al) which is a fancy way of saying varnish made with some tung oil and thinned with mineral spirits so you can wipe it on. Downside to real tung oil, it takes a long time to dry and many coats. Three or four days drying between coats in non humid summer conditions. If you live where it's humid (dew point above 60, it's going to take longer. For a really nice job, allow a month or more. Yup, real oil finishes are nice, but in practical terms it's easy to see why furniture makers use spray lacquer with a catalyst.
If I may make a suggestion. Get some Birchwood Casey Tru Oil. It's easy to get a nice finish with. It's a wiping varnish, but thicker than most, made to apply like a traditional oil finish. Wipe on a very thin coat, work it into the wood until the surface starts to get slightly sticky, let dry. Repeat 3 or 4 times. If you get any surface imperfections hit it with 000 steel wool to smooth out and then another coat of Tru-oil. Tru-oil is was originally targeted toward gunsmiths for stock finishing, but a lot of guitar builders use it too.
Just some suggestions. They are worth what they cost
Great looking!! Congrats!! 
- Thread starter
- #15
@Chandu thanks for the info, I'll do research on those products
bravo!
Very nice brushes.
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