Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!
I have just over a solid year of wet shaving in the bank (not missing a day) and I got the idea to review each of the 9 razors in my collection. My collection covers many of the razors Ive read about on this site. Ive been working on this for the past 3 weeks and my wife thinks Im nuts. She doesnt realize the importance of having this information there for posterity (plus Im trying to justify the money Ive spent over the past year).
Each razor got two chances using Razo Rock Metolipto in a hot scuttle, a $5 Burma brush, and a new Feather blade. The results were very surprising and I often had to remind myself to be objective on the scoring. My loose scoring system was probably 50% closeness and quality, 25% ease of operation, and 25% nostalgia and appearance (subjective). For what its worth, heres what I came up with. The rank list is at the end.
Let me start by saying my favorite razors did not win and the one I expected to bomb came in first. Overall, this exercise was enlightening and a blast. Im curious to see how the veterans respond to my results.
1962 Gillette Slim: I was disappointed with this razor probably because I expected it to be similar to the Fat Boy. It did give me a three pass smooth shave, but I found myself cranking up the dial mid-shave to get a closer shave. It is much less aggressive than Fat Boy; A seven on the Slim is about a four on the FB. The handle is slim, nicely knurled and lighter in weight. I found the shave to be average . The razor is easy to navigate in tight spots, but I much prefer a thicker and heavier handle. I gave it a second shave with similar results; Not overly impressed. Overall grade: C
1958 Gillette Fat Boy: Very smooth close shave; reliable with proven dependability; heavier and shorter handle with great control; well balanced; beautiful knurling. Adjustments are very noticeable when changing to higher levels. I set it at 5 for this review and didnt move it. The heavier handle makes a big difference. Three passes got me cleaned up nicely with no nicks. Indestructible, rich history and very well made. A must own razor for all. This was a very difficult razor to grade because it is my favorite but I needed to score based on its performance. The only reason I scored it lower than the German razors is because it didnt get the areas under my neck as smooth. Overall grade: B+
1958 Gillette Toggle: A unique shave and design that everyone will enjoy and needs to own. The toggle was a great design and I would rate this razor as slightly more aggressive than a Fat Boy (possible due to the weight). It has a weighty, well-balanced handle that has a great feel and drives through those heavy beard days. The razor has a unique history, feel, and look. The knurling provides an incredible grip. I set the razor at 5 to be consistent with my Fat Boy review. A three-pass shave got me to Nirvana and the area under my neck was smoother than the Fatboy. A true collectable and a joy to use. Very pricey these days! Overall grade: A-
1955 Gillette Red Tip: I was very excited to get this razor because I love its look (and I got a mint one for only $15). Performance wise, I was not disappointed. It does a fine job with one pass and had me cleaned up in 2. The handle is not only knurled beautifully, it has a great grip and weighty feel. It had a great sound when shaving and the head was exceptionally smooth. I decided to give it a second shave to make sure I didnt over-rate it. However, my opinion remains the same. This razor is a keeper! I think this razor is an incredible add to any collection and is still cheap to buy. Its a great shave and remains in my weekly rotation. Overall grade: A-
Hoffritz Slant: Wow! Nice weighted handle, unique look, very classy; (I cant tell what year mine is). I got a very close and smooth shave in 1 pass! Need to be a bit careful but not a concern. Distinctive sound as the razor plows through the beard. Super smooth after first pass; one of the best shavers I have. Its built solid, has a unique off-colored nickel-like finish, nice knurling, and is heavy in hand. The neck area was the smoothest Ive ever had with minimal effort kinda like a straight edge! I think I want another one! However, the design does make you check to see if the blade is on evenly. Overall grade: A
Merkur Vision 2000: This futuristic razor is beautiful to look at and comes with a hefty price tag of $140 (although have you seen what Fat Boys are going for on the Bay shocking!). Some think its too large and cumbersome resembling a medieval torture device. However once you get used to it, it provides one of the closest shaves available. I will say that it is very heavy and dwarfs any razor. If you drop this baby on a granite counter, you can expect a chip in the granite. If you are the guy who needs to have the big boat, fancy car and large caliber gun, this one is for you! I found it to be perfect. I gave it two shaves for this critique: the first with the head set at a low, non-aggressive setting and the second set aggressive. The settings are a pain to get used to because unlike a Gillette adjustable that has a nice click locking in at each numeral, the Vision is just a rotating dial and the letters dont correlate to a specific setting. I found the easiest way to adjust was to start at the full aggressive setting and then rotate it back the equivalent of two letters. With that said, this razor is capable of providing you with a mild shave for those with sensitive skin up to a weed-whacking machete-like cutting that can be equally smooth when used with caution; A very versatile and well-engineered piece. I did not have problems navigating around my goatee or tight areas. Im hearing these are getting discontinued. Thus, I would recommend you have one in your collection. Overall Grade: A
Stahly Live Blade then Stahly Head on a Mercur 18 Handle: I started with the vibrating motion using the razor in its original capacity. Mine only vibrates for about 20 seconds and I wont crank it too much because of its age and fear of over-winding. Although Ive read positive reviews about the vibration shave, I found it annoying and gimmicky. I then switched handles to a Mercur 18 and discovered a very surprising combination. This provides an incredibly smooth and fairly close shave. Great combination for sensitive skin (although I did get a couple minor weepers). IMO, the Stahly head does better on typical handle versus their own vibrating, bulky, stubby handle. Overall grade C+
Gillette Aristocrat British 66: This is one of those razors I had to own and overpay for. I think it is one of the best looking razors out there with its rhodium finish and bulldog knurling. I didnt know what to expect and figured a typical Gillette-like shave. I was wrong; this razor shaved wonderful and had great sound as I made my passes. I tried a second time just to make sure my mind was trying to justify the ridiculous price I paid for it. But I had the same results. The neck area was smooth as silk after the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] pass and the entire shave was a pleasure. Overall Grade: A
1938ish Gillette Senator Open Comb: I was really curious about this razor and didnt realize it is a bit hard to find these days. I really enjoyed the open comb and found the razor to give a very smooth shave. The handle is a bit slim and I thought the knurling was a little slippery. The shave took the typical three passes and got fairly close. I think there are better razors out there, but have no complaints with the shave. Personally, I found the handle to be too slim for my liking and would stick to a Fat Boy over this one. I liked it better than the Slim so I give it an overall grade of B-
And the results are wow, this was not what I expected (this is going to open a can of worms!)
1[SUP]st[/SUP] Place: Hoffritz Slant
2[SUP]nd[/SUP] Place: Vision 2000
3[SUP]rd[/SUP] Place: Gillette English Aristocrat Model 66
4[SUP]th[/SUP] Place: Gillette Toggle
5[SUP]th[/SUP] Place: Gillette Red Tip
Runner Up: Gillette Fat Boy
I have just over a solid year of wet shaving in the bank (not missing a day) and I got the idea to review each of the 9 razors in my collection. My collection covers many of the razors Ive read about on this site. Ive been working on this for the past 3 weeks and my wife thinks Im nuts. She doesnt realize the importance of having this information there for posterity (plus Im trying to justify the money Ive spent over the past year).
Each razor got two chances using Razo Rock Metolipto in a hot scuttle, a $5 Burma brush, and a new Feather blade. The results were very surprising and I often had to remind myself to be objective on the scoring. My loose scoring system was probably 50% closeness and quality, 25% ease of operation, and 25% nostalgia and appearance (subjective). For what its worth, heres what I came up with. The rank list is at the end.
Let me start by saying my favorite razors did not win and the one I expected to bomb came in first. Overall, this exercise was enlightening and a blast. Im curious to see how the veterans respond to my results.
1962 Gillette Slim: I was disappointed with this razor probably because I expected it to be similar to the Fat Boy. It did give me a three pass smooth shave, but I found myself cranking up the dial mid-shave to get a closer shave. It is much less aggressive than Fat Boy; A seven on the Slim is about a four on the FB. The handle is slim, nicely knurled and lighter in weight. I found the shave to be average . The razor is easy to navigate in tight spots, but I much prefer a thicker and heavier handle. I gave it a second shave with similar results; Not overly impressed. Overall grade: C
1958 Gillette Fat Boy: Very smooth close shave; reliable with proven dependability; heavier and shorter handle with great control; well balanced; beautiful knurling. Adjustments are very noticeable when changing to higher levels. I set it at 5 for this review and didnt move it. The heavier handle makes a big difference. Three passes got me cleaned up nicely with no nicks. Indestructible, rich history and very well made. A must own razor for all. This was a very difficult razor to grade because it is my favorite but I needed to score based on its performance. The only reason I scored it lower than the German razors is because it didnt get the areas under my neck as smooth. Overall grade: B+
1958 Gillette Toggle: A unique shave and design that everyone will enjoy and needs to own. The toggle was a great design and I would rate this razor as slightly more aggressive than a Fat Boy (possible due to the weight). It has a weighty, well-balanced handle that has a great feel and drives through those heavy beard days. The razor has a unique history, feel, and look. The knurling provides an incredible grip. I set the razor at 5 to be consistent with my Fat Boy review. A three-pass shave got me to Nirvana and the area under my neck was smoother than the Fatboy. A true collectable and a joy to use. Very pricey these days! Overall grade: A-
1955 Gillette Red Tip: I was very excited to get this razor because I love its look (and I got a mint one for only $15). Performance wise, I was not disappointed. It does a fine job with one pass and had me cleaned up in 2. The handle is not only knurled beautifully, it has a great grip and weighty feel. It had a great sound when shaving and the head was exceptionally smooth. I decided to give it a second shave to make sure I didnt over-rate it. However, my opinion remains the same. This razor is a keeper! I think this razor is an incredible add to any collection and is still cheap to buy. Its a great shave and remains in my weekly rotation. Overall grade: A-
Hoffritz Slant: Wow! Nice weighted handle, unique look, very classy; (I cant tell what year mine is). I got a very close and smooth shave in 1 pass! Need to be a bit careful but not a concern. Distinctive sound as the razor plows through the beard. Super smooth after first pass; one of the best shavers I have. Its built solid, has a unique off-colored nickel-like finish, nice knurling, and is heavy in hand. The neck area was the smoothest Ive ever had with minimal effort kinda like a straight edge! I think I want another one! However, the design does make you check to see if the blade is on evenly. Overall grade: A
Merkur Vision 2000: This futuristic razor is beautiful to look at and comes with a hefty price tag of $140 (although have you seen what Fat Boys are going for on the Bay shocking!). Some think its too large and cumbersome resembling a medieval torture device. However once you get used to it, it provides one of the closest shaves available. I will say that it is very heavy and dwarfs any razor. If you drop this baby on a granite counter, you can expect a chip in the granite. If you are the guy who needs to have the big boat, fancy car and large caliber gun, this one is for you! I found it to be perfect. I gave it two shaves for this critique: the first with the head set at a low, non-aggressive setting and the second set aggressive. The settings are a pain to get used to because unlike a Gillette adjustable that has a nice click locking in at each numeral, the Vision is just a rotating dial and the letters dont correlate to a specific setting. I found the easiest way to adjust was to start at the full aggressive setting and then rotate it back the equivalent of two letters. With that said, this razor is capable of providing you with a mild shave for those with sensitive skin up to a weed-whacking machete-like cutting that can be equally smooth when used with caution; A very versatile and well-engineered piece. I did not have problems navigating around my goatee or tight areas. Im hearing these are getting discontinued. Thus, I would recommend you have one in your collection. Overall Grade: A
Stahly Live Blade then Stahly Head on a Mercur 18 Handle: I started with the vibrating motion using the razor in its original capacity. Mine only vibrates for about 20 seconds and I wont crank it too much because of its age and fear of over-winding. Although Ive read positive reviews about the vibration shave, I found it annoying and gimmicky. I then switched handles to a Mercur 18 and discovered a very surprising combination. This provides an incredibly smooth and fairly close shave. Great combination for sensitive skin (although I did get a couple minor weepers). IMO, the Stahly head does better on typical handle versus their own vibrating, bulky, stubby handle. Overall grade C+
Gillette Aristocrat British 66: This is one of those razors I had to own and overpay for. I think it is one of the best looking razors out there with its rhodium finish and bulldog knurling. I didnt know what to expect and figured a typical Gillette-like shave. I was wrong; this razor shaved wonderful and had great sound as I made my passes. I tried a second time just to make sure my mind was trying to justify the ridiculous price I paid for it. But I had the same results. The neck area was smooth as silk after the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] pass and the entire shave was a pleasure. Overall Grade: A
1938ish Gillette Senator Open Comb: I was really curious about this razor and didnt realize it is a bit hard to find these days. I really enjoyed the open comb and found the razor to give a very smooth shave. The handle is a bit slim and I thought the knurling was a little slippery. The shave took the typical three passes and got fairly close. I think there are better razors out there, but have no complaints with the shave. Personally, I found the handle to be too slim for my liking and would stick to a Fat Boy over this one. I liked it better than the Slim so I give it an overall grade of B-
And the results are wow, this was not what I expected (this is going to open a can of worms!)
1[SUP]st[/SUP] Place: Hoffritz Slant
2[SUP]nd[/SUP] Place: Vision 2000
3[SUP]rd[/SUP] Place: Gillette English Aristocrat Model 66
4[SUP]th[/SUP] Place: Gillette Toggle
5[SUP]th[/SUP] Place: Gillette Red Tip
Runner Up: Gillette Fat Boy
