A newbies journey into DE shaving

[Phoenixkh]

So you have 7 razors at hand and 10 in storage? That's about the same number of razors I have. I can send you my spreadsheet if you want .

Cheers,

Guido.

I don't plan to install the unused razors into a rotation. I won't get to any of them until June... After we get back to the States in late May, I'll use the ones I missed during our trip.... then I have plans to tackle the RR SuperSlant again. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out the holes in my technique and get it up to the stellar category. I really do have thoughts about the PAA Filament. My wife just loves it.... and I will get to that one next, I think. As you can see.... this strategy is pretty loose. It will depend on my scattered thoughts as my journey continues to unfold.

Unless something special comes up lii the second half of the year, I'll probably be in a faux GRUME phase. I will take a close look at James of Wolfman fame's WR4 AC razor head. That's the only razor on my radar at the moment, but as you know, that can change in a hurry.

 

[spacemonkey42]

so 10 total. That's a lot of unused razors.

That sounds dangerously low for this crowd.

 

[spacemonkey42]

My Omega Proraso boar is now over a year old. It’s broken in, soft tips when lathering. Actually pretty good brush. With one small issue: it keeps eating away at my lather! Irrespective of the soap I use, somewhere in the first or second pass…boom…al lather gone.

Hey, @Guido75, I had the same frustrating experience with my 26mm and 24mm boar brushes. It got better when I learned to really load up the soap. I could then get to the third pass, but then in the third pass the lather was thin and somewhat broken down. I switched to an inexpensive synthetic brush and now I have gobs of thick lather all the way through the third pass.

I didn't want to like synthetics, I like the scrub of boars. But I can't argue with the results, I get much thicker and better lasting lather now with synthetic brushes. Do you have one to try? If you like bigger brushes, like the Omega Proraso, you may want to give a cheap synthetic a try - like the Razorock Big Bruce or I really like my Stirling Pro Handle 26x54 Plissoft.

Just a thought. Like I said, I had only used boar brushes and had a couple that were broken in and well loved. But I am very surprised at how much better the synthetics work for me and wanted to share what I found.

 

[Guido75]

Hey, @Guido75, I had the same frustrating experience with my 26mm and 24mm boar brushes. It got better when I learned to really load up the soap. I could then get to the third pass, but then in the third pass the lather was thin and somewhat broken down. I switched to an inexpensive synthetic brush and now I have gobs of thick lather all the way through the third pass.

I didn't want to like synthetics, I like the scrub of boars. But I can't argue with the results, I get much thicker and better lasting lather now with synthetic brushes. Do you have one to try? If you like bigger brushes, like the Omega Proraso, you may want to give a cheap synthetic a try - like the Razorock Big Bruce or I really like my Stirling Pro Handle 26x54 Plissoft.

Just a thought. Like I said, I had only used boar brushes and had a couple that were broken in and well loved. But I am very surprised at how much better the synthetics work for me and wanted to share what I found.

Thanks! I might to load up even more indeed. I actually only have one boar brush and one badger. The rest is all synthetic. My cheapest one lathers anything it touches!

Cheers,

Guido

 

[spacemonkey42]

Got it, glad you have other brushes to try. I would be really interested to hear if you mostly see these lather issues with your boar and not your synthetics. I was very surprised by the large difference.

At the same time that I realized I needed to load much more, I also switched to face lathering, using this video to learn how. I had been a bowl latherer until then, but I don't see going back to that either. This old dog can learn new tricks.

 

[Guido75]

Got it, glad you have other brushes to try. I would be really interested to hear if you mostly see these lather issues with your boar and not your synthetics. I was very surprised by the large difference.

At the same time that I realized I needed to load much more, I also switched to face lathering, using this video to learn how. I had been a bowl latherer until then, but I don't see going back to that either. This old dog can learn new tricks.

Yeah thanks! You posted that video in the other thread as well and that is definitely how it happened this morning. I now have a small cup to soak the brush in.

As far as synthetics go I have never had a bad lather from any of them really - my T3 is not yet where I think it can be but it performs. My Razorock Plissoft 400 is an absolute delight! Lathers to the max without question and independent of any soap. Even Mike’s! .

Guido

 

[Rosseforp]

I forgot I have a Merkur Progress sitting out though I haven't used it.. so 10 total. That's a lot of unused razors.

OK, I've never used the cheap Pawn Stars razor I got for a couple bucks on sale at Marshalls or the Fr. Nickisch my brother sent me from Switzerland, but I do plan on trying out my Assured I got from Dollar Store soon...

Outside of those three razors, I have used all the rest of the razors I have laying around at least once.

~doug~

 

[Phoenixkh]

OK, I've never used the cheap Pawn Stars razor I got for a couple bucks on sale at Marshalls or the Fr. Nickisch my brother sent me from Switzerland, but I do plan on trying out my Assured I got from Dollar Store soon...

Outside of those three razors, I have used all the rest of the razors I have laying around at least once.

~doug~

I'll get to all mine eventually.

 

[Guido75]

Date	13.03.2023
365 days of shaving	72/365 (100%)
GRUYERE	72/365 (100%)
GRUME March	13/31 (100%) 03/12 (100%)
Soap of the Month Club (SOTMC)	13/31 (100%) 01/12 (83%)

Razor	Blade	Brush
Mühle R41	Dorco Titan (5)	Omega Super Badger
Pre-shave	Soap & Bowl	Post-shave
Cold splash	Mike’s Barbershop Proraso Green	Cold splash

Efficiency	Quality
8/10 (~20 minutes)	10/10 (clean)
Effectiveness	Comfort
8/10 (DFS+/BBS-)	9/10 (buttery smooth)

Passes and Patterns	WXTG	XWTG	XATG
Cheek L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	W-E (slant up)	S-N E-W
Cheek R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	E-W (slant up)	S-N W-E
Neck L	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SW-NE
Neck R	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SE-NE
Upperlip L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	SW-NE (slant up)	SW-NE (slant up) S-N
Upperlip R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	SE-NW (slant up)	SE-NW (slant up) S-N
Upperlip M	N-S	-	S-N
Chin L	W-E	W-E	SW-NE S-N
Chin R	E-W	E-W	SE-NW S-N
Chin M	N-S	N-S	S-N

Notes to today’s shave:

Did some reading up on lathering technique (thanks @JAHE for reminding me and thanks @JCinPA for providing the guidance) yesterday - even made lather to test my abilities. I have used the @Marco Method (obviously! And if you haven’t: go do!) in the past as well but somehow drifted away from paying attention. The soaps I used this past year were all very forgiving in that sense. Mike’s is making me work again! And I want to check in with multiple methods to see which suits me best.

Today was a light lathering day as yesterday’s shave was so amazingly smooth, I could have easily skipped the shave all together, but that is a no-go in my book barring medical conditions! Brush was dryer today and I did just a 15 count swirl. Slightly underloaded in hindsight, but still a decent lather nonetheless. I think I will use this brush again tomorrow to give it another go.

So light shave. 2.5 passes and the R41 had me super smooth once again. Cheeks are marble-esk. Excellent shave!

Enjoy your shave today!

 

[Rosseforp]

Mike’s is making me work again!

Mike's was one of the first "Artisan" shaving soap I used and I found it lathered best when loaded heavy and add lots of water.

~doug~

 

[Guido75]

Date	14.03.2023
365 days of shaving	73/365 (100%)
GRUYERE	73/365 (100%)
GRUME March	14/31 (100%) 03/12 (100%)
Soap of the Month Club (SOTMC)	14/31 (100%) 01/12 (83%)

Razor	Blade	Brush
Timeless Ti95SCL	Personna Red (14)	Omega Super Badger
Pre-shave	Soap & Bowl	Post-shave
Cold splash	Mike’s Barbershop Proraso Green	Cold splash

Efficiency	Quality
8/10 (~20 minutes)	10/10 (clean)
Effectiveness	Comfort
9.5/10 (BBS+)	9/10 (buttery smooth)

Passes and Patterns	WXTG	XWTG	XATG
Cheek L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	W-E (slant up)	S-N E-W
Cheek R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	E-W (slant up)	S-N W-E
Neck L	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SW-NE
Neck R	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SE-NE
Upperlip L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	SW-NE (slant up)	SW-NE (slant up) S-N
Upperlip R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	SE-NW (slant up)	SE-NW (slant up) S-N
Upperlip M	N-S	-	S-N
Chin L	W-E	W-E	SW-NE S-N
Chin R	E-W	E-W	SE-NW S-N
Chin M	N-S	N-S	S-N

Notes to today’s shave:

I will never get enough of this razor!! I use it the most in my den and for all the right reasons! Loaded with a Personna blade and at least the brands are an excellent match in my book.

Used the JCinPA way of lathering again with more lather needed for today’s stubble. I loaded the damp brush until I felt it was more full than usual with around 40-50 counts. I first bowl lathered, toe-dipped my brush and lathered again, toe-dipped and went to my face. A nice slick lather build up for a great first pass. Not Tabac thick but sufficient enough given I used my badger which is in a floppy state of mind with hardly any backbone.

First pass super effective with the Ti95 mowing away. Audio feedback went from slicing to silence. Second lather was thinner but still good. Second pass was excellent. Smooth and comfortable and more silence. Laat lather was clearly transparent and just enough to do the third pass. ATG everywhere and marble marvel as a result.

I could hear the previous owner of this magnificent tool whispering in my ear “the judge awards an easy 10/10”. But alas I skipped one or two whiskers under my nose.

Enjoy your shave!

 

[flask28]

I found it lathered best when loaded heavy and add lots of water.

~doug~

My experience exactly!

 

[Guido75]

Date	15.03.2023
365 days of shaving	74/365 (100%)
GRUYERE	74/365 (100%)
GRUME March	15/31 (100%) 03/12 (100%)
Soap of the Month Club (SOTMC)	15/31 (100%) 01/12 (83%)

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette NEW Flat Bottom	Personna Red (15)	DVH Synthetic
Pre-shave	Soap & Bowl	Post-shave
Cold splash	Mike’s Barbershop Proraso Green	Cold splash

Efficiency	Quality
8/10 (~20 minutes)	9/10 (two tiny weepers)
Effectiveness	Comfort
9/10 (BBS)	7.5/10 (comfortable to smooth)

Passes and Patterns	WXTG	XWTG	XATG
Cheek L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	W-E (slant up)	S-N E-W
Cheek R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	E-W (slant up)	S-N W-E
Neck L	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SW-NE
Neck R	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SE-NE
Upperlip L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	SW-NE (slant up)	SW-NE (slant up) S-N
Upperlip R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	SE-NW (slant up)	SE-NW (slant up) S-N
Upperlip M	N-S	-	S-N
Chin L	W-E	W-E	SW-NE E-W
Chin R	E-W	E-W	SE-NW W-E
Chin M	N-S	N-S	S-N

Notes to today’s shave:

This razor was standing idle for quite some time, but now I have my rotation worked out it was up to bat. I decided to give the Personna another go after yesterday’s out of this world performance. Blade has more feeling today with minor tugging sensations. Better feel on passes two and three. My experience is that the NFB is a more harsher feel razor and actually I’ve that works better for me at a more shallow angle - maybe more neutral.

Used a synthetic brush with Mike’s this time. Or to be more precise: my new brush rotation suggested to use this brush. Liking the surprise element of this rotation set up. And the notion that I need more brushes! Using advise from Doug and Flask above I loaded heavy (well for nee anyway) on the brush and then bowl lathered using that toe-dipping way of adding water. And in the famous words of Mike Szorady: “BOOM! Lather!” Excellent three passes available. Nice glide. Best consistency on the third relathering.

Enjoy your shave today!

 

[flask28]

Date	15.03.2023
365 days of shaving	74/365 (100%)
GRUYERE	74/365 (100%)
GRUME March	15/31 (100%) 03/12 (100%)
Soap of the Month Club (SOTMC)	15/31 (100%) 01/12 (83%)

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette NEW Flat Bottom	Personna Red (15)	DVH Synthetic
Pre-shave	Soap & Bowl	Post-shave
Cold splash	Mike’s Barbershop Proraso Green	Cold splash

Efficiency	Quality
8/10 (~20 minutes)	9/10 (two tiny weepers)
Effectiveness	Comfort
9/10 (BBS)	7.5/10 (comfortable to smooth)

Passes and Patterns	WXTG	XWTG	XATG
Cheek L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	W-E (slant up)	S-N E-W
Cheek R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	E-W (slant up)	S-N W-E
Neck L	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SW-NE
Neck R	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SE-NE
Upperlip L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	SW-NE (slant up)	SW-NE (slant up) S-N
Upperlip R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	SE-NW (slant up)	SE-NW (slant up) S-N
Upperlip M	N-S	-	S-N
Chin L	W-E	W-E	SW-NE E-W
Chin R	E-W	E-W	SE-NW W-E
Chin M	N-S	N-S	S-N

Notes to today’s shave:

This razor was standing idle for quite some time, but now I have my rotation worked out it was up to bat. I decided to give the Personna another go after yesterday’s out of this world performance. Blade has more feeling today with minor tugging sensations. Better feel on passes two and three. My experience is that the NFB is a more harsher feel razor and actually I’ve that works better for me at a more shallow angle - maybe more neutral.

Used a synthetic brush with Mike’s this time. Or to be more precise: my new brush rotation suggested to use this brush. Liking the surprise element of this rotation set up. And the notion that I need more brushes! Using advise from Doug and Flask above I loaded heavy (well for nee anyway) on the brush and then bowl lathered using that toe-dipping way of adding water. And in the famous words of Mike Szorady: “BOOM! Lather!” Excellent three passes available. Nice glide. Best consistency on the third relathering.

Enjoy your shave today!

So it's just something with the boar and that second pass lather issue with Mike's? Very interesting. The Omega Jade has been delivering three passes but I wonder if I'll encounter the same problem with the Zenith unbleached boar I haven't really tried yet.

Boom! Lather! hahaha.

 

[Guido75]

So it's just something with the boar and that second pass lather issue with Mike's?

No, I can make it happen with a synthetic Omega as well! it’s me, it’s loading and it’s water. Almost had it this morning, but I can still do better.

Guido

 

[Guido75]

Date	16.03.2023
365 days of shaving	75/365 (100%)
GRUYERE	75/365 (100%)
GRUME March	16/31 (100%) 03/12 (100%)
Soap of the Month Club (SOTMC)	16/31 (100%) 01/12 (83%)

Razor	Blade	Brush
Timeless Ti95SCL	Dorco ST300HQ (9)	Omega Roma Capitolina
Pre-shave	Soap & Bowl	Post-shave
Cold splash	Mike’s Barbershop Proraso Green	Cold splash

Efficiency (scoring details here)	Quality
8/10 (~20 minutes)	9/10 (two tiny weepers)
Effectiveness	Comfort
8/10 (BBS-)	8/10 (smooth)

Passes and Patterns	WXTG	XWTG	XATG
Cheek L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	W-E (slant up)	S-N E-W
Cheek R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	E-W (slant up)	S-N W-E
Neck L	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SW-NE
Neck R	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SE-NE
Upperlip L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	SW-NE (slant up)	SW-NE (slant up) S-N
Upperlip R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	SE-NW (slant up)	SE-NW (slant up) S-N
Upperlip M	N-S	-	S-N
Chin L	W-E	W-E	SW-NE E-W
Chin R	E-W	E-W	SE-NW W-E
Chin M	N-S	N-S	S-N

Notes to today’s shave:

What a joy it is, waking up every morning and opening my cabinet to have this razor smile at me - if I use it or not. It's Timeless (pun intended). This time paired with a Dorco ST going on 8 shaves and with today 9. Smooth blade even after this many shaves and the whole shave was just smooth and comfortable. I messed up my passes as I apparently did not make up my mind how many I wanted to do. I started off with the notion of doing a 2.5 pass shave, but it kind of evolved into a regular 3 pass shave. So far so good, but it messed up me handling the razor and I mixed up strokes (i.e. I went ATG too fast and too steep) so I has a small mishap under the chin. Was dusted and done after final rinsing, but still. Combination worked well.

Soap started off nicely and I got a good lather going using the JCinPA guidelines. That worked, but I did forget to squeeze my brush so during the facelathering part the brush released too much water. Tomorrow is another day. Lather was decent enough for three passes - so definitely making progress.

Good shave - nice smooth result.

Enjoy your shave!

 

[Guido75]

Updated scoring charts

On page 15 I first mentioned the scoring charts I use to rate my shaves. I have since updated them slightly and I will be referencing to them from now on, so I thought it would be a good idea to include them again.

Rating	Efficiency	Quality	Comfort	Effectiveness
10	<15 minutes	Clean	GlideFest	BBS+ / Marble
9	~15 minutes	Tiny weepers	Buttery smooth	BBS
8	~20 minutes	Multiple weepers	Smooth	BBS-
7	~25 minutes	Nick	Comfortable	DFS
6	~30 minutes	Cut	Harsh	DFS-
5	~35 minutes	Multiple cuts	Tuggy	CCS
4	~40 minutes	Divot	Pulling	CCS-
3	~45 minutes	Sweeney	Uncomfortable	SAS
2	~50 minutes	Sweeney	Stop shaving!	SAS-
1	>50 minutes	Sweeney	Stop shaving!	No shave

 

[Butch Waxx]

Date	16.03.2023
365 days of shaving	75/365 (100%)
GRUYERE	75/365 (100%)
GRUME March	16/31 (100%) 03/12 (100%)
Soap of the Month Club (SOTMC)	16/31 (100%) 01/12 (83%)

Razor	Blade	Brush
Timeless Ti95SCL	Dorco ST300HQ (9)	Omega Roma Capitolina
Pre-shave	Soap & Bowl	Post-shave
Cold splash	Mike’s Barbershop Proraso Green	Cold splash

Efficiency (scoring details here)	Quality
8/10 (~20 minutes)	9/10 (two tiny weepers)
Effectiveness	Comfort
8/10 (BBS-)	8/10 (smooth)

Passes and Patterns	WXTG	XWTG	XATG
Cheek L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	W-E (slant up)	S-N E-W
Cheek R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	E-W (slant up)	S-N W-E
Neck L	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SW-NE
Neck R	N-S (slant down)	S-N	SE-NE
Upperlip L	NW-SE (Gillette Slide)	SW-NE (slant up)	SW-NE (slant up) S-N
Upperlip R	NE-SW (Gillette Slide)	SE-NW (slant up)	SE-NW (slant up) S-N
Upperlip M	N-S	-	S-N
Chin L	W-E	W-E	SW-NE E-W
Chin R	E-W	E-W	SE-NW W-E
Chin M	N-S	N-S	S-N

Notes to today’s shave:

What a joy it is, waking up every morning and opening my cabinet to have this razor smile at me - if I use it or not. It's Timeless (pun intended). This time paired with a Dorco ST going on 8 shaves and with today 9. Smooth blade even after this many shaves and the whole shave was just smooth and comfortable. I messed up my passes as I apparently did not make up my mind how many I wanted to do. I started off with the notion of doing a 2.5 pass shave, but it kind of evolved into a regular 3 pass shave. So far so good, but it messed up me handling the razor and I mixed up strokes (i.e. I went ATG too fast and too steep) so I has a small mishap under the chin. Was dusted and done after final rinsing, but still. Combination worked well.

Soap started off nicely and I got a good lather going using the JCinPA guidelines. That worked, but I did forget to squeeze my brush so during the facelathering part the brush released too much water. Tomorrow is another day. Lather was decent enough for three passes - so definitely making progress.

Good shave - nice smooth result.

Enjoy your shave!

Glad you didn’t get nicked too bad on that ATG stroke Guido!

 

[Guido75]

Glad you didn’t get nicked too bad on that ATG stroke Guido!

Thanks - just minor drawing of blood and gone by the time I was done. No red spots in the brush or soap either.

Tomorrow is another shave!

 

[mgweatherly]

Updated scoring charts

On page 15 I first mentioned the scoring charts I use to rate my shaves. I have since updated them slightly and I will be referencing to them from now on, so I thought it would be a good idea to include them again.

Rating	Efficiency	Quality	Comfort	Effectiveness
10	<15 minutes	Clean	GlideFest	BBS+ / Marble
9	~15 minutes	Tiny weepers	Buttery smooth	BBS
8	~20 minutes	Multiple weepers	Smooth	BBS-
7	~25 minutes	Nick	Comfortable	DFS
6	~30 minutes	Cut	Harsh	DFS-
5	~35 minutes	Multiple cuts	Tuggy	CCS
4	~40 minutes	Divot	Pulling	CCS-
3	~45 minutes	Sweeney	Uncomfortable	SAS
2	~50 minutes	Sweeney	Stop shaving!	SAS-
1	>50 minutes	Sweeney	Stop shaving!	No shave

I just might have to adopt this scale in the interests of global harmony.