A newbie’s journey into DE shaving

[lancre]

I can bring those differences down to two by the way. When I say BBS-levels, that includes BBS-/DFS+ borders you are referring to.

OK, that changes my percentages a little.

And what I also learned was that there is no need to actually chase BBS every single time or no matter what. Comfort and smoothness are much higher on my agenda. I think regarding my future goals that if I could have consisent shaves without any irritation (besides the temporary stinging of my aftershave - which is ok(ish) ), I will be one happy bunny. Most importantly because that will mean that I have improved my technique.

Absolutely. I don't chase BBS either. I value comfort much more than perfection. It's nice when it occurs though.

And I can do that with the razors I current have rather than the ones I still 'need' to get. I am also on the fence regarding pre-shave procedures. For now they work, but I have also gotten really good results without them. They work especially well somehow when I use a Tiger.

Yep. Your technique is more important than your tools, as long as you're working with something other than total garbage. As for pre-shaves, when I started, I tried oils and creams, and they helped a little, but as my technique improved, they had less and less effect.

 

[Guido75]

So, would taking the washer out give a netter shave? That was today’s main research question.

Date:	10.08.2022
Focused participations:	10/31 Days in GRUME (29% competed, still in and holding on) 219/222 in 365 days of shaving (98%)
Other participations:	Steep Angle Shaving Alliance High Efficiency Razors Summer Mild to Medium August All Aventus August
Razor:	Razorine Flatboy (72 handle)
Blade:	Tiger Platinum (3)
Brush:	Razorock Plissoft 400
Soap:	The Alpha Men 2.0 (Aventus Clone)
Bowl:	Proraso Green
Preshave:	Cold splash King C. Gillette Face Wash Proraso Green preshave
Postshave:	Proraso Green (A/S) Executive Man (Balm)
Passes:	WTG (NE-SW) slanted XTG (W-E) slanted ATG (S-N) slanted Light touch ups
Efficiency:	7/10 (25 minutes)
Quality:	10/10 (Clean as a whistle)
Comfort:	8/10 (Light redness on the neck)
Effectiveness:	8/10 (DFS+)
Notes:	A very nice shave today. I removed the washer and immediately felt less blade tugging on the first pass. Reinstalled the washer for the second pass and the first few strokes were harsh again, removed the washer and more smoothness as a result. My mind could be playing tricks on me or the blade could have broken in finally, but I going with the story that for this particular razor with a small cap post no washer is the way to go (even though I do not like it - the stainless steel handle is not buttery smooth in its finish and so I get metal on metal wearing). As the razor appeared to do a better job with more comfort I had no weepers or nicks and one less pass to do - so also more efficient. Effectiveness was similar and slightly beneath BBS. Comfortable shave and ready for the office. According to DHL restock blades (new brands) should be arriving today.

 

[Iridian]

Might be something to it. The washer should clamp the head down as much, so there should be no difference. But the screw of the Flatboy is particularly short.

Tatara has the handle itself, not only the screw, going deep inside the baseplate and head.

Let me quote them. I am just not sure how much that matters.

"(...) one of the exclusive specifications. It is responsible for:
- High perpendicularity between handle and razor head which permits better precision during the shaving:
- Symmetrical load distribution on the threads preventing excessive wear and increasing resistance (...)"

I know that fully tightening the Wunderbar gives a very different feeling when shaving. Even if you turn back the screw only a little.

For most razors I do not notice and difference with or without washer, though. Not one bit.

 

[Guido75]

Might be something to it. The washer should clamp the head down as much, so there should be no difference. But the screw of the Flatboy is particularly short.

Tatara has the handle itself, not only the screw, going deep inside the baseplate and head.

Let me quote them. I am just not sure how much that matters.

"(...) one of the exclusive specifications. It is responsible for:
- High perpendicularity between handle and razor head which permits better precision during the shaving:
- Symmetrical load distribution on the threads preventing excessive wear and increasing resistance (...)"

I know that fully tightening the Wunderbar gives a very different feeling when shaving. Even if you turn back the screw only a little.

For most razors I do not notice and difference with or without washer, though. Not one bit.

Same here @Iridian - I have washers in all my razors (and purely for the protection part, never actually thought about it influencing the shave) and never really given it much thought until yesterday. And maybe I am still seeing things - so this combination will get another go in the future with washer.

Tatara indeed has a very different take on their threading. Seems nicely designed (and makes sure we shavers can only buy their handles!). Given the very short post I had the idea it influenced it.

You have a Flatboy too - so I would be curious to know if you can (or be willing to) shave with and without and assess if that indeed makes a difference (barring all YMMV margins).

Cheers,

Guido

 

[Butch Waxx]

So, would taking the washer out give a netter shave? That was today’s main research question.

Date:	10.08.2022
Focused participations:	10/31 Days in GRUME (29% competed, still in and holding on) 219/222 in 365 days of shaving (98%)
Other participations:	Steep Angle Shaving Alliance High Efficiency Razors Summer Mild to Medium August All Aventus August
Razor:	Razorine Flatboy (72 handle)
Blade:	Tiger Platinum (3)
Brush:	Razorock Plissoft 400
Soap:	The Alpha Men 2.0 (Aventus Clone)
Bowl:	Proraso Green
Preshave:	Cold splash King C. Gillette Face Wash Proraso Green preshave
Postshave:	Proraso Green (A/S) Executive Man (Balm)
Passes:	WTG (NE-SW) slanted XTG (W-E) slanted ATG (S-N) slanted Light touch ups
Efficiency:	7/10 (25 minutes)
Quality:	10/10 (Clean as a whistle)
Comfort:	8/10 (Light redness on the neck)
Effectiveness:	8/10 (DFS+)
Notes:	A very nice shave today. I removed the washer and immediately felt less blade tugging on the first pass. Reinstalled the washer for the second pass and the first few strokes were harsh again, removed the washer and more smoothness as a result. My mind could be playing tricks on me or the blade could have broken in finally, but I going with the story that for this particular razor with a small cap post no washer is the way to go (even though I do not like it - the stainless steel handle is not buttery smooth in its finish and so I get metal on metal wearing). As the razor appeared to do a better job with more comfort I had no weepers or nicks and one less pass to do - so also more efficient. Effectiveness was similar and slightly beneath BBS. Comfortable shave and ready for the office. According to DHL restock blades (new brands) should be arriving today.

Interesting findings indeed Guido!

 

[Iridian]

You have a Flatboy too - so I would be curious to know if you can (or be willing to) shave with and without and assess if that indeed makes a difference (barring all YMMV margins).

I have the single handle version and mine is the smaller diameter "spiral" version without knurling. I would have preferred knurls but it was sold out at this vendor.

I tried to install a washer, as usual. But given the shape of that handle and how it screws in I...

1.) found out isn't necessary and doesn't scratch, as the "neck" of that handle is long. So it doesn't scratch or at least not visibly scratch.

2.) think it might even be more pronounced with this handle and a hard acrylic washer, I don't use silicone washers: While it screwed tight, I felt it wasn't fully screwed in and given that this screw is already on the very short side abandoned the idea of using the washer.

Don't beat me to it, but I will try to remember trying it with a washer next time. For tonight a Z0 shave is most likely. But let's see, I often change my plan last minute.

(I plan to elaborate on the Z0 prototype cap which is closer to the infamous R41 from 2012. IMO: the "shorter" top cap does not really give a better, closer shave. But it for sure makes the R41 a lot harsher. That's why I think of the later, supposedly less beastly R41s as an actual improvement)

Damn. I actually wanted to write that tonight after the shave. But let's see, maybe I will shave and it will be perfectly fine. I yesterday read what I wrote about the Tatara first time I used it. Sometimes I wonder about myself. Apparently I found something off with the OC and a Feather blade. Cannot confirm that anymore.

 

[Guido75]

I have the single handle version and mine is the smaller diameter "spiral" version without knurling. I would have preferred knurls but it was sold out at this vendor.

I tried to install a washer, as usual. But given the shape of that handle and how it screws in I...

1.) found out isn't necessary and doesn't scratch, as the "neck" of that handle is long. So it doesn't scratch or at least not visibly scratch.

2.) think it might even be more pronounced with this handle and a hard acrylic washer, I don't use silicone washers: While it screwed tight, I felt it wasn't fully screwed in and given that this screw is already on the very short side abandoned the idea of using the washer.

Don't beat me to it, but I will try to remember trying it with a washer next time. For tonight a Z0 shave is most likely. But let's see, I often change my plan last minute.

(I plan to elaborate on the Z0 prototype cap which is closer to the infamous R41 from 2012. IMO: the "shorter" top cap does not really give a better, closer shave. But it for sure makes the R41 a lot harsher. That's why I think of the later, supposedly less beastly R41s as an actual improvement)

Damn. I actually wanted to write that tonight after the shave. But let's see, maybe I will shave and it will be perfectly fine. I yesterday read what I wrote about the Tatara first time I used it. Sometimes I wonder about myself. Apparently I found something off with the OC and a Feather blade. Cannot confirm that anymore.

Thanks @Iridian - much appreciated. I currently use the hard acrylic ones as these were available at my local hardware store. Maybe my dad has silicone ones in his inventory somewhere (his toolshed is like a mini hardware store).
Love to read your findings on the R41/Z0 (although from what I am reading - did you just bias yourself?! ) - I think indeed (but purely based on that aweful clone head) that the later versions still give it a very close shave but less harsh. At least my first shave was not harsh, but extremely close (almost exfauliating close). As for the Tatara - beautiful one too. Do you have the Nodachi cap or the standard cap? I will look up your threads on that one.

Thanks again (and I won't hold you to it too much...)

Guido

 

[Iridian]

I currently use the hard acrylic ones

Hi, continue using them. Soft silicone isn't that good, if you tighten a lot it gets quickly worn out, particularly if you screw open a lot. The acrylic ones are perfectly fine.

I will tonight shave against the grain and my own preconceptions. Just wonder if I should screw the Destroyer handle on the Z0. It is actually retired: the R41 GS does everything it did. They even have something in common, massively overpolished handles.

 

[Guido75]

Hi, continue using them. Soft silicone isn't that good, if you tighten a lot it gets quickly worn out, particularly if you screw open a lot. The acrylic ones are perfectly fine.

I will tonight shave against the grain and my own preconceptions. Just wonder if I should screw the Destroyer handle on the Z0. It is actually retired: the R41 GS does everything it did. They even have something in common, massively overpolished handles.

Ok. Thanks on the washers. The Destroyer handle reminds me of the old open comb aluminium Apollo Solingen handles. Razorock has a sort of modern take on them in the super knurling one. In part cosmetics I guess (yeah, DS Cosmetics, duh! ) - the Karve rendering by DSC is also nice on the Z0.

I did find that a heavier handle helps me manage the R41 (YMMV), maybe it is similar for the Z0? ATG from the start? I am too newbie yet for that.

Guido.

 

[Eric_75]

So, would taking the washer out give a netter shave? That was today’s main research question.

Date:	10.08.2022
Focused participations:	10/31 Days in GRUME (29% competed, still in and holding on) 219/222 in 365 days of shaving (98%)
Other participations:	Steep Angle Shaving Alliance High Efficiency Razors Summer Mild to Medium August All Aventus August
Razor:	Razorine Flatboy (72 handle)
Blade:	Tiger Platinum (3)
Brush:	Razorock Plissoft 400
Soap:	The Alpha Men 2.0 (Aventus Clone)
Bowl:	Proraso Green
Preshave:	Cold splash King C. Gillette Face Wash Proraso Green preshave
Postshave:	Proraso Green (A/S) Executive Man (Balm)
Passes:	WTG (NE-SW) slanted XTG (W-E) slanted ATG (S-N) slanted Light touch ups
Efficiency:	7/10 (25 minutes)
Quality:	10/10 (Clean as a whistle)
Comfort:	8/10 (Light redness on the neck)
Effectiveness:	8/10 (DFS+)
Notes:	A very nice shave today. I removed the washer and immediately felt less blade tugging on the first pass. Reinstalled the washer for the second pass and the first few strokes were harsh again, removed the washer and more smoothness as a result. My mind could be playing tricks on me or the blade could have broken in finally, but I going with the story that for this particular razor with a small cap post no washer is the way to go (even though I do not like it - the stainless steel handle is not buttery smooth in its finish and so I get metal on metal wearing). As the razor appeared to do a better job with more comfort I had no weepers or nicks and one less pass to do - so also more efficient. Effectiveness was similar and slightly beneath BBS. Comfortable shave and ready for the office. According to DHL restock blades (new brands) should be arriving today.

I've never tried the King C. Gillette face wash, Guido. How would you rate it?

 

[Guido75]

I've never tried the King C. Gillette face wash, Guido. How would you rate it?

Eric, I would say excellent (upper 8,9,10 ish). It is high on coconut water and very slicky without being sticky. And definitely not dry like a face soap normally feels to me. Nice scent to it (masculine, but light) and it retains some residue on my face (it is a bit harder to wash off if you put it negatively) which I like, because it assists putting on the Proraso Green preshave.

Best,

Guido.

 

[Eric_75]

Eric, I would say excellent (upper 8,9,10 ish). It is high on coconut water and very slicky without being sticky. And definitely not dry like a face soap normally feels to me. Nice scent to it (masculine, but light) and it retains some residue on my face (it is a bit harder to wash off if you put it negatively) which I like, because it assists putting on the Proraso Green preshave.

Best,

Guido.

Thank you, sir. I will add it to my list.

 

[Guido75]

Date:	11.08.2022 Tech Thursday
Focused participations:	11/31 Days in GRUME (35% competed, still in and holding on) 220/223 in 365 days of shaving (98%)
Other participations:	Steep Angle Shaving Alliance High Efficiency Razors Summer Mild to Medium August All Aventus August
Razor:	Gillette Flat Bottom Tech
Blade:	King C Gillette (7)
Brush:	Omega Proraso Boar
Soap:	TGS Amber Fougere
Bowl:	Proraso Green
Preshave:	Cold splash King C. Gillette Face Wash Proraso Green preshave
Postshave:	Proraso Green (A/S) Proraso Green (Balm)
Passes:	WTG (NE-SW) | Gillette Slant XTG (W-E) | Gillette Slide ATG (S-N) | Mostly Straight Light touch ups
Efficiency:	7/10 (25 minutes)
Quality:	7/10 (Two tiny weepers)
Comfort:	8/10 (Very light redness on the neck)
Effectiveness:	8.5/10 (DFS+)
Notes:	I can fully appreciate and understand why other manufacturer have paid hommage, cloned, copied, enhanced, and what have you not to the Tech. And if GIllette would ever decide to really come back to the game and relaunch the Tech (either as it is or enhanced), they would blow everyone out of the water. Today's shave was awesome and comfortable. Maybe too comfortable, because at one point I thought I could get away with anything. However, this is still a DE razor, so too fast too ATG and I received two tiny weepers. But other than that the Tech was more efficient and smoother than yesterday's Flatboy. I admit that the blade has something to do with it. As much as I like the Tiger Platinum, it is no match for the KCG blade. Such a shame that it is so pricey. New experiment for today: I shaved my right side with my right hand (non dominant hand). I figured that the angle would change slightly in bringing the razor to my face (more straight) and therefore increase efficiency. My right side is harder to shave than my left and this change of hands did assist in a smoother right side with fewer strokes / passes. The Tech is forgiving enough to try this with, but I will test this theory with my Fatip tomorrow as well. Less soap brought me more lather (see my soap review for this soap in my Goodfellas thread: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/the-big-goodfellas-smile-soap-overview-review.625564/post-11875543) and no residue. It did disappear for the second pass (no lather?), but after adding water to the brush I was able to face lather back to consistency. Excellent shave!

 

[Shaun asleep]

But other than that the Tech was more efficient and smoother than yesterday's Flatboy

Please... Stop!!!
Wallet itching, must...resist!

 

[Guido75]

Please... Stop!!!
Wallet itching, must...resist!

The force is strong in you my young Padawan Shaun. You know you can do this, right?

Cheers,

Guido

Ps: look who’s talking?! You are making me itch with the one razor I had on my list from day two - the FOCS in gold…*o mani pad ohm…o mani pad ohm*

 

[Guido75]

Date:	12.08.2022 Razorine’s Revenge
Focused participations:	12/31 Days in GRUME (38.7% completed, still in and holding on) 221/224 in 365 days of shaving (98.66%)
Other participations:	Steep Angle Shaving Alliance High Efficiency Razors Summer Mild to Medium August All Aventus August
Razor:	Razorine Flatboy (70 handle)
Blade:	Gillette 365 (1)
Brush:	Blue Aluminium Synthetic
Soap:	Lavanda
Bowl:	Proraso Green
Preshave:	Cold splash King C. Gillette Face Wash Proraso Green preshave
Postshave:	Proraso Green (A/S) Proraso Green (Balm)
Passes:	WTG (NE-SW) | Gillette Slant XTG (W-E) | Gillette Slide ATG (S-N) | Mostly Straight Light touch ups
Efficiency:	7/10 (25 minutes)
Quality:	6/10 (Three weepers)
Comfort:	8/10 (minor redness on the neck)
Effectiveness:	9/10 (BBS)
Notes:	New blades showed up yesterday so I had to shave with them obviously. Decided to continue my studies on the Razorine. With washer and another handle. This blade was supposedly bigger than a regular blade, much like a Kai, but as far as I can tell there seems to be no difference actually - the Razorine took the blade well with no overhang and no more blade show than usual. Right from the first stroke I felt smoothness (compared to the Tiger I have used for two shaves). Lavanda helped because that gives razors immense glide. A pea’s worth of cream gives you a bowl of lather. So very efficient and also very unforgiving, but the blade showed its teeth a couple of times. But…I could have stopped at two passes, because it absolutely delivered on the shave. I like shaving too much for that and three passes opened up BBS heaven. The washer made no difference this time so I am keeping it in. It has more to do with just a notch more tightening of the handle to the head. I did change the handle back to the 72 again after cleaning. It is more nimble for the Flatboy and the 70 just fits the character of my R41 more. Make it look more bad ***. Excellent shave and the Flatboy showed what an excellent effective yet smooth razor it is. Another shave with the Trigger is necessary to check if that blade is an effective match with the Flatboy after all.

 

[Iridian]

Interesting, I have only the 72 handle and would rather have liked the 70 with knurls.

Tiger blades are mild, but not very sharp. I am not a fan of them. No idea about the Gillette 365. About some few blades being wider than others, the only thing I noticed besides sharp/mild/dull for all my blades so far was that the Nacet feels thicker/stiffer than many other blades, particularly Feather. I didn't buy a KAI so far. I had a few from a sampler and noticed nothing but felt they were not nearly as sharp as Feather blades. But even more expensive to get, at least for me.

I haven't shaved with the Flatboy in a while. It came in a pack of three razors, Timeless .78 OC and the Lupo .95 OC head. It's a very good razor, the other two are just a bit fancier or more to my liking.

I admire your dedication to keep a shaving journal. I shave in the evening, sometimes just before going to bed. Sometimes I just don't have the will or don't find the right words to describe my impressions. Difficult enough when I am fully awake.

Happy shaves & have a nice weekend.

 

[Guido75]

Interesting, I have only the 72 handle and would rather have liked the 70 with knurls.

Thanks! It was a matter of luck actually. Bought mine through a vendor in Italy who proposed both handles for the price of one (since then price has gone up I saw - by at least €10). The 72 handle is shorter and lighter - not by a stretch, but enough to make it more comfortable to me. And even the 72 has its challenges. I would love to know or experience what the Razorine would do with a Timeless Crown handle or a Windrose handle.

Tiger blades are mild, but not very sharp. I am not a fan of them. No idea about the Gillette 365. About some few blades being wider than others, the only thing I noticed besides sharp/mild/dull for all my blades so far was that the Nacet feels thicker/stiffer than many other blades, particularly Feather. I didn't buy a KAI so far. I had a few from a sampler and noticed nothing but felt they were not nearly as sharp as Feather blades. But even more expensive to get, at least for me.

I discovered I have a love/hate relationship with Tiger Platinums. My first couple of shaves were great and I was looking for an alternative to the very expensive KCG blades I was using until then. Based on those great shaves I stocked up and I believe I have 3 sleeves. Since then however, some shaves were great and others weren't. Or maybe it was that I discovered better blades, who knows. Like them enough to use them, but they are retired way sooner than my other blades. I have zero experience with Kai's and Feathers - somehow have the mindset that I need to hone my technique more for that. That said, I was looking at BICs as a sort of next project (I think I have RBAD). I am always on the look out for new blades, as long as they do not come in dispensers - I do not need extra plastic and I have a HUUGGEE blade bank already.

I haven't shaved with the Flatboy in a while. It came in a pack of three razors, Timeless .78 OC and the Lupo .95 OC head. It's a very good razor, the other two are just a bit fancier or more to my liking.

Can't blame you there! If I would have those in my den, my other razors will get less mileage too. A pack of three razors you say? You make it sound like it happened to you rather for you . That is a great pack to have found! And those two deserve to be shaved with from what I have read! On my bucket list for another day.

In fact, I really have to think about rotation, because otherwise I may even default to my Flat Bottom Tech (speaking of which, I saw a Flat Bottom New the other day, but asking too much for it and apparently the shave is only slightly more efficient I have read).

I admire your dedication to keep a shaving journal. I shave in the evening, sometimes just before going to bed. Sometimes I just don't have the will or don't find the right words to describe my impressions. Difficult enough when I am fully awake.

Happy shaves & have a nice weekend.

Thank you @Iridian - it is part dedication or addiction, you pick. I am going with OCD I think. At least thank you for taking the time to read some of these mumblings and impressions. Your keen eye and candid feedback help improve my knowledge on razors in general.

Have a great weekend!

Guido.

 

[Guido75]

Date:	12.08.2022 Second Shave Fatip Friday
Focused participations:	12/31 Days in GRUME (38.7% completed, still in and holding on) 222/224 in 365 days of shaving (99.11%)
Other participations:	Steep Angle Shaving Alliance High Efficiency Razors Summer Mild to Medium August All Aventus August
Razor:	Fatip Special Edition OC
Blade:	Gillette 365 (2)
Brush:	Omega Super Badger
Soap:	Lavanda
Bowl:	Proraso Green
Preshave:	Cold splasH Proraso Green preshave
Postshave:	Nivea Men (Balm)
Passes:	WTG (NE-SW) | Gillette Slant ATG (S-N) | Mostly straight Touch up pass for the neck
Efficiency:	8/10 (20 minutes)
Quality:	6/10 (Five weepers)
Comfort:	9/10 (very little redness on the neck)
Effectiveness:	8/10 (DFS+)
Notes:	Second shave today and while it’s still Friday I brought out the Fatip. I loaded the Gillette 365 blade from this morning to see what the performance would be. It was still comfortable and still sharp - with a number of weepers to show for it. Gone by the time I cleaned up, but more than I had hoped and bargained for. Could be for wanting to go too fast or just a little bit of pressure. I had not used the OC for a while. We will see. Efficiency is up from this morning. Two passes and I was basically done. Jaw line is always a challenge so did a touch up pass there. Lavanda with a badger requires more cream. First lathering brought slush so more cream did the trick. Still with a synthetic brush I het way better results with this soap. The overall result is good and I am glad the blade performed. There is not a lot known about this blade nor its longevity, so we are carefully progressing forward. Curious to know what it will do in the Tech.

 

[Guido75]

Date:	13.08.2022
Focused participations:	13/31 Days in GRUME (42.9% completed, still in and holding on) 223/225 in 365 days of shaving (99.11%)
Other participations:	Steep Angle Shaving Alliance High Efficiency Razors Summer Mild to Medium August All Aventus August
Razor:	Gillette Tech
Blade:	Gillette 365 (3)
Brush:	Blue Aluminum Synthetic
Soap:	The AlphaMen 2.0
Bowl:	Face lather
Preshave:	Cold splasH
Postshave:	-
Passes:	WTG (NE-SW) | Gillette Slant
Efficiency:	10/10 (<15 minutes)
Quality:	10/10 (Clean as a whistle)
Comfort:	10/10 (Super comfortable)
Effectiveness:	4/10 (SAS+)
Notes:	Very solid run with the Tech and a third shave for the 365. I did not have much time so did a one pass shave, but to be honest I would get away with this art the office. Really well and a good match between Tech and 365. Looking forward to tomorrow’s shave with the same gear set up and a full shave.