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A new project...

Because no one pointed it out, someone put the DD scales onto a Henckels blade. Henckels made some great razors. I like the shape of this blade, specifically that there are no stabilizers.

Aha...so this was a bastard to start with. Explains the lack of washers where I would expect some.

Well, it appears quite solid (I'll throw it back under the clamp for more curing), but...yikes, it's ugly! I'm also not sure how well the washer would be able to clamp on that distorted mess unless I filled it with epoxy/resin of some sort and sanded it flush.

Looking more and more like these scales will get kept for parts (bolsters) and new ones made. Guess I'll learn more things than I expected! At least I have these to use as a template.

Now...what to make new scales out of, or are new ones easily purchasable? That doesn't sound as fun...

Anyone know a good supplier of material in Canada? I do have a lot of cherry wood here that I use for the smoker...

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rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
Original or aftermarket, I think that those scales have had it. Best to replace.

I'm a timber sort of bloke so would prefer timber scales.
 
A couple other thoughts. One, save the wedge. Even if you don't use it, you can use it as a guide when you're sanding down a new one. Two, if you do end up using those scales, I would mock it up without internal washers and see how it rides. Potentially you wouldn't need to pin it quite as tight since there would be more friction between the scales and the tang. Which would be a good thing depending on how solid the repair is.

You'll learn things either way. Lord knows I have, on the handful of razors I've restored and rescaled.
 
A couple other thoughts. One, save the wedge. Even if you don't use it, you can use it as a guide when you're sanding down a new one. Two, if you do end up using those scales, I would mock it up without internal washers and see how it rides. Potentially you wouldn't need to pin it quite as tight since there would be more friction between the scales and the tang. Which would be a good thing depending on how solid the repair is.

You'll learn things either way. Lord knows I have, on the handful of razors I've restored and rescaled.
First, you've clearly not seen my shop. I don't throw good parts out! That includes the wedge, and the piece of plastic tubing that was used as a blade stop, I guess, where the middle pin was.

Second, the interval washers are now built-in to the scales, see above.

Making scales seems like a problem that could really use a good table sander... Sanding them by hand would suck. Oh, no... Not a reason to get more tools? [emoji6]
 
Making scales seems like a problem that could really use a good table sander... Sanding them by hand would suck. Oh, no... Not a reason to get more tools? [emoji6]

I do them by hand (and eye) albeit from some sort of template for the basic shape.
Here's one I did recently if it can provide you with any tips before you start.
 
I do them by hand (and eye) albeit from some sort of template for the basic shape.
Here's one I did recently if it can provide you with any tips before you start.

Thanks for that, I'll read through it. And as much as I love New Tool Day, I also remembered that I have multiple air-powered die-grinders, with various sanding discs, flap wheels, etc, that should work just fine for accelerating anything if need be.

I just have to decide on or stumble into some decent material! I plan on using the scales I have as templates, if need be. Not sure why they have a third middle pin acting as a stop, when almost every other set of scales I see has just a pin in the back holding the wedge, and one at the pivot. What acts as a stop in other scales? Is it just the spine of the blade? Just checking the beginning of your post, it also strikes me that the scales may not be the right size for the blade either.

More reading to ensue...

In the mean time, I'll concentrate on the blade. I don't foresee any problems there, but more dangerous words have never been spoken!
 
What acts as a stop in other scales? Is it just the spine of the blade?

Yeah, the spine at the toe. I close my blades and then back it off a mm so it's not actually touching. Over time a mark will appear from where it touches and this prevents it.
 
Yeah, the spine at the toe. I close my blades and then back it off a mm so it's not actually touching. Over time a mark will appear from where it touches and this prevents it.

Better than having the actual edge hit a piece of tubing, as was the case here!
 
Third pins are basically decorative. They seem to be a mark of a higher value razor, more or less. Anything that would add to the time spent making them is going to be a value add... extra jimps, decorated spines, 3rd pins, etc. I don't like them, because if you have a razor with a loose pivot, it's a lot harder to tighten it up because the 3rd pin is going to keep the scales from pinching together.

It may have been intended to keep the scales from warping but ironically you see a fair amount of 3 pin scales that are warped.
 

Legion

Staff member
FWIW, this is the type of blade that was originally in those scales. They are good, I'm kind of sorry I sold mine, but so is the blade you have.

I'm in the camp that says ditch those scales and custom make new ones. Don't throw them away, someone will want the inlays.

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I would just make some new scales. I highly recommend camel bone or blonde cow horn.

Look up ajkennedy on ebay. He usually has most of what you will need on hand. Good quality at a reasonable price.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
I have a few SR's with a third (middle) pin. No part of the blade touches this third pin, even when closed. Third pins are mainly seen in more "up-market" SR's.

The purpose of the third pin is to hold the scales apart near the shank/tang so that they do not contact the shank/tang stampings and, over time, wear them out. It should not alter the friction in the pivot pin arrangement.
 
I would just make some new scales. I highly recommend camel bone or blonde cow horn.

Look up ajkennedy on ebay. He usually has most of what you will need on hand. Good quality at a reasonable price.
Ooh, camel bone sounds very interesting, particularly because I'm Egyptian!
 
Look up ajkennedy on ebay.


No such seller found, BTW.

You do have me thinking that I live in Vancouver (Canada) Surely, things like Buffalo Horn, cow horn, etc can be found locally. I have a friend who does lots of carving with abalone and other beautiful stones as well. I'll ask him where to source such things.
 
No such seller found, BTW.

You do have me thinking that I live in Vancouver (Canada) Surely, things like Buffalo Horn, cow horn, etc can be found locally. I have a friend who does lots of carving with abalone and other beautiful stones as well. I'll ask him where to source such things.
Sorry about that.

He goes by ajkenne4xm3 on ebay. Just looked and he does have some camel bone in stock.

Here is one I did.
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He goes by ajkenne4xm3 on ebay. Just looked and he does have some camel bone in stock.

That's the one listing of his that will only ship to the US. Perhaps some export restrictions on bone.

No worries. I can think of lots of materials to use, and it would be nice to use something native to here.
 
Because I was cleaning the buffing wheels in prepartion of the blade anyway, drilled (where the new metal reinforcements are) and polished the old scales in case I want to use them for anything.

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