A Most Curious New Standard

[Buick48]

I was attracted to this New Improved that was offered on Evil Bay, and won the bid. I was curious about the fact that it was marked CASE MADE IN U.S.A., while having the standard
U.S. patent date and Made In U.S.A. on the underside of the comb/guard.

The razor arrived, and I found that it possesses the serial number: 2194S

According to page 184 of the Krumholz book, "New Improved razor sets are known to have been produced by the Gillette factory in sterling silver. and are numbered with an "S" after the serial number".

I took my new acquisition to a jeweler friend, and he tested it. It turned out that only the handle tube is silver, the locking nut and razor head are standard plate.

Most curious..... Did it leave the factory this way, or was it replaced for some reason? And if so, such a fine razor would surely have been returned to the factory for repair, which was done in those days (or possibly this was the repair). And why the export case, as it does not have the usual "G" inside of a "D" export marking?

Either way, I am most happy, as it is the first "S" number razor I have encountered, and a very unusual addition to my collection.

Kevin

 

[Graybeard57]

Can't answer your questions, but that razor is in great shape.

 

[imatabor]

 

[MntnMan62]

That is one sweet razor.

 

[Rwoodreno]

Very nice. Typically Gillette factory repairs of that era had two serial numbers per what I have read. Seeing as how the "S" number is on the head I would suspect that the Sterling handle and brass head is how it left the factory if your jeweler's test results are correct.

At least you have some factory info on your razor from the book you referenced. I have two CV Heljestrand safety razors I can find nothing about. They should not exist but they do. They are pre WW2 (I presume) stainless steel safety razors. Apparently in addition to being one of the first makers of SS blade straight razors, CV Heljestrand was one of the first makers of stainless steel safety razors Beautiful razors with zero visible wear and I have a third, nickel plated brass version, to compare them to. It's finish is worn enough to make the materials obvious.

 

[santamariasteve]

Why would you be "curious" that your American made Gillette razor had a case also made in the USA? I didn't quite follow that.

I have a Gillette New Standard razor that was made in 1921 with a serial # of 116046A. I have the case and it is identical to yours with the same markings. I also have the factory box the case came in. Among other information on the box is "Silver" and the retail price of $5.00.

I'm a little unclear on the difference between "silver" and "sterling silver." Is sterling silver better for a razor? If so, why?

 

[Rwoodreno]

Silver is thin silver plating. Typical plating thickness is much less than 0.001". Cost of the metal for silver plating a razor was probably less than .1 cent in 1930. "Sterling Silver" is .925 solid silver for the handle with some other metals alloyed with it for increased hardness and wearing ability. At the time the razor was made the cost of Sterling Silver wholesale was about $1 per ounce for the metal only. Then add the cost of fabrication for a very limited production item.

 

[Snurgblat]

Pretty!

 

[BSAGuy]

Nice score. Classy.

 

[Buick48]

Thank you Rwoodreno for the explanation of the difference between silver plate and sterling.

For Santamariasteve, This case is curious because it is an export case, with the words "CASE MADE IN U.S.A.", as opposed to "MADE IN U.S.A.". Razors that came in the "CASE MADE IN U.S.A." case were traditionally marked for export, with the additional G inside of a D stamping on the bottom of the razor's comb/guard. Attached are additional photos to explain what i am saying....

Cheers, one and all -- I wish all B & Bers a most wonderful Easter Holiday

Kevin

 

[MacDaddy]

The G-in-D marking doesn't appear to have been a generic export mark for anything leaving the States. As best as we can tell it may have been a specific requirement of the French government for plated goods being imported, but it's not clear that it was only used there.

Also, I don't believe that Krumholz is exactly right about the "S" suffix being specific to sterling silver sets either. We've seen gold sets come up with the same "S" series numbers, too -- I've got the New Improved De Luxe set below that's got an "S" number, for example. It's possible that it was more of a "Special" series for special order pieces, but it's really not clear. That's not to say that your jeweler friend was wrong, since I don't know what kind of testing they did, but there are a fair number of other sterling examples where the parts are actually stamped "Sterling" that I'm really rather suspicious that Gillette would have ever used the serial number suffix in that way.

It is a little strange to have the pairing of the "Case Made in U.S.A" case with a "Made in U.S.A." razor. You'd expect something more like a British-made razor in a case like that -- in either the British or Australian markets in particular -- but it's not absolutely impossible that you might find the pairing that you have there. The "S" series number makes me a little suspicious that what you've got there has been reassembled by a later collector. Whether or not any part of it is sterling, it would definitely be unusual to find one of those serials in an otherwise completely normal set.

 

[nemo]

Good lookin' New Standard. Thanks for the info and good to see you back, Porter.

 

[Buick48]

Porter ~

Thank you so very much for the input. You are indeed the Grandmaster of Gillette!

I think you are correct about someone having put this set together.... however Gillette
is known to have done some odd things, as well, especially with mismatched cases.

My jeweler friend used the acid test, and states that it is, in fact, .925 silver. That
being said, still leaves the question about the locking nut not being silver.

Last night, I purchased a simple standard gold Traveler set, with stock factory engraved
initials in a shield, with the serial number 6050S. I am most certain that you are correct
that Gillette used the "S" series for special order, and not silver as stated by Krumholz..

I lust to someday possess a magnificent set like yours!

Thank you,
Kevin

 

[BigJ]

That is one sweet razor.

+1! Sweet indeed!