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A Manifesto: The Search for the Perfect Mild Razor

I pulled out of buying when razors started getting on the extreme end of expensive ($200 for a head alone or more).

Last expensive razor I bought was a first year Above the Tie Slant with the uneven blade exposure, works well with a 7 O’clock yellow. Would be interesting to see how some of these compete with early artisan razors and vintage ones. I’ve debated a wolfman but can’t bring myself to do it. There’s a line which I can’t justify and that goes past it.
 
I get ya, brother. The Rex Konsul and I are having an ongoing relationship.

With occasional diversions into other razors in the Lather Pit such as the RazoRock BBS-OC.

We all recommend what we know works for us. Lately I've been using the BBS-OC simply because it's often a touch too mild for me but only just a little. I can spend a little more time with it and have a nice mild smooth shave (like this morning's).

It's a quality piece of machined stainless. Might be worth a look.

O.H.
How are you finding the Konsul? I tried the Ambassador and it was a little too blade forward for my liking. Have heard the Konsul is somehow smoother while maintaining the efficiency.
 

never-stop-learning

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Intro

Hi there. Before I launch into the meat and potatoes, allow me to set up the story. I have been DE shaving for 7 years now. Like most of us, I came off cartridges which I found irritating, expensive, and an unfulfilling experience. I have very coarse and thick beard growth and uber-sensitive skin. I have had to shave daily for as long as I can remember to avoid my skin itching and getting other skin problems.

When I started DE shaving, I started with a DE89 like most noobs, but quickly migrated to Fatip Gentile and from there, I tried a bunch of other mild and not-so-mild razors. Along the way, I have learned that FOR ME, a mild razor that I can take shallow is paramount because with decent technique, even a mild razor can give solid BBS in two passes plus buffing. I hope this post is helpful for some of the current and future noobs on this board and can save them some of the expenses and frustrations I went through in the last few years.

Rather than go over every failed razor in great detail, I will start with the razors that are currently in my rotation, which ones I am looking at next, and then provide a quick list of razors I had but got rid of because they didn't work.

The Current Rotation

1) Charcoal Goods Everyday (Brass): If I could only have one razor, this is the one I'd choose. I use Permasharps in it, and it runs over the face like a hot knife through butter. Zero blade feel, zero nicks, zero irritation, just an excellent BBS every time, and fantastic post-shave feel. If I had one thing to complain about it is that I have to take the razor apart for drying after every use to avoid crappy-looking water spots, but that is truly minor.

2) Timeless .68mm SB (Stainless Steel): Shaves VERY similar to the CG, but just a touch more blade feel. Also gives a very similar post-shave feel, but immediately after shaving, it feels like there is a touch of stubble left, but that somehow disappears after a few minutes. Ultimately, the only minor complaint is that due to its size, it can be a bit more challenging to get under the nose, but again... a very minor issue. I use Gillette Yellows in this one.

3) Wolfman WR2 .95mm SB (Stainless Steel): This one shaves super-smooth, as well, but because of its gap, this is a razor I avoid if I am in a hurry. While it normally won't bite, if I am in a huge hurry and start putting down the razor on my face a little too quickly, the hacking motion with that kind of gap can lead to cuts. But most of the time, this razor works beautifully and with its polish, it is a work of art. Gillette Yellows for this razor.

4) Blutt BR1 .67mm SB (Stainless Steel): The newest addition to my den and it does not disappoint. It is the mildest and least efficient razor in my rotation. But it also is the easiest and safest to use and still gives a BBS...albeit with some more buffing required. This configuration of the Blutt is what I imagine the lovechild of the WR2 and CG Everyday would be. The feel of the WR2 and the shave outcome is similar to the CGE. Permasharp seems to work best in terms of blades for me.

5) Timeless .38mm Bronze: My most efficient razor and the only positive blade exposure razor that has ever cracked my rotation. Mows over the face with a glide like the best of them, but the blade feel is there. This is the razor I use if I know I have a long workday ahead of me or if I need to look good for work for very long...like on travel days. Despite the efficiency, this doesn't irritate with 2 passes (although it can with 3 passes). I do have to be a bit more deliberate with choosing a shaving soap with this one (I go with my most protective ones) and I have to be careful not to load a blade that is too unforgiving. Permasharps or Gillette Yellows in this one are good for me.

6) Tatara Masamune: This is the standard Masamune Setup. I use a Nacet blade if I need/want more aggression, otherwise, I can use Permasharps or Gillette Yellows. This is the only razor in my current rotation that does not glide like a knife through butter. I find it weirdly blade forward with the Nacet and it can be quite draggy when using a steeper angle. I prefer shallow, but it is still draggy. That said...probably the safest razor in my den along with the Blutt and this is the razor I use for travel. Short trips, long trips...doesn't matter. It is so safe that I don't even need to bring an alum block. And will work with even the worst to average soaps and mediocre post-shave routines. It is a very versatile razor and that is what I like best about it. What it doesn't do is to deliver the same shave experience as the prior 5 and especially the first 4 razors. But I can look past that given its qualities.


What Razor is Up Next

The next razor I am planning on trying is the CX-316L from Carbon. Seems like another neutral exposure razor with the ability to go shallow.

Next Posts

Razors I have used but not kept in the rotation will be in the next post in this thread. Buckle up...it'll be a TLDR kind of post (even more so than this one).

If you have any questions about anything, feel free to ask.
Are you willing to consider Artist Club (AC) blade razors? Or are you sticking with DE only?
 
How are you finding the Konsul? I tried the Ambassador and it was a little too blade forward for my liking. Have heard the Konsul is somehow smoother while maintaining the efficiency.
Konsul has much less blade feeling and is much smoother than Ambassador.

It has the minimum blade drag among my razors because it is a double slant razor with very small blade angle.

But I don't really like the base plate drag which Ambassador also has.
 
How are you finding the Konsul? I tried the Ambassador and it was a little too blade forward for my liking. Have heard the Konsul is somehow smoother while maintaining the efficiency.

Not having tried the Ambassador, I don't have a personal point of comparison. What I'd heard about it didn't excite me. I find the Konsul, even cranked all the way wide open, to be a smooth shaver. With the gap closed down -- in my case to "2" -- it works very well ATG on stiff hair.

Although with most razors that I like I generally do a two-pass shave I break that up a little with the Konsul. I can get irritation from the ATG but with the Konsul I can do two ATG passes, one on "2" and then one on "4" and the reduction is more gradual.

I can say I like the Konsul a lot.

O.H.
 
The Haircut & Shave razors should be on anyone's radar. Their milder razors are phenomenal shavers, specifically the N075 stainless steel and the Z074 Titanium models.
As a fellow traveler to OP's manifesto (though I do not have a thick growth, but do have somewhat sensitive skin and wiry, sparser growth), my ZO74-ti will have to be pried from my cold, dead hands.
 
As a fellow traveler to OP's manifesto (though I do not have a thick growth, but do have somewhat sensitive skin and wiry, sparser growth), my ZO74-ti will have to be pried from my cold, dead hands.
Would love to try one of these, but haven't seen one on their site in a while. Any idea if they are discontinued, or just rotate between models?
 
Would love to try one of these, but haven't seen one on their site in a while. Any idea if they are discontinued, or just rotate between models?
I'm not sure tbh. I have been "out of the game" for the most part the past 18+ months or so. I've pretty much settled into a two razor rotation: the aforementioned H&SCo. Z074-ti and polished SS Blackland Vector head paired with a ti artisan handle. Thus, haven't communicated with Aji @ H&SCo in quite some time.

I did buy one of those new adjustable injectors from Supply this past spring, but have only used it a handful of times and honestly, not super impressed by it. I might sell it at some point but dislike dealing with the hassle.
 
To add to earlier comments the Gillette English Flat Bottom Tech is a great effective but mild shaver. And just slightly ahead of that: the Matador Deluxe. Amazingly mild and really effective without any blade feel.

Enjoy!

Guido
 
Would love to try one of these, but haven't seen one on their site in a while. Any idea if they are discontinued, or just rotate between models?
For some reason the website hasn't been updated for quite a while.

You can always drop Aji an email, see what he says. From what I gather, they are always super busy, so business must be good.
 
For some reason the website hasn't been updated for quite a while.

You can always drop Aji an email, see what he says. From what I gather, they are always super busy, so business must be good.
Just sent a message, fingers crossed they will produce more soon!
 
I definitely agree with those recommending any of the tech varieties. A 1948-50 Gillette aristocrat is also a mild razor and I find it to be more efficient than the tech
 
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I definitely agree with those recommending any of the tech varieties. A 1948-50 Gillette aristocrat is also a mild razor and I find it to be more efficient than the tech
I bought mine (48-50 Aristocrat) before some prices got out of hand. I recall it was around $25 shipped from an Etsy seller. I used to use it more than I do now because the original gold finish is still so nice on it (same with a gold ball end Tech I have). It's not like they're collectible but I like looking at them and yes, the Aristocrat is more aggressive but not by much. Is "efficient" the more correct or current term for "aggressive" these days?
 
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I bought mine (48-50 Aristocrat) before some prices got out of hand. I recall it was around $25 shipped from an Etsy seller. I used to use it more than I do now because the original gold finish is still so nice on it (same with a gold ball end Tech I have). It's not like they're collectible but I like looking at them and yes, the Aristocrat is more aggressive but not by much. Is "efficient" the more correct or current term for "aggressive" these days?
In my mind aggressive and efficient have different meanings when it comes to razors. But I think some people use the terms interchangeably. I have two 1948-50 aristocrats. I paid $40 for one without a case and $45 for one with a case. Still reasonable but not as good as what you paid
 
In my mind aggressive and efficient have different meanings when it comes to razors. But I think some people use the terms interchangeably. I have two 1948-50 aristocrats. I paid $40 for one without a case and $45 for one with a case. Still reasonable but not as good as what you paid
Still good deals.

I'm absolutely lost with the terminology of this forum. I've been shaving over a half a freakin' century and, much of the time, I have no idea of what you guys are talking about!
 
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