3m lapping film question

[tyrionstark]

So I purchased a set of lapping film from best sharpening stones last year and finally decided to break them out. I have watched quite a few videos and was really surprised to discover that the back of each sheet has adhesive. (I know they're 3m but still....). Every video I've seen it's the water that adheres the paper to the plate and I'm not sure how to approach this. Going through a progression of film all with adhesive backs seems irritating at best and problematic at worse if there's any type of buildup on the plate.

Has anyone used this brand and if so what was your approach?

 

[BDF]

3M makes both 'plain' lapping film, which is just the plastic material itself on the back, and PSA backed film, which is the adhesive type that you have. Most people seem to use the plain film- at least I do, and just hold it to the backing place with a film of water and vacuum generated by squeegeeing it down. Once the PSA type is stuck to a surface, it is basically left there until it is shot and needs to be changed.

Brian

So I purchased a set of lapping film from best sharpening stones last year and finally decided to break them out. I have watched quite a few videos and was really surprised to discover that the back of each sheet has adhesive. (I know they're 3m but still....). Every video I've seen it's the water that adheres the paper to the plate and I'm not sure how to approach this. Going through a progression of film all with adhesive backs seems irritating at best and problematic at worse if there's any type of buildup on the plate.

Has anyone used this brand and if so what was your approach?

 

[Alejandro Salemandro]

I made the same mistake. Have not had an issue with the adhesive backing, just make sure everything is cleaned and first free, but I will not order it again.

 

[tyrionstark]

Well....rats. So essentially I'd need either a very big surface to work with with a strip of each on the progression adhered...or a bunch of smaller honing surfaces with one strip each.....or just suck it up and get some stones. Sigh. Since I was so psyched to try my hand at a first hone today, might have to break out the big piece of scrap corning ware and lay down my progression and see what happens. Think I'm going to have to research dmts again.....

Thank you very much for the info. Feels like a rookie mistake.....

 

[Alejandro Salemandro]

Honestly, just use what you have, and peel off and throw away as you go! No biggie.

 

[bluesman 7]

I think Hees found that simple green removed the PSA. I have no experience with it myself.

 

[BDF]

Wow! No need for anything as drastic and evil as that!

The PSA type will work fine if you can get it stuck to a platen without any dust or debris under it. Frankly, this is the biggest issue with using film I think- it took me quite a while to figure out the three- squeegee method of mounting film (Easy Boys!) without all the fuss. But the smallest particle(s) of dust, a fleck of dead skin or a tiny hair under film will cause it to perform poorly and very likely end up with the film sliced from the "lump" getting sliced off by the razor. Flat and straight are important things when honing a razor, at least they have been for me.

Brian

Well....rats. So essentially I'd need either a very big surface to work with with a strip of each on the progression adhered...or a bunch of smaller honing surfaces with one strip each.....or just suck it up and get some stones. Sigh. Since I was so psyched to try my hand at a first hone today, might have to break out the big piece of scrap corning ware and lay down my progression and see what happens. Think I'm going to have to research dmts again.....

Thank you very much for the info. Feels like a rookie mistake.....

 

[oakeshott]

Well....rats. So essentially I'd need either a very big surface to work with with a strip of each on the progression adhered...or a bunch of smaller honing surfaces with one strip each.....or just suck it up and get some stones. Sigh. Since I was so psyched to try my hand at a first hone today, might have to break out the big piece of scrap corning ware and lay down my progression and see what happens. Think I'm going to have to research dmts again.....

Thank you very much for the info. Feels like a rookie mistake.....

NOTE: I have never done this.

You could get a couple of flat pieces of Marble from Home Depot. Then you'd have some custom lapping plates until the film wears out. The marble plates are cheap and they may have some smaller than 12x12.

 

[Fish Slayer]

NOTE: I have never done this.

You could get a couple of flat pieces of Marble from Home Depot. Then you'd have some custom lapping plates until the film wears out. The marble plates are cheap and they may have some smaller than 12x12.

You could go to Lowes or HD and get a STONE tile, mable etc that is ground flat. (ceramic tile will not be flat). I would have a 12 X 12 tile cut into thirds so you will have 3 each 4" tiles and cut your film somewhere into strips between 3 and 4 inches wide and adhere it to the tile sections. I think most home stores will even cut the tiles for a nominal charge.

I have read that others but a trim tile made for doorways etc that is already about 4" wide. That should work as well.

Don't give up yet.

 

[Silverirae]

NOTE: I have never done this.

You could get a couple of flat pieces of Marble from Home Depot. Then you'd have some custom lapping plates until the film wears out. The marble plates are cheap and they may have some smaller than 12x12.

This is what I did. 12x12 tiles cut into 3" sections.