2k enough to set bevel?

[Hygieia]

I have been using a coticule as my one and only stone but have come to the conclusion that I need a good bevel setter. I am not getting consistently good honing work done with slurry and now intend to use the coti only as a finisher.

Will a Shapton 2k be enough to set a new bevel when needed on a straight razor or would you recomend a 1k stone instead?

I am also adding a 5k shapton and have a 8k yaxell stone laying around. So progression would be:
2k -> 5k -> 8k -> Coticule under running water -> leather

Would this also be ok for light restoration work. Light rust, smaller chips in the bevel etc?

 

[ables]

Yes. I often use my shapton 2k to set bevels on razors in good condition. The feedback is great, metal swarf bleeds right off the razor and it leaves a very nice bevel, that the shapton 5k will quickly almost mirror up.

If the edge is in poor condition, decent sized chips or uneven, you will likely want a lower grit stone however.

You could also consider the shapton 1.5k.

 

[HazMat Shaver]

Yep. Heavy work is best left to a 1k but a 2k Shapton will get it with some more effort. I go from 2k, 4k, 10k to a finisher. From 2k to 5k is ok too with Shapton stones. Just be sure you're removing all the previous stria. Don't know anything about the 8k stone you got.

Most hone makers say X2 between steps... 1, 2, 4, 8...
Shapton says you can do x3... 1, 3, 8...
This is why I do 4 than 10.

 

[Hygieia]

Yes. I often use my shapton 2k to set bevels on razors in good condition. The feedback is great, metal swarf bleeds right off the razor and it leaves a very nice bevel, that the shapton 5k will quickly almost mirror up.

If the edge is in poor condition, decent sized chips or uneven, you will likely want a lower grit stone however.

You could also consider the shapton 1.5k.

How much different is the 1,5k stone? I have heard it is smoother somehow than both 1k and 2k.

 

[Hygieia]

Yep. Heavy work is best left to a 1k but a 2k Shapton will get it with some more effort. I go from 2k, 4k, 10k to a finisher. From 2k to 5k is ok too with Shapton stones. Just be sure you're removing all the previous stria. Don't know anything about the 8k stone you got.

Most hone makers say X2 between steps... 1, 2, 4, 8...
Shapton says you can do x3... 1, 3, 8...
This is why I do 4 than 10

The yaxell 8k i got is from Japanese knife producer. I am pretty sure they dont make their own stones but rather put their brand on stones from other known producers. It was not cheap either at around 90 euors. Bought knowing nothing about honing...

Is it known to which companys the stone production is usiually outsorced to?

 

[ables]

How much different is the 1,5k stone? I have heard it is smoother somehow than both 1k and 2k.

I have the shapton kuromaku 1k and 2k, never bought the 1.5k for this reason. The 1.5k is often discussed around here as a great razor bevel setter, based on my shapton experience I couldn't imagine otherwise. The 2k is really smooth and feels great, it is one of the few synthetic stones that really shocked me, in a good way, to use the first time. The 1k is a bit harsh under a razor and can get some of the "Nails on a chalkboard" feel-noise which is unpleasant.

 

[2bit_collie]

Agreeing with earlier responders… I have a Shapton 2k and barring significant chips or resetting a bevel on a razor that was previously honed with tape, that is my bevel setter. In those cases I drop to my 1200, 800 or even a 320 Shapton (that is only when the chips are around 1mm in size).

 

[Doc226]

Absolutely, you can set a bevel with a good 2k stone. Now if you're removing chips or setting a bevel on a restored razor-that will take a while.

 

[Slash McCoy]

The Shap 2k or the 1.5k either one will do fine, if no heavy work is needed, or you have patience. I would add something coarser like a Chosera 600 or Norton 1k, and for real basket cases the Shapton Kuromaku 320. If there are chips or dings and you have to seriously excavate some steel, you will be glad to have something faster. For a razor in good shape, the 2k will do nicely to set/check the bevel.

You can also set a bevel on 1k to 2k grit resin based wet/dry sandpaper stuck to a very flat and inflexible surface with a light spray of spray adhesive. Instant bevel setter. If you seldom set a bevel then you might not want to spend a hundred bucks on coarse stones. 30µ lapping film also works, better than the sandpaper as the grit is more consistent with fewer proud particles that gouge deep scratches. With sandpaper, you can fix that to a degree by making a few passes with a SS chef knife or similar big heavy blade.

My favorite stone that I use as a bevel setter is my Chosera 600. I clean that up with a Naniwa SuperStone 1k, then usually go to 9, 3, and 1µ type 261 3M or type 26M Nanolaptech lapping film. That sets my edge up for a three stage lapped and pasted balsa progression.

 

[SliceOfLife]

On an old hard wedge that can't cut butter and basically needs reprofiled? Nah. Hell 300grits are a paid to regrind those on. You'll wish you had a bench grinder.

On a full hollow that's just been a little breadknifed or dulled from age? No problem.

On a Gold Dollar that they finished on a 60 grit belt? Yeah, it'll just take a bit of time.

 

[Steve56]

It’s important not to confuse corrective honing with maintenance honing, and of course these categories are not sharply defined.

If you want to set a bevel on a razor that’s in reasonably good condition, a 2k will do fine. So will a 4k Shapton HR Glass Stone. My normal bevel setter is a Shapton Glass Stone from 2k to 4k depending on the condition if the edge.

If you need to remove chips and frowns, reprofile, remove heel hooks, etc, get out the diamond plates and coarse stones.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Seems like a lot of guys use a Shapton HR 2k. Anyone have experience with both the Shapton 1k and 2k?

I am curious if you can just take it easy on a Shapton 1k or is it crazy fast for normal bevel setting.

 

[Gamma]

Not really a huge fan of the Shap 2k for razors. They work, sure, no prob. You can set a bevel on a 4k if you want to. The 2k Pro is a bit softer, not my style of stone for bevels. I prefer the 1.5k by a long shot, makes a better bevel for me. The 1k Pro is also softer, bit grainier feeling too. I use it for cutlery only, does well there.
I think the 2k glass is a nudge better than the 2k Pro, for razor bevels. I would go with the 1k Glass through.
All of the above will 'work' - a lot depends on preference and honing style. I do better with a harder stone in that slot.
If I am going to continue on synths after the 1.5k Pro, I might go to the 5k Pro. Or I might go to the 4k or 6k Glass, might use both of them actually. I rarely progress on synths, but after the 6k glass, an 8k is redundant - the 10k Glass is the bomb though. Final finish is usually always a natural but I might jump to the 30k just for the heck of it.

 

[Frank Shaves]

I really like my Shapton HR 4k and 8k - the feel of the surfaces, the color and the glass bases.

I have a Naniwa Chosera 1k which I like. Works great. I just don't enjoy the feel as much as the Shapton glass.

The Shapton HR 1k sounds like a winner.

 

[Steve56]

Seems like a lot of guys use a Shapton HR 2k. Anyone have experience with both the Shapton 1k and 2k?

I am curious if you can just take it easy on a Shapton 1k or is it crazy fast for normal bevel setting.

I somehow missed this Frank. I have both. It really depends on what comes afterwards in your sequence. Remember that the Glass Stones were designed to go in 3x increments.

Shapton HR 1k -> HR 3k -> HR 10k or HC 8k -> JNat finisher
Shapton HR 2k -> HC 6k -> JNat finisher
Shapton HR 4k -> HC 8k or HR 10k - JNat finisher

The starting grit is what determines the stones that follow, and the starting grit is determined by the condition of the edge.

Hope this helps.

 

[JPO]

I really like my Shapton HR 4k and 8k - the feel of the surfaces, the color and the glass bases.

I have a Naniwa Chosera 1k which I like. Works great. I just don't enjoy the feel as much as the Shapton glass.

The Shapton HR 1k sounds like a winner.

I have the Shapton gs 1k. It is a grate stone. However, the tactile feel is also dependent on the grit to some extent. I will use a 1k stone only if I have to. I would rather spend a few more minutes on a 2-3k because i like the feedback better.
The Shapton 1k is also coarser then your Naniwa. I know what you mean by a smooth feel with these Shaptons, I just don't get that with the lower grit stones.
It Is probably nice to add it to your Shapton lineup, but the Naniwa is hard to beat.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Thanks for the feedback @Steve56 and @JPO!

 

[lightfoot]

The Shap 2k or the 1.5k either one will do fine, if no heavy work is needed, or you have patience. I would add something coarser like a Chosera 600 or Norton 1k, and for real basket cases the Shapton Kuromaku 320. If there are chips or dings and you have to seriously excavate some steel, you will be glad to have something faster. For a razor in good shape, the 2k will do nicely to set/check the bevel.

You can also set a bevel on 1k to 2k grit resin based wet/dry sandpaper stuck to a very flat and inflexible surface with a light spray of spray adhesive. Instant bevel setter. If you seldom set a bevel then you might not want to spend a hundred bucks on coarse stones. 30µ lapping film also works, better than the sandpaper as the grit is more consistent with fewer proud particles that gouge deep scratches. With sandpaper, you can fix that to a degree by making a few passes with a SS chef knife or similar big heavy blade.

My favorite stone that I use as a bevel setter is my Chosera 600. I clean that up with a Naniwa SuperStone 1k, then usually go to 9, 3, and 1µ type 261 3M or type 26M Nanolaptech lapping film. That sets my edge up for a three stage lapped and pasted balsa progression.

Slash, do you find the need to lap your 1k Super Stone frequently while honing? Not trying to derail BTW….

 

[Slash McCoy]

Slash, do you find the need to lap your 1k Super Stone frequently while honing? Not trying to derail BTW….

Not really, but I use my 1k Nanny as often as not just to sort of clean up after the 600 Chosera or 1k Norton that I have played around with a few times. So I am not really going and going on the 1k SuperStone with lots of pressure, which will ensure that you would want to give it a quick lap before each razor. Typically I will lap it before a honing session, and it won't take very much to get it flat. Sometimes I go two or even three sessions without lapping but really I should lap it a little before each session. A typical session will see me doing 10 razors. I don't hone often, but when I do, I make a day of it. If I used the 1k Nanny as my only bevel setter, instead of the cleanup stone, and I was honing lots of GDs and fleabay rescues with lots of dings and chips, I would lap before every razor. It is not a super soft marshmellow of a stone, but neither is it a particularly hard one. It is very nice for cleaning up a bevel that has some deep scratches but is otherwise nicely set. Very small chips don't faze it in the least. Again, I don't put a lot of pressure on this stone. I have had it for probably 10 years and it is definitely not as thick as when I bought it.