This thread was accidentally deleted so I repost in an updated version. Hope you like it.
In March 2018 I acquired a gorgeous British made Gillette Aristocrat razor on the BST of another forum. I loved it from the get-go, for it’s amazing build quality, stunning barberpole looks, and of course for the absolutely stellar and smooth shaves it provides. So not unexpectedly it also provided me with a serious itch for more.
Since then I’ve spent too many hours learning about the strange details of the various razor generations and sets. And I have hunted the BST’s, various bays, Facebook and all other places I could think of. On top, I’ve proactively reached out to people I know here and elsewhere to collect set parts (razors, cases, blade holders) in an effort to build matching sets from the ground up, based on the knowledge and unique encyclopedia of Achim (www.mr-razor.com) and others here.
So I thought I’d share here with you gentlemen for referencing a bit of background on these wonderful razors and to show in one place some of the official British Aristocrat sets offered back then. But also to illustrate how much help you need if you dive deep into collecting vintages. Help from Achim/mr-razor and help from all the many razor experts and enthusiasts here on B&B, suggesting, teaching, pointing and correcting misunderstandings. And significantly for me, without the huge help of Chris Evatt and Cap Murphy for refurbishings I could not have made it within my budget. Thank you all helpers, enablers, and razor hunters!
For sure far from all the British made Aristocrat sets are inhere - over in the big leagues my razor collecting friend and role model Dan holds 32 different sets (and counting) so there’s still a ways for me to go!
What we know about the UK Aristocrats
Considering the British Aristocrat line’s total lifespan of 30 years it is amazing that these razors came in basically only 4 different models:
(A) 1st generation razor: Made in the mid-late 1930s. The razor didn’t really change during production except that early ones (1936) had non-winged centerbars (this early model sometimes called the “Pre-#15”) and were silver plated. Later (1938) the centerbar was changed and the razor was rhodium plated (a gold razor in the #19 set, though). Early 1st generations had patent no 400.621 on the baseplate, later ones with 430.030 on the baseplate. Some with engravings on the handle, some not (model year variations?). Distinguishing feature: The only open comb of the 4 family generations, and with a thicker handle than the same-era Gillette Popular.
(B) 2nd generation razor: Made in the late 1940s: solid bar, baseplate 430.030. Came in rhodium and possibly gold. Distinguishing feature: Two broad non-knurled bands at each end of the handle (above the TTO knob).
(C) 3rd generation razor: Made in the late 1940s/early 1950s, solid bar, baseplate 430.030, rhodium or gold plating. Distinguishing feature: The heaviest razor of the generations at 82 grams, 5-10 grams heavier than the others.
(D) 4th generation razor: Made in the 1950s (1953-58ish), solid bar, rhodium or gold plating. Distinguishing feature: diamond pressed baseplate; actually the same head as on the same-era Gillette Rockets.
So razor model-wise a very limited number of variations.
The plot thickens... Those confusing set combinations and numbers!
To put it short: The often mentioned #’s only refer to full sets, i.e. a razor coupled with a certain case. So without a case the razor has no #, but can only be called by its generation.
All 4 razor generations came in a bunch of different set combinations with various cases. We don’t even know for sure all the sets/combos made, but we know that each of them typically were coined with a number, e.g. “The #15 set”. And adding to the confusion the same set number and case design over time could include various generations of razors. And it seems in general that Gillette often mixed sets up in order to use up old stocks of particular parts.
On top of these unknowns we even lack historic first hand source information on the overall story of how it came to be that the British Gillette organization for a long period of time from the 1930s through to 1960 took a different design route than the US mother company. I guess the world was less globally standardized in the good old days.
Gillette’s UK factory at Gillette Corner, Great West Road, Isleworth, Middlesex. Inaugurated in 1937 and in operation until 2006, when Gillette moved all production to Poland (photos from 1974, Googleearth photo from 2019, drawing of building layout courtesy of mr-razor
Quote from the Aberdeen Press & Journal, 07 January 1937: “The new factory is capable of turning out one and a half million safety razor blades per day and 25,000 razors. The factory will supply fifty miles of blade edge each day, one half of which will be exported, and the other sold in Great Britain. Japan is one of the firm's best customers, supplying one of the largest markets for Gillette razors and razor blades.”
My razors
My plan was initially to acquire just 4 rhodium razors, one from each generation. But as you can see I have strayed a wee bit from that decision, haha - mainly because I fell in love with the case designs also.
Lastly - a huge disclaimer on all Gillette/Aristocrat info listed above/below: There are quite a few MUCH more knowledgable experts on British Aristocrats who will be reading this, so I really hope they will pitch in to comment and to correct any mistakes I have made. I’ve done this write-up to the best of my current knowledge but I am sure that errors have been made and that much more info can be added on top. Thanks upfront guys!
But enough said already, here goes. I hope you enjoy the photos and the razor backstories, some of which I have shared partly in various earlier threads.
I waited long to try these gorgeous open comb as I feared they would be too aggressive for me. They are not! They are wonderful and smooth, even if they have a reputation of being very individual shavers. Probably due to time and individual level of use each specimen shaves a bit different, some milder and others more aggressively. All mine are mild shavers though, my favorite OC. The beautiful thick teeth make them shave like a solid bar razor. To me quite frankly the best looking razor model ever made by any company, bar none, and one of the finest shavers also.
The 1936 Pre-#15 sets with non-winged centerbar and silver plating
I show these very first production runs in three guises: (1) The ‘British’ standard version, (2) the special French version made for the French market. This version is quite unique with the special ‘Importé D’Angleterre imprint in the case lid and similar engraving on the razor handle. The UK Gillette business in the 1930s offered quite a few of these specially branded French market versions, other examples are Techs, the RFB #77, and the Populars as well (as seen below).
And then there is this fascinating bespoke version: 1936 Gillette Aristocrat 1st gen #15 set, silver razor in all sterling silver bespoke case, made 1936 by W.J. Myatt & Co., Birmingham, UK (“pre-#15” set, non-winged):
This remarkable set contains a 1936 pre-#15 1st gen Aristocrat razor in all-silver plating. But even more importantly the razor comes housed in a unique bespoke all sterling silver case with markings stating that it was made in Birmingham 1936 by company W.J. Myatt & Co. Even the blade holder is sterling silver plated(!). On the outside the case is truly remarkable and detailed, while the insides are a bit more plain with simple all-brown clothing. It would be safe to assume that the razor was originally delivered to its proud owner in this very case.
1938 Gillette Aristocrat 1st generation #15 OC
Here shown in 3 versions all holding the winged rhodium plated razor: the British version with all-block letter imprint, another with diamond logo imprint, and then a French version, Importé D’Angleterre.
The first set in the picture was acquired one of the European bays. The second set was aquired in Germany and came with a German language manual. The French set came as a full original set from a seller in Spain, and even came with the nice small partly French language manual. Marked 400.621 on the baseplate indicating that it is a earlier/mid-1930s production year.
1938 Gillette Aristocrat 1st generation #15 OC set, rhodium
This set combination supposedly was made for the Australian market with the bright red cloth interior of the case. Visually the razor is similar to my other #15 OC with no engravings on the handle and with 430.030 on the baseplate.
In March 2018 I acquired a gorgeous British made Gillette Aristocrat razor on the BST of another forum. I loved it from the get-go, for it’s amazing build quality, stunning barberpole looks, and of course for the absolutely stellar and smooth shaves it provides. So not unexpectedly it also provided me with a serious itch for more.
Since then I’ve spent too many hours learning about the strange details of the various razor generations and sets. And I have hunted the BST’s, various bays, Facebook and all other places I could think of. On top, I’ve proactively reached out to people I know here and elsewhere to collect set parts (razors, cases, blade holders) in an effort to build matching sets from the ground up, based on the knowledge and unique encyclopedia of Achim (www.mr-razor.com) and others here.
So I thought I’d share here with you gentlemen for referencing a bit of background on these wonderful razors and to show in one place some of the official British Aristocrat sets offered back then. But also to illustrate how much help you need if you dive deep into collecting vintages. Help from Achim/mr-razor and help from all the many razor experts and enthusiasts here on B&B, suggesting, teaching, pointing and correcting misunderstandings. And significantly for me, without the huge help of Chris Evatt and Cap Murphy for refurbishings I could not have made it within my budget. Thank you all helpers, enablers, and razor hunters!
For sure far from all the British made Aristocrat sets are inhere - over in the big leagues my razor collecting friend and role model Dan holds 32 different sets (and counting) so there’s still a ways for me to go!
What we know about the UK Aristocrats
Considering the British Aristocrat line’s total lifespan of 30 years it is amazing that these razors came in basically only 4 different models:
(A) 1st generation razor: Made in the mid-late 1930s. The razor didn’t really change during production except that early ones (1936) had non-winged centerbars (this early model sometimes called the “Pre-#15”) and were silver plated. Later (1938) the centerbar was changed and the razor was rhodium plated (a gold razor in the #19 set, though). Early 1st generations had patent no 400.621 on the baseplate, later ones with 430.030 on the baseplate. Some with engravings on the handle, some not (model year variations?). Distinguishing feature: The only open comb of the 4 family generations, and with a thicker handle than the same-era Gillette Popular.
(B) 2nd generation razor: Made in the late 1940s: solid bar, baseplate 430.030. Came in rhodium and possibly gold. Distinguishing feature: Two broad non-knurled bands at each end of the handle (above the TTO knob).
(C) 3rd generation razor: Made in the late 1940s/early 1950s, solid bar, baseplate 430.030, rhodium or gold plating. Distinguishing feature: The heaviest razor of the generations at 82 grams, 5-10 grams heavier than the others.
(D) 4th generation razor: Made in the 1950s (1953-58ish), solid bar, rhodium or gold plating. Distinguishing feature: diamond pressed baseplate; actually the same head as on the same-era Gillette Rockets.
So razor model-wise a very limited number of variations.
The plot thickens... Those confusing set combinations and numbers!
To put it short: The often mentioned #’s only refer to full sets, i.e. a razor coupled with a certain case. So without a case the razor has no #, but can only be called by its generation.
All 4 razor generations came in a bunch of different set combinations with various cases. We don’t even know for sure all the sets/combos made, but we know that each of them typically were coined with a number, e.g. “The #15 set”. And adding to the confusion the same set number and case design over time could include various generations of razors. And it seems in general that Gillette often mixed sets up in order to use up old stocks of particular parts.
On top of these unknowns we even lack historic first hand source information on the overall story of how it came to be that the British Gillette organization for a long period of time from the 1930s through to 1960 took a different design route than the US mother company. I guess the world was less globally standardized in the good old days.
Gillette’s UK factory at Gillette Corner, Great West Road, Isleworth, Middlesex. Inaugurated in 1937 and in operation until 2006, when Gillette moved all production to Poland (photos from 1974, Googleearth photo from 2019, drawing of building layout courtesy of mr-razor
Quote from the Aberdeen Press & Journal, 07 January 1937: “The new factory is capable of turning out one and a half million safety razor blades per day and 25,000 razors. The factory will supply fifty miles of blade edge each day, one half of which will be exported, and the other sold in Great Britain. Japan is one of the firm's best customers, supplying one of the largest markets for Gillette razors and razor blades.”
My razors
My plan was initially to acquire just 4 rhodium razors, one from each generation. But as you can see I have strayed a wee bit from that decision, haha - mainly because I fell in love with the case designs also.
Lastly - a huge disclaimer on all Gillette/Aristocrat info listed above/below: There are quite a few MUCH more knowledgable experts on British Aristocrats who will be reading this, so I really hope they will pitch in to comment and to correct any mistakes I have made. I’ve done this write-up to the best of my current knowledge but I am sure that errors have been made and that much more info can be added on top. Thanks upfront guys!
But enough said already, here goes. I hope you enjoy the photos and the razor backstories, some of which I have shared partly in various earlier threads.
Gillette Aristocrat 1st generation sets
I waited long to try these gorgeous open comb as I feared they would be too aggressive for me. They are not! They are wonderful and smooth, even if they have a reputation of being very individual shavers. Probably due to time and individual level of use each specimen shaves a bit different, some milder and others more aggressively. All mine are mild shavers though, my favorite OC. The beautiful thick teeth make them shave like a solid bar razor. To me quite frankly the best looking razor model ever made by any company, bar none, and one of the finest shavers also.
The 1936 Pre-#15 sets with non-winged centerbar and silver plating
I show these very first production runs in three guises: (1) The ‘British’ standard version, (2) the special French version made for the French market. This version is quite unique with the special ‘Importé D’Angleterre imprint in the case lid and similar engraving on the razor handle. The UK Gillette business in the 1930s offered quite a few of these specially branded French market versions, other examples are Techs, the RFB #77, and the Populars as well (as seen below).
And then there is this fascinating bespoke version: 1936 Gillette Aristocrat 1st gen #15 set, silver razor in all sterling silver bespoke case, made 1936 by W.J. Myatt & Co., Birmingham, UK (“pre-#15” set, non-winged):
This remarkable set contains a 1936 pre-#15 1st gen Aristocrat razor in all-silver plating. But even more importantly the razor comes housed in a unique bespoke all sterling silver case with markings stating that it was made in Birmingham 1936 by company W.J. Myatt & Co. Even the blade holder is sterling silver plated(!). On the outside the case is truly remarkable and detailed, while the insides are a bit more plain with simple all-brown clothing. It would be safe to assume that the razor was originally delivered to its proud owner in this very case.
1938 Gillette Aristocrat 1st generation #15 OC
Here shown in 3 versions all holding the winged rhodium plated razor: the British version with all-block letter imprint, another with diamond logo imprint, and then a French version, Importé D’Angleterre.
The first set in the picture was acquired one of the European bays. The second set was aquired in Germany and came with a German language manual. The French set came as a full original set from a seller in Spain, and even came with the nice small partly French language manual. Marked 400.621 on the baseplate indicating that it is a earlier/mid-1930s production year.
1938 Gillette Aristocrat 1st generation #15 OC set, rhodium
This set combination supposedly was made for the Australian market with the bright red cloth interior of the case. Visually the razor is similar to my other #15 OC with no engravings on the handle and with 430.030 on the baseplate.
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