I agree I found that a more shallow angle/riding the cap made the SC come alive for a great shaving experience.
2-Month Check-In - Tugging
- Thread starter Altonius
- Start date
Had the same issue when I was early on. The solution for me was paying attention to pressure. Trying different settings on the fatboy may help. I find that I door poorly trying to go against the grain. Opposing across the grain passes get met the shave I want. I have found that most of the problems that I have had boil down to technique. Keep working at it and paying attention. I have found that an alum block really helps to point out where you need to be more careful.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks, Chesty. Pressure is really tricky. I have the same spot on both sides of my neck I can't seem to cut on the first pass. Going over a second/third time helps (yes, I'm cheating), but that's probably what causes the irritation. Alum block always stings here. The issue has to by my grip and angle.
Based on the time you've been shaving and your statement that you shave every second or third day, you've shaved somewhere between 20 and 30 times. It seems like you've changed your approach every single time.
Tugging is always caused by either too steep a blade angle or poor preparation. It sounds like your preparation is good.
It's time to solidify your technique for a while so you can learn what to change.
Tugging is always caused by either too steep a blade angle or poor preparation. It sounds like your preparation is good.
It's time to solidify your technique for a while so you can learn what to change.
- For the next 50 shaves, focus on riding the top cap. This will keep the blade angle shallow. Do this even if you use an aggressive razor.
- Forget about BBS. DFS is good enough for the first year or so.
- Use a light touch.
- Use short strokes when you need to in order to keep riding the top plate.
- Do not change the blade at the first hint of trouble. Most problems are shaver induced, not blade induced. If you have a bad shave, go one more day on the blade to see if the same problem is repeated. If not, continue using the same blade.
- Shave every day without irritation. This will require a light touch and riding the top cap.
- Keep a log
- Come back and thank me for the hints.
- Thread starter
- #25
Gary, you have a good point about consistency, and I will stop trying different things weekly. Maybe daily practice is what I need. Will be updating this thread again incouple weeks.
I was peeling rinds off lemons and oranges yesterday. The peeler started working significantly better when I used less pressure. My mind immediately correlated this with shaving haha.
Happy Thanksgiving!
I was peeling rinds off lemons and oranges yesterday. The peeler started working significantly better when I used less pressure. My mind immediately correlated this with shaving haha.
Happy Thanksgiving!
I notice you want to go to sharper blades. You also mention an aggressive setting of 5 on your adjustable. These are both manly sounding goals. I prefer the terms precision and sloppy instead of mild and aggressive razors. Except for special cases of tough beards, probably 95% of the population can shave with a mild razor or an adjustable set at two and a reasonably sharp blade such as your Astra SP. If this wasn't true, Gillette Techs wouldn't have been so popular.
To keep it simple, the major difference between a mild and aggressive razor is the gap. That's the space below the blade and above the safety bar. The only reason I can think of to make this gap bigger is to allow several days of growth mixed with soap to flow through the gap without clogging it. The optimum angle to shave is still attained while riding the top cap. The other reason for a big gap is so those people who don't keep the top cap on their skin can cut their faces easier, which increases sales of styptic pencils. (I don't own one). This was a bit of a simplification which will bring some howls of protest, but it's close enough for now.
I think you might do best if you stick with your mildest razor, Astra SP blades, and Williams or Proraso soap for the next 100 shaves or so. I wouldn't worry about ATG passes. In fact, I suggest learning how to do a single pass DFS shave with some touchup.
To keep it simple, the major difference between a mild and aggressive razor is the gap. That's the space below the blade and above the safety bar. The only reason I can think of to make this gap bigger is to allow several days of growth mixed with soap to flow through the gap without clogging it. The optimum angle to shave is still attained while riding the top cap. The other reason for a big gap is so those people who don't keep the top cap on their skin can cut their faces easier, which increases sales of styptic pencils. (I don't own one). This was a bit of a simplification which will bring some howls of protest, but it's close enough for now.
I think you might do best if you stick with your mildest razor, Astra SP blades, and Williams or Proraso soap for the next 100 shaves or so. I wouldn't worry about ATG passes. In fact, I suggest learning how to do a single pass DFS shave with some touchup.
If you really want to practice, get some peaches and your DE razor and try to shave off the peach fuzz without removing the peal.
@Altonius , relax and enjoy, it is technique and it will improve. After 40 years of horrible electric shaves I started wet shaving January this year.
So your experiences with irritation are very fresh to me. I too, have hollows on either side of my neck that I call "the spot" that every single time I got them clean shaven, it came with major irritation.
Then I got an NSC like @Invicta mentioned in a PIF, and paired with a Astra SP that already had 5 shaves on it, and magic happened. The "spots" were clean and I had no irritation. And this was 2 WTG passes.
Your New Improved 1921 open comb should give you similar results, but the real beauty of the NSC is that it gives the blade more support than any other Gillette DE, and every cap that came with a Tech will fit. If you prefer a straight bar razor the Gillette Super Speeds are also fine razors that handle ATG shaving well.
If you can't find an NSC, pretty much any open comb razor will do, I absolutely love my Fatip Piccolo.
And yes, a straight razor is very capable getting into those hollows if you are brave enough. I would suggest a Feather SS Artist Club Pro with ProGuard blades if you want to go that route.
What I have noticed with my improving technique is that blades that I would toss in the bin after 2-4 shaves now last me 10 or more. My first Gillette Platinum lasted me 27 shaves and has become my go-to blade. I rarely even mention irritation in my notes these days, where 3 months ago I was rating how much irritation I had.
Much as you when I first started wet shaving I would change my set-up almost daily trying to chase a BBS. Unless you are Fred Flinstone no one but you will notice the difference between a Socially Acceptable Shave and a Damn Fine Shave. Sometimes an SAS is the way to go.
Also using sample packs of blades might seem to be a little more expensive than buying blades in bulk, but it will keep you from getting hundreds of blades you no longer want to use........YMMV
I hope all of this helps, just remember to take notes an enjoy yourself!
So your experiences with irritation are very fresh to me. I too, have hollows on either side of my neck that I call "the spot" that every single time I got them clean shaven, it came with major irritation.
Then I got an NSC like @Invicta mentioned in a PIF, and paired with a Astra SP that already had 5 shaves on it, and magic happened. The "spots" were clean and I had no irritation. And this was 2 WTG passes.
Your New Improved 1921 open comb should give you similar results, but the real beauty of the NSC is that it gives the blade more support than any other Gillette DE, and every cap that came with a Tech will fit. If you prefer a straight bar razor the Gillette Super Speeds are also fine razors that handle ATG shaving well.
If you can't find an NSC, pretty much any open comb razor will do, I absolutely love my Fatip Piccolo.
And yes, a straight razor is very capable getting into those hollows if you are brave enough. I would suggest a Feather SS Artist Club Pro with ProGuard blades if you want to go that route.
What I have noticed with my improving technique is that blades that I would toss in the bin after 2-4 shaves now last me 10 or more. My first Gillette Platinum lasted me 27 shaves and has become my go-to blade. I rarely even mention irritation in my notes these days, where 3 months ago I was rating how much irritation I had.
Much as you when I first started wet shaving I would change my set-up almost daily trying to chase a BBS. Unless you are Fred Flinstone no one but you will notice the difference between a Socially Acceptable Shave and a Damn Fine Shave. Sometimes an SAS is the way to go.
Also using sample packs of blades might seem to be a little more expensive than buying blades in bulk, but it will keep you from getting hundreds of blades you no longer want to use........YMMV
I hope all of this helps, just remember to take notes an enjoy yourself!
- Thread starter
- #29
This morning was like magic! Prep and lather per usual. I dialed my Fatboy from 5-7 to a 3. The higher aggression was for more efficient shaves. Today I found out I didn’t need that. A Feather blade particularly works better on the lower setting.
The main focuses were riding the cap, short strokes, no pressure, and skin stretching. I achieved my first comfortable third pass (diagonal grain) with no tugging or irritation!!!!!!!!! All in the technique, baby!
The main focuses were riding the cap, short strokes, no pressure, and skin stretching. I achieved my first comfortable third pass (diagonal grain) with no tugging or irritation!!!!!!!!! All in the technique, baby!
Congrats on a great shave!!!
One of the beautiful things about this type of shaving is that you can start your day with an opportunity to improve a little every day. Lather, technique, tool selection, blade options and other variables give many chances to change. There is an old joke that the difference between a bad haircut and a good haircut is two weeks. For a shave it is 24 hours. I still get a kick out of a nice lather, a shave that feels right, and a few passes with an alum block that confirm it. Splash or balm finishes it up and I am good to go until the next day. Keep at it and enjoy - even the less good ones.
- Thread starter
- #32
I wanted to wrap up this thread with the solution to my problem. Been sticking to my Gillette Fatboy on setting 5 as I work through a sharp blade sampler, using one type of blade until I’ve used all its samples. I can tell pressure and angle has been improving with less missed spots with better cutting efficiency. Now shaving 5-6 times per week to increase practice and comfort. My lather slickness has become consistent by sticking with Proraso green. It used to leave my face dry before I added a little more water to the mix.
I always used Cetaphil face wash. My wife got me a glycerin based face wash for Christmas. This changed everything as it immensely softened my whiskers. All of a sudden first pass has more noticeable results and cross-grain pass two glides effortlessly. There are still a couple small tricky spots on my neck which I’ll figure out over time. May be a good opportunity now to try smoother blades I previously had bad irritation with.
To sum it up: wet shaving is an ever growing learning curve. I look forward to trying different products as I become more confident in my technique. It’s ok to go back to retry from square one. You never know what you’ll find out.
PS: Scored my grandfather’s Schick Eversharp injector from the late 40’s. Nothing a little soapy water couldn’t clean up. The new Schick blades are superbly sharp and makes for a fun weekend razor.
I always used Cetaphil face wash. My wife got me a glycerin based face wash for Christmas. This changed everything as it immensely softened my whiskers. All of a sudden first pass has more noticeable results and cross-grain pass two glides effortlessly. There are still a couple small tricky spots on my neck which I’ll figure out over time. May be a good opportunity now to try smoother blades I previously had bad irritation with.
To sum it up: wet shaving is an ever growing learning curve. I look forward to trying different products as I become more confident in my technique. It’s ok to go back to retry from square one. You never know what you’ll find out.
PS: Scored my grandfather’s Schick Eversharp injector from the late 40’s. Nothing a little soapy water couldn’t clean up. The new Schick blades are superbly sharp and makes for a fun weekend razor.
I’ve never had an issue with irritation because I’ve always wet shaved but my friend uses hair conditioner on his face in the shower and he swears by it.
Before shaving, I shower and use shampoo and conditioner on both my head and my facial hair. My beard is left clean and hydrated and slightly slick. I think my shave goes much better that way.
Chandu
I Waxed The Badger.
Test a small area of ATG with ONLY water rather than soap when you'd normally do your ATG pass. One of my razors does better with very thing or no lather at all when going ATG on my neck. Must be dripping wet, wet though.
I presume though that you have used a good soap for previous passes. If that is the case, application of water may activate the residual soap on your face to provide sufficient slickness to shave. I do use buffing strokes with no visible lather on my face during my clean-up pass, but only with excellent quality soaps.
I see you have a nice open comb vintage; my 5 cent advice:
use that razor with the gillette blades.
make your lather a bit more runny, not like cake frosting.....runnier is better as you get better glide and that is what helps with your blade vs skin resistance....
I use blades 3-4 times...and out....
One last thing: neck is tricky, maybe try at #3 w fat there and maybe the sharper blade helps..... and sometimes: it's better to have some stubble left than reaching the venerable BBS.
use that razor with the gillette blades.
make your lather a bit more runny, not like cake frosting.....runnier is better as you get better glide and that is what helps with your blade vs skin resistance....
I use blades 3-4 times...and out....
One last thing: neck is tricky, maybe try at #3 w fat there and maybe the sharper blade helps..... and sometimes: it's better to have some stubble left than reaching the venerable BBS.
Chandu
I Waxed The Badger.
I’ve done it with just water or witch hazel AFTER completely rinsing all soap off. A light touch and enough wetness and things glide just fine. No top notch soap residue required. I picked this up from an online shaver that always does a final pass with witch hazel. With no lather to dampen the noise of the blade you can really here when it’s cutting.
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