What's new

1975 Black Beauty

The Beauty Has Arrived and it is exactly as described in the auction. Not perfect by any means but certainly not abused either. I gave it a long soak in some CLR and then a really good soft toothbrush cleaning with some dish soap and water. Hit the head doors and safety bars with some Mothers Aluminum polish and it looks GREAT now from top to bottom. All mechanics work pretty darn good too. Cycled it through all adjustments and such while in the, (Highly Diluted), CLR mixture and here is the result:

$20150620_114724.jpg$20150620_114704.jpg$20150620_114650.jpg$20150620_114603.jpg$20150620_114528.jpg

As you can see the Numbers do need a little touch up of paint and perhaps a couple extremely small white marks on the handle but other than that I think it looks awesome for a 39 year old razor that only set me back 24 bucks and change.

Can't wait to shave with it tonight :w00t::w00t::w00t:
Nate
 
Well I must say.... I am impressed with this beauty. Great feel and extremely light in the handle yet long enough handle to fit my Giant Mitts. I have to say it has a very sleek head design and I used it on setting 6 of 9 so pretty aggressive shave, right on par with my Futur on setting 4 for aggression. Really smooth slide action though, that is for darned sure.

I Really Like It and will be using it a lot.
Nate
 
Gotta love the old adjustable!!!

Heck Yeah, now I gotta get ahold of a Slim from the 60's for less than a Mortgage LOL. I already have a line on a beautiful 1930's Short Comb NEW. I may get a Fatboy too but I know the Slim and NEW are the last two to make the full set of what my Grandfather had. The 70's Super was the first I could afford and it is down right awesome for sure:w00t:
 
Heck Yeah, now I gotta get ahold of a Slim from the 60's for less than a Mortgage LOL. I already have a line on a beautiful 1930's Short Comb NEW. I may get a Fatboy too but I know the Slim and NEW are the last two to make the full set of what my Grandfather had. The 70's Super was the first I could afford and it is down right awesome for sure:w00t:

Slims are not hard to come by on the bay for 35-50.
I too am keeping an eye out for a fatbotly but won't spend what people are asking lol
 
Slims are not hard to come by on the bay for 35-50.
I too am keeping an eye out for a fatbotly but won't spend what people are asking lol

I agree 100% there, I may spend the Uber Coin if it is Brand New and never used but I am not paying a huge sum of cash for a beat down used razor as many of the ones I have seen are. Many of them have all kinds of wear on them and unless it is in Pristine condition I am never going to pay that much for a Fatboy. A decent slim will be mine soon after the first though for sure, along with the SC NEW as well. Those two are a definite purchases very soon.
 
Nice score on the Black Beauty. Don't know if you've done it before but the numbers are pretty easy to touch up.
 
Nice score on the Black Beauty. Don't know if you've done it before but the numbers are pretty easy to touch up.
Thank you very very much;
As a matter of fact I have not as this is my very first classic razor. I was wondering what sort of paint I should use to do it with as it seems it would have to be some kind of enamel or hard when dry, waterproof type of paint in order for it to last at all.
 
DO NOT USE CLR!! It can possibly damage the plating. As others have said already, use Dawn dish soap and soak it and brush it with an old soft toothbrush. Twist the adjustment ring with the silo doors open. If you twist the adjustment ring with the doors closed there is a chance of stripping the adjustment mechanism. Once the doors are closed turn the knob an additional quarter turn to lock it down. If the TTO knob and adjustment ring are a little hard to operate, you can use mineral oil which is vegetable based to lubricate the mechanisms. Don't use petroleum based oils as these can damage the plating. I followed these steps for all of my adjustables and had good results. Congrats on your score! You'll like your new razor.
 
DO NOT USE CLR!! It can possibly damage the plating. As others have said already, use Dawn dish soap and soak it and brush it with an old soft toothbrush. Twist the adjustment ring with the silo doors open. If you twist the adjustment ring with the doors closed there is a chance of stripping the adjustment mechanism. Once the doors are closed turn the knob an additional quarter turn to lock it down. If the TTO knob and adjustment ring are a little hard to operate, you can use mineral oil which is vegetable based to lubricate the mechanisms. Don't use petroleum based oils as these can damage the plating. I followed these steps for all of my adjustables and had good results. Congrats on your score! You'll like your new razor.

That is very good to know about the silo doors being opened before adjusting, I did it tonight with them close but I will make sure to keep them open when adjusting from now on. I only used the CLR this one time in order to completely clean any deposits off the inner workings and will only use dish soap from now on as long as I own it. I also used a very gentle polish on the doors and sides but the inside was pretty much pristine and thankfully all of the plating throughout is fully in tact. The only real cosmetic flaws are the paint wear on the handle and the numbers which I will fix as soon as I figure out which type of paint I should use to restore them to new condition,

Luckily I did score a very smoothly operating razor in this one, the adjustment dial AND TTO mechanisms both work flawlessly, I did notice the extra 1/4 turn to lock down the doors snugly which I actually kind of like. it lets me know it is secure that way so there is no question about slipping blades.

Sincerely;
Nate
 
I was wondering what sort of paint I should use to do it with as it seems it would have to be some kind of enamel or hard when dry, waterproof type of paint in order for it to last at all.

I use Testors black enamel but any black enamel will do.
Blob over numbers and dots. Then wipe the ring off with a rag. The paint should settle and remain in the depressions.
 
I use Testors black enamel but any black enamel will do.
Blob over numbers and dots. Then wipe the ring off with a rag. The paint should settle and remain in the depressions.

Testors is model paint if I remember correctly... I'm gonna repaint all my numbers lol.
 
I use Testors black enamel but any black enamel will do.
Blob over numbers and dots. Then wipe the ring off with a rag. The paint should settle and remain in the depressions.

Excellent Idea!! Enamel Model Paint does dry very hard so that would be perfect :thumbup: Thank you very much.
 
I might paint mine red..... Lol
Edit: on my slim.
Also, I'm considering having the handle on my SA cerakoted in a different color.... Like red. Lol

I am getting ready to go to the Hobby shop for some black enamel hard pain. I have already trimmed a brush down to 3 bristles in order to be more detailed with it when painting the numbers back in in order to ensure maximum coverage in the indentations. By the time I am done those numbers will be as good as new.

I have though about doing the Cerakote route because I have had several things that were cerakoted and they last forever, that stuff is hard as nails.
 
Top Bottom