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1905 Shaving Guide: Shaving made easy; what the man who shaves ought to know ... (From Library of Congress)

Stumbled onto this publication from 1905 titled "Shaving made easy; what the man who shaves ought to know ..." that is in the Library of Congress. (Links below)

Interesting piece of history that covers all aspects of shaving as known then. Some takeaways:
  • This is pre-DE so it only covers straight razors with lots of details on shaving approach. Found it interesting that this DIY shaving manual was published back then when many went to a barber for their shave.
  • Presumption that the only other equipment (beyond strops & hones for the straight razor) used was a brush, cup and shaving soap to generate lather as shaving cream (in a tube) was not invented until 1919 by an MIT professor.
  • No recommended pre-shave actions prior to application of the lather. This is likely due to the perspective then that the purpose of the lather was to stiffen the beard, not soften it as we do today (see quote below)
  • This manual recommends that the hard puck is bloomed in water for a few seconds before the brush is used to create lather directly on the puck in the shaving cup. As we've learned at B&B there is emphasis on getting the water soap ration correct.
  • After applying lather with the brush the manual instructs that fingers be used to work the lather into the beard followed by another once-over with the brush
  • Lots of emphasis on care of the face post-shave including options such as a hot towel after washing all lather from the face, application of witch hazel and a face massage. Wonder if the purpose of this was minimize risk of infection from straight razor cuts (instructions for care of cuts are also included)? This is the opposite of the cold water rinse we often use today.
  • Focus was on a one or two pass shave only as follows: "If you desire a really clean shave, you must go over the face the second time. Strop the razor a few times before beginning. Lather the face as before, though it is unnecessary to rub the lather in with the fingers. Simply put it on with the brush."

One odd perspective in the manual is that the purpose of the soap is to stiffen, not soften, the beard. "A wrong idea prevails regarding the use of the soap. The popular impression is that the soap is used for the purpose of softening the beard, in which condition it is supposed to be most easily cut. This is a mistake. The soap is used, not to soften the beard, but to produce exactly the opposite effect—namely, to make the hair stiff and brittle, so that they will present a firm and resisting surface to the razor."[Pg 51] Never heard of this perspective before as it's contrary to all of the more recent research that is out there. Wonder what the basis was?

The straight razor shaving tips may be of use to those who use one. Definitely an interesting read to understand shaving from almost 120 years ago. Enjoy!

Library of Congress link (allows for a pdf download):
Shaving made easy; what the man who shaves ought to know ... - https://www.loc.gov/item/06005154/

Project Gutenberg link for easy web viewing:
 
Just noticed this quote in the booklet "The mirror should hang between two windows if possible, so that when you look into it the light will fall directly upon both sides of your face. You will then be able to get a good reflection of either side. ."[Pg 60]

Thought it was odd until realizing that the majority of homes did not have electricity back in 1905. While it was available in some cities less than half the country had electricity until 1925. Without electric lighting it was good advice, when shaving with a straight razor, to do it when and where one had good daylight illumination.
 
Just noticed this quote in the booklet "The mirror should hang between two windows if possible, so that when you look into it the light will fall directly upon both sides of your face. You will then be able to get a good reflection of either side. ."[Pg 60]

Thought it was odd until realizing that the majority of homes did not have electricity back in 1905. While it was available in some cities less than half the country had electricity until 1925. Without electric lighting it was good advice, when shaving with a straight razor, to do it when and where one had good daylight illumination.

Also, you have to realize there's no basin there
unless you put one there on a small table.
And definitely no faucet within reach.

Don't forget to unbutton your collar!

:)
 
A firm and resisting (not to mention brittle) surface would be easier to cut for a less-sharp blade.

On the other hand, for generations it was believed that the fluffier and billowier the sails on a ship, the more wind they would catch and the faster they would go.

The problem with being wrong is that it feels an awful lot like being right at the time it happens.
 
A firm and resisting (not to mention brittle) surface would be easier to cut for a less-sharp blade.

On the other hand, for generations it was believed that the fluffier and billowier the sails on a ship, the more wind they would catch and the faster they would go.

The problem with being wrong is that it feels an awful lot like being right at the time it happens.
Agree and what was interesting with the statement, that shave soap is meant to make hair stiff and brittle, is that the author was acknowledging even then that this perspective was contrary to popular opinion. Still wondering if there was some basis to this based on the state of hygiene and recommended process in this pamphlet?

The author goes on to say that prior to shaving the hair is full of natural oils that make it soft and limp. Given that the daily shower/bath was not standard procedure 120 years ago and this recommended shaving process had almost no pre-shave prep the shaving soap lather would have had the dual duty of both cleaning the face/whiskers and facilitating the shaving process. In 1905 this could have led the author to his/her hypothesis that we know is incorrect based on current research.

I looked for any research on the topic and found some that indicated that removing oils from hair can make it stiffer (articles focused on shampooing hair we do not shave too often). Sounds like the author may have just run with this ignoring or not knowing that the soap lather also moisturizes the hair with effect of softening the hairs keratin to a far greater extent than any contrary effect from removing natural oils. Recall some research that effectively moistened hair is as much as 70% easier to cut than it is when dry.
 
Agree and what was interesting with the statement, that shave soap is meant to make hair stiff and brittle, is that the author was acknowledging even then that this perspective was contrary to popular opinion. Still wondering if there was some basis to this based on the state of hygiene and recommended process in this pamphlet?

The author goes on to say that prior to shaving the hair is full of natural oils that make it soft and limp. Given that the daily shower/bath was not standard procedure 120 years ago and this recommended shaving process had almost no pre-shave prep the shaving soap lather would have had the dual duty of both cleaning the face/whiskers and facilitating the shaving process. In 1905 this could have led the author to his/her hypothesis that we know is incorrect based on current research.

I looked for any research on the topic and found some that indicated that removing oils from hair can make it stiffer (articles focused on shampooing hair we do not shave too often). Sounds like the author may have just run with this ignoring or not knowing that the soap lather also moisturizes the hair with effect of softening the hairs keratin to a far greater extent than any contrary effect from removing natural oils. Recall some research that effectively moistened hair is as much as 70% easier to cut than it is when dry.
Something else to consider: difference in soaps?

Older soaps may have had a higher concentration of lye, which could make hair brittle, being highly alkaline. I've seen cautions for using baking soda as shampoo, as it can have a similar effect if one is not careful. Lye is more alkaline than baking soda.

While softened hair is easier to cut than normal hair, how would alkalized hair fare? Does this have any relation to electric razor prep powder? Does that make the hair more brittle? I want to know.
 
Here's a page from a The J.B. Williams Company shaving guide published in 1904. They claim that their soap softens the hair.
IMG_3165 (2).JPG
 
Interesting read. Two things stood out for me:
  • Shaving while dressed!
  • Rubbing the lather in with your fingers after you use the brush.
 
Here's a page from a The J.B. Williams Company shaving guide published in 1904. They claim that their soap softens the hair.View attachment 1557098
Very nice, thank you for posting! Do you have the ability to scan and post the entire guide? Suspect our fellow B&Bers would find it interesting.

Suspect that during the era these were published that there was little if any science based analysis/research on the topic of shaving with the result that publications were based on the opinions and beliefs of the authors. Often in alignment with marketing objectives for information provided by product manufacturers. Williams guide nicely aligns lathering objectives with the features/benefits of its shaving soap, specifically "thick, moist and creamy" lather. Note both the 1905 and Williams guides both acknowledge that an objective is to get the beard hairs to stand up. Have not found any info on who originally authored or produced the 1905 guide beyond a reference to a correspondence school in the Library of Congress listing.

We now know, from actual research, that the lather also softens the beard by moisturizing it. Recall that a moistened hair requires roughly 70% less effort to cut than a dry one.
 
Very nice, thank you for posting! Do you have the ability to scan and post the entire guide? Suspect our fellow B&Bers would find it interesting.

Suspect that during the era these were published that there was little if any science based analysis/research on the topic of shaving with the result that publications were based on the opinions and beliefs of the authors. Often in alignment with marketing objectives for information provided by product manufacturers. Williams guide nicely aligns lathering objectives with the features/benefits of its shaving soap, specifically "thick, moist and creamy" lather. Note both the 1905 and Williams guides both acknowledge that an objective is to get the beard hairs to stand up. Have not found any info on who originally authored or produced the 1905 guide beyond a reference to a correspondence school in the Library of Congress listing.

We now know, from actual research, that the lather also softens the beard by moisturizing it. Recall that a moistened hair requires roughly 70% less effort to cut than a dry one.
You are very welcome, sir. I'll take some more photos tomorrow and post them. Meanwhile, here are two more.
IMG_3166 (2).JPG
IMG_3167 (2).JPG
 
Thank you very much @Lane101 for posting this information. It was a very interesting read. Here are the rest of the pages from the Williams booklet. View attachment 1557513View attachment 1557514View attachment 1557515View attachment 1557516View attachment 1557517View attachment 1557518
Thank you, these are excellent. Nice complement to the 1905 shaving guide. Like how they added a fine dressing guide. Also, given the fine men's dressing guide (suit and tie) this appears to be targeted to more upscale and professional men.

Guessing that this more upscale target audience was more likely to both own their own razor and to shave on a frequent/daily basis. Recall reading somewhere that those who were less well heeled may have shaved far less frequently, say once a week, and likely did not own their equipment so went to the barber for a shave. Also as this was still pre-safety razor many preferred to have a barber vs at-home shaves. That many of the Williams catalog items above were targeted toward professional barbers supports this.

Prices are interesting given that a U.S. dollar in 1904 is the same as $33 today. The 5 cent mug shaving soap would be the equivalent of $1.65 today. Not that different from the actual in-store pricing range for Williams Mug right before it was discontinued.

The the floating bath soap, that sounds like an Ivory knock off (that Williams earlier sold to P&G) at the same price or $1.65 today is a lot higher than the roughly 50 cents a bar we see today in multi-packs.

Average weekly U.S. wage than was around $13 versus around $1,050 today so even after inflation we can afford many more standard bars of soap today than in 1904.
 
I'm sure you're right about the target audience being more affluent than the average shaver. The one thing that really stood out for me was this sentence - "The up-to-date man shaves and has his cold water bath every morning." A cold water bath every morning. Yikes!🥶

Interesting about the bath soap being so much more expensive than it is today. I've attached a photo of some of that very expensive soap (Jersey Cream), which I am confident would still lather up just fine, even though it is over a hundred years old.
IMG_3183 (3).JPG
 
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