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1826-1856 James Barlow & Sons Straight Razor

I just received in the mail from eBay for $25.49, a razor that says on the tang,"JAMES BARLOW & SONS MANUFACTURES SHEFFIELD ECHO"
I did a little research and found out the company existed from 1826 - 1856. Scratched ever so lightly with what I think may have been a pin or a needle, maybe 1 or 2 thousandth's deep, is "Shippy" possibly the guy's last name and the letter & number, S3 designating his rank in the USMC it means Squadron Operations Officer. Since the scratch marks are so shallow, I want to leave them there because, 1-Patriotism, and 2- It's nostalgic and cool. They can always be removed later if another owner wants anyway. I think the soldier :tank:was on a ship, possibly in WW-1, maybe 2. Since then, because it's in so good a shape, it probably has been in a drawer somewhere. It may have even been stored during the Civil War also. The only other history I have is that about 30 years ago it was acquired by the man who sold it to me, from the widow of a watchmaker.
It's cool to know a little history on an old razor.
I want to restore that old razor and the questions I have are: The blade, even though it is 11/16" is slightly deviated from the original curve that follows the spline in the middle by about 0.017" or less. By the way, it came almost shave ready! all I did was strope it on a flat piece of leather on a table, looked at it under a glass that's about twice the magnification of a "loop" and it was close to being a mirror, just as sharp, if not sharper than a store razor.(Leather & rouge, then a flat piece of paper on top of the leather, rolling the blade in and touching the edge to the paper, then before stopping, pick the edge off the paper, then stop) I'm not sure whether I should straighten the blade out, or leave it alone and just polish the imperfections out of it. Whatever is best for the value of the razor.
The translucent horn scales are in really good shape for being about 180 years old. Several small nicks to fix and a little polish is all they need. I was thinking about taking the hinge brass pin out and clean & polish the inside of the scales too. The nicks will have to be filled as I don't believe in making the scales smaller. 1st, drill shallow holes in the nicks with a drill bit a few thousandth's thick by hand, mix several different colors of powdered water color paint till I get a match, then mix with super glue, trying it on a test piece 1st, and spray an accelerator on it. The drilled holes make the mechanical bond, and super glue makes an adhesive bond. 2 bonds instead of just 1 adhesive bond. And hope it is still translucent. Super glue will polish up like plexiglass and the water color powder tints it. The only drawback is that acetone will attack it. (can't clean it with acetone!)
Any advice? Especially on whether to straighten out the less than 0.017" deviation on the blade? Also, are there any better ways to fill the small nicks on the horn? (Epoxy's out, it won't stick that well.) I wonder if the scales are buffalo?
Or should I do nothing at all and just have fun shaving with it sometimes?
Thanks,
Z
 

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Honestly, I wouldnt bother with all that hassle for those old scales. The little chips out of them are part of its character.

That slight deviation is fine, trying to straighten then blade will do more harm than good.
 
I'm not sure if there is much you can do with old horn scales. They become very delicate and fragile with time. I would polish up the blade with Maas polish (Maass is safe and won't deviate the blade ) then hone it up. The deviation in the blade or "smile" is common with old razors and can be shaved, but the desired outcome would be to hone it out and make the blade straight.
 
As mentioned above, old horn scales dry out and become fragile. If you are going to do ANYTHING to them, I'd suggest first putting them in either mineral oil or neatsfoot oil for a week or so.
 
I don't agree that the desired outcome is to make the edge straight. I think take a bit off the shoulder and point edge and you'll have the symmetry that is closer to original.

This things been honed from a slight smile to no smile and that makes me sad. But you also need to understand my style is different than some folks. I like a parallel spine and edge, some don't. Maybe print a couple pics of the razor and use a pencil to reprofilecand see if you like the shape.

Like above, it's probably not worth changing if you are getting great shaves, but if the difference bothers you…
 
Thanks for the responses, I'm new to this forum, but am on several others:
I build telescopes, this ones worth about 6 or 7 grand:
http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthre...ge/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/all/vc/1
2nd Astronomy Forum:
http://www.astronomyforum.net/atm-d...e-jaegers-103mm-f-15-unique-tripod-mount.html
Restored a Glastron GT150 James Bond boat from "Live and Let Die"
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=9091
There's some others like a '500 HP '79 Z28 which is why I'm "Z28500" but that's enough since this is a straight razor site.
It seems that everyone has a different opinion about what to do with an old blade like that, from doing nothing to bringing back the old shape. Therefore, since I like to do restorations, last night, I honed the blade for a few hours off and on, and got it close to the way it was, following the sway of the "swayback" spline and making the adge smile in the same way. (which is what I meant when I said "straightening out the blade" I didn't pick my words out well causing what I meant to be misunderstood, sorry about that) I don't like the edge to be different than the line of the spline, in fact it bothers me a lot! I DID NOT flatten out the edge and re-hone it, I just removed material by honing the part that needed work, then the whole edge at once. It's real close now with the shoulder and tip being about 6 or 7 thousandth's more than the center. I could get it exact but I will leave it for now since it isn't noticeable. It needs more sanding with 600 sandpaper & polishing although it polished up real nice the way it is now. I've found that 600 works well on old steel, almost shining it without polishing, I use the same method on brass parts I fabricate for telescopes. Also, it's a 21/32" blade now, (1/32" more than 5/8") I also fixed the notches that were in the horn and it worked. You can't really tell, The super glue blended right in. The main reason is that I was afraid that they could get caught on something during use & sharpening, and get worse and that would be unacceptable. I will take some pic's soon.
I also found out that "Shippy" is a last name as much as it could have been a Navy nickname, and that the S3 scratched on the other side means "Squadron Operations Officer USMC" so it probably sat around in a box or drawer during the Civil War & Spanish American War, maybe WW-1 and Shippy used it in WW-2. (my opinion due to the great shape it was in) Then it sat around in a drawer again till 30 years ago when the previous owner before me bought it from the widow of a watchmaker, then he stored it until he sold it to me last week!
Anyway, I consider myself lucky to get that ole thing, what's cool is Col. Travis, Jim Bowie, Davy Crockett could have been alive and well when this thing was made, The great Mormon trail west had not begun, the Civil War hadn't happened yet, Abe Lincoln was a young man when this razor was made! I could go on and on. It's like owning a piece of history. Some old men like me like that kind of stuff I guess. I will post some more pic's real soon as I do a little more work. I wish I had the original box, as the one that came with it is a different brand. Oh well, can't win 'em all!
Z
(I just got a Worcester razor with a heart on it in the mail just now-will post soon)
 
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