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15 months of experimenting

First off, I want to thank everyone that writes helpful posts about their experiences here - it has been invaluable to me. My neck is VERY sensitive and the hair on my neck is coarse and grows in multiple directions in different areas. Since high school I have used Gillette cartridges and was getting razor burn to the point where I would try to shave every third day. Wearing a tie was miserable. In 2012 I tried DE safety razors - a Merkur 34c and then eventually a Progress. I never really spent enough time to master the technique and rotated between those DEs and Gillette cartridges and just shaved every 3rd day as my office for last decade has been casual enough to do so.

In February 2019, aiming to look more professional and knowing I would be changing jobs in the near term, I decided that I was going too find a way to be able to shave every day no matter what it took. I read a ton here and in similar places. I purchased (full size and samples - thanks Maggard Razors and West Coast Shaving) a ton of soaps and creams, aftershave balms, splashes and moisturizers, pre-shave creams and oils and many different razors and blades. I want to share my experience since these forums were helpful and now that I am getting irritation free, near perfect shaves 5x/week, others may find that experience helpful - particularly those with sensitive necks and coarse hair.

Razors: Once I decided to try to master wetshaving I spent a lot of time, 7 months, using DE safety razors with mixed results. I used the Merkur 34c, Progress and 37c Slant Bar, Parker Variant and Rockwell 6c. The Rockwell 6c was head and shoulders above the others and I used it the most, trying to fine tune my technique and preferred blade - which tended to be Astra. I got a lot of good shaves, but also never got consistent irritation free shaves and could still only shave every other day. The aha moment came for me when I read somewhere about DE blades not being as stiff as single edge blades and that created a lot of issues for people with coarse hair such as myself - essentially, the flexible DE blades would catch on hairs, flex a tiny bit and then sort of tug while it cut the hair. I ordered a OneBlade Core for $20 and it was OK - no irritation, but certainly not a totally smooth shave either - not really acceptable to me. I then ordered a vintage Schick M (adjustable) injector razor - it took me one shave to adjust to the new technique and I was getting the best shaves I have ever gotten. I played with different blades, but the razor was a game changer for me - no irritation, none. Some nicks here and there, but nothing bad. I thought I had found as good a shave as I was going to get and worried that these razors are not produced anymore, I quickly got two more "just in case". Well, like so many here, really good was not good enough and I purchased a Supply Single Edge 2 - its a very sturdy, handsome razor and did a great job, but I preferred the Schick M slightly more. Again, I had to keep pushing the envelope and wanted to try the single edge Artist Club style blades to see how much sharper they were. I bought a RazoRock Hawk in aluminum for $30 and a pack of Feather Professional Artist Club blades - that combo gave me even better shaves - perfect shaves! The Artist Club blades took a little adjustment to get used to their length, but they slice right through any hair with zero effort. The Hawk is very mild and was a great way to experience the Artist Club blades. Wanting something with a little more aggressiveness than the Hawk, but still mild, I added a Blackland Vector ($175!!!) to the lineup - I get great shaves with this too. I have since used Kai Captain Mild AC blades and Feather Professional Super blades - the Kai's I found to be a bit too mild and the Feather Professional to be too aggressive. I love the Feather Professionals. I like having both the Hawk and Vector - the Hawk is much more mild - I feel like I can barely cut myself and I use it on days when I am in more of a rush or know I do not want to be super attentive to technique. The Vector is a still a mild razor, but you need to pay attention to technique or you will have some nicks. Any nick I get also seems to stop bleeding quicker than with other blades - I do not know if that is because they are so sharp or what, but it is an observation. Both razors are great, just different...one is $30 and one is $175 (one is also aluminum and always sold out, the other is stainless steel and available). But, overall, the stiffer, single edge razors have been a savior for my neck. If you have coarse hair and irritation, try these single edge blades, particularly the AC style.

I found that soaps and after shave routine, while not as much of a game changer as the single edge razor, have really helped. I tried countless soaps through samples in two different water environments: NYC water (which is soft and about as good as you can get) and harder water at a second home. My favorite soap at both places, by a mile, is Boellis Panama. I find it to be top notch in every category - slickness, residual slickness, cushion and post shave feel. No other soap or cream performed near the top in every category. With the hard water, I found that Saponifico Varesino performed really well. In the soft water, I really liked Grooming Dept soaps. Grooming Dept was pretty close to Boellis in the soft NYC water. But, I think I will be a Boellis guy most of the time. I wont mention other soaps I tried, because I tried a ton, but I found the Boellis to outperform ABC, which is so similar and so much more expensive. When you look at how much soap comes in a bar of Boellis, it is not more expensive than other "Artisan" soaps - you just get more. It is soft, so I just cut off a slice and lightly press it into a container and it form fits that container.

I tried as ton of aftershave splashes (through purchases and samples) - I enjoy experimenting here, so I will keep purchasing more, but the ones I have enjoyed most are Barrister and Mann's Reserve base (Waves being my favorite scent), Phoenix Artisan Accouterments (great face feel, but they burn more than any other - but that only lasts a minute), Caties Bubbles and Chatillon Lux (this stuff is concentrated, so your face really needs to be damp when you apply).

Very recently, I have been putting on an aftershave balm a 10 mins or so after I use a splash. I have not experimented much here, but I am very pleased with Alvarez Gomez's. I like Sterling's as well - but some of the scents are just a tad to strong for me - I have to try the unscented. I decided to try the Alvarez Gomez after really liking their roll-on deodorant - which performs really well and has a great, light smell for a few hours. The aftershave does not seem to have any real scent, but it performs (heals and hydrates) well while being very lightweight.

At night, I have been rubbing two or three drops of pure hyaluronic acid right on my neck and entire face followed by a moisturizer (there are so many good ones, none that I have used make me want to recommend one over the other). I find that is really good prep for the next day - helps skin heal and be moisturized for a shave the next morning.

I hope this helps some people! I used to enjoy experimenting - hoping to find a way to shave daily. Now I just enjoy my daily shave. Thanks to everyone for the info you provided that got me to a place where I can shave everyday!
 
Now the only thing left to do that will still improve your experience is to switch from Feather Professional blades to Schick Proline. Better in every conceivable way.

Thanks for sharing your story. I, too, ended up at AC blades, but I use an open blade razor, the Feather SS.
 
Now the only thing left to do that will still improve your experience is to switch from Feather Professional blades to Schick Proline. Better in every conceivable way.

Thanks for sharing your story. I, too, ended up at AC blades, but I use an open blade razor, the Feather SS.
Thanks Kingfisher...I will place an order to try the Prolines soon!
 
great treatise and super ending!
but your journey has just begun!

tell us about your prep technique!
Thanks Sarimento1 - I don't have a long prep technique, but I should note that I shave in the shower. I have tried shaving in the shower and at the sink, but I get noticeably better shaves in the shower. I do a "navy" shower to save water. I use Lucky Tiger face wash and and I face lather with a Sterling synthetic brush (also a steal!). I think the hyaluronic acid and moisturizer the night before really helps.
 
It's good that everyone can experiment to find out what works best for them but in general I'd say that when people have issues with "sensitive skin" it's a technique issue. If you manage to get the technique right the other stuff is just for fun and personal preference.

Poor technique usually comes from using a cartridge and applying too much pressure just to get the razor to cut. Once you have anything other than a cartridge you don't need to apply any pressure and when you do you will have "sensitive skin". :)
 
Great post, man. I have recently been emphasizing blade rigidity in my posts as I too learned of its importance after years of experimenting with razors. I also have very thick, wire-like stubble; finding the right DE head that clamps down a blade very well was a critical element to achieving great shaves. I am also a big believer in the AC blade format razors. I’ve tried them all, and the ATT SE1 rose to the top of my single SE razor rotation - I sold the rest. As for NYC, I couldn’t agree more that it has perfect water for wet shavers!
My current rotation:
1. Tartara Nodachi
2. R41
3. ATT H1
4. ATT SE1
 
If you have achieved success in 15 months, you have done quite well. I have been shaving for 55 years and I am still experimenting, trying to find an even better shave.
Success here is defined by getting a baby smooth shave without irritation multiple days in a row. Can my shaves get even better? I am sure they can always improve, and I will keep chasing new blades (already ordered the Proline on rec above) and new toys (ordered the new stainless Hawk with the aggressive base plate - the standard plate is sold out and I want to try the more aggressive version - will try to add the standard base plate when it’s available. It’s a disease.)
But I am at a place where I can say “mission accomplished” as I can go to work clean shaven and irritation free every day. That’s a huge win for me!
 
Now the only thing left to do that will still improve your experience is to switch from Feather Professional blades to Schick Proline. Better in every conceivable way.

Thanks for sharing your story. I, too, ended up at AC blades, but I use an open blade razor, the Feather SS.
Thanks! Prolines are in the mail - appreciate the rec! Will let you know how it goes once I use em.
 
Now the only thing left to do that will still improve your experience is to switch from Feather Professional blades to Schick Proline. Better in every conceivable way.

Thanks for sharing your story. I, too, ended up at AC blades, but I use an open blade razor, the Feather SS.
Having used the prolines for 5 shaves, I have to agree. Not going to part with the feather pro's, but once gone, I will probably order the prolines - sharp and smooth.

Thanks for the tip!
 
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