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I've had reasonably good results outta "Metal Magic" from the same Coles Aisle as the Brasso/silvo
don't know the exact formulation of it, but it seems to work quite well with Silver Steels in getting rid of gunk 'n stuff, and certainly seems to be finer then Brasso.
In short, You got something for your money, I will guarentee you that :thumbup:
However, When the P&H is more then the actual product's selling worth, it sorta implies that the product isn't exactly the best in regards to the quality :thumbdown
But yeah, Like the man says, You Get What You...
I always wondered what the difference between all the Shavette type razors were... Now I have somewhat of a clue
I wonder, Do you guys in the states get the Wahl branded ones? they seem to be constructed similarly to the Tri and the Dianne thingies
That's sorta the only sort I've seen for sale...
I don't have any issue with referring to my razors as being straight, Heck, I can even say I'm on the straight and narrow with work these days..
But I certainly can't refer to myself as being totally straight:thumbup:
Begs the question though, How many of us LBGT folk in this forum...
Possibly, just possibly, you're allergic to Nickel, which most Stainless Steels seem to have (in a greater or lesser then quality)
it happens, I've known someone to go into anaphylactic shock due to having a stainless chain placed around their neck :thumbdown
Do you have any reaction to other...
If that stone is a finishing stone (like a coti or thuri) then that's gotta be one hell of a sharp scythe...
most Scythe stones seem to fall in the range of 100-500
I wouldn't attempt honing a razor on one of these myself
Okay, I start with 1000 grit paper on glass, then 2000 grit paper, then I come off a 'fine' spyderco hone (flattened) to a balsa strop pasted with a metal polish, then the CrOx on the other side
I suppose if I got myself a finer stone it might work better, but to my eyes, after the polish and...
Okay, I've got a question about Taping a spine
I understand the principle of it, and the 'protecting the spine' aspect of the operation, but well, I've a few questions about the angles and the like
Does the tape adjust the angle of the edge to assist, or hinder the shave in any way...
Cursory glance over it suggests it doesn't need that much work, You could probably get away with just getting it honed up and shaving from there
Though the bit missing off the scales makes it look shoddy as it were.
A brief guess?
One's branded with the King Kutter logo, The other is branded with the Eidelwiess logo
Maybe slightly slightly differences in the actual blade geometry somewhere, or possibly the scales on one were made out of a more 'luxurious' material
Or (and I'm heavily leaning...
*looks at pictures*
Yep, that's a straight razor alright, I'd recognise them anywhere
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and suggest that it's an "American Beauty" as manufactured by the Worcester Razor Co. in Massachusetts.
Not knowing the type of edge it has on it, I'd...
Simple, give it a coat of a light oil, and put in a dry place. Most of the rust seems to be black rust, so it's unlikely to be actively eating away at the steel
if you want, you could possibly give it a polish with some metal polish or the like, but yeah, Dry environment would stop it from...
D-rings for me also
I've a couple of strops with handles, and I end up turning them upside down and hooking my thumb into the end that is meant to hang on the door.
I guess I am a little backwards sometimes :lol:
To my eyes, The cut of the strop means that you only have a guarenteed firm surface of approximately 2 inches wide
The sides don't seem to have enough support at either end to maintain even pressure on the full width of the blade (I might be mistaken, after all, it's hard to see the top end of...
Where does it end? I ask that, because well, you know how bladehungry gillette have gotten these days with their offerings (mach3, Fusion? what next??)
Given how we can keep adding blades, I guess the sky is the limit with that line of thinking