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Luetens frags seem to break down into two categories which are polar opposites of each other: rich, rococo compositions and austere, almost spartan sketches. While I enjoy and own several of the former, it is the latter where I think the brand's brilliance lies. Serge Noir and Borneo 1824 are...
No less than one shade lighter than the pants is quite a bit different than white shoes with black pants. If an extreme example urges you to hew to rigid rules, please feel free. I prefer to exercise my judgement and discretion. Sometimes that includes brown shoes after 6 PM too.
Generally speaking, I prefer brown shoes to black. I find the color richer and they develop a better patina. In more casual attire, it is perfectly acceptable to wear brown shoes with navy pants. So I'd opt for brown.
Lighter brown shoes can look quite good with navy pants. Perhaps many...