As per our long standing policy of not permitting medical advice on the forum - all threads concerning the Coronavirus will be locked.
For more info on the coronavirus please see the link below:
You haven't mentioned your stropping technique. With some steels you need to pay more attention to the stropping, like going to the strop between 20x on your Jnat and the next 20x on the Jnat. If it is keen but not keen enough go to the strop again. The difference between keen and super keen is...
Something has to provide the slurry if you are going to use a slurry. The DN levels the playing field for the Jnats so that even the hardest base stone can be used if you do not have a tomo slurry stone that will provide it. Rubbing two hard stones together is a mixed bag, at least...
"""Which one should I use as the tomo nagura for slurry and which one should I use as the base stone? The one on the left is 1/4 to 1/3 inch thick while the one on the right is 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. """
In general your tomo should be slightly softer than the base stone, just rub yours...
I agree with the two guys above. The very light slurry, a whisper of slurry can do wonders. An ultra crushed fresh light slurry can also greatly affect an edge in the final stages. Crafty stropping rules.
I lap my Japanese naturals everytime I use them because I always use an Atoma as a Diamond Nagura. The amount of lapping, not under running water but with just a splash equals the amount of slurry that using a tomonagura would provide. I do use a tomonagura but only for the final finishing...
My impression was that
"According to my understanding hollow ground razors from Solingen and Thiers factories were honed originally on convex stones. "
they were just touched up before leaving the factory on the convex stones seen in the video. I could be wrong.
In theory, using a rounded stone to sharpen something that is historically "straight" does not make sense. It might make a razor sharp, but it does not make it straight, it only makes it sharp. For knives that is just fine, for smiling razors that is fine, for frowning hollow ground razors...
Here are some guys with hours under their belts. Knives knives and more knives, they charge about $5 a piece to house wives. They will even retemper the blades if they need it.
Convex hones are fine for knives ie; curved blades, or for touch up honing.
Yasuki knife fair 2008
You are right, 5 coats of marine grade varnish. One coat under the paper and 4 over. 7 or 8 day process on that stone, I did not brush on the varnish but used a bread pan with that stone just fit into and dunked the stone and let the extra varnish run off back into the pan then air dried...
That stone on the left shares my bed each night, has its own pillow and little blanket. During the day it follows me around my shop when it is not resting in the top drawer.
That was a fun visit we had a couple of years ago, great meal too, my introduction to southern hospitality.
Bread-knifing or what I called jointing an edge is a way to prove a razor is dull, and that is one of the reason why I did that in my videos. I got guff for it for a while, but I always suspected that those guffer guys had never really tried it.
Jointing an edge is just a technique and it does...