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I have bought a few Boker razors recently and of course, they give you a sheet of instructions.
I didn't pay a lot of notice until just now, thought I would just have a look and see if I was told to rest them.
No, but I am not supposed to strop the razor after use, I still do though.
You know what it's like when you get the urge to own a Ruthenium coated razor, that itch just has to be scratched.
Not only Ruthenium coated but 24 Carat Gold plated first.
What benefit this brings I have no idea, I did Google Ruthenium but came away no wiser.
However, I can now say when asked...
My Shapton 12k feels and looks under the microscope, to be coarser than my 8k one. I have no idea why this should be but I have other stones to finish with so the Shapton sits in the box until I can understand the problem.
The guy I bought it from claimed it was pre WW2, I would have no idea if that is true. I know that Gong was one of Ern's brands but there is no mention of Ern on the razor, on the rear of the tang it says German Make 2633.
Lovely fine grind NOS with paper still on the razor when it arrived...
I can't really help you all though I have rescued a few old-timers I am really only a bodger. Lots of guys on here would know better than me. The Cadman I got on the bay as you see it. The people who sold it knew it as great grandad's WW1 razor, though they didn't know why someone else's name...
I would be happy to use the Flic, the other three I would put to one side. With the Flic you could learn everything you need to start your straight razor adventure. My first razor was a Kropp, still a good razor despite my best efforts to ruin it.
You will buy more, and eventually, find your...