No Pressure or How Light is a Light Touch

[BrooklynSalt]

i read a post from a member who was on a buying sabbatical and mentioned that it forced him to dial in his technique. He said, and I’m paraphrasing, a great shave is all technique and no pressure.

I took that to heart and have been using the same razor I always use (Rockwell 3C, Plate 3) and I’m using very little pressure. However I’m finding that I’m not getting super close shaves (I typically don’t like to shave against the grain. One with, one or two across usually does it). However the alum bar is telling me I’m doing something correctly.

Should I add a tad more pressure, or perhaps try to refine the angle of the razor or what?

Thanks.

 

[August West]

My barber tells a tale that in tonsorial school he had to shavette shave a balloon without popping.

I love the guy, but he is full of crap sometimes.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Here's something I wrote on the matter...

The Wanderers Guide - Episode 2

Now to put this all in perspective, get a razor, and take the blade out. With the blade removed, close your eyes, and "shave" your cheek so lightly that you can barely feel the razor touching it. That's what I aim for in terms of pressure. Now with a thick, rich lather, that will interfere with that "feel", so I also go for a light wet lather that lubricates the skin but doesn't muffle what's happening.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

My barber tells a tale that in tonsorial school he had to shavette shave a balloon without popping.

I love the guy, but he is full of crap sometimes.

 

[John Rose]

[snip] I took that to heart and have been using the same razor I always use (Rockwell 3C, Plate 3) and I’m using very little pressure. However I’m finding that I’m not getting super close shaves (I typically don’t like to shave against the grain. One with, one or two across usually does it). However the alum bar is telling me I’m doing something correctly.

Should I add a tad more pressure, or perhaps try to refine the angle of the razor or what?

Try it (one change at a time) and see what happens. It's not like you're going to void the warranty by experimenting.
People say "let the weight of the razor" supply the pressure, but then they fail to mention that modern razors can twice (or more) as heavy as vintage ones.
Don't forget the third option of using a more aggressive plate.

Waiddaminnit...

...the same razor I always use (Rockwell 3C, Plate 3)...

Do you actually mean a "2C", with just a single 1&3 plate?
Never mind.

What I've discovered recently is that with a new blade I have to go easy on the pressure, and pay closer attention to the angle. Once the blade (Astra SP, in my case) is broken in after 6-8 shaves I can afford to be a bit more reckless. I can press harder without getting any irritation or weepers, and I can use any razor (i.e. various degrees of aggression) and they all feel about the same. Tonight I'm up to 77 shaves on the same blade, got BBS, no sting at all from the alum, and very little sting from the aftershave splash.

However the alum bar is telling me I’m doing something correctly.

So you are fortunate in having something to fall back on as a base line.
Now that I think of it, maybe going ATG is a good thing to try first.

 

[August West]

Ha!

 

[Invicta]

Should I add a tad more pressure, or perhaps try to refine the angle of the razor or what?

The pressure can be considered in 2 dimensions, perpendicular to the skin and parallel to the skin. The perpendicular component stays light but the parallel component increases as the blade wears. Build that into your technique and you will avoid those nicks, cuts and weepers. Unfortunately you have to go against the grain for the closest shave. If you are getting irritation consider better preparation and blade angle which are important factors.

 

[Sharp&Shiny]

It’s hard to explain because everyone shaves differently and there are too many variables. I just shaved and if something didn’t work out then I adjusted my technique for the next shave, etc. I keep it simple same soap, same razor for one or two weeks, and same blade.

The way I did it was by shaving without stretching my skin, and by not making gestures to stretch my skin, making sure the razor wasn’t moving my skin(pulling or pressing) and my lather was covering my face well. I think pressure has to be used, just very little of it.

 

[Saltchuck]

The pressure can be considered in 2 dimensions, perpendicular to the skin and parallel to the skin. The perpendicular component stays light but the parallel component increases as the blade wears.

This. If you move the blade parallel to the skin, you cut whiskers, not skin.

 

[ackvil]

My barber tells a tale that in tonsorial school he had to shavette shave a balloon without popping.

I love the guy, but he is full of crap sometimes.

My cousin passed the barbers exam in NYS many years ago when they did not use shavettes. He said he had to shave a balloon without bursting it.

 

[BigJ]

Wonderful video!! Thanks for sharing.

 

[August West]

My cousin passed the barbers exam in NYS many years ago when they did not use shavettes. He said he had to shave a balloon without bursting it.

I think I may owe someone an apology.

 

[Twelvefret]

i read a post from a member who was on a buying sabbatical and mentioned that it forced him to dial in his technique. He said, and I’m paraphrasing, a great shave is all technique and no pressure.

I took that to heart and have been using the same razor I always use (Rockwell 3C, Plate 3) and I’m using very little pressure. However I’m finding that I’m not getting super close shaves (I typically don’t like to shave against the grain. One with, one or two across usually does it). However the alum bar is telling me I’m doing something correctly.

Should I add a tad more pressure, or perhaps try to refine the angle of the razor or what?

Thanks.

My pressure is directly related to the vintage razor I am using. The Barbasol Floating Head and similar have so much blade exposure I use audible clues rather than tactile to determine both pressure and angle.

 

[Rusty_Sailor]

Good advice above with taking the blade out and playing around with different pressures. I use a lot of "blade buffing" with a modern heavier razor and find that light pressure is a practiced skill.

 

[G-Dogg]

Ultimately, only you can work out what combination of angle and pressure works best for you. Personally, I think the “no pressure” rule has been elevated to an article of faith instead of being a piece of good advice to newcomers switching from carts. Don’t be afraid to apply pressure to the razor head to see whether that improves shave quality.

Just try to change only one variable at a time, that’s all, so you can clearly identify cause and effect when you vary your approach.

 

[kluber]

It’s hard to explain because everyone shaves differently and there are too many variables. I just shaved and if something didn’t work out then I adjusted my technique for the next shave, etc. I keep it simple same soap, same razor for one or two weeks, and same blade.

The way I did it was by shaving without stretching my skin, and by not making gestures to stretch my skin, making sure the razor wasn’t moving my skin(pulling or pressing) and my lather was covering my face well. I think pressure has to be used, just very little of it.

Ultimately, only you can work out what combination of angle and pressure works best for you. Personally, I think the “no pressure” rule has been elevated to an article of faith instead of being a piece of good advice to newcomers switching from carts. Don’t be afraid to apply pressure to the razor head to see whether that improves shave quality.

Just try to change only one variable at a time, that’s all, so you can clearly identify cause and effect when you vary your approach.

Keep at it. You’ll get there. Just try adjusting some things and see how it goes.

i feel the above is good advice.

I think some info on B&B forum however — while best intentions at heart — isn’t necessarily good advice. As noted we all have slightly (sometimes greatly) different shave routines/beards, pressure, angle. Granted I’ve given my share of “advice” too. Haha.


If the alum has a sharp sting all over something is likely not going the way you want - (some sting/tingle can be common). Your angle or lather may be less than ideal. Some pressure is generally needed just not a lot (ie not like a cart) but your angle just sounds slightly off but that’s just s guess. It also might be worth trying s more efficient plate as Rockwell has been considered pretty mild by many users.

 

[BrooklynSalt]

Ultimately, only you can work out what combination of angle and pressure works best for you. Personally, I think the “no pressure” rule has been elevated to an article of faith instead of being a piece of good advice to newcomers switching from carts. Don’t be afraid to apply pressure to the razor head to see whether that improves shave quality.

Just try to change only one variable at a time, that’s all, so you can clearly identify cause and effect when you vary your approach.

I’ve been using a DE and brush for about a year. I just thought to experiment with lighter pressure. Today’s shave I added a little more and the alum told me that everything was good.

 

[G-Dogg]

I’ve been using a DE and brush for about a year. I just thought to experiment with lighter pressure. Today’s shave I added a little more and the alum told me that everything was good.

Excellent!

 

[Badgerstate36]

I would say you could try changing up your technique a bit. You could try maybe riding the top cap more. That will give you a shallower blade angle and will give you more of a slicing action instead of the chopping action you get with a steeper angle.
Thats what I do and I can get a BBS shave with even the mildest of razors.

 

[BrooklynSalt]

I would say you could try changing up your technique a bit. You could try maybe riding the top cap more. That will give you a shallower blade angle and will give you more of a slicing action instead of the chopping action you get with a steeper angle.
Thats what I do and I can get a BBS shave with even the mildest of razors.

Tried, that with a horrible lather. The alum told me the shave was good. thank you!