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SONY alpha A57 DSLR

Don't go taking a full width histogram as gospel, however. A low key shot, with mid-dark tones will always shift to the left, high-key bright tones will shift right.

Now I'm not sure, but if you use flash, the evf should brighten up, but if not, there's an option in a menu to change settings effect off - vital in a studio.
 
The histogram is just a tool and takes some feel to use. So let say you have a white lily in a vase against a white background and everything is lit and the background is exposed to be white, or near it, your histogram will be to the right. I use it as a spot check to see if I'm off somewhere or if there is some shadow hiding. But once you shoot a bunch you'll get a feel what you like in exposure. Check out Gavin Hoey's or Joe Brady's videos on YouTube.

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Wow loving this camera this was taken about 20 mins ago
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That's with the Lens that had Fungus in it, but I have found if I have the dial on Auto the pictures looks blue. When I set it to no flash I get the picture above.

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Is this where the camera is looking for light from a flash
 
Not sure about that specific Sony model, but looks like the white balance is a bit off in Auto mode, maybe it can be adjusted even though it's in Auto, pretty sure the guys will have better advice though!
 
Wow loving this camera this was taken about 20 mins ago
View attachment 853032

That's with the Lens that had Fungus in it, but I have found if I have the dial on Auto the pictures looks blue. When I set it to no flash I get the picture above.

View attachment 853038

Is this where the camera is looking for light from a flash

Great gear Ian! Most of the photos I take on auto under artificial lighting usually turn out similarly so I use color correction filters in Photoshop to bring them to the right temperature. It seems faster and easier for me to do that in post than to set the camera in advance of the shot.

Not sure what the capabilities of your Sony are in that regard but looks like you're off to a great start.
 
Thanks Lane! I thought it was me as I get the same result under daylight as well, but I am still playing around to see what the best way is lol.
 
Right I think I have got it close just taken this with room light only and the picture seems to be a lot better

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So it looks like I have got closer lol
 
Greetings Ian,

So I spent a little time on some razor photography last night using my Canon EOS 6DM2 and auto white balance under cool temp LED overhead lights.

Needless to say, auto white balance of my Canon is problematic at best under that sort of lighting. The resulting images render green a more bluish color. I was shooting in the Canon RAW format and even in post it was a challenge to properly color match. If I took the blue tone out of the green background, it added an almost gold tone to the silver colored razor.

In order to compromise and to show the razor properly, I ended up having to show the green backdrop a little more blue-green than it really is. More targeted adjustment would probably fix that but it's not super critical I do so, so I just left as is.

I'm no pro photog but at this stage I know for any shots where accurate color rendering is important, I would definitely want to get the lighting closer to daylight during image creation.
 
If my auto white balance is struggling on my Nikon, I usually scroll through the manual WB options and take sample shots until one setting matches the actual colour best, doesn't take long to have a quick look on the display.
Not sure what WB settings are available on other brands, especially with the camera in full Auto mode.

The lighting I use works great with my auto WB, think it was just luck though as it was just a normal table lamp I had sitting about, not even sure what bulb/temp colour is in it.

Sometimes you just can't get it spot on with certain lighting though, like you say.

I try to get things right during shooting, mainly due to the fact that I'm not great at post production fiddling!
 
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Yes I'm not good with software so I want it close to the Image, what I have found had to get a white balance disc you put the disc in the shot. Then take a photo in the white balance setting of the disc then save it. Remove the disc and take a photo and its spot on to be fair, as it alters the iso if that means anything to me not yet I'm sure it will all come.
 
I have had this setup for about 3 years. I originally looked at something more expensive, but am glad I got these. They work just fine.

I'm happy with these they seem to work very well to me that is lol being new to this, now my next question for when I'm taking a picture of my razor for the days shave is it worth getting a ring flash. One that goes on the end of the lens or just use what I have now.
 
There are plans floating around on the web detailing how to build a light box. A small one is better for such and much cheaper. You could also look at the Gary Fong Lightsphere. I have found it good for diffusing light and seeming to "wrap" the light from the flash around what you are photographing. I use it on my speedlite bouncing light off of the ceiling.
 
There are plans floating around on the web detailing how to build a light box. A small one is better for such and much cheaper. You could also look at the Gary Fong Lightsphere. I have found it good for diffusing light and seeming to "wrap" the light from the flash around what you are photographing. I use it on my speedlite bouncing light off of the ceiling.

Thank you Sir!!! I have been looking at those, but is it worth the high price he seems to be asking for them.
 
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