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- #21
Jnat finish question
- Thread starter Mikali
- Start date
Steve, that's what I'm still fighting, knowing 100% sure ...
I do a TNT, if it bites it should be good.
And this is a microscope pic of a 2k bevel which I "think" to be good ...
To my eyes this photo tells the tale. Although it can be difficult due to manipulation of light- the photo I see does not show that the bevel is set.
You should be able to shave your face off of your bevel (although it is not the most comfortable) you should be able to remove facial hair to the CCS level. ATG may not be possible depending on your beard.
All honing past roughly 3k is polishing. If your razor is not shaving it is most likely due to the bevel not properly set as others have said.
There are many respected honers replying to you with really great advice!
Please let us know how this turns out and don’t hesitate to ask questions we are all here to help!
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IMightBeWrong
Loves a smelly brush
Depending on your chosen bevel setting stone trying to shave off the grit may not be a good idea. I certainly wouldn’t put a razor off my Shapton Pro 1K to my face to test the bevel as it would be far too toothy. I like the TNT for this reason. I’ll try dryly taking hair off my face after getting the edge polished a bit closer to at least 6-8K. YMMV.
With respect- I hone on Shapton pro and set bevel with a 1.5k. If there is a toothy edge off of the 1k I would suggest join the edge then do more strokes to reset the apex. I can shave just fine off my 1.5k hone after proper stropping. YMMV
I do TNT as well but it can fool you. Really no “bevel test” is 100%
Keeping the edge nice and straight from bevel to finish with no microchips is the way to go for me.
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IMightBeWrong
Loves a smelly brush
I’ve tried joining a few times but only found it useful for microchip fixes. I didn’t find any discernible difference between a joined edge and one that went straight through a progression in the actual shave so long as I spent the right amount of time on each grit or refining with slurry dilution. I would think 1k joined and back to 1k still would cause irritation and scrape a lot of skin when tested. I’m not saying it isn’t a valid test, but I surely wouldn’t be comfortable testing an edge that way. I would just be afraid that I would give myself irritation without much justification. I use TNT and a Loupe to look for edge problems and it’s worked great for me.
+1. Simple is good. Dulling an edge and then bringing it back is only making the process longer and more.complicated. And tnt and 10x loupe is all I need as well. There's so many unnecessary steps it's mind boggling. If we had an old time barber here today he would laugh at all this. it's a very simple process. And honing and shaving a fresh edge as often as possible will teach anyone more than theories, scopes etc.
- Thread starter
- #27
Today I took a Japanese "Supreme" to the test.
Dulled the edge by pulling it 3 times alongside the stone.
Then reset the bevel on the shapton glass 4K followed by the 8K.
Stropped and shaved.
It was a very good shave ! In all honesty I was really suprised it went that well, without any tugging or irritation.
At least I know now the bevel is good and the base for the Jnat finish is there.
Dulled the edge by pulling it 3 times alongside the stone.
Then reset the bevel on the shapton glass 4K followed by the 8K.
Stropped and shaved.
It was a very good shave ! In all honesty I was really suprised it went that well, without any tugging or irritation.
At least I know now the bevel is good and the base for the Jnat finish is there.
- Thread starter
- #29
If you have a 8k finish there go to jnat make a slurry work razor dilute to water stop when the blade really sticks then strop 60 or so laps your welcome
Have you tried just water on jnat finish? Good luck and have fun
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Test shave after the 16k. If you are lacking sharpness there then you probably have not set the bevel correctly.
If the edge shaves ok at 16k, but the edge is less sharp after the Jnat, then it's either you, the Jnat, the Tomo, or some sort of combo of the 3. Before trying a thousand combinations of suggestions, see if you can get a good shave off the 16k and then do water-only laps to finish on the Jnat. It's common for new users make and/or use slurry incorrectly.
I've never been a fan of going above 8k with synths to finish on a Jnat. The Shapton 16k is notorious for being difficult by itself, let along as a near finisher in any progression. Shaption pointedly left the 16k & 30k out of the recommended for razor work list.
You should be able to manage a shave off the 1k Glass Stone, including ATG. That's a good 'proof' that your bevel is in a good place.
TNT is a bevel-set only 'test' (not for refined edges) but can be difficult to read correctly without having tested many edges that way. For example, the blade biting into the nail is just part of the test. How it bites, the steepest angle that it will bite, and how it feels when you pull it through the nail from heel to toe - all factor in, esp that last bit.
Anyway, set up a progressive test, make incremental changes, one at a time. Estabish the existence of a properly set bevel first and build from there. Chances are, the issue is the culmination of several factors, not just one thing; beginning with a not-so-very-set bevel.
I'm one that goes from a 16000 grit shapton to a JNat and I have had great sucess doing this.
Reading the above, I am wondering if I should dial it back and finish on the synthetics on something lower like an 8000 or 10000?
Also wondering what issues others have had with taking razors up to 16000 synthetics?
Again, its worked for me, but straight razor shaving is one of the most "results may vary" hobbies that I have.
Reading the above, I am wondering if I should dial it back and finish on the synthetics on something lower like an 8000 or 10000?
Also wondering what issues others have had with taking razors up to 16000 synthetics?
Again, its worked for me, but straight razor shaving is one of the most "results may vary" hobbies that I have.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
It depends on how fast (grit dense) the jnat finisher is. If you have a suitably fast stone, you can go from 4k to finish. If it is fine enough.
If your finisher is more of a polisher than a cutter (not a bad thing, you just have to prep for it), then you need to finish to 6k-8k equivalent or thereabouts.
If your finisher is more of a polisher than a cutter (not a bad thing, you just have to prep for it), then you need to finish to 6k-8k equivalent or thereabouts.
I go to 8k synthetic before any natural finisher.
I find it is the perfect jumping point that yields the best results with minimal time on virtually all natural hones.
I find it is the perfect jumping point that yields the best results with minimal time on virtually all natural hones.
I concur no benefit in going past 8k
Op hasn’t post in 18 months. Just FYI.
