Hey everyone, I have a very hard time with irritation and I desperately need some advice. What would you guys recommend for a thicker beard but sensitive skin? I bleed and get irritated on my neck every time. I am currently using a Merker Classic with Astra Blades
Need advice
- Thread starter Bryan15012
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No pressure! Shallow angle!
No pressure! Shallow angle!
No pressure! Shallow angle!
No pressure! Shallow angle!
No pressure! Shallow angle!
No pressure! Shallow angle!
No pressure! Shallow angle!
No pressure! Shallow angle!
No pressure! Shallow angle!
Technique and prep are incredibly important. The absolute lightest pressure you can apply is the best place to start. If you're just transferring from using cartridges you're probably using too much pressure. The proper angle is very important as well. You want to start with the handle parallel to the ground, then gradually lower the handle until the blade starts cutting. You want to maintain that angle.
Prep also is important. Shaving after a shower is good, but I find that in the summertime my shower water tends to run cooler than what I use in the winter. I'd consider a hot towel on your face for 3+ minutes then lather up. A towel in the microwave works well for me. I use a hand towel at maximum power for 48 seconds.
Prep also is important. Shaving after a shower is good, but I find that in the summertime my shower water tends to run cooler than what I use in the winter. I'd consider a hot towel on your face for 3+ minutes then lather up. A towel in the microwave works well for me. I use a hand towel at maximum power for 48 seconds.
Be sure to map your beard so that you know which way the grain grows.
- Thread starter
- #5
I'm not cutting myself though. I am bleeding because of raised hair follicles that are being cut. I don't know how to avoid that
What he said! In my case when I get irritation it is that I am too far down on my angle.
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Are you shaving against the grain (ATG)? If you are I'd suggest not doing that. Go with the grain (WTG) and maybe across the grain (XTG) and leave it at that. And as said above - no pressure - just guide the razor very lightly.
+2. Great advice IMO!
prep is oh so important. I do a face scrub, pre shave oil and then do a lot of lathering (a good, slick soap is vital). take your time shaving. I used to have neck issues but now do two passes (WTG and ATG) for a smooth neck.
A hot shower,rubbing softening conditioner into chin with a 'scrunchie',leave blade and razor,in a sink full of hot water,whilst showering,jump out of shower,lather up,and start shaving...
- Thread starter
- #11
So I went lightly with no pressure and it felt like the blade was pulling my hair. Should I get a sharper blade or do I just suck at this? I have been using a de for about two years now. Some days it is perfect and some days it is horrible.
It wouldn't hurt to try a different blade. I haven't figured out the smooth vs sharpness quotient. But there are variables in blades you will have to discover yourself. For me, Gillette Silver Blues have both qualities.
And I don't know if you've done this, but you might have to give your face a break from shaving. If you can't, don't strive for as close a shave in those irritated areas. I get irritation around my chin, usually when I get too close a shave. So I shift to my Bump Fighter when I need to back off from a super close shave.
Lastly, the lather makes a difference. A lather that works good with a DE razor might not with a SE razor. I have super lathers that add slickness to a protective lather. Again, it's a matter of experimenting and discovering what works for us.
Merkur 180 with a feather.
+1
I started shaving with cold water several months ago and it really helped. I would also suggest a pre-shave oil if you're not already using one. I use Shave Secret. It's cheap and is probably available at your local walmart.
+1
Aside from angle and pressure, lather is equally important to a shave. You're aiming for equal parts slick / cushion. Too dry or too wet will not tolerate newbie technique very well.
take imatabor's photographs above and work from there..
another thing that works for me, it's really easy once you've felt a smooth slick slide: very shallow angle as like the middle photo, slide the razor "back" on the cap over the shave lather before drawing forward to cut.
The smooth glide makes it easy to know you're not too deep, and you can make short draws forward which allow you to roll (and feel!) just the beginning of the razor edge into your beard. You'll note you hear (in a quiet room - no running water noise!) the cutting before you feel the pull that tells you you are too deep and starting to scrape and cause burning.
Try it, does wonders for me to remind myself I can be even shallower, and the backslide seems to make the razor glide better before those short cutting strokes.
another thing that works for me, it's really easy once you've felt a smooth slick slide: very shallow angle as like the middle photo, slide the razor "back" on the cap over the shave lather before drawing forward to cut.
The smooth glide makes it easy to know you're not too deep, and you can make short draws forward which allow you to roll (and feel!) just the beginning of the razor edge into your beard. You'll note you hear (in a quiet room - no running water noise!) the cutting before you feel the pull that tells you you are too deep and starting to scrape and cause burning.
Try it, does wonders for me to remind myself I can be even shallower, and the backslide seems to make the razor glide better before those short cutting strokes.
So many variables, all YMMV! And we all tend to give advice based on which variable gave us problems, wanting to share our successes.
First, it would be interesting to know what razor and blades you are using. Why? There are common razors I cannot get a good shave with, no matter what I try (Old Types, Techs), and others that never fail me (NEWs, 1950's US Aristocrats/President/Diplomat). There are blades that others swear by that leave me a mess (Astra SPs), no matter what razor they are installed in. The point is, there are combinations that others love that absolutely will not work for me - I had to find my combo through experimentation.
Prep, I tend to think of as beard hydration. Some use oil, some use pre-shaves, some use hot towels, I shower before I shave. If I shave at the sink before I shower, I bleed, and I'm sure that is because I am short-cutting hydration. Find your method.
Lather - I'm fortunate that a lot of different soaps and creams work for me. A lot, but not all - 1% of the population will have negative skin reactions with topical glycerin and I am in that 1%. Any soap with glycerin added seems to cross the line and will cause my skin to almost immediately redden and raise bumps. End result, I bleed. And I don't know if bowl lathering vs palm lathering vs face lathering makes a hill of beans of difference, but I face lather with a badger with a lot of backbone and a little bit of scritch because I like the feel of the exfoliation.
Technique? You've been DE shaving for 2 years, so it's likely been awhile since you've had a cart in your hands, but my technique with a cart was always with the handle almost vertical, and with a firm hand. Neither works very well with DE. Have you modified your technique for your new tools? WTG ok while ATG tears you up? Then WTG only unless or until your technique is honed enough to allow ATG. My XTG (across the grain) is horizontal from ear to chin, not an "X" pattern on the 45's - see if one works better for you than the other. Add that to your technique before you tackle ATG.
And then there can be a bit of genetics involved. You mention that you are bleeding because of raised hair follicles that are being cut, but you also say some days are perfect while others are horrible. Are razor bumps part of your genetic makeup, or is something in your prep or process causing them to raise while shaving? Analyze those shaves that went perfectly and see if any differences in any of the many variables stand out.
Who would have thought that a simple task like shaving would have so many variables that have to be dialed in and managed <lol> But when they are, it's magic!
First, it would be interesting to know what razor and blades you are using. Why? There are common razors I cannot get a good shave with, no matter what I try (Old Types, Techs), and others that never fail me (NEWs, 1950's US Aristocrats/President/Diplomat). There are blades that others swear by that leave me a mess (Astra SPs), no matter what razor they are installed in. The point is, there are combinations that others love that absolutely will not work for me - I had to find my combo through experimentation.
Prep, I tend to think of as beard hydration. Some use oil, some use pre-shaves, some use hot towels, I shower before I shave. If I shave at the sink before I shower, I bleed, and I'm sure that is because I am short-cutting hydration. Find your method.
Lather - I'm fortunate that a lot of different soaps and creams work for me. A lot, but not all - 1% of the population will have negative skin reactions with topical glycerin and I am in that 1%. Any soap with glycerin added seems to cross the line and will cause my skin to almost immediately redden and raise bumps. End result, I bleed. And I don't know if bowl lathering vs palm lathering vs face lathering makes a hill of beans of difference, but I face lather with a badger with a lot of backbone and a little bit of scritch because I like the feel of the exfoliation.
Technique? You've been DE shaving for 2 years, so it's likely been awhile since you've had a cart in your hands, but my technique with a cart was always with the handle almost vertical, and with a firm hand. Neither works very well with DE. Have you modified your technique for your new tools? WTG ok while ATG tears you up? Then WTG only unless or until your technique is honed enough to allow ATG. My XTG (across the grain) is horizontal from ear to chin, not an "X" pattern on the 45's - see if one works better for you than the other. Add that to your technique before you tackle ATG.
And then there can be a bit of genetics involved. You mention that you are bleeding because of raised hair follicles that are being cut, but you also say some days are perfect while others are horrible. Are razor bumps part of your genetic makeup, or is something in your prep or process causing them to raise while shaving? Analyze those shaves that went perfectly and see if any differences in any of the many variables stand out.
Who would have thought that a simple task like shaving would have so many variables that have to be dialed in and managed <lol> But when they are, it's magic!
I'm going to go the opposite direction on prep and recommend you shave before you shower. It seems like everyone in wet shaving recommends showering first, or apply a hot towel, etc... If you have sensitive skin this may be a bad idea. While it's true that a hot shower is hydrating your beard, it is also hydrating and swelling you skin, particularly the skin follicles.
Everything I've read suggests that hair tends to reach maximum "hydration" in about 3 minutes. Instead of showering, give your face a throrough wash with luke warm water to remove any oils from your beard. If you face lather, the lather building process will also help to hydrate your beard without softening your skin. Focus on the techniques and fundamentals like everyone else suggested, and then shower after you shave. I can almost assure you will have less irritation. It has been a night and day difference for me.
You also may want to try out some different blades, I find GSB and Voskhod to be the 2 smoothest blades for me. And also play around with different soaps, the soap and the lather make a huge difference in comfort of a shave. But for now the easiest thing for you to try is shaving before you shower.
Everything I've read suggests that hair tends to reach maximum "hydration" in about 3 minutes. Instead of showering, give your face a throrough wash with luke warm water to remove any oils from your beard. If you face lather, the lather building process will also help to hydrate your beard without softening your skin. Focus on the techniques and fundamentals like everyone else suggested, and then shower after you shave. I can almost assure you will have less irritation. It has been a night and day difference for me.
You also may want to try out some different blades, I find GSB and Voskhod to be the 2 smoothest blades for me. And also play around with different soaps, the soap and the lather make a huge difference in comfort of a shave. But for now the easiest thing for you to try is shaving before you shower.
