ATG The Final Frontier

[Tomo]

After about 400 straight razor shaves, I finally built up the courage to do a full ATG pass. I always do under the jaw and recently added the neck. Today I went all in and adding the cheeks, chin, and fools pass.

There was no muscle memory to guide me and it felt nearly as awkward as my first shave as I stumbled through each section. The razor wasn’t quite as smooth but I got through it without blood or irritation.

The result is next level smooth. I didn’t get everything BBS but the BBS areas have been significantly extended. I could be hooked. I think that chasing the BBS dragon will become a new weekend pursuit. It’s definitely possible.

 

[ScottChapin]

I’m still chasing it wit a straight. Beginning to think I’ll ever get my Ralph Aust that sharp. I need to try another blade.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tomo]

It’s a real test of sharpness. I might even try a pre pass strop next time. Little buffing strokes seem to do the trick if when you get hung up on tough spots. I’ve watched plenty of videos but am open to any tips and tricks.

 

[rbscebu]

Don't worry @Tomo, it gets easier the more you do it (and the sharper your edge is). I have been doing a Fool's Pass for about 300 SR shaves now. It's a great way to determine the blade's edge condition. The criterion for the Fool's Pass is a half-blade shavette with a Feather Hi Stainless blade.

Skin stretching is very important when SR shaving ATG. Stretch you skin in the opposite direction of your whisker growth so that you are shaving towards you stretching fingers. Of course this cannot be easily done with the upper lip Fool's Pass. There I stretch my upper lip by moving it down over my upper teeth.

 

[haggis]

Little buffing strokes seem to do the trick if when you get hung up on tough spots.

That's my approach, sort of nibbling at it. That way there is little to no chance of an overrun. After going WTG on the first pass, nose to ear second, and nibbles AGT on final I might finish with a very light 'honing' stroke if I'm feeling the edge is up to it and my concentration is on point.

 

[sexy beast]

I always do against the grain after two days of growth. I normally don’t have to shave the following day. I find after you do it for a couple years like I have. I really mean is a couple of decades. You will know your face, neck and get your technique down. Everyone’s face hair grows differently it’s like a fingerprint almost.

 

[Polarbeard]

To me not doing a a third and final pass ATG would be like, after wonderful evening, kiss a beautiful woman on the cheek, wish her a good night and then leave her at her doorstep after that she asked if you would like to come in for a glass of wine.

Never ever say no to a glass of fine wine.

The last step of my ATG pass is the upper lip. A BBS upper lip is the final proof of that you've reached straight razor Nerdvana.

 

[SammieM]

I almost always do 3 passes. It is nothing to be afraid of. I find that paying attention to the angles help. Also for the upper lip I always stabilise the blade with both hands in order to avoid bloodshed. Kinda like laying your finger in the barbers notch.
Also it might be useful to strop before the ATG pass, especially if you are using razors with softer steel e.g. Sheffield etc.

 

[rbscebu]

.... Also for the upper lip I always stabilise the blade with both hands in order to avoid bloodshed. Kinda like laying your finger in the barbers notch.
....

I started doing my Fool's Passes that way but as my edges and shaving technique improved I now do it just one-handed.

 

[Slash McCoy]

It’s a real test of sharpness. I might even try a pre pass strop next time. Little buffing strokes seem to do the trick if when you get hung up on tough spots. I’ve watched plenty of videos but am open to any tips and tricks.

Use your "shaving faces" superpower to stretch your upper lip down and at the same time, pull your nose up with your other hand, like making a "piggy face". And as our learned and esteemed colleague from Cebu said, maximum sharpness makes the fool's pass much easier. And keep your shave angle very low. The spine should be just about dragging on the face. A Feather DE blade is an excellent benchmark. When you can match a feather and beat all the other DE blades for sharpness, it is really pretty easy. But you got to remember to keep the angle nice and tight.

It certainly doesn't hurt to go a dozen laps on your strop before attempting ATG under the nose. This is especially true with a full hollow or an extra full hollow razor without a lot of backbone. The more the edge can flex, the more the whiskers can direct the edge down into the skin.

 

[SammieM]

I started doing my Fool's Passes that way but as my edges and shaving technique improved I now do it just one-handed.

I can do it one-handed as well, but much prefer the stabilised blade approach. I have done three pass shaves since I laid my hands on a straight the first time...

 

[SammieM]

Use your "shaving faces" superpower to stretch your upper lip down and at the same time, pull your nose up with your other hand, like making a "piggy face". And as our learned and esteemed colleague from Cebu said, maximum sharpness makes the fool's pass much easier. And keep your shave angle very low. The spine should be just about dragging on the face. A Feather DE blade is an excellent benchmark. When you can match a feather and beat all the other DE blades for sharpness, it is really pretty easy. But you got to remember to keep the angle nice and tight.

It certainly doesn't hurt to go a dozen laps on your strop before attempting ATG under the nose. This is especially true with a full hollow or an extra full hollow razor without a lot of backbone. The more the edge can flex, the more the whiskers can direct the edge down into the skin.

Forgot to mention the angle and the nearly dragging spine. Thanks Slash.

 

[Polarbeard]

When I do the upper lip ATG I do as Sam writes above; i hold the razor with both hands. Furthermore part of the time I let the lip move against the blad instead for the other way around.

 

[Sukeroku]

I am still botching up the ATG pass; I am usually a bloody mess in the soul patch area and upper lip on that third pass. I am going to definitely try some of these tips. On a brighter note, I managed two solid passes (***, XTG) in under six and a half minutes with just a tiny, tiny nick on the chin. Getting there, step by step...

 

[Jakebullet]

I went atg on my first straight shave and have done so ever since as it’s the only way I can get close. The beard is tough so a bbs shave takes me 4 daily passes but what a difference those last passes make.

 

[ScottChapin]

I went atg on my first straight shave and have done so ever since as it’s the only way I can get close. The beard is tough so a bbs shave takes me 4 daily passes but what a difference those last passes make.

I’m thinking I need to work on stretching. ATG are the passes that go do well for me and I’m thinking that the stretching is easier and holding the blade flatter are what makes it work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jakebullet]

I’m thinking I need to work on stretching. ATG are the passes that go do well for me and I’m thinking that the stretching is easier and holding the blade flatter are what makes it work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes the stretching is key and the better I get with it the better the shave. This is why learning left handed shaving is so important, it gives a lot more stretching options.

 

[ScottChapin]

Yes the stretching is key and the better I get with it the better the shave. This is why learning left handed shaving is so important, it gives a lot more stretching options.

I do use both hands symmetrically with exception to the chin area below my lips. I tend to do that all right handed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cugel]

If I can't do an easy fools pass then I didn't hone it properly. Even an expertly done coticule edge can do a good fools pass. The fools pass and my lower lip are the tests I use for really good edges. Lower lip is a bear without blowing my checks up or using my tongue

 

[Eastcoast30]

I generally shave up, down, sideways and all directions in between. Different areas require different types of attention. And I have never cut my face with a straight (although I have had cuts with cartridge razors). I developed my method after cutting my finger. I was shaving and bumped a finger of my left hand into the blade. (I have seem Slash McC cut his finger on youtube while honing.) Well that was not a pleasant cut and I had to stop shaving, get out the crazy glue and make myself a DIY bandage. And I quickly realized just how SHARP these razors are. So when I shave, I am very careful about positioning the blade, the angle and the careful way the blade must be moved. Not being in a hurry is key. The other key for me is no pressure; the blade needs to glide regardless of direction.