Tung/Watco oil and epoxy?

[awa54]

Does anyone have experience with gluing knots in handles where the socket has been "open oil" finished? I suspect that the oil component interferes with adhesion, but didn't want spend time experimenting if I can benefit from others' knowledge.

I like using lignum vitae and bocote for handles, which are both quite water resistant without treatment, but would like to use other woods as well, while maintaining the nice haptic properties of an open finish.

 

[GAW9576]

Wish I could help. I have done some oil finishes but don't have those brushes anymore for long term review. I should have kept one or two for myself.

 

[bberg100]

Wipe out the socket with acetone, set the knot before oil can seep back out.

 

[Tanuki]

I have done a bunch of beeswax/walnut oil finishes, but they didn't wear well. I am just starting with tung oil, doing many light coats. I have used Watco/Danish oil as well. I wipe and brush the finishes on (no pooling/flooding) and simply avoid applying finish to the bottom of the knot hole.

If I had doubts about whether the bottom was clean enough for a glue joint, I would probably just chuck up my Forstner bit again and scrape a little wood off the bottom. I could even use my lathe chuck as a bit handle and just do the Forstner cleanup by hand.

Thinking about that, in the future I might leave the last 1 or 2mm of knot hole to be drilled after the finish is 'finished'. With tung oil I haven't really defined an end to the finishing process for brushes I use myself. After a tung oiling session on new turnings, I usually find myself hand rubbing a few brushes from my rotation to get the last tung oil off my hands or rag.

I generally prefer low lofts/deep holes, so that also reduces the forces that might break a glue joint. When I'm sure of my knot/loft choice I usually go with a cyanoacrylate (superglue) joint.

I have mainly turned maple, walnut, and fruitwoods, none of which are oily woods.

 

[awa54]

Thanks for the info! I think I'm going to use a vacuum jar setup to get the finish to really penetrate, then just do an aggressive degrease in the socket before gluing... I'll report my results when there's anything to tell.

 

[Ridgeback]

Have you tried Tru oil & Armor all finish?...It's a little work but the results are good.

 

[awa54]

Have you tried Tru oil & Armor all finish?...It's a little work but the results are good.

I've heard of Tru oil, but never used it, certainly never in combination with Armor all...

 

[Ridgeback]

I've heard of Tru oil, but never used it, certainly never in combination with Armor all...

There some tutorials on the web...Google Ed Braun + Tru oil and armor all

 

[Biglo13]

i like your thoughts on open finish, im a big fan of danish like finishes and usually formulate my own. i think if you roughed area where glue contact it most likely would improve bond, or wait until you get failure then rough up and re glue. also a longer cure time on finish would help. please post some images

 

[sneefy]

I like using lignum vitae

Not to derail your thread, but I'd love to see some pics. I'm a fan of Lignum Vitae.

 

[awa54]

Not to derail your thread, but I'd love to see some pics. I'm a fan of Lignum Vitae.

There are pics in the other threads I posted to this sub forum, though mostly bocote recently.

I ought to have a few Argentine L V handles soon though and I'll post them when they are done!

 

[stone and strop]

Lignum Vitae and other natural oily woods can benefit from sanding right before or as mentioned acetone right before gluing. Acetone is not any better than sanding immediately prior to gluing.
As far as gluing into something that was actually oiled I would just scrape/sand the area to remove as the oil does not really penetrate too much on harder woods. You may also try scuffing the surface up a bit giving it some texture to grab on to.

 

[awa54]

Not to derail your thread, but I'd love to see some pics. I'm a fan of Lignum Vitae.

the latest LV handle

 

[CigarSmoka]

Beautiful handles! As mentioned, sanding or cleaning works or can you just let the oil fully polymerize (not the same as drying) and you’ll be fine.