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Side effect of convex stones?

I can’t do much with troublesome razors without using a sharpie/marker. It looks like you have a S going on with the edge or an S and a half.
The red lines in these pictures is what the edge would look like if you were looking straight on.

4AC2F87B-D12B-42EA-BEAF-6E7292546266.jpeg


81A92FAD-0425-4A89-A31E-6956A36C4B93.jpeg

In this next picture. Is this what I’m seeing with that edge?
88F43D14-741F-4B89-B3EB-2E5A06BEAB59.jpeg
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Bummer.

This is a new razor (unless I totally misread things).

While it might be possible to produce a frown by honing, I can't imagine any stone turning a normal edge into a frown without far exceeding the amount of honing it should take to initially sharpen the razor.

If it were my razor I might send it to Jarrod (assuming I could talk him into attempting to fix it). I might consider a conversation with the vendor who sold me a wonky *new* razor. I might just fix it myself.

Oh, I'm a convex stone guy with a nice collection of convex stones (all, I think, from Superior Shave). Not that I'm some sort of expert honer or expert on the convex stones, but I believe producing a frown with a convex hone would take a good bit of work and/or very bad technique.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
You have to be careful grinding near the shank like that. You look like you're developing a step which is not good.
This is why I have never corrected by just honing away. IMO its not the best approach and can lead to more being removed than necessary by honing technique.
I would normally straighten the edge first by holding the razor at a 45 on w/d paper and drag the razor back and forth until straight.
As you start to rest the bevel you can see instantly where it is forming and correct slowly by concentrating on spine pressure for a bit then normal to see if it is developing on the edge. Do NOT over do it! As soon as it starts to develop stop removing steel and hone as normal.
If its really bad still don't want a step and may have to favor the toe for a slight taper to avoid it or hone right up the shank - eventually it will work.
Just my take.
Ditto. I would just do some version of "breadknife", 'til it's flat and then go on from there.
 
Are the edges those shapes or the bevel reveal of the grind?

your edges look kind of straight compared to the bevel wear. Maybe i dont know what straight on is per your comment. Like peering over edge vertically?

I can’t do much with troublesome razors without using a sharpie/marker. It looks like you have a S going on with the edge or an S and a half.
The red lines in these pictures is what the edge would look like if you were looking straight on.

View attachment 1130261

View attachment 1130263
In this next picture. Is this what I’m seeing with that edge?
View attachment 1130282
 
You have to be careful grinding near the shank like that. You look like you're developing a step which is not good.
This is why I have never corrected by just honing away. IMO its not the best approach and can lead to more being removed than necessary by honing technique.
I would normally straighten the edge first by holding the razor at a 45 on w/d paper and drag the razor back and forth until straight.
As you start to rest the bevel you can see instantly where it is forming and correct slowly by concentrating on spine pressure for a bit then normal to see if it is developing on the edge. Do NOT over do it! As soon as it starts to develop stop removing steel and hone as normal.
If its really bad still don't want a step and may have to favor the toe for a slight taper to avoid it or hone right up the shank - eventually it will work.
Just my take.
The grinding near the shank was done with a weak "toy-like dremel". I decided to grind the stabilizer down, because I made contact with it on the stone as soon as I started to hone. So the wear on the stabilizer is not from the stone.
Breadknifing it would be a simpler approach, very true. I'm just so close to be done with it that breadknifing would set me back a few steps.
 
I can’t do much with troublesome razors without using a sharpie/marker. It looks like you have a S going on with the edge or an S and a half.
The red lines in these pictures is what the edge would look like if you were looking straight on.

View attachment 1130261

View attachment 1130263
In this next picture. Is this what I’m seeing with that edge?
View attachment 1130282
The edge has a slight smile, minus a very small area between the toe and the mid section as the bevel is not fully set there.
The wear on the edge may look like an S but the uneven wear suggest more of a bad geometry razor. If it was perfectly grinded I would get even wear over the edge ect.
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
I would have a talk with the vendor, I got a Puma like that and it took me forever to get it straight. I ended up treating it like a Gold Dollar..

I got my Dovo Solingen from the Superior Shave because Jarrod states that he breaks the seal and inspects the razor before shipping. Mine had the factory convex coticule edge that was shave-ready after stropping, albeit not comfortable. A quick 100 laps on my SB ark made it comfortable.
 
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Bummer.

This is a new razor (unless I totally misread things).

While it might be possible to produce a frown by honing, I can't imagine any stone turning a normal edge into a frown without far exceeding the amount of honing it should take to initially sharpen the razor.

If it were my razor I might send it to Jarrod (assuming I could talk him into attempting to fix it). I might consider a conversation with the vendor who sold me a wonky *new* razor. I might just fix it myself.

Oh, I'm a convex stone guy with a nice collection of convex stones (all, I think, from Superior Shave). Not that I'm some sort of expert honer or expert on the convex stones, but I believe producing a frown with a convex hone would take a good bit of work and/or very bad technique.

Happy shaves,

Jim
Hello jim
Yes, a brand new dovo BQ
I kind of expected a problem razor, but not at this level. Have to do almost the same amount of work as with gold dollars lol.
What do they say... be careful what you wish for?😇
Ps I really liked reading about your straight razors and what kind of edges you had each shave. have you settled on the DE for good?
 
The grinding near the shank was done with a weak "toy-like dremel". I decided to grind the stabilizer down, because I made contact with it on the stone as soon as I started to hone. So the wear on the stabilizer is not from the stone.
Breadknifing it would be a simpler approach, very true. I'm just so close to be done with it that breadknifing would set me back a few steps.


I meant on the spine.
It looks like you are developing a step in the spine, like not having the whole blade on the hone.
 
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Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Hello jim
Yes, a brand new dovo BQ
I kind of expected a problem razor, but not at this level. Have to do almost the same amount of work as with gold dollars lol.
What do they say... be careful what you wish for?😇
Ps I really liked reading about your straight razors and what kind of edges you had each shave. have you settled on the DE for good?

Oh, I don't know about the future. Still love my straights. However, the Fatip Open Comb Slant really blew my mind. I bought it only because I'd always planned to buy one when they finally arrived on the scene. I had to at least try it out once. I was immediately hooked.

Thanks.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
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Are the edges those shapes or the bevel reveal of the grind?

your edges look kind of straight compared to the bevel wear. Maybe i dont know what straight on is per your comment. Like peering over edge vertically?

Sorry, my bad. As if you were looking straight at the apex pointed to you, or something you would never want to see coming at you 😊
6A328DEB-D70B-4A3B-AD1A-5C514C7ECBF4.jpeg
 
I meant on the spine.
It looks like you are developing a step in the spine, like not having the whole blade on the hone.
Ah, got it.
Do you suggest grinding it more there to even it out or try to avoid it?
I think the step is from when I started to hit the stabilizer so I avoided that area for abit.
 
The Dovo BQ that had wobble problem was near the heel on the back side. The edge was straight so I only worked the spine were the problem was, tapering it back until the wobble was gone and the geometry true/flat. Then honed normally.

F9867079-2102-4720-9C15-33A2B89D2869.jpeg
 
The Dovo BQ that had wobble problem was near the heel on the back side. The edge was straight so I only worked the spine were the problem was, tapering it back until the wobble was gone and the geometry true/flat. Then honed normally.

View attachment 1130606
It looks like you didn't hit the stabilizer at all there. Or just a good cleanup job?
 
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