Another great shave off Frank. That is how it went when I did that shave off.
Happy shaves
Jason
Happy shaves
Jason
The World Shave Off Showdown
- Thread starter User 306
- Start date
Frank, you could always send your polished for me to test against my matte Ti95DC anytime friend!! I'll be glad to render my opinion...
From what I can remember back a couple months ago, I did a test between my SS95DC polished and the Ti95DC matte and didn't feel any difference in glide during the shave itself. That was part of the reason I sold the SS and picked up a Ti DC plate. The only razor I possess now is the Ti95DC as all others weren't worthy of a spot on the shelf...My undergrad degree is in Electrical Engineering, so I don't profess to have an special knowledge of material science or machining.
But I do work with electrostatic charges that simulate friction, and the ideas behind the creation of friction are similar.
Based on my experience and knowledge, polishing a surface uniformly removes irregular surface imperfections that cause a feeling of friction. So, the smoother the surface, the less friction you'll feel. Which is why polished razors often feel smoother.
To the extent that reduced blade exposure causes the surface of the razor (and not the blade) to contact the surface of your skin, your nerve endings are able to detect those surface imperfections of the razor itself more clearly.
Similarly, razor blades that have increased uniformity of the blade can feel smoother.
In addition, thicker blades and more durable materials of a blade can increase the face feel of smoothness because the machine work of the blade's edge is less likely to deteriorate quickly. Which is why certain blades (artist club SE and stainless steel DE) may feel smoother and sharper longer than Carbon blades that are softer and more prone to rust with exposure to moisture (say during a shave).
To the extent that some razors that are very blade forward feel smooth, it's often a result (based on my experience) of a steep shaving angle and the smooth feeling of the minimal contact with a well machined base cap (for example, the Charcoal Goods and Blackbird).
Which is why I think it may be counterintuitive, but I find that the Karve E is extremely smooth because of the steep angle discipline I learned from razors like the Dart.
Sorry for the lengthy science prologue, but I hope that helps someone.
Jonathan
Thanks for the info!
Jonathan Thanks for the info
- Thread starter
- #3,226
Excellent post Jonathan and your explanation of a high polished surface as opposed to a matte surface almost to the tee the way that Chris explained it to me so I’m very thankful for the post and I’ll mark it so it can be referenced by myself and any other members that would like an excellent explanation on the subject.
Thank you sir!
And those two or three razors that might compete with and come close to the Ti Timeless are...??
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Great post, appreciate the explanations of friction and smoothness.
From my own experience, which may not be typical, when the blade is too far forward, I must alter the angle to either steeper, or more shallow, by riding the safety bar or top cap to avoid irritation and blood. I have some razors I really enjoy that require user adjustment to shave well. But going forward I am trying to buy razors that give a good shave with a neutral angle, both cap and bar on the skin equally. That allows the razor to perform at it's maximally designed efficiency and allows me to more easily control the angle throughout the shave. Too much blade forward makes a neutral angle impossible for me.
I was really lookng forward to a SS Edwin Jagger DE but probably not getting the Edwin Jagger 3ONE6 because most of the reviews say it shaves best not with a neutral angle but by riding the cap because the blade is too forward for a neutral angle. Have emailed EJ for their specs but haven't heard back.
Anyone else have a similar, or different experience/opinion with angles and blade forward?
Thank you.
Yes, I understand Raw Shaving RS 10 to be an incredibly smooth razor, and it’s a shame it’s no longer available (unless one can find a second hand one... quite rare....).
But I would have thought that, with the mild plate, it wouldn’t come anywhere near the efficiency of the Ti Timeless 0.95...?
- Thread starter
- #3,230
Yes efficiency wise the mild plate is no match for the 95 Ti Timeless but the more aggressive plate is actually more Efficient than the Timeless but when I set up this Shave Off it was all about smoothness so I just put mild plate but depending on how things go in the next round I may pull out the more efficient plate as well. Talk about rare and smooth I had a chance to shave with my buddies Titanium RS 10 at the Maggards Meet up which there are only 10 of and that is the Smoothest Efficient Razor I’ve ever shaved with and I’ll put a period and amen on hat statement!
Also like I mentioned don’t count out the Gillette President it’s also a smooth shaver. At least the one I have is for sure. I was thinking the Gillette 34 Aristocrat and the new RR Lupo as well could definitely be contenders
Happy to help!Excellent post Jonathan and your explanation of a high polished surface as opposed to a matte surface almost to the tee the way that Chris explained it to me so I’m very thankful for the post and I’ll mark it so it can be referenced by myself and any other members that would like an excellent explanation on the subject.
Thank you sir!
I think the Karve's rounded base plate with notches may allow for the passage of soap and stubble, while also having a sufficiently large surface area to still feel smooth without a ton of angle discipline.
I like the Charcoal Goods and Blackbird even though they have a much thinner safety bar, which is completely different than the Karve. It may be that my technique has improved enough that all three feel "safe." Or it's possible that the quality of the machining, or the angle of the razor blade is curved such that the blade slices through the hairs easily.
Either way, all three feel safe to me with a steep angle.
If you are looking for a more neutral shave angle, with a high level of efficiency, I might consider the ATT Windsor H, RR GC 84, or Blackland Vector (SE)
No problem @AJSharp !
Last edited by a moderator:
- Thread starter
- #3,234
Today’s Shave Off
Gillette 1st Gen 15 OC Aristocrat vs Gillette F4 Toggle on max & mid settings
In case your wondering why I have decided to set the Toggle on Max setting 9 is not only to compete with the British 1st Gen #15 OC which I find to be the most efficient Aristocrat but because this Shave Off is mostly about smoothness so I want to see how smooth it is when set on max setting.. it was suggested by one member to adjust it down during the Shave Off so I could let members know if the F4 becomes smoother on lower settings so what I’ve decided to do is start out on Max setting of # 9 on the 1st WTG pass and on the 2nd ATG to dial it down to #5 this way I can report on the change in Shave characteristics as it’s dialed down from the max setting. Yes efficiency will change a bit but remember up to 60% of the total score is based on smoothness while only 20% max is based on efficiency.
Just wanted to clear this up before the Shave Off.
Thanks gents!
Gillette 1st Gen 15 OC Aristocrat vs Gillette F4 Toggle on max & mid settings
In case your wondering why I have decided to set the Toggle on Max setting 9 is not only to compete with the British 1st Gen #15 OC which I find to be the most efficient Aristocrat but because this Shave Off is mostly about smoothness so I want to see how smooth it is when set on max setting.. it was suggested by one member to adjust it down during the Shave Off so I could let members know if the F4 becomes smoother on lower settings so what I’ve decided to do is start out on Max setting of # 9 on the 1st WTG pass and on the 2nd ATG to dial it down to #5 this way I can report on the change in Shave characteristics as it’s dialed down from the max setting. Yes efficiency will change a bit but remember up to 60% of the total score is based on smoothness while only 20% max is based on efficiency.
Just wanted to clear this up before the Shave Off.
Thanks gents!
- Thread starter
- #3,238
Shave Off report
British 1st Gen #15 OC TTO vs Gillette F 4 Toggle set on 9 and 5
Good morning gents!
So I feel I can finally report on this Shave Off and be confident in my decision on which razor took this Shave Off as it was very close!
I’d like to note that anyone that has either razor knows when your using 60yr plus razors they can variety from one to the other even though they be the exact same model but I’d like to let you all know that both of these two razor started out as excellent conditioned examples but knowing what I know about vintage TTO and Adjustable razors I sent the Aristocrat and the Toggle out to Cap for a complete professional cleaning and tune up and in the case of the Toggle I wanted to have it plated in Rhodium so it went off to Chris after Cap disassembled it. So the short story is both these razors function as new so the results some may get if doing this same comparison may be different than what mine are. Personally I love both these razors and they are both probably my favorite vintage razors along with my Gibbs and RFB and a couple of other Aristocrats as far as shaving goes. Also I’ll add the Brit may be as well balanced a razor as any ever made. At least for me. Also in my opinion the Toggle doesn’t always get the recognition it deserves for being an excellent shaving tool. So going into this Shave Off I knew I’d have my work cut out for me since both are excellent shavers in my book!
I also decided to do the 1st WTG Pass with the Toggle being wide open on setting #9 as I want to compare the smoothness it exhibits compared to not only the Aristocrat but also is it a lot or just a little smoother on the mid level setting #5 so on the ATG pass I’ll be using the Toggle on setting #5
So let’s get started with the Shave Off!
Gear used:
Gillette F4 Toggle
British 1st Gen #15 Aristocrat OC
New Polsilver blades
Wolf Whiskers/Maggards Two band
MDC Fougere Shave Soap
Homemade Fougere AS
Shave Nation Shave bowl
1st Pass WTG - I started my N to S Pass using the Toggle on my right side set on max setting #9 and there is what I’d call mid level blade feel on that setting but with the high polished of the Rhodium SB combined with the MDC slickness it’s still pleasurably smooth yet efficiently taking down my 2 days growth with no drama at all. With its relatively small head profile it’s a breeze getting under my nose and around my mouth. So a excellent pass! Continuing South with the #15 Aristocrat I notice immediately less blade feel but not by a lot but enough to notice easily. Efficiency on my very tough right side neck with its nasty cowlick and weird growth pattern was very good as it to took down my 2 plus days growth with no trouble. I’ll add that this razor feels so right in hand that at times I wish someone would make a modern version of it so I wouldn’t feel like I have to baby this one as much as I do. Also the audible feedback on the Crat was a little quieter than the Toggle set on #9. Another excellent pass. With the 15 in hand I went over to my left side and began my N to S WTG Pass and the #15 is once again outstanding in its balance of efficiency, smoothness and maneuverability. This side of my face is easier to shave as my beard pattern is much more predictable than my right side. This Aristocrat like the Toggle is very easy to get under the nose and around the mouth. So great pass and on to the last WTG with the Toggle. So moving down my neck on my left side with the Toggle I'm reminded how much I love this razor and how much character it has and I remember when it was my Holy Grail razor and it took me a couple of years to obtain my first one and how nervous I was to use it because I was kind of in awe of it to be honest. What I didn't think about or focus on back then is how good of a shaver it is as I really didn't use the first one but only once I think and it was on setting 3 I believe LOL! Anyway back to the pass and it was another very nice easy predictable pass from the Toggle. Smooth and efficient. I rinsed and relathered up. Love the smell of the MDC Fougere and as a soap I really enjoy the great lather I get with it but the puck seems to never go down as it's a very hard soap. One of my favorites for sure. Oh and if you are wondering about the aftershave that has the MDC on it no MDC doesn't make an aftershave but this is a work in progress as I keep playing with my homemade one and little by little I'm getting closer. I'm also starting to really like fan knots as I have become more of a painter when using my favorite soaps and the fan seems to do that better than my bulbs. Maybe it's me but that's what I'm seeing.
2nd Pass ATG - So I was thinking before starting the pass this is where we seperate the men from the boys and boy was I wrong! With the first WTG pass behind me as soon as I began my S to N pass on my right side at the base of my neck with the Aristocrat and as I started taking northbound strokes up I'm like dang there is very little to clean up as the stubble whatever was left was wiped off with lesser blade feel and audible feedback than on the 1st WTG pass. Very smooth but deceptively efficient and it confirmed why this is my most favorite Aristocrat out of all of them! So traveling up to right under my jawline while going over my cowlick and my adams apple presented no resistance or issues at all. Boy did Gillette get it right with this razor! So it's time for the Toggle to take over and work it's way up my face and this time it's only set on #5 and within a stroke or two I notice that both the blade feel and the audible feedback had been turning down when I dialed it down to #5. Still efficient and like the Aristocrat the Toggle on the first pass took down a good amount of stubble so the clean up on this pass was a breeze. The razor was mild enough for me to go ATG under my nose, on my chin and around my mouth and I never felt threatened at all that I might nick myself. I finished this pass fairly quickly and by the way on the large open areas on my neck and my cheeks I used my X pattern which has almost become my go to technique because I find with any razor that's decently efficient after the 1st WTG pass there is not much left on the 2nd pass and this was no different. I scooted through this pass very quickly and what a good one it was! Excellent! With the Toggle in hand I moved over to the base of my neck on the left side to start my northern trec and again even with it set on 5 the razor cleaned up whatever stubble that was left on the last pass and there wasn't much! Another excellent pass from the Toggle! I grabbed the #15 for the last ATG pass of this Shave Off and to be honest I really didn't want it to end it was such an enjoyable shave up to this point. Well this pass was an amazing pass and the best one from the Brit! A buttery smooth pass that wiped away any stubble that was left from the last pass. Again going ATG under my nose and around my mouth was no problem at all with this razor. So pass and Shave Off completed! I know this may sound a little corny but I felt somewhat honored to be shaving with two classic razors like these 2 and I think we sometimes forget how good a total shave experience can be using a vintage razor with lots of mojo/character a good smelling soap, a mound of hot lather and a splash of good aftershave! Very very nice!
Post shave:
I rinsed with warm and cold water, splashed on a little unscented Thayers Witch hazel and let it dry while I cleaned up my gear!
Summary:
I then did a face feel with my hands and I was BBS level 2 most all over my face and neck with just a couple of spots being a strong level 1 BBS and that was confirmed by the cotton pad I made out of a cotton ball and the time between doing this Shave Off and writing this review. This Shave Off was a dead even tie! Now I have to go to the scoring system and even that will be very difficult.
Scoring system:
Gillette F4 Toggle
1. Smoothness = 52 points
2. Efficiency = 15 points
3. Balance = 5 points
4. Maneuverability = 5 points
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points
Total score = 81 1/2 points
Gillette Aristocrat #15
1. Smoothness = 52 points
2. Efficiency = 15 points
3. Balance = 5 1/2 points
4. Maneuverability = 5 1/2 points.
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points
Total Score = 82 1/2 points
So the score tells me the British Aristocrat #15 is the winner and moving on to the next round but honestly I'd put them both into the 2nd round if I could as they are both incredible razors and I hate to leave one behind but I can't let my personal emotional connection to both of these razor get in the way of following the rules! So a big congrats to the British Aristocrat #15 OC on the win! Sadly I put the Toggle back in it's case.
Great Shaves my friends!
DB
British 1st Gen #15 OC TTO vs Gillette F 4 Toggle set on 9 and 5
Good morning gents!
So I feel I can finally report on this Shave Off and be confident in my decision on which razor took this Shave Off as it was very close!
I’d like to note that anyone that has either razor knows when your using 60yr plus razors they can variety from one to the other even though they be the exact same model but I’d like to let you all know that both of these two razor started out as excellent conditioned examples but knowing what I know about vintage TTO and Adjustable razors I sent the Aristocrat and the Toggle out to Cap for a complete professional cleaning and tune up and in the case of the Toggle I wanted to have it plated in Rhodium so it went off to Chris after Cap disassembled it. So the short story is both these razors function as new so the results some may get if doing this same comparison may be different than what mine are. Personally I love both these razors and they are both probably my favorite vintage razors along with my Gibbs and RFB and a couple of other Aristocrats as far as shaving goes. Also I’ll add the Brit may be as well balanced a razor as any ever made. At least for me. Also in my opinion the Toggle doesn’t always get the recognition it deserves for being an excellent shaving tool. So going into this Shave Off I knew I’d have my work cut out for me since both are excellent shavers in my book!
I also decided to do the 1st WTG Pass with the Toggle being wide open on setting #9 as I want to compare the smoothness it exhibits compared to not only the Aristocrat but also is it a lot or just a little smoother on the mid level setting #5 so on the ATG pass I’ll be using the Toggle on setting #5
So let’s get started with the Shave Off!
Gear used:
Gillette F4 Toggle
British 1st Gen #15 Aristocrat OC
New Polsilver blades
Wolf Whiskers/Maggards Two band
MDC Fougere Shave Soap
Homemade Fougere AS
Shave Nation Shave bowl
1st Pass WTG - I started my N to S Pass using the Toggle on my right side set on max setting #9 and there is what I’d call mid level blade feel on that setting but with the high polished of the Rhodium SB combined with the MDC slickness it’s still pleasurably smooth yet efficiently taking down my 2 days growth with no drama at all. With its relatively small head profile it’s a breeze getting under my nose and around my mouth. So a excellent pass! Continuing South with the #15 Aristocrat I notice immediately less blade feel but not by a lot but enough to notice easily. Efficiency on my very tough right side neck with its nasty cowlick and weird growth pattern was very good as it to took down my 2 plus days growth with no trouble. I’ll add that this razor feels so right in hand that at times I wish someone would make a modern version of it so I wouldn’t feel like I have to baby this one as much as I do. Also the audible feedback on the Crat was a little quieter than the Toggle set on #9. Another excellent pass. With the 15 in hand I went over to my left side and began my N to S WTG Pass and the #15 is once again outstanding in its balance of efficiency, smoothness and maneuverability. This side of my face is easier to shave as my beard pattern is much more predictable than my right side. This Aristocrat like the Toggle is very easy to get under the nose and around the mouth. So great pass and on to the last WTG with the Toggle. So moving down my neck on my left side with the Toggle I'm reminded how much I love this razor and how much character it has and I remember when it was my Holy Grail razor and it took me a couple of years to obtain my first one and how nervous I was to use it because I was kind of in awe of it to be honest. What I didn't think about or focus on back then is how good of a shaver it is as I really didn't use the first one but only once I think and it was on setting 3 I believe LOL! Anyway back to the pass and it was another very nice easy predictable pass from the Toggle. Smooth and efficient. I rinsed and relathered up. Love the smell of the MDC Fougere and as a soap I really enjoy the great lather I get with it but the puck seems to never go down as it's a very hard soap. One of my favorites for sure. Oh and if you are wondering about the aftershave that has the MDC on it no MDC doesn't make an aftershave but this is a work in progress as I keep playing with my homemade one and little by little I'm getting closer. I'm also starting to really like fan knots as I have become more of a painter when using my favorite soaps and the fan seems to do that better than my bulbs. Maybe it's me but that's what I'm seeing.
2nd Pass ATG - So I was thinking before starting the pass this is where we seperate the men from the boys and boy was I wrong! With the first WTG pass behind me as soon as I began my S to N pass on my right side at the base of my neck with the Aristocrat and as I started taking northbound strokes up I'm like dang there is very little to clean up as the stubble whatever was left was wiped off with lesser blade feel and audible feedback than on the 1st WTG pass. Very smooth but deceptively efficient and it confirmed why this is my most favorite Aristocrat out of all of them! So traveling up to right under my jawline while going over my cowlick and my adams apple presented no resistance or issues at all. Boy did Gillette get it right with this razor! So it's time for the Toggle to take over and work it's way up my face and this time it's only set on #5 and within a stroke or two I notice that both the blade feel and the audible feedback had been turning down when I dialed it down to #5. Still efficient and like the Aristocrat the Toggle on the first pass took down a good amount of stubble so the clean up on this pass was a breeze. The razor was mild enough for me to go ATG under my nose, on my chin and around my mouth and I never felt threatened at all that I might nick myself. I finished this pass fairly quickly and by the way on the large open areas on my neck and my cheeks I used my X pattern which has almost become my go to technique because I find with any razor that's decently efficient after the 1st WTG pass there is not much left on the 2nd pass and this was no different. I scooted through this pass very quickly and what a good one it was! Excellent! With the Toggle in hand I moved over to the base of my neck on the left side to start my northern trec and again even with it set on 5 the razor cleaned up whatever stubble that was left on the last pass and there wasn't much! Another excellent pass from the Toggle! I grabbed the #15 for the last ATG pass of this Shave Off and to be honest I really didn't want it to end it was such an enjoyable shave up to this point. Well this pass was an amazing pass and the best one from the Brit! A buttery smooth pass that wiped away any stubble that was left from the last pass. Again going ATG under my nose and around my mouth was no problem at all with this razor. So pass and Shave Off completed! I know this may sound a little corny but I felt somewhat honored to be shaving with two classic razors like these 2 and I think we sometimes forget how good a total shave experience can be using a vintage razor with lots of mojo/character a good smelling soap, a mound of hot lather and a splash of good aftershave! Very very nice!
Post shave:
I rinsed with warm and cold water, splashed on a little unscented Thayers Witch hazel and let it dry while I cleaned up my gear!
Summary:
I then did a face feel with my hands and I was BBS level 2 most all over my face and neck with just a couple of spots being a strong level 1 BBS and that was confirmed by the cotton pad I made out of a cotton ball and the time between doing this Shave Off and writing this review. This Shave Off was a dead even tie! Now I have to go to the scoring system and even that will be very difficult.
Scoring system:
Gillette F4 Toggle
1. Smoothness = 52 points
2. Efficiency = 15 points
3. Balance = 5 points
4. Maneuverability = 5 points
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points
Total score = 81 1/2 points
Gillette Aristocrat #15
1. Smoothness = 52 points
2. Efficiency = 15 points
3. Balance = 5 1/2 points
4. Maneuverability = 5 1/2 points.
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points
Total Score = 82 1/2 points
So the score tells me the British Aristocrat #15 is the winner and moving on to the next round but honestly I'd put them both into the 2nd round if I could as they are both incredible razors and I hate to leave one behind but I can't let my personal emotional connection to both of these razor get in the way of following the rules! So a big congrats to the British Aristocrat #15 OC on the win! Sadly I put the Toggle back in it's case.
Great Shaves my friends!
DB
Incredible results Frank ! They were dead even in smoothness but the Toggle doesn't advance because of a slight difference in balance and maneuverability. Wow !
BTW That's a beautiful Wolf Whiskers handle Peter made.
BTW That's a beautiful Wolf Whiskers handle Peter made.
Shave Off report
British 1st Gen #15 OC TTO vs Gillette F 4 Toggle set on 9 and 5
Good morning gents!
So I feel I can finally report on this Shave Off and be confident in my decision on which razor took this Shave Off as it was very close!
I’d like to note that anyone that has either razor knows when your using 60yr plus razors they can variety from one to the other even though they be the exact same model but I’d like to let you all know that both of these two razor started out as excellent conditioned examples but knowing what I know about vintage TTO and Adjustable razors I sent the Aristocrat and the Toggle out to Cap for a complete professional cleaning and tune up and in the case of the Toggle I wanted to have it plated in Rhodium so it went off to Chris after Cap disassembled it. So the short story is both these razors function as new so the results some may get if doing this same comparison may be different than what mine are. Personally I love both these razors and they are both probably my favorite vintage razors along with my Gibbs and RFB and a couple of other Aristocrats as far as shaving goes. Also I’ll add the Brit may be as well balanced a razor as any ever made. At least for me. Also in my opinion the Toggle doesn’t always get the recognition it deserves for being an excellent shaving tool. So going into this Shave Off I knew I’d have my work cut out for me since both are excellent shavers in my book!
I also decided to do the 1st WTG Pass with the Toggle being wide open on setting #9 as I want to compare the smoothness it exhibits compared to not only the Aristocrat but also is it a lot or just a little smoother on the mid level setting #5 so on the ATG pass I’ll be using the Toggle on setting #5
So let’s get started with the Shave Off!
Gear used:
Gillette F4 Toggle
British 1st Gen #15 Aristocrat OC
New Polsilver blades
Wolf Whiskers/Maggards Two band
MDC Fougere Shave Soap
Homemade Fougere AS
Shave Nation Shave bowl
1st Pass WTG - I started my N to S Pass using the Toggle on my right side set on max setting #9 and there is what I’d call mid level blade feel on that setting but with the high polished of the Rhodium SB combined with the MDC slickness it’s still pleasurably smooth yet efficiently taking down my 2 days growth with no drama at all. With its relatively small head profile it’s a breeze getting under my nose and around my mouth. So a excellent pass! Continuing South with the #15 Aristocrat I notice immediately less blade feel but not by a lot but enough to notice easily. Efficiency on my very tough right side neck with its nasty cowlick and weird growth pattern was very good as it to took down my 2 plus days growth with no trouble. I’ll add that this razor feels so right in hand that at times I wish someone would make a modern version of it so I wouldn’t feel like I have to baby this one as much as I do. Also the audible feedback on the Crat was a little quieter than the Toggle set on #9. Another excellent pass. With the 15 in hand I went over to my left side and began my N to S WTG Pass and the #15 is once again outstanding in its balance of efficiency, smoothness and maneuverability. This side of my face is easier to shave as my beard pattern is much more predictable than my right side. This Aristocrat like the Toggle is very easy to get under the nose and around the mouth. So great pass and on to the last WTG with the Toggle. So moving down my neck on my left side with the Toggle I'm reminded how much I love this razor and how much character it has and I remember when it was my Holy Grail razor and it took me a couple of years to obtain my first one and how nervous I was to use it because I was kind of in awe of it to be honest. What I didn't think about or focus on back then is how good of a shaver it is as I really didn't use the first one but only once I think and it was on setting 3 I believe LOL! Anyway back to the pass and it was another very nice easy predictable pass from the Toggle. Smooth and efficient. I rinsed and relathered up. Love the smell of the MDC Fougere and as a soap I really enjoy the great lather I get with it but the puck seems to never go down as it's a very hard soap. One of my favorites for sure. Oh and if you are wondering about the aftershave that has the MDC on it no MDC doesn't make an aftershave but this is a work in progress as I keep playing with my homemade one and little by little I'm getting closer. I'm also starting to really like fan knots as I have become more of a painter when using my favorite soaps and the fan seems to do that better than my bulbs. Maybe it's me but that's what I'm seeing.
2nd Pass ATG - So I was thinking before starting the pass this is where we seperate the men from the boys and boy was I wrong! With the first WTG pass behind me as soon as I began my S to N pass on my right side at the base of my neck with the Aristocrat and as I started taking northbound strokes up I'm like dang there is very little to clean up as the stubble whatever was left was wiped off with lesser blade feel and audible feedback than on the 1st WTG pass. Very smooth but deceptively efficient and it confirmed why this is my most favorite Aristocrat out of all of them! So traveling up to right under my jawline while going over my cowlick and my adams apple presented no resistance or issues at all. Boy did Gillette get it right with this razor! So it's time for the Toggle to take over and work it's way up my face and this time it's only set on #5 and within a stroke or two I notice that both the blade feel and the audible feedback had been turning down when I dialed it down to #5. Still efficient and like the Aristocrat the Toggle on the first pass took down a good amount of stubble so the clean up on this pass was a breeze. The razor was mild enough for me to go ATG under my nose, on my chin and around my mouth and I never felt threatened at all that I might nick myself. I finished this pass fairly quickly and by the way on the large open areas on my neck and my cheeks I used my X pattern which has almost become my go to technique because I find with any razor that's decently efficient after the 1st WTG pass there is not much left on the 2nd pass and this was no different. I scooted through this pass very quickly and what a good one it was! Excellent! With the Toggle in hand I moved over to the base of my neck on the left side to start my northern trec and again even with it set on 5 the razor cleaned up whatever stubble that was left on the last pass and there wasn't much! Another excellent pass from the Toggle! I grabbed the #15 for the last ATG pass of this Shave Off and to be honest I really didn't want it to end it was such an enjoyable shave up to this point. Well this pass was an amazing pass and the best one from the Brit! A buttery smooth pass that wiped away any stubble that was left from the last pass. Again going ATG under my nose and around my mouth was no problem at all with this razor. So pass and Shave Off completed! I know this may sound a little corny but I felt somewhat honored to be shaving with two classic razors like these 2 and I think we sometimes forget how good a total shave experience can be using a vintage razor with lots of mojo/character a good smelling soap, a mound of hot lather and a splash of good aftershave! Very very nice!
Post shave:
I rinsed with warm and cold water, splashed on a little unscented Thayers Witch hazel and let it dry while I cleaned up my gear!
Summary:
I then did a face feel with my hands and I was BBS level 2 most all over my face and neck with just a couple of spots being a strong level 1 BBS and that was confirmed by the cotton pad I made out of a cotton ball and the time between doing this Shave Off and writing this review. This Shave Off was a dead even tie! Now I have to go to the scoring system and even that will be very difficult.
Scoring system:
Gillette F4 Toggle
1. Smoothness = 52 points
2. Efficiency = 15 points
3. Balance = 5 points
4. Maneuverability = 5 points
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points
Total score = 81 1/2 points
Gillette Aristocrat #15
1. Smoothness = 52 points
2. Efficiency = 15 points
3. Balance = 5 1/2 points
4. Maneuverability = 5 1/2 points.
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points
Total Score = 82 1/2 points
So the score tells me the British Aristocrat #15 is the winner and moving on to the next round but honestly I'd put them both into the 2nd round if I could as they are both incredible razors and I hate to leave one behind but I can't let my personal emotional connection to both of these razor get in the way of following the rules! So a big congrats to the British Aristocrat #15 OC on the win! Sadly I put the Toggle back in it's case.
Great Shaves my friends!
DB
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That the "toggle" was so close is a tribute to how well it was made. That said, it would be hard for anyone to not favor a 1930's Aristocrat. I actually feel a bit sorry that you had to choose because I am sure it was a challenge. Thanks Mr. Frank.
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