Micromatic Monday

[Twelvefret]

Yes to being older than Gem Jr Bar -- that's typically a 1907 (if I remember correctly) and beyond. As to the razor you just sent -- THAT looks like my 1880 Model 1B....the only difference is that one looks pristine and has an impressive wooden handle, mine is in....let's call it "user condition"....actually, mine is more like heavily-used "user condition" with a metal handle that has as '76 patent date. No blade stops on these babies, and mine has fixed (no adjustment possible) side blade clips. Strangely enough, my Kampfe Star wedge blades won't fit (they seem to be a touch too wide), and as I think mine is even too wide to take a modern GEM blade. Could just be mine has an issue -- although I don't really see any damage or crooked parts -- so I'm wondering if WAY back then the wedge blades were slightly smaller and a little more "custom". There is an identical (in looks) Star that has adjustable blade side clips (Model 2B), according to Waits' -- can't tell from the photos, but that one may have the adjustable clips. Either way, I think it would be a great acquisition, but I wanted to give you what I knew about it.

You guys and your antique store finds....I was on a driving vacation through 3 different states, stopped at well over a dozen Antique Stores, and didn't find ONE, not ONE lousy razor....not even old beat-up super speed.....couldn't believe it. I'll stop with this rant....I'm pretty sure I've yelled about this many times before. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy for you.....just feeling sorry for me!

I find those razors on the side of the road where folks have thrown them out all the time.....LOL!!

 

[Flintstone65]

Tomorrow or Thursday should work for the Star shave. So this would be older than the Gem Jr. Bar?

Here is one I really hope to find for next to nothing at an antique store.

View attachment 991901

Got a preference? Either tomorrow or Thursday works for me.

 

[GAW9576]

Yes to being older than Gem Jr Bar -- that's typically a 1907 (if I remember correctly) and beyond. As to the razor you just sent -- THAT looks like my 1880 Model 1B....the only difference is that one looks pristine and has an impressive wooden handle, mine is in....let's call it "user condition"....actually, mine is more like heavily-used "user condition" with a metal handle that has as '76 patent date. No blade stops on these babies, and mine has fixed (no adjustment possible) side blade clips. Strangely enough, my Kampfe Star wedge blades won't fit (they seem to be a touch too wide), and as I think mine is even too wide to take a modern GEM blade. Could just be mine has an issue -- although I don't really see any damage or crooked parts -- so I'm wondering if WAY back then the wedge blades were slightly smaller and a little more "custom". There is an identical (in looks) Star that has adjustable blade side clips (Model 2B), according to Waits' -- can't tell from the photos, but that one may have the adjustable clips. Either way, I think it would be a great acquisition, but I wanted to give you what I knew about it.

You guys and your antique store finds....I was on a driving vacation through 3 different states, stopped at well over a dozen Antique Stores, and didn't find ONE, not ONE lousy razor....not even old beat-up super speed.....couldn't believe it. I'll stop with this rant....I'm pretty sure I've yelled about this many times before. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy for you.....just feeling sorry for me!

Just to be clear that one with the wooden handle is one I would like to have it one I have.

Got a preference? Either tomorrow or Thursday works for me.

I didn't end up shaving today so I think Wednesday would be good.

 

[Flintstone65]

Just to be clear that one with the wooden handle is one I would like to have it one I have.

I didn't end up shaving today so I think Wednesday would be good.

Perfect....I didn't end up shaving today either, so Wednesday (tomorrow) is perfect! And I'll admit that when I first saw that pic, I immediately jumped to the wrong-conclusion that you were about to have access to it. I always wrongly assume (much like @Twelvefret jokingly indicated) that folks are finding amazing razors by the "side of the road"

 

[GAW9576]

Perfect....I didn't end up shaving today either, so Wednesday (tomorrow) is perfect! And I'll admit that when I first saw that pic, I immediately jumped to the wrong-conclusion that you were about to have access to it. I always wrongly assume (much like @Twelvefret jokingly indicated) that folks are finding amazing razors by the "side of the road"

That's kinda funny. That is just a Google image search image.

So for tomorrow with the Star I do have should I use a Gem SS that I have already used 3 times, cork a new Gem SS or go with a new uncorked Blade?
I'm thinking of pairing it with my Gillette ABC scroll.

 

[Flintstone65]

That's kinda funny. That is just a Google image search image.

So for tomorrow with the Star I do have should I use a Gem SS that I have already used 3 times, cork a new Gem SS or go with a new uncorked Blade?
I'm thinking of pairing it with my Gillette ABC scroll.

I recommend the GEM SS used 3 times -- I have one used 5 times that I'll use. I'll either be using the Model 7A (which is roughly 4 years earlier than yours) or Model 14A (which is supposedly only a couple of years after yours). I'm not sure which one I'll pair with it....probably the AutoStrop B2.

 

[Flintstone65]

That's kinda funny. That is just a Google image search image.

So for tomorrow with the Star I do have should I use a Gem SS that I have already used 3 times, cork a new Gem SS or go with a new uncorked Blade?
I'm thinking of pairing it with my Gillette ABC scroll.

Oh yeah, and I wouldn't use a shim.

 

[GAW9576]

Oh yeah, and I wouldn't use a shim.

Cool. Unmodified Gem stainless steel blade and this will be its fourth use.
So from what I see in the picture from the Waits book, the star I have is listed as 1900. That's the day I'm going to go with because my house was built in 1900

 

[Flintstone65]

Cool. Unmodified Gem stainless steel blade and this will be its fourth use.
So from what I see in the picture from the Waits book, the star I have is listed as 1900. That's the day I'm going to go with because my house was built in 1900

That's how I use the Waits' dates on these as well -- most of the time he's using patent dates for the razors he covers, and in the case of these Lather Catchers, I think that's the way to go. I also have fits keeping track of the various models....my short-term memory isn't what it used to be, and I'm constantly having to refresh it when it comes to most things.

I'll be shaving this morning. Along with pics of the setup (and some close-ups of the blade alignment), I'll also try to document technique and observations as best I can.

 

[GAW9576]

Today's shave was much better @Flintstone65 and I noticed a few interesting things mid-shave, but first the process.

Hot shower prep with Noxzema wash.
Pre lather with a little shave soap and let it sit for a bit.
Lightly lather up some Mer shaving Mysore Sandalwood with my two band badger then face lather the rest of the way.
First pass WTG with Star lather catcher loaded with a 4th use Gem SS
Second pass ATG with Gillette ABC Scroll and a 5th use Bluebird.
Witchazle and Tolsom aftershave splash them a cool water rinse.
This was a much much more comfortable shave than the last one when I used the wedge adapter. I pay close attention to using light pressure and riding the cap so to speak.

I can't say the whole difference was the non adapted blade because this blade was broken in, however this is what I noticed mid shave and why I don't think I will bother with the adapter again, at least in this razor.

The blade naturally sits high in the back. It seems to me if you drew a line through the center of a wedge blade this is about how it would ride in the razor.
Here are two more photos at different angles.

 

[Flintstone65]

@GAW9576 -- Great photos and I'm reallly glad to hear your shave was better!!! I completely agree with your assessment of how the blade is riding and an actual wedge blade....I had an "aha" moment as well. My setup today was:
Kampfe Bros Star (1902, Model 14B) with a GEM SS PTFE Blade (6) | British Gillette 7 O'Clock New (Long Comb) with Voskhod (1) | Men's Soap Company Bay Rum | Jayaruh #270 Brush (Boar Synth) | Krampert's Finest Acadian Spice Bay Rum A/S

First 2 passes were done with the Star, 3rd pass and touch-up with the Brit. Here are my photos, then a few lessons-learned on this shave:

This is not one of my Star "Beauty Queens", but she's not as "harsh" looking as the camera would suggest. The Gillette 7 O'Clock is a great razor....those Brits did an awesome job with Gillette's designs. Now on to the shave, and specifically what I discovered as I was being very deliberate and focused on this shave:

1. After a couple of strokes into the first pass I realized I had not put the back clip into place -- insert severely embarrassed emoji here. The blade hadn't moved back (the side clips keep it place pretty well), but something felt "off" -- I suspect it was because the clip helps with the angle (as you noted). But I also felt a slight vibration in those strokes as well, and that leads me to my next observation.
   
   
2. Blade rigidity. A dog-whistle of a term for some on the forum -- you watch, they may come a running since I've mentioned that term. While I like to tease them, I tend to agree with them. The difference between a super-comfortable shave (Micromatic and AutoStrop) seems to be that the blade is LOCKED into place....and I mean locked left, right, up and down. I think the challenge with the Star's are they can only touch/lock the blade at very specific points....this may be why the GEM Jr Bar shaves more comfortably and easily than my Star's -- at least so far. And when you think about it, the wedge blade with it's mass and shape, doesn't need a cage to keep it in place and vibration free, it's like a sharpened "rock" that just needs a little holder.
   
   
3. So my Star shave (and admittedly it was the first with this model, and the first Star shave I've had in quite a few weeks), was so much more "unpolished" than I had been used to with my AutoStrop, Micromatics, Damaskeenes, etc.; still a good shave, but I had forgotten how much blade feel you can get. And this may play into point #2, but I prefer less growth when shaving with this razor. Some razors can go-to-town on long stubble/hair (most slants, Micromatics), but I find longish stubble can be uncomfortable to cut with this razor....not tuggy or pully, just rougher than with my MMOC.
   
   
4. As for angle, I played with that for a bit. While I maintain a shallow angle, it's definitely not with the handle parallel to the floor. In fact, it also feels closer to a shallow DE angle than a really shallow SE angle. Short strokes works best for me, and I really hear that toast-scraping sound when I'm using these.

More and more I'm convinced that a thread dedicated to collecting and shaving with these beauties would be a great resource to all of us. I'm close to getting off the dime and starting it up. This was a great exercise and I learned a bit more about these very cool razors.

 

[GAW9576]

Interesting observations and interesting differences in just 2 years between our razors ( as far as we can tell ) and funny enough I was looking at the pictures thinking, I can see a back clip on that razor but it doesn't look like he is using it, I wonder if it's damaged or if there's a benefit to not using it with the Gem blades.
I'll have to do a few more shaves with this razor pair it with some of my Gem razors for direct comparison.
Does your blade angle seem to match mine once you engage the back clip?

 

[Flintstone65]

Interesting observations and interesting differences in just 2 years between our razors ( as far as we can tell ) and funny enough I was looking at the pictures thinking, I can see a back clip on that razor but it doesn't look like he is using it, I wonder if it's damaged or if there's a benefit to not using it with the Gem blades.
I'll have to do a few more shaves with this razor pair it with some of my Gem razors for direct comparison.
Does your blade angle seem to match mine once you engage the back clip?

I believe so. I noticed the blade had moved vertically when I engaged the clip. There are a couple of big differences in the frame of mine versus yours: the first is mine has a hinge which allows me to open the razor, and the second is that my side blade clips are spring based, but Waits' says your side clips have blade adjustment screws. I have a couple of models with those screws -- they look to be the size used in eyeglass frames (in fact I've heard of some folks replacing them using those). Are you using those screws at all either before or after you put the blade in? Just curious. My guess is they were pretty helpful for loading wedge blades where the edge had receded some and the thicker part of the wedge needed to be accommodated.

 

[GAW9576]

I believe so. I noticed the blade had moved vertically when I engaged the clip. There are a couple of big differences in the frame of mine versus yours: the first is mine has a hinge which allows me to open the razor, and the second is that my side blade clips are spring based, but Waits' says your side clips have blade adjustment screws. I have a couple of models with those screws -- they look to be the size used in eyeglass frames (in fact I've heard of some folks replacing them using those). Are you using those screws at all either before or after you put the blade in? Just curious. My guess is they were pretty helpful for loading wedge blades where the edge had receded some and the thicker part of the wedge needed to be accommodated.

No screws on mine just a different style of spring than yours also mine does open but in a different way.

 

[Flintstone65]

No screws on mine just a different style of spring than yours also mine does open but in a different way.

View attachment 992078 View attachment 992079 View attachment 992080

Man, that is one beautiful razor -- you did REALLY well! Seriously, yours makes me want to start polishing mine up -- even with polish, I'm not sure any of mine will shine up that so well. And so much for Mr. Waits' -- probably didn't have access to every model, or maybe the models had slightly different characteristics (like blade clips vs screws). I've got one with a flip-top, but mine doesn't have any blade stops (it's a few years earlier).

 

[GAW9576]

Micromatic+ on a Monday evening

Brassy gold bumpless MMOC, corked a new PTFE
PBOCS, Rapira Platinum Lux (3)
BOSC Special Reserve AC
GAWgeous olive handled boar

View attachment 991722

Two pass and touch up on about two days of growth. BBS except a bit of the maelstrom that just wouldn’t let go. Very nice to cork a new Gem and get up close in perfect comfort.

Somehow I missed this one. Great setup. Glad you like the brush handle.

 

[Flintstone65]

Just a quick announcement: The Association of Lather Catchers: TALC has been officially launched. Just as the Kampfe Bros razors inspired multiple generations of GEMS, this Micromatic Monday thread has inspired many of us to learn about and experience many different razors; and this new group is a tangible example of that inspiration. Thank you all, and I hope you'll stop by as this new group takes off!

In the meantime, it's only Thursday and I'm already starting to think about the upcoming Micromatic Monday / GEMonday -- I hope you are too!!!

 

[Suhrim21]

I hear you guys talk about lather catcher a lot is that a specific razor or just a nick name for the gem single edge razors.

 

[Flintstone65]

I hear you guys talk about lather catcher a lot is that a specific razor or just a nick name for the gem single edge razors.

It's a style of razor, you can find a definition here: The Association of Lather Catchers: TALC.

The very first mention of the term "safety razor" was in the patent submitted for the 1880 razor by the Kampfe Bros and it was, you guessed it, a Lather Catcher. They are beautiful razors....many are ornate looking, and there are over 50 different ones (according to Waits' Compendium) from various manufacturers around the world.

 

[GAW9576]

Today's Gem Saturday shave.

Hot shower pre.
Pre Lather with small amount of soap rubbed in with fingers.
Cyril and Salter wild rose on two band badger.
Gem 1912 for cheeks and back of neck with 5th flip Gem SS ptfe used in all three razors.
One side of neck WTG 1900 Kampfe Bros Star
Other side of neck WTG Gem Jr. Bar
Used the Gem Jr. Bar and Star for ATG passes on alternate sides of the neck.
Whitchazle and Tolsom aftershave splash.
Cool water rinse.

All three razors performed excellent. The 1912 did very well on my cheeks and my wife used it to get the back of my neck.
The Star and Jr. Bar where both used "riding the cap" with an extra light touch even tickling my neck frequently. And delivered a very smooth comfortable shave. The Jr. Bar felt ever so slightly smoother and the Star was ever so slightly more efficient, especially ATG.