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Australian Private Reserve - A Guide to APR scents

So...I shaved with Alfredus Choice this morning and as always...the F1 base is one of the slickest in my den. Maybe the slickest period. Awesome scent that doesn't smell like any other soap out there. That said...if you are looking for low structure lather, this won't get you there. For me, that is a feature, but for others that will be a bug.
 
Received Torchwood and Fenchurch and shaved with the latter this morning. Both are amazing scents. Fenchurch is elegance in a puck. And Torchwood is no slouch either but it is more expressive than Fenchurch. That said...as good as both of these soaps are (and the performance is outstanding as both are F2 base), the scents just don't match the descriptors IMO...which is typical for APR. If I had to make comparisons...Fenchurch is in the same scent family as APR Mycroft and Oleo El Caballero and MAYBE M&McN Ouroboros. Torchwood smells a LOT like Noble Otter Flying Hide, so while it has deep leather notes it also has some lift to make it appropriate in very warm weather.
 
Received Torchwood and Fenchurch and shaved with the latter this morning. Both are amazing scents. Fenchurch is elegance in a puck. And Torchwood is no slouch either but it is more expressive than Fenchurch. That said...as good as both of these soaps are (and the performance is outstanding as both are F2 base), the scents just don't match the descriptors IMO...which is typical for APR. If I had to make comparisons...Fenchurch is in the same scent family as APR Mycroft and Oleo El Caballero and MAYBE M&McN Ouroboros. Torchwood smells a LOT like Noble Otter Flying Hide, so while it has deep leather notes it also has some lift to make it appropriate in very warm weather.
I have been wondering about Fenchurch...it looks like a great scent.

As to APR in general, I think it is a top tier soap line. You just have to like the scent to make the price work. I have Ozymandias and that scent certainly works for me. Wonderful stuff. I am less certain about Florian...at the time I used this soap and aftershave, it overwhelmed my nose. I had been having some problems in the nasal area due to allergies so I will have to revisit that soap and give it a second chance. Still unused in the bullpen is La Violetta. All of these are in the F2 base which I think is really excellent.
 
I don't find price to be much of an issue. Most other artisans that sell around $20 per puck ship 4oz or 100g. APR comes with 125g, so about 5oz and Maggard sells then for $25 per puck. That means it is only marginally more expensive than Oleo for example and likely less per ounce than GD...totally fair in my book.

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Just used apr for the first time.

Bought Florian at maggards.

Outstanding. Big wow factor on the lather. Similar to wk donkey milk or dg buffalo base.

Smells fresh and clean. Kind of like my Tcheon Fung Sing uncle Walter.

I love everything about this soap. I’m glad I bought it.
 
All. I know there are some who will never buy these soaps due to a recent dustup between the owner and one of his best customers, but I continue to really enjoy these soaps for both their performance and scents. I won't deal with the performance here because I like both F1 and F2 tremendously much. But when it comes to scent, I want to see if we can help each other. In my experience (owning 6 APR soaps) the scents never really quite smell like you would expect them to off the descriptions. That is not to say they are not excellent scents...just that some of them smell unexpected.

But since I don't think the descriptors are particularly helpful, I want to start a resource for others to use to determine which scents to puchase.

So in the spirit of helping APR users out which soaps to choose (since I have never seen a sample offered), here are the first few entries based on the APR soaps I own and use. Please feel free to add your comments and I will work them into this OP.

Torchwood (F2 base)

APR Description:
Strongly masculine. We have curated the finest woods on offer and built with them something bold, smooth and luxuriant.

Torchwood opens with redolent notes of Black Plum and sun dried Apricot in accord with softly camphoraceous Texas Cedarwood, Rosewood, Teak and Mahogany. Sweet tobacco flower accompanies the gentle leathers to provide depth and richness to the selection of woods. At the base of the fragrance we have used Sandalwood and ethically sourced Civet in concert with Hyrax Absolute to form a radiant and honeyed musk base of refinement and difference.

Top Notes Include: Cedar Atlas, Dried Apricot & Black Plum
Heart Notes Include: Texas Cedarwood, Rosewood, Mahogany, Tobacco, Teak & Leather
Base Notes Include: Sandalwood, Civet, Hyrax, Patchouli & Animal Musk

User Description:
Strongly masculine and bold for sure. When I first smelled this, I thought it smelled similar to CRSW Bay/Bergamot and very similar to Noble Otter Flying Hide. But as I kept using this, I realized what I originally interpreted as leather and bergamot was actually the civet, hyrax and musk. In my opinion, that is what this scent is all about...a very animalic scent that is borderline addictive after multiple use. I wasn't sure about this in the beginning, but I really love it now. That said...probably more of a spring/summer scent IMO with a fall application as well. But it comes across much fresher than I would have expected based on the wood descriptors.

Fenchurch (F2 base)

APR Description:
Fenchurch is a skillfully textured, masculine composition built on an indulgent base that is encompassing, refined and luxurious.

A note of important documents, paper and vellum. Warm balsams meet sweet vanilla, while potent animal musk accents fragrant patchouli and opulent tuberose to establish a solid foundation. We don’t do compromise.

Beautiful leathers, both old and new sit atop the base notes defining layers of texture and experience, sweet tobacco flower is in accord with dark tobacco leaf. Fenchurch explores the many varieties of fine things.

Whiskey completes the proceedings with the narcotic notes of Heliotropin and nuances of sweet plum.

Top Notes Include: Whiskey, Heliotrope & Dark Plum
Heart Notes Include: Leathers, Suede, Tobacco Flower & Dark Tobacco Leaf
Base Notes Include: Papyrus, Benzoin, Labdanum, Vanilla, Animal Musk, Patchouli & Tuberose

User Description:
Unlike other F2 base scents, I find Fenchurch to be the most refined and elegant and even lightly scented soaps. The most noticeable elements are whiskey, tobacco flower and patchouli/papyrus which makes for a very warm and soft scent that is strangely reminiscent of the smell of play doh from my childhood. It is a soothing and comforting scent that I like to use on weekends or during periods of colder weather although it is perfectly suitable to be used during warmer weather, as well.


La Violetta (F2 base)

APR Description:
A celebration with a festival of lavenders, Egyptian and French Violet, Iris, Pink Pepper, Réunion Geranium, Tonka Bean, Patchouli, Oakmoss & Sandalwood set atop a tenacious and beautiful musk accord.

A classic fragrance opening of French Lemon Verbena & Calabrian Bergamot provide elegance before receding to the finest Lavenders, resting on the beauty of the base.

Top Notes Include: Lemon Verbena (France), Bergamot
Heart Notes Include: French, Spanish & Australian Lavenders, Réunion
Geranium, French Violet, Heliotrope, Accacia & Pink Pepper
Base Notes Include: Sandalwood Mysore, Egyptian Violet, Iris, Oakmoss,
Tonka & White Musk.

User Description:

Another powerhouse, strongly scented soap. This one is fairly straightforward with citrus lavender dominating the action with a base of iris. I really don't detect much woodiness or pepper. It is realistically a Fougere scent IMO and a very well done one at that.

Mycroft (F1 base)

APR Description:
Brother of Sherlock Holmes, resident of one 221B Baker St as penned by Conan Doyle in his seminal texts on the grand detective.

We have designed a stylish and exacting Autumnal scent with rich clear notes of Juniper resting
effortlessly on Bergamot and a dalliance of Jasmine Grandiflorium Absolute.

For the base we have engaged no less, the rich narcotic Labdanum Absolute as is truly fitting, a potent and raunchy Animal Musk and the sweet intoxicating coumarin drenched Tonka Absolute. A thoroughly intoxicating, sophisticated and effortlessly elegant fragrance for Autumn and Spring and one that is definitely higher minds.

Top Notes: Calabrian Bergamot, Jasmine Absolute
Heart Notes: Juniper
Base Notes: Labandum, Musk, Tonka, Vetiver

User Description:
Like most F1 base scents, this is a super complex scent that I would actually classify as a woodsy scent that is best paired with a sandalwood/cedar EdT before leaving the house (think Dyptique Tam Dao or Floris Santal). It reeks (figuratively speaking) of elegance and British understatement. When I smell this, the image of a library with really old books and leather chairs comes to mind (even though there is no leather in this scent). I certainly do not really perceive any Bergamot in this at all, so this is more of a fall and winter scent for most, I assume.

Winterfall (F1 base)

APR Description:
The traditional masculine Chypre (pronounced sheepr) embodies a sophisticated design of woody, vanilla notes evocative of an ages old forest in winter. Stated simply this fragrance embodies elegance and refinement while retaining a masculine presence and air.

APR have based their composition on a historical Chypre formulation, but in keeping with Australian Private Reserve’s intentions they have produced a contemporary fragrance design utilising Oudh and Sandalwood as an inspiration for something quite special.

On application an accord of Sicilian Bergamot and cypress presents, gently receding to warm intoxicating Labdanum and sweet Rosewood, shortly thereafter something very special emerges and endures for hours…

Top notes:Sicilian Bergamot, Cypress
Heart Notes: Labdanum, Rosewood
Base notes: Agarwood, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Musk

User Description:
Another very soft scent. Maybe the softest of the APR scents I have tried. The vibe here is really one of white rum, egg nogg and nutmeg. I can see where there is a woody influence, but it is an intensely creamy scent that will at first befuddle you before winning you over. One of my favorite cold weather soaps.

Alfredus Choice (F1 base)

APR Description:

A bold, rich elegant chypre with a heart of rich resinous cedar and damp, earthy spice. The product of a choice that relies on an intricate chemistry and execution of design.

It’s rich and woody, with notes of deep teak, rich teas scaffolded with deep white grapefruit. It speaks to a choice of sophistication, style and presence and wears particularly well in Autumn, enduring through the coldest winter.

Top Notes: White Grapefruit, Bergamot, Basil
Heart: Cedarwood, Ginger, Nutmeg, Violet, Lavender
Base Notes: Ambergris, Tonka, Oakmoss, Mysore Sandalwood

User Description:
The most powerful of the F1 scents I have tried to date. The grapefruit, woods and earthiness are what shine through in this unique scent. I really think earthiness and green/herbal notes make this so darn interesting and it reminds me ever so slightly of a similar level of complexity a Eufros Fougere even though this is definitely not a Fougere.
 
Your description of Mycroft really intrigued me. Thank you for posting your take on their scents. If I was to get an APR soap in the future I was leaning towards Fenchurch, but I now may need to rethink my selection.
 
Thank you @steffenapelz for a well put together compendium. Based on your recommendation I got a tub of La Violetta; my first APR and I can see that they are done differently and really unique in their scent composition.
La Violetta was strong lemon verbena but i got no oak moss in base, as a result it was a strong but bright zesty smelling soap without being woodsy. So many flower scents might lead one to believe it is a girlie soap but that is not the case. It is well put together and just the soap for a hot summer day.
For the soap performance I find it works as good as any of top artisan soap but it is no GD soap. It is plenty slick and produce a lather that seem to sit 'light' on skin and offer acceptable post shave skin feel which is OK for me. The soap jar is big enough to load the brush.
 
Thank you @steffenapelz for a well put together compendium. Based on your recommendation I got a tub of La Violetta; my first APR and I can see that they are done differently and really unique in their scent composition.
La Violetta was strong lemon verbena but i got no oak moss in base, as a result it was a strong but bright zesty smelling soap without being woodsy. So many flower scents might lead one to believe it is a girlie soap but that is not the case. It is well put together and just the soap for a hot summer day.
For the soap performance I find it works as good as any of top artisan soap but it is no GD soap. It is plenty slick and produce a lather that seem to sit 'light' on skin and offer acceptable post shave skin feel which is OK for me. The soap jar is big enough to load the brush.

Glad I could be of help, HereticHermit. Agree with performance...excellent performer, but not GD level. But the difference is small and in some areas I like APR better than GD (loading, texture in tub and scents). I think the really tough thing about APR is that unlike other artisans who describe their scents very well, APR is really difficult to figure out because what is in the tub is often completely different from the notes on their website. I am even thinking of getting Ozymandias now despite the fact that I don't like fruit in my soaps, but Torchwood says it has plum and apricot, but I just cannot even smell a hint of that. You just have to trust that APR know what they are doing on their scents, and so far I have not been let down with the 6 scents I own...and it is probably the soap I want to reach for every morning at this point.
 
Thanks for posting, @steffenapelz! Very helpful.

Glad you find it helpful. I also ordered Bombora and Ozymandias last night, so next week, I will add those two reviews. I will not buy tubs of any of the Fougere scents because I am worried I'd be wasting money since I traditionally don't like Fougere scents enough that I will use them frequently (Eufros Fougere is the lone exception).

That said...if any of you want me to review the Fougere scents, feel free to mail me a small sample off your puck and I'll add the review here for us to discuss.
 
Your description of Mycroft really intrigued me. Thank you for posting your take on their scents. If I was to get an APR soap in the future I was leaning towards Fenchurch, but I now may need to rethink my selection.

Both scents are awesome. But Fenchurch is in the F2 base, which is easier to lather to perfection whereas Mycroft will require a touch more work. I suggest taking that into consideration.
 
I have three APR soaps and love them all.
Florian and Bombora are definitely summer type scents. Florian has that lemony-floral type smell, where Bombora just reminds me of the ocean.

However, Fougere Trois is absolutely MAGNIFICENT. A must try IMO.


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I have three APR soaps and love them all.
Florian and Bombora are definitely summer type scents. Florian has that lemony-floral type smell, where Bombora just reminds me of the ocean.

However, Fougere Trois is absolutely MAGNIFICENT. A must try IMO.


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Dang. I have Florian and bombora. I want fougere Trois.

Your descriptions of Florian and bombora are spot on.
 
Dang. I have Florian and bombora. I want fougere Trois.

Your descriptions of Florian and bombora are spot on.

I bought the Fougere Trois splash as well which is my first splash and the first time I wore it was complimented. There’s a part of me that wishes I bought the EdP as well. I’ll try and think of a way to describe the scent - in my head I’m thinking ‘musky rainforest’ haha.


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Bombora (F2 base)

APR Description:
AP Reserve is proud to announce our first Citrus Aquatic fragrance for the new season, Bombora is a powerful, fresh and sharp citrus Aquatic encompassing cold, clean oceans and fresh sea air with a suggestion of salt water and ozonic aquatica.
The fragrance opens with the crispness of French Cedrat and the sharp citrus of Tangerine dressed with Meyer Lemon, Bergamot and tart citrus Lime for a refreshing and very modern aquatic experience.

The dry down sees muted narcotic florals, hinting at a darkness beneath the waves through to the dry down of Ambergris, fresh sea-weed and algae and hints of Woods and clean white musk.

Top Notes Include: Tangerine, Cedrat, Lemon, Bergamot, Lime & Aquatic Notes
Heart Notes Include: Sea Breeze, Narcissus, Freesia, Aldehydes, Watermelon & Ozone
Base Notes Include: Ambergris (NZ), Seaweed, Algae, Driftwood, Amber & White Musk

User Description:
Just like most APR scents, this is a very complex one and I find it hard to pick out just one or two individual notes. Overall, this scent is a day at the beach in a puck. Cool ocean breeze, sunscreen, driftwood, salty air and a slice of watermelon in my hand is what it evokes straight from my childhood. It all combines to make one of my favorite scents not just from APR, but of any soap I own and beyond that...maybe of any scent I own including EdTs. In terms of particular notes, I would say the citrus and zone are maybe most prominent, but that is only by a hair.
 
I would also add it might pair well with Creed Millesime Imperiale. Bombora's notes are very close to MI according to Fragrantica. I haven't smelled MI in a while, but that was the main reason I bought Bombora. When I opened the jar, I recognized the smell.
 
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