Simplest wood scale finish/sealer

[bpm5cm]

What is the simplest way to seal pores and finish a wood scale? I started making a set and since I have more time in front of a computer than I have access to actually working on things, I started reading and reading. I feel like I've made matters worse for myself. I already "ruined" the first set of scales by mixing different things I had read and being impatient. I read about wet sanding with your choice of finish, and I read about different oils and drying/nondrying and this and that and ended up sanding them with mineral oil. I realized the second I put mineral oil on the first one that I didn't intend to do that because it's non-drying and I don't particularly want to have to re-oil and wax them all the time. I know I can salvage them, but I might use them temporarily just to practice peening. I've read about tung oil (vs tung oil finish), CA, Shellac, BLO. But it seems like I read one website where someone is using something as a finish then another website says its just to seal and needs a "finish" over it.

I'm trying to keep cost down as much as possible until I know I'm going to actually have time to do this more often. Currently I have a little bit of CA, spar and poly urethane, "tung oil finish", mineral spirits. The first set of scales are red oak I had lying around, I'm working on making a set in walnut, both fairly large pores. So if I can use what I have or purchase just 1 things to fill pores and finish, what would it be?

 

[totorlekiller]

I find that CA keeps the personality of the wood use. It also has the merit of working on wood that are too dense for oil, which is not relevant here, but if you get good at doing CA, you can reuse the technic on any wood then.

 

[sig303]

+1 for the CA. Simply and effective.

 

[bluesman 7]

Tru-Oil is a very easy finish. Usually multiple coats with 0000 steel wool between, but the coats are dead simple. Just rub some on with your fingers and let dry.

 

[Doc226]

CA is awesome but not an easy finish to get right.

 

[bpm5cm]

Thanks for all the input. I might try tru-oil for the time being. I've read CA should be used after sealing the pores, otherwise I'd be all for it. Is there a reason polyurethane or spar urethane seems to be uncommon? I saw it in one of these posts where someone discussed using a spray can and people seemed to think it would work. I'm slowly learning that I don't know anything about woodworking.

 

[Clay S]

Thanks for all the input. I might try tru-oil for the time being. I've read CA should be used after sealing the pores, otherwise I'd be all for it. Is there a reason polyurethane or spar urethane seems to be uncommon? I saw it in one of these posts where someone discussed using a spray can and people seemed to think it would work. I'm slowly learning that I don't know anything about woodworking.

I would hate the feel of polyurethane, and it often yellows with age.

 

[Doc226]

Here is a CA finish, it makes the grain pop, this one looks 3-D

 

[bpm5cm]

So I was talking with a coworker of mine who seems to have done more woodworking than I and he said he's used ModgePodge as a finish before on some longboards. I'm curious if that has ever come up or if anyone has tried it? I'm still planning on trying the Tru-oil until I know I'll have the time/space to practice the CA finish, but I thought it would be worth bringing it up.

 

[Clay S]

Here is a CA finish, it makes the grain pop, this one looks 3-D

The photo didn't post.

 

[Doc226]

The photo didn't post.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Clay S]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome finish! Was worth the wait to see!

 

[toccosupreme]

What is CA?

 

[Clay S]

What is CA?

cyanoacrylate - super glue.

 

[toccosupreme]

cyanoacrylate - super glue.

Gotcha. That wouldn’t have ever occurred to me. Thank you.

 

[Esox]

Quick and easy working with wood.

Find a piece of wire or something and insert it through a hole in the scale meant for a pin. Curl the wire on both ends and tie a string to them. Hold the string and dip the entire scale in poly then hang and let dry. Make sure you put something under it to catch the drops.

Use the wire so the string wont stick to the poly or leave a mark in it as it cures. The curled ends will hold the string away from the scale. Anything would work, a small bolt, nail, whatever, as long as the string can be tied to it in such a way it wont contact the poly as it cures.

When it has cured, there will be one small bump on the bottom of the hung piece where the last drop didnt drip off. A few seconds with wet sandpaper will remove it. Depending on the poly used and the cure time of it, there may be a buildup around the supporting wire, screw, nail or whatever. That can be easily removed the same way.
I did much the same to coat my Omega boar brush handle with a string around the base of the knot. Its been fine for two years so far.

 

[Esox]

I would hate the feel of polyurethane, and it often yellows with age.

Good point. Poly does impart colour to material.

This is a bench made from raw Cherry.

With one coat of clear MinWax Poly.

 

[Esox]

I should also add that when working with raw wood you can 'raise the grain'. After finish sanding, wet the wood and within a few minutes you'll feel the grain with your fingers. Let the piece dry fully, then sand again.

That happens when working with poly too. With the bench above, the first coat of poly was a seal coat. I then sanded it with 600grit paper and gave it another coat. Once it dried I scuffed it with 600 paper then used MinWax Hard Paste Wax, buffing between 4 coats of wax.

That wax is very hard and durable, but I'm not sure any wax will stand up long term to soaps.

 

[davent]

Is that the 'Wipe on Poly' and the regular brush on? I've a project i need to finish, too many options.

So I was talking with a coworker of mine who seems to have done more woodworking than I and he said he's used ModgePodge as a finish before on some longboards. I'm curious if that has ever come up or if anyone has tried it? I'm still planning on trying the Tru-oil until I know I'll have the time/space to practice the CA finish, but I thought it would be worth bringing it up.

Mod Podge as far as i know is PVA glue, not much in the way of water resistance, you don't want to use it as a finish.
dave

 

[Esox]

Is that the 'Wipe on Poly' and the regular brush on? I've a project i need to finish, too many options.

This is what I use.

For scales or anything I wanted a deep shine on I'd use use gloss. The shine can be as deep as an epoxy finish with a few coats. Make sure each coat is fully cured before sanding and laying on the next coat.

The drawback with a thick poly finish is, poly isnt as hard as epoxies and even fully cured you can dig a fingernail into it if you're determined too.

The bench above I built for a friend. Its designed to sit on while you're on your knees and the base of the legs are rounded so it rocks. This wax dries hard, but even on its own it imparts colour to raw wood.

I had a look at that bench again last fall. Despite fairly heavy use, it still doesnt need another coat.