Damn Comfortable Shave

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Jim, your posts are sheer poetry. The more I read the more I get into your vibe. And it's a good vibe. Science brand art is genius ... for so many situations.

Well currently my world view is getting blown apart by coticules (will seveneighth just shut up about Belgian stone already). There's some interesting information out there. I just read a brilliant post where the guy was saying he started out in straight shaving pursuing the sharpest edge he could. Mastered that but found that he would frequently get weepers and his face would be raw after the second consecutive day of shaving. So then he went for mellow. Mellow cut the hair everyday without removing a later of skin. I find this interesting.

I just going to ignore all this talk about stones I don't have so you can forget about trying to twist my arm.

I have two Arkansas finishers. If there's a finisher better than my Hard Translucent Ark I'll get around to it one day but it won't be today. Shoot me, but I have a Zulu Grey that I've not even thought about using yet so why would I want to be buying anything else?

Well, you know better of course. The truth is I'm forever checking the eBay thuringians, but I am not interested in paying what most of them go for and I've not found any of the great bargains other gentlemen seem to come across. No worries. No hurries.

I also plan to get the Welsh slate set (large sizes) someday. Not today.

I have razorbacks...

Sometimes they play decent football, too. I've actually been to Fayetteville. What a nice place it is. I really enjoyed going there to see my aunt on her 100th birthday. My late mom was a teacher at the University of Arkansas Little Rock; yes, she was a friend of Bill's. My sister lives in Arkansas. I've got some ties to the state and have been to Little Rock several times. Nice city.

Still, the main thing I know about Arkansas is they grow some great finishing stones. That Norton is a super stone. I really like it. Not knocking the Hard Black either, but the Translucent pleases me more. It's just a cool stone in all respects.

My shaves recently, and I don't mean only in the last three days, have been very comfortable. The really cool thing for me anyway is the edges have recently become significantly sharper but they've not lost anything in the smooth, comfortable, and mellow departments.

It's pretty clear to me that most of us are interested in a comfortable shave. That means not just sharp blades. There are plenty of very, very sharp DE blades which I don't like at all. In the DE world I like Polsilvers because they're both very sharp and also smooth on my skin. However, straight razor edges are more comfortable than any DE or SE blade I've used. The only issue for me is getting them sharp enough so I can get really close and smooth shaves as well as comfortable shaves.

Like you gentlemen I want that perfect balance of sharpness and smoothness. What I've got so far is poetry in motion. Can it get better? Why not? Sharper still would be great, but not at the expense of a mellow edge.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

This is exactly why I use the different finishers.
I'm looking for the perfect balance of sharpness and mellow or smoothness.

Most of the time I shave every two days.
Mainly because my beard grows slowly and my face objects to getting scraped on a daily basis.
About halfway through the second day I feel grubby and can't wait to get home for a shave (I only shave evenings).

I have noticed though. My Filarmonica 14 with a CF edge is so gentle I can get away with shaving every day if I so wish. My aim is to get all my other razors to this level of sharpness and smooth at the same time.
So, now I have a known benchmark to aspire too.

Any idea why the F14 edge is better than the others?

 

[Seveneighth]

Any idea why the F14 edge is better than the others?

I find different steels make a difference. I like the Böker stainless over any other stainless, vintage Sheffields - especially 2 NOS I have, and I like the Thiers Issards Spartacus. I agree with @Somerled, my Sheffields with a Charnley Forest edge are super comfortable. The Böker is very comfortable finished on the black paste.

If I take a modern Dovo or a Swedish steel, they are very harsh. They are a bit harsh on the paste, OK with the Charnley Forest but very comfortable with the coticules.

My Thiers Issards come up well with the Welsh Stones.

What I haven't done properly is go through the different razors and try the different edges systematically.

I have read posts where a very experienced honemeister describes how he fits edges to blades, and says this is the joy of straight razors - the ability to tune every edge exactly how you like it.

 

[Seveneighth]

All that is by the by - not trying to tempt you into buying stones. You have an advantage over @Somerled and me which is better access to Arkansas stones. And I am curious about your experiences with these.

It seems like the results are going from strength to strength.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I find different steels make a difference...
I have read posts where a very experienced honemeister describes how he fits edges to blades, and says this is the joy of straight razors - the ability to tune every edge exactly how you like it.

While I'm sure that's all true, it's way way beyond me. Besides that it is not my bent to adjust what I do to the materials. I'm rather the other way around. Perhaps I'll grow into it.

For instance, I have a method of loading and face lathering. If a soap doesn't conform to my method it is a soap I reject. That sounds a bit more rigid than it actually is as I do a little bit to dial various soaps in if I otherwise really, really, really like them, but I don't do much. My basic loading and lathering method remains the same for all soaps.

Being as I am has its disadvantages, and I'm not that way as much as it might sound. Perhaps I'll end up with various sharpening processes for each of my many, many razors. For now, I don't have that many razors and I'm trying to merely come up with a system which gets seven of them both sharp and smooth/comfortable/mellow. So far I seem to be on the right track.

Mostly I don't count round trips or laps or strokes on the stones (other than in the burr method where one must count) so that part of the honing is entirely informed on an individual blade basis by things like feel, sticktion, water waves, and such.

I actually find it rather amazing that anyone could be so advanced they can figure out how to work with each individual razor blade especially when they're talking about a blade someone sent to them for honing. That's a level light years beyond me.

All that is by the by - not trying to tempt you into buying stones. You have an advantage over @Somerled and me which is better access to Arkansas stones. And I am curious about your experiences with these.

It seems like the results are going from strength to strength.

I just checked the place I bought my Norton. Link. They again have them in stock and the price is right, but they ship only to the United States. Very good vendor. Actually a very large hardware store; I'd love to visit the brick and mortar store sometime.

I wonder if a guy in the UK could purchase on and have it shipped to someone in the US who would then ship it to the UK? Is that an option. I know nothing about it. Expenses? Import duties, etc? Would it be an option? Perhaps there's another way. I've also heard of commercial services which do that sort of thing, but know nothing about them; they may have the expenses confined to the minimum?

I suppose we all have some advantages of geography. The UK stone selection seems world class and rather vast. We have only Arks in the US as far as I know, in finishing stones and razor sharpening stones, but perhaps my view is uninformed as to our native selection.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Valentine's Day my shave was sweet.

This $13.50 13/16" 360 Kukri is newly re-honed and all sharpened up to my satisfaction, but what does that mean?

• It means the razor is sharper than the last time I used it.
• It means the edge is just as smooth, comfortable, and mellow as ever.
• It means I'm able to complete my shave faster and yet get a better shave.
• The number of lathered and unlather (ghost lathered) passes is probably the same, but everything moves along a bit faster such that it adds up to significantly less time involved in the actual shave.

The main thing it means is I'm a very happy guy!

I've only shaved with the straight razor 104 times, but that's enough to get me started on Knock Knock jokes. Ready?

Using my current honing, stropping, and pasting method of razor sharpening I now have four razors which I know are sharp, sharp, sharp. One more of the three I did yesterday remains to be shave tested.

Two or three other razors will get the same treatment as the three yesterday, or something similar. It's possible I will leave one or two of the three stones used yesterday off. I could do three stones on razor one, two on razor two, and just the Ark on razor three. Perhaps I'll do the honing on Saturday, but there's no rush.

How is a good edge like the wind? How is a good edge like love?

Spoiler: How?

My next set of goals involve my neck. I want a better neck shave. If I could go E-W I could probably do it more easily (like with a safety razor), but E-W on my neck with a straight is a daunting endeavor. No rush on this. Incremental improvement suits me fine.

Knock Knock
Who's there?
Razor!
Razor who?
Razor hands, this is a stick up!

Sorry. There might be 103 more but I'll spare us.

Happy shaves to you,

Jim

 

[Somerled]

Any idea why the F14 edge is better than the others?

Wish I knew

I had read stuff about Filarmonica's and thought it was just the usual internet waffle about imaginery differences between steel, grinds, more expensive = better kind of thing.
But I have a curious mind and kept wondering, "what if there is something in all this waffle".

So, I promised myself a while back, if I could get comfortable with straight razor shaving, then I could justify buying something like a Filarmonica.

Took the plunge around Christmas time and bought what looks like a fairly unused specimen from Ebay.

The numbering system for Filarmonica razors is:
14=7/8
13=6/8
12=5/8

Buying the 14 killed two birds with one stone, because I wanted to try a 7/8 razor.

It was advertised as not shave ready and as soon as it arrived I examined the edge for chips (there were none) and started honing. The blade on this is very very thin from about half way down to the edge and it flex's easily if you press the blade with a finger.
Setting the bevel, didn't use the burr method, went very fast - as did the rest of the honing. Filly's are known for their ease of honing and keeping a good edge.
Decided to finish it on my new Charnley Forest stone, pretty much immediately it started sticking.

Like you, Jim, I don't count the laps.

First shave on my usual two days growth was amazing. Barely felt the edge as it travelled across my face and the blade itself seemed to flex with the contours. Kept checking to make sure it was actually removing my bristles, and it was.
Hands down, this was the best shave with straights yet.
After a few weeks with this razor I've pretty much figured out how to shave the annoying spots on my neck that only my Schicks could do.

Why is this such a good shaver? Is it the razor, the steel, the grind? Or, is it the way it was honed, or finished on the CF?
I honestly don't know.
If I had to keep just one razor and get rid of the rest then this would be it, without a doubt.

I've since bought a 13, again pretty much unused.
But not with the original scales this time and an obvious rust spot that had been removed. This made it much cheaper than the 14 to buy.
I'm going to try different finishers on this to see how the edge changes. Only shaved once with it so far and it wasn't quite as good as the 14. But I'm waiting on some oil coming to use on my new stones and I'll rehone it on them.

Not sure I like those scales.
Bought some 3mm coloured transparent acrylic to make scales with. Might make a set for this as the 14 has scales made from similar material.
Acrylic is very cheap in comparison to kirinite.

From what little information there is on Filarmonica's I think the 14 is from the second generation and the 13 from the first.
Info taken from this post Fili love what makes it so good!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Wish I knew

I had read stuff about Filarmonica's and thought it was just the usual internet waffle about imaginery differences between steel, grinds, more expensive = better kind of thing.
But I have a curious mind and kept wondering, "what if there is something in all this waffle".

So, I promised myself a while back, if I could get comfortable with straight razor shaving, then I could justify buying something like a Filarmonica.

Took the plunge around Christmas time and bought what looks like a fairly unused specimen from Ebay.
The numbering system for Filarmonica razors is 14=7/8, 13=6/8, and 12=5/8.
Buying the 14 killed two birds with one stone, because I wanted to try a 7/8 razor.

It was advertised as not shave ready and as soon as it arrived I examined the edge for chips (there were none) and started honing. The blade on this is very very thin from about half way down to the edge and it flex's easily if you press the blade with a finger.
Setting the bevel, didn't use the burr method, went very fast - as did the rest of the honing. Filly's are known for their ease of honing and keeping a good edge.
Decided to finish it on my new Charnley Forest stone, pretty much immediately it started sticking.

Like you, Jim, I don't count the laps.

First shave on my usual two days growth was amazing. Barely felt the edge as it travelled across my face and the blade itself seemed to flex with the contours. Kept checking to make sure it was actually removing my bristles, and it was.
Hands down, this was the best shave with straights yet.
After a few weeks with this razor I've pretty much figured out how to shave the annoying spots on my neck that only my Schicks could do.

Why is this such a good shaver? Is it the razor, the steel, the grind? Or, is it the way it was honed, or finished on the CF?
I honestly don't know.
If I had to keep just one razor and get rid of the rest then this would be it, without a doubt.

View attachment 952822

I've since bought a 13, again pretty much unused.
But not with the original scales this time and an obvious rust spot that had been removed. This made it much cheaper than the 14 to buy.
I'm going to try different finishers on this to see how the edge changes. Only shaved once with it so far and it wasn't quite as good as the 14. But I'm waiting on some oil coming to use on my new stones and I'll rehone it on them.

View attachment 952823

Not sure I like those scales.
Bought some 3mm coloured transparent acrylic to make scales with. Might make a set for this as the 14 has scales made from similar material.
Acrylic is very cheap in comparison to kirinite.

From what little information there is on Filarmonica's I think the 14 is from the second generation and the 13 from the first.
Info taken from this post Fili love what makes it so good!

They don't give those babies away, do they?

Maybe later. Not now, but I can look and drool.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Somerled]

They don't give those babies away, do they?

Maybe later. Not now, but I can look and drool.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Unfortunately they don't.
It took me a while to talk myself into buying the 14.
I even closed my eyes at 10 seconds to go on the auction just after putting in my one and only bid in.
Not sure whether I wanted to win at that price or not.

I have no regrets though, apart from it's keeping me away from using my other razors.

 

[Esox]

My next set of goals involve my neck. I want a better neck shave. If I could go E-W I could probably do it more easily (like with a safety razor), but E-W on my neck with a straight is a daunting endeavor. No rush on this. Incremental improvement suits me fine.

You have a shorty for that.

How much time does it take you Jim, from start to finish honing a blade to your satisfaction?

Knock Knock
Who's there?
Razor!
Razor who?
Razor hands, this is a stick up!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

You have a shorty for that.

How much time does it take you Jim, from start to finish honing a blade to your satisfaction?

The shorty has no scales. Not useable right now.

Not counting the flattening of the stones? I'm not really quite sure. Maybe a couple of hours. I will look at the time stuff more carefully as I go along, but I don't have any current razors which need to go from bevel setting to the finishing stones.

I am getting faster at honing and better.

Some razors take a lot more or a lot less work and time.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[PeteVK]

@Chan Eil Whiskers Just curious what do you use to flatten your stones?

I've been into fine kitchen cutlery for a number of years, even so much as to build a knife making workshop in my garage lol. Long story short, along with that hobby I also happened to get into whet stone sharpening using Japanese whet stones. For flattening the DMT XXC diamond plate works like magic and flattens stone in just a few seconds.

 

[Esox]

The shorty has no scales. Not useable right now.

Not counting the flattening of the stones? I'm not really quite sure. Maybe a couple of hours.

Good thing you know how to make scales.

There are worse ways to spend an evening...

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

You have a shorty for that.

How much time does it take you Jim, from start to finish honing a blade to your satisfaction?

The shorty has no scales. Not useable right now.

Not counting the flattening of the stones? I'm not really quite sure. Maybe a couple of hours. I will look at the time stuff more carefully as I go along, but I don't have any current razors which need to go from bevel setting to the finishing stones.

I am getting faster at honing and better.

Some razors take a lot more or a lot less work and time.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

@Chan Eil Whiskers Just curious what do you use to flatten your stones?

I've been into fine kitchen cutlery for a number of years, even so much as to build a knife making workshop in my garage lol. Long story short, along with that hobby I also happened to get into whet stone sharpening using Japanese whet stones. For flattening the DMT XXC diamond plate works like magic and flattens stone in just a few seconds.

Link.

 

[PeteVK]

Nice, thanks for sharing @Chan Eil Whiskers

 

[Twelvefret]

Since I started lapping under dripping water, the edges are kicked up a few notches. That coupled with a knock down as revolutionized my results. I haven't use a paste in months. Stropping on linen and horse post stone.

So, being out of town, I used Bakelite slant. Did the no detail knock down. Had the same tugging with new blade in the usual places, but the result is the same as with the SR or Feather.

 

[Esox]

Since I started lapping under dripping water, the edges are kicked up a few notches.

Flowing water gives you a clean stroke over a clean surface for every stroke. Watch someone wet sand a car. They hold the paper on a block in one hand and a trickling hose in the other. The same as machine work, theres a constant flow of cutting fluid. That does two things in that type of work. It present clean surfaces for the duration of the cutting and it keeps the surface cool.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Friday's shave is in the bank.

I used the third and final of my most recently sharpened razors (the ones I did Wednesday) which was also the fifth of the razors subjected to my latest iteration of my sharpening technique. I say sharpening because it involves honing, stropping on leather, and paste stropping. It is not just a honing progression.

I'm counting my straight razor shaves.

I'm not entirely sure today's razor's edge was quite as good as the others recently sharpened, but it's close enough. Very nice edge.

I cut the edge of my nose. Not happy about it. Not a huge deal, but still...

I've not been using witch hazel much, but I did today.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

I cut the edge of my nose. Not happy about it. Not a huge deal, but still...

That'll make for an awkward couple of days lol.