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Which first jnat? For a finisher.

Hello gents.

Wishing to purchase my very first jnat.

It will be a finisher.

My face likes a naniwa 12k as a finisher.

My maintenance technique is, every Saturday morning, hold the nani free hand and give the razor ten light hones, heel leading.

Thanks in advance.
 
The Nani12 has a type of softness to it compared to a super hard jnat. Usually the super hard stones will produce the keenest edges, not always. If it were me, picking up my first jnat. I would want a stone thats very hard, for me they have a little better feedback. I would look for something hard enough for a mikawa progression, where as all your slurry isn't base stone. But not soo hard where you are tip toeing thru every stroke. This way if you ever want to go a little further you can pick up a set of mikawa nagura stones. Some members here are very knowledgeable sellers and they would be happy to help you out with any questions you have.
 
Get a hard jnat nand raise a slurry with a diamond plate to start or use a Tomo which you can usually arrange for when you buy your base stone. Mikawa nagura will increase your learning time and won't give you anything for your expense and troubles.
 
Get a hard jnat nand raise a slurry with a diamond plate to start or use a Tomo which you can usually arrange for when you buy your base stone. Mikawa nagura will increase your learning time and won't give you anything for your expense and troubles.

My point was to buy a hard enough stone. That way in the future if he wanted to dable in a mikawa progression, he wouldnt need to buy another stone.

I would argue that last statement......
 
Argue? No. I played around for a few years with that stuff. 7 nagura progressions blah blah blah. I started on a Tomo and diamond plate slurry. Went around the world with it and ended up back where I started. And.just because it.takes a long time doesn't mean it's better. I bought into it too. Natural bevel setters etc. All stuff I haven't touched in years. Maybe I should lap my stones "old school" sift some sand. That's the way the Masters used to do it. Lol
 
Just go to JNS or other vendors and get a Ozuko Lvl 5 and a tomo. That should be enough to get you started and can be had for $100 or less. If you find it works for you and you enjoy it you can get into the more exotic stones.


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Argue? No. I played around for a few years with that stuff. 7 nagura progressions blah blah blah. I started on a Tomo and diamond plate slurry. Went around the world with it and ended up back where I started. And.just because it.takes a long time doesn't mean it's better. I bought into it too. Natural bevel setters etc. All stuff I haven't touched in years. Maybe I should lap my stones "old school" sift some sand. That's the way the Masters used to do it. Lol

Ha, yea I hear yea. To some extent, its what you want it to be or get out of it I would suppose. I do agree tho, more time spent doesnt exactly equate to better. Sometimes more time takes the edge backwards. But to me, there is a diffrence from comming off a high grit synth and light tomo finish vs a mikawa progression, tomo finish. I don't necessarily think any one way is better, not really. I like rocks.... part of my business is aggregates and gravel actually, so I gravitate that direction. If I was after fast, cheap and easy, I’d go grab a $5 bag of the orange bic plastic throw aways and be done with it, who are we kidding, I mean they do work.
 
Argue? No. I played around for a few years with that stuff. 7 nagura progressions blah blah blah. I started on a Tomo and diamond plate slurry. Went around the world with it and ended up back where I started. And.just because it.takes a long time doesn't mean it's better. I bought into it too. Natural bevel setters etc. All stuff I haven't touched in years. Maybe I should lap my stones "old school" sift some sand. That's the way the Masters used to do it. Lol
I agree. Dmt card slurry followef by a few rounds of tomos

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Ha, yea I hear yea. To some extent, its what you want it to be or get out of it I would suppose. I do agree tho, more time spent doesnt exactly equate to better. Sometimes more time takes the edge backwards. But to me, there is a diffrence from comming off a high grit synth and light tomo finish vs a mikawa progression, tomo finish. I don't necessarily think any one way is better, not really. I like rocks.... part of my business is aggregates and gravel actually, so I gravitate that direction. If I was after fast, cheap and easy, I’d go grab a $5 bag of the orange bic plastic throw aways and be done with it, who are we kidding, I mean they do work.
Well a dmt slurry followed by a tomo can take.you.from bevel to finish. Ive done it many times. So tell me what exactly are these other nagura doing other than continuously taking the edge back and then bringing the edge forward? If you do 10 laps on paste, diamond or crox, doesnt that change the feel of the edge? It does and how much more steel are you removing by doing hundreds of laps or more on nagura? Theres much less work required to refine the edge after the bevel than many people think.
 
IMO, nagura were necessary before the days of diamond lapping plates. The stones were very fine and nagura allowed you to go thru a progression to achieve a very fine edge. These days, a diamond nagura slurry easily replaces an entire mikawa progression and it does it much, much faster, more consistently. I will personally never go back to nagura again.
 
My personal routine at the moment is shapton pro 2k for bevel followed by shapton 5k and then dmt slurries. Usually about 3 with not much time spent on the first 2 before refreshing and spending more time on the last one. I then go to about 2 oe 3 tomos. I'm getting a tsushima black nagura in the mail this week. Hoping to use that after the 5k and then just do tomos after.

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Ugh... every time I start reading thread about JNAT stones, my head ends up spinning, with all the different names and different experiences people have with them. Gets quite confusing very fast for me. :001_huh:
 
Ugh... every time I start reading thread about JNAT stones, my head ends up spinning, with all the different names and different experiences people have with them. Gets quite confusing very fast for me. :001_huh:
It certainly can be confusing! I found it just as confusing when I started with jnats as well. Personally I followed “The Ax Method 2” and have always had outstanding success. I have made a tweak here and there to suit my honing preference but the principles are unchanged.
 
It certainly can be confusing! I found it just as confusing when I started with jnats as well. Personally I followed “The Ax Method 2” and have always had outstanding success. I have made a tweak here and there to suit my honing preference but the principles are unchanged.
How quickly he hones a razor after his bevel that cuts hair very nicely. It shows how capable his methods are. Simple yet effective. No hocus pocus
 
How quickly he hones a razor after his bevel that cuts hair very nicely. It shows how capable his methods are. Simple yet effective. No hocus pocus

Definitely. It doesn't hurt to have a very nice microscope to see exactly what's happening at the edge either. I really like his setup. Of course it isn't necessary to successfully hone a razor, but very cool to see exactly how few strokes it takes to fully clean up the scratch marks from a coarser hone at that level.
 
It certainly can be confusing! I found it just as confusing when I started with jnats as well. Personally I followed “The Ax Method 2” and have always had outstanding success. I have made a tweak here and there to suit my honing preference but the principles are unchanged.
So you think his method really works ? I've never tried the version 2

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