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Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
May I make a preliminary comment before rambling off into the wilderness?
Surgeons oftentimes say something I find useful here.
They say, "This operation in my hands is the way to go for this problem," or something to that effect. Key words are "in my hands." Sometimes they mean to say something along the lines of, "I am good at this but don't think that means you will be because I'm better at everything than you'll ever be at anything," because that's how some surgeons are.
Sometimes they're acknowledging the obvious fact that we are of variable abilities and have varying skills and experience. As in this sort of position: Just because I can do something and make it look easy doesn't mean it's easy; you should know I've invested thousand of hours and infinite study; also you should know that it only looks easy because I'm a good actor; I've played the role thousands of times.
Here I am...
I see it much like you see it.
But, for me, it may look considerably more foggy.
One of the things I bought into early on (right or wrong) was the general information contained in this little write up the Classic Edge finishing stones sales page, linked, which talks some about grit size not being too very important.
Is he right? I don't know that he is. I doubt he said that out of malice or to mislead me. After all, he sells stones at 12K, etc.
I really like the Chosera 1K (not that I have anything to compare it to). For badly messed up edges (chips and such) I would like a much coarser stone but for everything else the Chosera seems grand.
It is a soft feeling stone. It has a nice feel in use. It is not fast - I'm talking here from using it with the burr method to set a bevel - but is it slow? I don't entirely know what those terms mean.
It certainly is a voyage of discovery. Honing. Stones. Grit. All this stuff.
The complicating factors include technique, too, as you know.
Sometimes I think probably the way to start is with The Method and lapping film. I may end up trying it or adding some lapping film to my progressions. Or, not.
I find this material (below from the Classic Edge link above and its write up of the stone) interesting and confusing. It's also educational.
In the material quoted above Phil is talking about a 10K stone being for him better than the same brand of stone at 12K. He sells both. Why would he say this it it weren't true in his experience?
Concerning the Steelix 8K stone (the one in my progression) he says this.
The stone I bought (the Japanese Ceramic Waterstone being discussed above is the Steelex 8K) did not come with a slurry stone. Even though Classic Edge sells stones they seem to be always out of stock on most of the stones including this on. I bought mine from an Amazon vendor; the vendor told me it is not sold with a slurry stone (I inquired). Not a problem as I have a slurry stone that works great for all my waterstones and is high enough grit that it doesn't mess any of them up (I think). I don't use a slurry stone all the time, but sometimes I do.
Anyway, honing with the Steelex 8K as the finishing stone in my progressions I was unable to get the edge I wanted, which is why I bought the Shapton 12K and the Arkansas Hard Black.
I tried water and then Williams shaving soap and water and got no joy with the 8K as a finisher, but, again, I'm a novice and have no real skills or understanding.
That's how I see it, too. But, as you say, it's what I "think" it means.
I don't know if the table is right, or properly done, or anything. I would assume it is, but that's not the same as knowing.
I'm pretty sure I see people I think know a lot about stones referring to grit or micron values or comparisons in ways that seem to be telling me they're using that chart. Either that or there are other published sources of such information.
Can I figure all this out? Probably not, but might as well try...
I'm totally open to suggestions and both stupid enough and stubborn enough to ignore them.
I'm less inclined to buy more stones having already spent a small fortune on the ones I have. Still, I will get more stones over time I suspect.
Happy shaves, gentlemen,
Jim
Surgeons oftentimes say something I find useful here.
They say, "This operation in my hands is the way to go for this problem," or something to that effect. Key words are "in my hands." Sometimes they mean to say something along the lines of, "I am good at this but don't think that means you will be because I'm better at everything than you'll ever be at anything," because that's how some surgeons are.
Sometimes they're acknowledging the obvious fact that we are of variable abilities and have varying skills and experience. As in this sort of position: Just because I can do something and make it look easy doesn't mean it's easy; you should know I've invested thousand of hours and infinite study; also you should know that it only looks easy because I'm a good actor; I've played the role thousands of times.
Here I am...
- Sometimes I feel like I'm fumbling in the dark with these stones.
- I would have I think been better off buying the complete set of one brand of stones.
- My set is a hodgepodge.
- I don't know how one stone relates to another.
- Maybe I'll figure it out, but, for me all that means is maybe my edges will become better and better, more and more consistent, and universally capable of shaving me like I want to be shaved.
- I know nothing.
- Still, this is just shaving. It's not surgery. Nobody's on the operating table.
I see it much like you see it.
But, for me, it may look considerably more foggy.
Actually, that's okay. It probably should look foggy to me at this point. If I thought I understood it I'd be deluded. As it stands I'm making progress.
One of the things I bought into early on (right or wrong) was the general information contained in this little write up the Classic Edge finishing stones sales page, linked, which talks some about grit size not being too very important.
Is he right? I don't know that he is. I doubt he said that out of malice or to mislead me. After all, he sells stones at 12K, etc.
I really like the Chosera 1K (not that I have anything to compare it to). For badly messed up edges (chips and such) I would like a much coarser stone but for everything else the Chosera seems grand.
It is a soft feeling stone. It has a nice feel in use. It is not fast - I'm talking here from using it with the burr method to set a bevel - but is it slow? I don't entirely know what those terms mean.
It certainly is a voyage of discovery. Honing. Stones. Grit. All this stuff.
The complicating factors include technique, too, as you know.
Sometimes I think probably the way to start is with The Method and lapping film. I may end up trying it or adding some lapping film to my progressions. Or, not.
I find this material (below from the Classic Edge link above and its write up of the stone) interesting and confusing. It's also educational.
In the material quoted above Phil is talking about a 10K stone being for him better than the same brand of stone at 12K. He sells both. Why would he say this it it weren't true in his experience?
Concerning the Steelix 8K stone (the one in my progression) he says this.
The stone I bought (the Japanese Ceramic Waterstone being discussed above is the Steelex 8K) did not come with a slurry stone. Even though Classic Edge sells stones they seem to be always out of stock on most of the stones including this on. I bought mine from an Amazon vendor; the vendor told me it is not sold with a slurry stone (I inquired). Not a problem as I have a slurry stone that works great for all my waterstones and is high enough grit that it doesn't mess any of them up (I think). I don't use a slurry stone all the time, but sometimes I do.
Anyway, honing with the Steelex 8K as the finishing stone in my progressions I was unable to get the edge I wanted, which is why I bought the Shapton 12K and the Arkansas Hard Black.
I tried water and then Williams shaving soap and water and got no joy with the 8K as a finisher, but, again, I'm a novice and have no real skills or understanding.
That's how I see it, too. But, as you say, it's what I "think" it means.
I don't know if the table is right, or properly done, or anything. I would assume it is, but that's not the same as knowing.
I'm pretty sure I see people I think know a lot about stones referring to grit or micron values or comparisons in ways that seem to be telling me they're using that chart. Either that or there are other published sources of such information.
Can I figure all this out? Probably not, but might as well try...
I'm totally open to suggestions and both stupid enough and stubborn enough to ignore them.
I'm less inclined to buy more stones having already spent a small fortune on the ones I have. Still, I will get more stones over time I suspect.
Happy shaves, gentlemen,
Jim
