Aah - thank you.
How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop
- Thread starter Slash McCoy
- Start date
Hi,
I am new to SR shaving and looking to learn how to keep my my blade up. I purchased a Boker King Cutter and had Jarrod at TSS hone it so that I start with a good edge. I have read through this thread and also Serapim's Synthetic Progression thread and am a bit overwhelmed and trying to put a basic system in place to learn blade up keep.
Here is what I am looking to put together from my readings:
1) 3 - acrylic blocks 3/4x3x12 for 1/4x3x12 balsa on each (attached w/ rubber cement)
2) .5, .25, .1 diamond on each strip
3) 1 acrylic 3/4x3x12 for 1u lapping film (wetting will make it stick?)
4) 1/16x3x12 plain balsa
Is this a good start? Overkill? Do I need 5u lapping film?
As for use. If it was honed, can I just start with the .1u balsa>1/16 balsa>leather strop or should I go through a whole progression to start 1u film>.5 balsa>.25 balsa>.1 balsa>1/16 balsa>leather strop?
Sorry if this was answered in one of the threads, but there is so much information to take in.
Thanks in advance!!!
I am new to SR shaving and looking to learn how to keep my my blade up. I purchased a Boker King Cutter and had Jarrod at TSS hone it so that I start with a good edge. I have read through this thread and also Serapim's Synthetic Progression thread and am a bit overwhelmed and trying to put a basic system in place to learn blade up keep.
Here is what I am looking to put together from my readings:
1) 3 - acrylic blocks 3/4x3x12 for 1/4x3x12 balsa on each (attached w/ rubber cement)
2) .5, .25, .1 diamond on each strip
3) 1 acrylic 3/4x3x12 for 1u lapping film (wetting will make it stick?)
4) 1/16x3x12 plain balsa
Is this a good start? Overkill? Do I need 5u lapping film?
As for use. If it was honed, can I just start with the .1u balsa>1/16 balsa>leather strop or should I go through a whole progression to start 1u film>.5 balsa>.25 balsa>.1 balsa>1/16 balsa>leather strop?
Sorry if this was answered in one of the threads, but there is so much information to take in.
Thanks in advance!!!
Looks good. Yes, you will need a leather strop. Likely won't need 5u film but 8u might be a good one to have on hand. Eventually you will want to get a complete pack for about $25 but not for maintenance. Yes water will make it stick, just squegee it out with you hand. Slash will likely look it over for you . Since Jarrod honed it, you probably won't need more than the balsa strops and a leather strop. Run the balsa progression and then just strop on the .1u balsa and leather after each shave and you will be set.
And don’t forget to wipe down your blade in between each step. .5u paste on your .1u strop isn’t good.
Neither is diamond paste of any sort on your leather.
Neither is diamond paste of any sort on your leather.
A bit over a decade ago, in another setting, in what seems like a lifetime ago, I had asked a notable expert in the field about using diamond paste or spray for finishing stropping a razor. His response was that green chromium oxide would prove finer, because the chromium oxide was both less sharp for the same particle size, thus being a notably less aggressive abrasive, but also, being softer than diamond would break down through use and a properly loaded strop would get finer with age as the particle size reduced through that breakdown.
I don't know how much I believe that or not, nor do I know if the man who said it then still believes it now, but it was an interesting tidbit that I filed away for just such a discussion as is happening here.
I don't know how much I believe that or not, nor do I know if the man who said it then still believes it now, but it was an interesting tidbit that I filed away for just such a discussion as is happening here.
- Thread starter
- #266
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
That's why we use lapped balsa with the diamond, and not leather, and why we are careful to not use enough to leave a coating on the balsa. Your old mentor has a point. IF you use leather or if you use too much paste.
It is pretty much agreed by most, that the CrOx on leather will eventually send you back to the hones. That's okay, no big deal, but its one more reason why The Method is preferred by its practitioners.
Using The Method but with CrOx and FeOx seems to work, but requires a LOT of laps on the FeOx for the same edge. You could increase pressure to say the weight of the razor, but that also brings with it more problems. By all means, give CrOx a try. Don't take my word for it. Then try The Method and be astonished.
It is pretty much agreed by most, that the CrOx on leather will eventually send you back to the hones. That's okay, no big deal, but its one more reason why The Method is preferred by its practitioners.
Using The Method but with CrOx and FeOx seems to work, but requires a LOT of laps on the FeOx for the same edge. You could increase pressure to say the weight of the razor, but that also brings with it more problems. By all means, give CrOx a try. Don't take my word for it. Then try The Method and be astonished.
Since I'm already pot committed to the method (by which I mean, my balsa strops are lapped and waiting for compound that is paid for and in the mail) I'll just stick with that until I can make my razors as sharp as I want them - then maybe I'll try green chrome.
I was just wondering if anyone else has had similar experience with a well used green chrome strop being a much finer polish than a relatively fresh one.
I was just wondering if anyone else has had similar experience with a well used green chrome strop being a much finer polish than a relatively fresh one.
I’ve used CrOx but it doesn’t touch diamond. Speaking of diamond, it is time to lap and refresh my .1u strop. Someone said that CBN is a softer finish than diamond but I’m going to wait for @Slash McCoy to review before I bother. Pasted balsa is so close to perfection IMO I’m not in a hurry to find out. I used a NOS Geneva this morning and my most recent honing job and it was like shaving with a butter knife from a comfort standpoint and like a light saber from a cutting standpoint. What more could I want?
I bought mine from Amazon. Have you tried there?
- Thread starter
- #271
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Steve, don't wait for me LOL! There have already been positive reports on CBN used in place of .1u diamond. I would have already tried it myself by now but I just haven't had the time.
Schinny, I have used quite a bit of generic diamond paste from ebay and knock on wood, but so far I have not found any that didn't perform quite adequately. That's not to say that there isn't any bad or fake diamond paste out there, only that it seems a fair risk when the top shelf stuff is not available.
Schinny, I have used quite a bit of generic diamond paste from ebay and knock on wood, but so far I have not found any that didn't perform quite adequately. That's not to say that there isn't any bad or fake diamond paste out there, only that it seems a fair risk when the top shelf stuff is not available.
I am actually using CBN instead of diamond, but otherwise trying to follow your instructions in the balsa thread to the letter.
Speaking of which, you folks wouldn't happen to know what they use as a base for CBN emulsions would you?
I have my balsa strops built on polished 4" x 12" marble edge tiles. The balsa is cut to 3" width and there is 1" of exposed marble. This leaves me the opportunity to dilute the CBN emulsion, and spread it evenly across a spare tile, and then put a balsa strop face down on that tile, turn it over, and rub a bit. This should ensure a really nice, even distribution of the abrasive. I just need to figure out what to dilute it with, so I don't end up with too much.
Speaking of which, you folks wouldn't happen to know what they use as a base for CBN emulsions would you?
I have my balsa strops built on polished 4" x 12" marble edge tiles. The balsa is cut to 3" width and there is 1" of exposed marble. This leaves me the opportunity to dilute the CBN emulsion, and spread it evenly across a spare tile, and then put a balsa strop face down on that tile, turn it over, and rub a bit. This should ensure a really nice, even distribution of the abrasive. I just need to figure out what to dilute it with, so I don't end up with too much.
Ok. I’ll see. I do have plenty of balsa in the rack. I’m just so happy with my edges I can’t stand it.
- Thread starter
- #274
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Ok. I’ll see. I do have plenty of balsa in the rack. I’m just so happy with my edges I can’t stand it.
Eagerly awaiting your report!
Now that you seem to have mastered The Method, I suggest that you do try some different edges, keeping in mind that some guys actually prefer a duller, smoother, more comfortable, whatever, edge. You might be one of them, you never know until you try. You can always take it back to the film and balsa, if shaving off of Jnat, Coti, Slate, whatever, leaves you feeling like you have been out with a really bad blind date that had a wonderful personality, crossed eyes, dandruff and bad breath.
As for the CBN, I will go so far as to say it should be considered a perfectly viable alternative to .1u diamond paste until determined otherwise by Methodeers actually trying it with an open mind.
- Thread starter
- #275
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
You may have to experiment a bit. Glycerine is one possible diluent. Good ol water, maybe. Methanol? Acetone? Baby oil? Shave cream? Maybe just spray it lightly with a perfume atomizer, usually just a few bucks on fleabay. Rub it in, wipe off the surface layer with a tshirt. A perfectly even application doesn't seem to be particularly necessary, only that there be no coating left on the surface of the balsa. The abrasive needs to be embedded in the balsa and not rolling and scooting around on top of it.
- Thread starter
- #277
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Tomo Blue? What... you mean slurry from a blue Tomo? That sounds interesting. Do tell us more.
Oh, sorry. I forget not everyone subscribes to several shaving related YouTube channels and then obsessively checks every day to see if there are new episodes. 
It’s a new abrasive from Gamma’s Etsy store. His store and website are called Tomo Nagura, and this paste is blue. Tomo-Blue. It’s .2u, with a narrow particle size distribution. He says that is has a more stone like feel. I only have a couple shaves with it so far.
He uses it on canvas strips, but balsa is my method of choice so I thought I’d start there.
It’s a new abrasive from Gamma’s Etsy store. His store and website are called Tomo Nagura, and this paste is blue. Tomo-Blue. It’s .2u, with a narrow particle size distribution. He says that is has a more stone like feel. I only have a couple shaves with it so far.
He uses it on canvas strips, but balsa is my method of choice so I thought I’d start there.
OK, I promise. Eventually I'll have Doc put a jnat edge on one of my razors and try it but I'm kinda diggin on what I got right now. My honing is still in the improving stages. I'm working on a Berg now and that is some hard steel. Took an hour to get a burr up on one side but it is going to be a beautiful fine even edge when finished - but I digress. CBN is the next thing I'm going to try but first I need to lap and refresh my .1 balsa - less paste this time. I used very little last time but alas, too much. I don't believe I'm going to be one of the guys that likes duller smoother edges. I can hardly feel mine now. If I don't feel anything, I'm liable to cut my throat. By the way, I know the girl you are talking about. Just thought she would be too old for you now.
So you used very little, but alas, too much? Could you perhaps elucidate on how you know it was too much? I have lapped my balsa strops flat, and have my CBN emulsions, ready to apply. I just don’t want to ruin them with too much - this emulsion is a liquid, and I am concerned it will get absorbed into the balsa before i can spread it thin enough...
