Damn Comfortable Shave

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

This is the hardest part for me to decide on, bulb or fan knot. I just can't make up my mind. I have looked at the brush before and likely should have bought one when I ordered my Stirling samples, but that one review I read talked me out of it. The only negative said was that it hung on to the lather.

With as much lather as you make, I doubt that's an issue though lol.

Compared to my first Stirling, and compared to my broken in Semogue SOC boar, the Stirling Fan badger does not hold onto lather. It is exceedingly generous.

This morning I loaded the brush as usual, and did three passes without reloading at all. Plenty of rich thick lather. Way plenty. Probably could have done at least two or three more passes.

To be fair, I was using a new and different soap, so I changed a variable.

 

[Esox]

Yeah I'd guess too steep and, too sharp a blade and maybe, too much pressure. Thats a concern of mine with such light razors. You can subconsciously apply too much pressure to compensate for the change in feel because of the lightness of the razor.

If you want to shave that steep, which is what I sort of thought, use a Derby Extra, or maybe a Gillette Green. The more aggressive the razor, the milder the blade that can be used effectively.

The 10 hour BBS shave with one in my NEW SC was a very steep angle too, all comb. The cap wasnt in the lather, but it worked okay in that razor with very light pressure. Half of what I'd normally use, and the Derby are mild enough they wont peel skin without excessive pressure. If you're pushing that hard with a Derby, you'll know it before it hurts you.

Think about the angle the edge is on when it contacts the skin. You dont want it at a right angle, well maybe Cal does lol, but I dont think you do.

Compared to my first Stirling, and compared to my broken in Semogue SOC boar, the Stirling Fan badger does not hold onto lather. It is exceedingly generous.

Thats good to hear...

 

[Ron R]

I should have quit after one pass!

My shave was too close, and I have significant razor burn.

Hello Chan... I find the RR37 very efficient and doing more than 2 passes with a little clean up gives me a undesirable shave because the razor and blade are at its maximum potential. I do not own the PAA slant so all I can give you only is my opinion on my slant. Slants are very efficient hair choppers so less passes are required. Maybe let the skin heal for a couple of days.
All the best

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Thanks, guys.

I am hoping some PAA BOCS shavers will chime in. I need to know about leaving comb tracks with this razor, or not.

Yesterday, I did not leave comb tracks, so my angle was, while steep, less steep than today's angle. Yesterday, I did not get anywhere near as close a shave as I did today, and yesterday's first pass was like most of my first passes in that it merely reduced the whiskers.

Today, my shaving left comb tracks, and really whacked the whiskers on the first pass, but I got bad razor burn.

I am pretty sure it was not a matter of excessive pressure (but that is possible). I really need to hear from experienced P-BOCS shavers about the razor tracks and angle. I figure they have experience with this particular razor, and already have the matter figured out.

Left to my own devices I will not leave lather on my skin in a comb tracks pattern tomorrow!

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Johnnynroy]

Thanks, guys.

I am hoping some PAA BOCS shavers will chime in. I need to know about leaving comb tracks with this razor, or not.

Yesterday, I did not leave comb tracks, so my angle was, while steep, less steep than today's angle. Yesterday, I did not get anywhere near as close a shave as I did today, and yesterday's first pass was like most of my first passes in that it merely reduced the whiskers.

Today, my shaving left comb tracks, and really whacked the whiskers on the first pass, but I got bad razor burn.

I am pretty sure it was not a matter of excessive pressure (but that is possible). I really need to hear from experienced P-BOCS shavers about the razor tracks and angle. I figure they have experience with this particular razor, and already have the matter figured out.

Left to my own devices I will not leave lather on my skin in a comb tracks pattern tomorrow!

Happy shaves,

Jim

I have not used the BOCS, but I can give you my take on my OLD and the two slants I’ve used, the Maggard and German 37. The OLD almost never leaves behind comb trails of lather. I tend to ride the cap for the angle on it. For the slants, I also ride the cap, especially the maggard, because the bar is often angled. I too think that pressure is the likely culprit in your razor burn. My sense of how to shave with it would be placing the combs gently against your skin handle perpendicular to the floor, then slowly raising the handle until the blade starts cutting. Shaving steeper than that angle has never worked for me as I have to apply pressure through the razor to get the blade to engage the hair. My skin abhors pressure and using pressure with an OC gives me nice red comb marks that last for hours. I obviously only did that in one spot once, one of my first shaves with the OLD.

 

[Johnnynroy]

My shave today seems to be the opposite of yours, Jim. The Rockwell decided to save the best shave for last. R4 plate, and I decided to try a Gillette 7 o’clock yellow sharp edge for only the second shave ever. Ironically my first use of one was my second shave with a DE and I sliced a small area of my lip so cleanly I didn’t feel it. That terrified me into not using it again until now. I shouldn’t have waited so long. Felt as smooth as an Astra SP to me, but did very well on my chin and under my jaw, the only two places I go ATG. It was fresh, and only a very tiny amount of tug with it. Probably the least I’ve ever experienced with any blade. I hadn’t planned on packing any Feathers as they gave me a horribly rough shave the only time I used it. Maybe I’ll try them now.

My prep was also accidentally lacking a bit today. Forgot to use the hot towel on my face. That could explain the slight tug under my chin. My biggest trouble spot by far is the left side of my chin just underneath and this combo today made quick work of that. Only a small amount of ATG buffing needed there, where I usually buff for a long time or just leave the three or four hairs alone after hitting them every possible direction and irritation/soreness starts to set in.

All in all, a pretty terrific shave. Nearly damn comfortable, I would have said completely but I had some redness on the left side of my neck a bit ago I had to hit with some witch hazel. Also very close. Nearly everywhere on my face is BBS, neck is DFS with a few areas of BBS. Almost no sting at all with the Skin Food. Aftershave today would have been a delight I think, but didn’t want to add a variable in.


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[Esox]

Left to my own devices I will not leave lather on my skin in a comb tracks pattern tomorrow!

Plowing snow or driving through it? lol

On a WTG pass, all you'll ever get is a reduction. The amount of reduction is dictated by blade sharpness, exposure, angle and pressure.

As a general rule of thumb, use the angle that falls between the cap and comb 50/50. Adjust from there shallower or steeper. Only you can decide the best angle for you with any razor and blade combination.

When I use my Grande I just let the razor do what it does by roughly splitting the difference between shallow and steep, but over my jawline both sides, I adjust to a slightly steeper angle to make the blade bite just a bit more because I know they're my hardest to BBS areas.

How do I know a shallow from a steep angle and how steep I need to be? I'm still learning just how steep, but if I cant feel the blade at all I know I'm too shallow for my jawline, if I feel the blade a lot, I know I'm too steep. If I do it right I'm a winner! lol

 

[Esox]

It was fresh, and only a very tiny amount of tug with it. Probably the least I’ve ever experienced with any blade. I hadn’t planned on packing any Feathers as they gave me a horribly rough shave the only time I used it. Maybe I’ll try them now.

The Feather blades will still feel harsh in comparison to the Yellow. Its a fantastic blade. I still think they're as sharp if not sharper than Feathers, but a whole bunch smoother.

Using a razor that lacks rigidity, a sharper blade will work the best as it wont flex as much as a less sharp blade. This is why those that use EJ/Merkur and clones like Feathers so much.

A less rigid design and a milder blade like Derby Extra that so many people hate, will flex much more leading to tugging, skipping and weepers if enough pressure is applied to try and limit the blade flex and overcome the perceived "dull" blade. The same way so many blame those blades for being "dull" when used in a very mild razor like a Weishi or Baili.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

My shave today seems to be the opposite of yours, Jim. The Rockwell decided to save the best shave for last...

Almost no sting at all with the Skin Food. Aftershave today would have been a delight I think, but didn’t want to add a variable.

The Yellow sounds great. Feathers, maybe not. I find Feathers very sharp, but harsh. I've not used a Yellow though, but I will soon enough.

I am glad you finally got a good shave with the Rockwell, but it still isn't rigid. I've gotten a few good shaves with the Ikon X3, but it's not rigid. Ultimately we and I will pay for that, I believe.

That Skin Food is terrific stuff. I am so glad to have some, and thank you so much for being a member of the club. What club is that?



We should do a joint review of Skin Food.

Plowing snow or driving through it? lol

On a WTG pass, all you'll ever get is a reduction. The amount of reduction is dictated by blade sharpness, exposure, angle and pressure.

As a general rule of thumb, use the angle that falls between the cap and comb 50/50. Adjust from there shallower or steeper. Only you can decide the best angle for you with any razor and blade combination.

When I use my Grande I just let the razor do what it does by roughly splitting the difference between shallow and steep, but over my jawline both sides, I adjust to a slightly steeper angle to make the blade bite just a bit more because I know they're my hardest to BBS areas.

How do I know a shallow from a steep angle and how steep I need to be? I'm still learning just how steep, but if I cant feel the blade at all I know I'm too shallow for my jawline, if I feel the blade a lot, I know I'm too steep. If I do it right I'm a winner! lol

View attachment 830706

Probably I know what angle to use with the P-BOCS razor. Today, I overdid listening to advice to have a super steep angle, and it turned from a razor into a skin scraper.

If I return to what I did yesterday with the razor angle all should be fine.

This SASA stuff is new to me, and counter intuitive to everything I've learned, but I know a steep angle is the only way to get the P-BOCS razor to work. It is not an on its head razor!

What razor I use tomorrow will be determined later, maybe in the morning.



Now I need to look up the recipe for razor burn which includes aspirin. I'm thinking aspirin and aloe might be nice.

You both are so helpful, and I appreciate it very much.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Cal]

As a general rule of thumb, use the angle that falls between the cap and comb 50/50. Adjust from there shallower or steeper. Only you can decide the best angle for you with any razor and blade combination.

Using equal pressure from the cap and the guard (as per your 50/50 comment) are a given. That's the way razor manufacturers DESIGN their razors to be used.

Too many people think "steep" or "shallow" are the way to go because of the stupid dogma about them. "Steep" and "shallow" amounts are simply "tweaking" away from the "design angle" to suit individuals. With certain razors (e.g. the PBOCS) a little adjustment away from the design angle can be advantageous for everyone, whereas most razors are best used at their design angle.

I am hoping some PAA BOCS shavers will chime in. I need to know about leaving comb tracks with this razor, or not.

"The Tracks of my Tears"
But seriously, it's normal to leave tracks with OCs the same way it's normal to wipe all the lather off with a flat safety bar.

Hold your razor up and look at it "end on." Move it till an imaginary vertical line just touches both guard (comb) and cap. That's the design angle for your downward stroke (which for the PBOCS is quite steep already, no?). As mentioned above, tweaking may be required to suit YOU. But as your beard, skin, and face shape are different to everyone else's you have to discover this for YOURSELF.

While you shave don't concentrate hard, it puts your mind in the wrong place. BREATHE! So many people stop doing this at times, and a lot of the time, it does NOT help. A gentle and STEADY air supply is required at all times. STOP DREAMING! Nearly everyone spends either most, or some, of their shaving time in the dream world (i.e. thinking about the future or the past), be in the present moment. i.e. BE AWARE! Simply BE with your shave (i.e. completely aware of it and NOTHING ELSE) in a relaxed fashion. This way you will automatically do the right thing. (And sure, as simple as that is, it takes practice... because we've been programmed to stay in that dreamworld since school or earlier.)

There you have my opinion and two cents worth.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Cal, this is one of the best and most helpful posts ever.

Using equal pressure from the cap and the guard are a given; razor manufacturers DESIGN their razors to be used that way.

If I've ever heard it expressed exactly that way I don't remember it. Beautiful. Elegant.

Too many people think "steep" or "shallow" are the way to go because of the stupid dogma about them. "Steep" and "shallow" amounts are simply "tweaking" away from the "design angle" to suit individuals. With certain razors (e.g. the PBOCS) a little adjustment away from the design angle can be advantageous for everyone, whereas most razors are best used at their design angle.

Very instructive and helpful information.

"The Tracks of my Tears"

It's normal to leave tracks with OCs the same way it's normal to wipe all the lather off with a flat safety bar.

I can't argue this point as I'm a newbie, and more so a newbie with OC razors. However, I did not get razor burn when I left no tracks (but see below).

Hold your razor up and look at it "end on." Move the razor till an imaginary vertical line just touches both guard (comb) and cap. That's the design angle.

Why haven't I heard this before?

No, I'm not saying nobody has put it out there, or even in my face before. I haven't heard it before. Now I hear it.

The design angle is exactly (from looking at things you pointed out) how I shaved yesterday. Yesterday's shave was quite comfortable.

Today I shaved at a significantly more steep angle thinking that was more what people were telling me to do. Boy, was I wrong or what? No, no question mark needed. I was wrong, oh, boy, was I wrong.

Shaving at the design angle yesterday I did not notice any appreciable amount of lather left after my passes. Maybe there was a little, but certainly not much. My guess is, at the design angle, the cap also removes lather.

At the steeper angle I used today, only the combs touched the skin, and not the cap. That would leave, I believe, a lot of lather as the cap didn't come along later to sweep up what remained.

At least that makes sense to me from looking at the razor with the design angle in mind.

This design angle view of the end of the razor is incredibly simple and helpful. Obviously, it applies to all razors (unless there is something dreadfully wrong with their designers, or a major breakthrough of quantum leap magnitude is made in design).

The design angle for your downward stroke with the PBOCS is quite steep.

Yes, I see exactly what you are showing me.

As mentioned above, tweaking of the design angle in the direction of shallow or steep may be required to suit YOU. But as your beard, skin, and face shape are unique you have to discover this for YOURSELF.

This seems obvious to me, but only when I understand that there is a "design angle" designed into the razor by its maker.

While you shave don't concentrate hard, it puts your mind in the wrong place. BREATHE! So many people stop doing this at times, and a lot of the time, it does NOT help. A gentle and STEADY air supply is required at all times. STOP DREAMING! Nearly everyone spends either most, or some, of their shaving time in the dream world (i.e. thinking about the future or the past), be in the present moment. i.e. BE AWARE! Simply BE with your shave (i.e. completely aware of it and NOTHING ELSE) in a relaxed fashion. This way you will automatically do the right thing. (And sure, as simple as that is, it takes practice... because we've been programmed to stay in that dreamworld since school or earlier.)

Suzuki Roshi's Zen Mind, Beginner's Mind might have said much the same thing had he written or talked about shaving. My favorite part of his book is his little discussion about race horses and whips. I know what kind of horse I am.

I have long practiced meditation, and often see shaving as just another meditation. A meditation in action, of course.

There you have my opinion and two cents worth.

Maybe two of these.



Thank you so much for explaining all of this so well. Other than the information particular to the Phoenix Bakelite OC Slant, this information should be of value to anyone picking up any razor new to them or in any way unfamiliar.

 

[Esox]

Simply BE with your shave

Or maybe you need the black Darth Vader one. Stormtroopers cant use The Force! lol

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

2 Bayer Aspirins crushed.
A tiny amount of water.
More witch hazel, Dickinson's with alcohol.
A little dollop of Nivea SS Balm.
A little dollop of Aloe gel (drug store stuff, generic).

Mix it up as best you can. Apply liberally to razor burned face and neck. Apply again. Apply again. Let it dry.

This little home brewed razor burn remedy didn't do anything for about 15 minutes, but then it put out the smoldering fire on my face.

My neck, interestingly, wasn't as burned as my face.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Or maybe you need the black Darth Vader one. Storm Troopers cant use The Force! lol

Have to ask Yoda.

 

[Johnnynroy]

I’m getting my threads confused I think, but I find it interesting that Nick Shaves YouTube channel is something so many of us have watched. I really like his videos and wish he had more time to make them. I may end up like him next year once I start my residency too (hopefully).

I currently shave almost exactly like he does except my chin and under the jaw. I can’t get the hairs there anything close to presentable without a little ATG. Luckily, those areas seem immune to irritation and ingrown hairs. Nick’s grain seems a bit easier than mine, but the two XTG passes have done a fairly decent job for me. Much of my blade decisions have been due to his experiences, as well as my infatuation with the Rockwell 6s. I think my beard is more coarse than his though, or just more curly. I’ll try to find time to keep chatting with everyone while traveling. Might even try out the journal and diary area once I get my supply SE razor.


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[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I’m getting my threads confused I think, but I find it interesting that Nick Shaves YouTube channel is something so many of us have watched. I really like his videos and wish he had more time to make them. I may end up like him next year once I start my residency too (hopefully).

I currently shave almost exactly like he does except my chin and under the jaw. I can’t get the hairs there anything close to presentable without a little ATG. Luckily, those areas seem immune to irritation and ingrown hairs. Nick’s grain seems a bit easier than mine, but the two XTG passes have done a fairly decent job for me. Much of my blade decisions have been due to his experiences, as well as my infatuation with the Rockwell 6s. I think my beard is more coarse than his though, or just more curly. I’ll try to find time to keep chatting with everyone while traveling. Might even try out the journal and diary area once I get my supply SE razor.

I think it particularly weird that we watch - we includes me - videos of guys shaving. However, what I think is apparently nothing compared to what "regular" people think about people like us who watch videos of guys shaving.

Try telling people you know there are videos on YouTube of guys shaving, and people watch the videos. Don't let on that you're one of the people watching. I've done this and mostly gotten comments like what's the world coming to, or how people are really weirder than they used to be, or what a total waste of time, or I'd rather watch grass grow with a serious case of hay fever.

So, you're interviewing for a residency in what?

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

My SS Colonial General now has its Schick Proline blade installed, so it is next new razor up for a trial.

I haven't begun to think about what razor to use tomorrow. It could be any of those I own and use for shaving with the exception of the Ikon X2 which is both too aggressive and too severely lacks rigidity to risk using it with the razor burn I had today.

The General is said to be both mild and efficient. Whatever that means. Looking at it with the magnifying glass the gap is small, but there is a gap. It might be about like a NEW SC, or less. The blade, without even testing it, is rigid.

Okay, I tested it for rigidity. No surprise. It is as rigid as rigid can be. Single edge blade. Locked in tight as a tick. Of course it is rigid.

The stock photo is a lot better than my pictures of the razor. It looks heavy, I think, and it is, but it really doesn't feel that much heavier in my hand than the other heavy razors I own. I will weigh some of them some day soon maybe.

Talk about blade alignment. The blade is held by two little pins in the top cap. The blade snaps onto the pins like they were made to hold the blade. Precisely. The pins fit into little indentations in the bottom plate. The blade is held its in a vise, too, of course. Rigid blade. Rigid razor.



We'll find out soon enough!

 

[Johnnynroy]

My SS Colonial General now has its Schick Proline blade installed, so it is next new razor up for a trial.

I haven't begun to think about what razor to use tomorrow. It could be any of those I own and use for shaving with the exception of the Ikon X2 which is both too aggressive and too severely lacks rigidity to risk using it with the razor burn I had today.

View attachment 830786

The General is said to be both mild and efficient. Whatever that means. Looking at it with the magnifying glass the gap is small, but there is a gap. It might be about like a NEW SC, or less. The blade, without even testing it, is rigid.

Okay, I tested it for rigidity. No surprise. It is as rigid as rigid can be. Single edge blade. Locked in tight as a tick. Of course it is rigid.

The stock photo is a lot better than my pictures of the razor. It looks heavy, I think, and it is, but it really doesn't feel that much heavier in my hand than the other heavy razors I own. I will weigh some of them some day soon maybe.

Talk about blade alignment. The blade is held by two little pins in the top cap. The blade snaps onto the pins like they were made to hold the blade. Precisely. The pins fit into little indentations in the bottom plate. The blade is held its in a vise, too, of course. Rigid blade. Rigid razor.

View attachment 830787

We'll find out soon enough!

I am quite jealous of your SS General. I have somewhat decided that I will only add a razor to my Christmas list, but will not purchase any until the new year or possibly the next new year. The SS General is the only razor that I would have broken that for. The RR Hawk V2 is just a slight bit too light for me. I'll try it with a heavier handle to see what I think about the weight increase, but I think the SS General would be about right for me. I liked the weight of the Rockwell, and really liked my Variant. I have the Variant loaded with a used Shark Chrome blade, which ironically has given me amazing shaves in it. I am very excited for tomorrow's shave as it has been almost a month and a half since I've used the Variant and I've learned a MASSIVE amount in that timeframe.

On shaving with the General: Light pressure, like always. Try it without going ATG for your first time out. The increased expanse of the blade is a bit difficult to maneuver at first depending on how you shave. I have difficulty going east to west on my neck which is my first WTG pass so it took a bit for me to actually get used to the Hawk. The blade is very sharp and very efficient, so let it do the work. Just wipe the whiskers away. I have gotten really good shaves with the Hawk, unfortunately my weird grain pattern causes issues with the blade expanse of the AC razors. I will be going back to it at various times over the next month though.

 

[Esox]

Just an FYI, but for those interested in SE razors, I believe rabidus has moved onto the ATT SE1 and I think thats now his #1 razor from what I remember reading.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Where do you buy Schick Prolines?

Here is the link to a vendor in Japan. Buying is quite the adventure. Make sure you select and only accept the JP Post Small Packet shipping. This place has many different stores, and one of the vendors will maybe be sending you interesting emails. You may or may not pay shipping days after your purchase, and you have to watch the emails to see what to do.

Most people seem to use the Japanese vendor. I ordered and received Schick Injector 11 TWIN blades from Japan, but I screwed up the shipping and raised the price I paid a lot. Be careful with the shipping, please. I ordered here.

My injector blades arrived, but there was no tracking information, so their arrival was a surprise.

This is the link to a stateside vendor, Shear World, in, I believe, New York. Shipping is fast, like maybe three days. Prices are impressive. I ordered here.

This is the link to an ebay vendor. Good price, but on a large number of blades. If I knew I was going to use the blade a lot, this would be my choice of vendors I think. I've not ordered here.

FYI, Schick Proline 20 and Schick Proline 30 are the same blades, just different blade counts.