Opinions Wanted on Restoration

[Esox]

It shaves really well. 23 hours later and above my jawline is still BBS, below a very nice DFS.

Some quick pics. This is after working on the doors for 5 minutes or so with with some 600grit wet paper and then on the polishing wheel for maybe another 5 minutes only focusing on the doors with a very light pass over the safety bars.



Its coming up really well and it wont take much to remove those scratches. As for the base plate, its in better shape than the doors, but also much more difficult to polish. When I'm finished with it, it may look nice enough I wont even want it plated. I like the contrast between the red and yellow Brass.

 

[santamariasteve]

And maybe you've saved $125 dollars or so.

 

[Esox]

And maybe you've saved $125 dollars or so.

Around what I had in mind for a nice Single Ring haha.

 

[G.W.]

That's cleaning up pretty good! I'd recommend a coat of wax over the whole thing, unless you're wanting to let it grow a patina.

 

[Esox]

That's cleaning up pretty good! I'd recommend a coat of wax over the whole thing, unless you're wanting to let it grow a patina.

It is cleaning up well, I'm a bit surprised myself. If I take my time, the doors should be nearly flawless when finished, but I tend to lose patience working on such things.

Forming a patina is something that been on my mind since I cleaned and polished my NEW SC. Yellow brass forms a patina much more slowly than red brass. The cap on my NEW SC is red brass, and if I dont wipe it dry after every use, by the next day those water drops have formed a nearly black patina where they dried. Simple and easy to clean off in a matter of seconds with a little Bar Keepers Friend, but with the yellow brass base plate of the SC that doesnt seem to happen. Yellow brass seems to dull and lose its shine, but it doesnt turn black nearly as quickly. A good cleaning once a week and it stays in tip top shape.

Only the barrel of the handle on the Regent is red brass and the rest of the razor appears to be yellow brass so not overly concerned with it yet, but something to keep an eye on for sure.

I did manage to fix the knob dropping issue. It will still drop slightly, maybe 1/64" but thats a far cry from the 1/4" or more it was dropping. I cant seem to make out why it has the one lazy door though...

 

[romsitsa]

I did manage to fix the knob dropping issue. It will still drop slightly, maybe 1/64" but thats a far cry from the 1/4" or more it was dropping. I cant seem to make out why it has the one lazy door though...

Nice work, hope majority of the damage can be polished away without much material loss.

If you look at the pictures of the head, there are some giveaways.
The T-bar is straight, the blade gap seems to be even, the base plate and doors are paralel.
I think the base plate and the end connectors are bent down on one side.

Adam

 

[Esox]

Nice work, hope majority of the damage can be polished away without much material loss.

If you look at the pictures of the head, there are some giveaways.
The T-bar is straight, the blade gap seems to be even, the base plate and doors are paralel.
I think the base plate and the end connectors are bent down on one side.

Adam

Thanks, I think it will polish up pretty well given the time and inclination to do it lol.

Here are pictures of all four sides. Assuming the end connectors are the parts that would be covered by the end caps if it had any, one side they seem level, the other side not so much. The doors on one side dont seem to close as evenly as I first thought, and it is tightened down on a blade the same as it would be for shaving with it.

It does shave very well and I cant feel any difference shaving with either side.



I have no idea what would make them not be level and no idea how to adjust that.

If by T bar you mean the center bar, yes its dead straight and completely solid.

Thanks for the input.

 

[romsitsa]

Thanks for the photos.
In pic nr. 1 the end connectors (the tabs holding the doors) are roughly level, in nr 2. both connectors are pushed up. This is why the doors look like a slant.
Compare the angles with Achims example:
http://www.mr-razor.com/Rasierer/One-Piece solid guard bar/1940 Regent Tech.JPG

Maybe the base plate is straight, you could check it with a ruler or on a flat surface.

Adam

 

[Esox]

Thanks for the photos.
In pic nr. 1 the end connectors (the tabs holding the doors) are roughly level, in nr 2. both connectors are pushed up. This is why the doors look like a slant.
Compare the angles with Achims example:
http://www.mr-razor.com/Rasierer/One-Piece solid guard bar/1940 Regent Tech.JPG

Maybe the base plate is straight, you could check it with a ruler or on a flat surface.

Adam

Short of critical measurements, everything appears straight and square except the center bar, end connectors and one safety bar. I dont have feeler gauges so I cant measure that gap but I'd guess it to be .004 - .005". I'd further guess that all parts that are out of level, to be out around the same .004" - .005".



The lazy door feels like its binding on opening and so far I havent been able to figure out where. A very light touch opens it fully.

The safety bar itself is extremely rigid in place. I tried lifting the end thats lower with a small screwdriver but gave up when the shaft of the screwdriver itself started to flex. The end thats higher is just as solidly in place and refuses to move at all.

I just finished shaving with it again and I thought I felt a slight scratchiness from the center of the blade on one side, so I guess the one safety bar explains that. It may take a more gentle hand than mine to fix that, and not sure where to begin anyway.

 

[Esox]

The safety bar itself is extremely rigid in place.

That should read *center* bar, not safety bar.

 

[romsitsa]

Hello,

I know that, based on camera angles, photos can distort dimensions of the object, but I drew some guide lines to roughly show what is off.
I suspect the L shaped tab of the "lazy" door interferes with the corner of the safety bar that is slightly bent.

Adam

 

[troy]

Looking great! since you say it shaves great as is I would just go with it the way it is. Even if something does look a little wonky, the shave is what matters. If you do decide something is more off than you thought I'd send it to the Capt.

 

[imatabor]

Hello,

I know that, based on camera angles, photos can distort dimensions of the object, but I drew some guide lines to roughly show what is off.
I suspect the L shaped tab of the "lazy" door interferes with the corner of the safety bar that is slightly bent.

View attachment 816833

Adam

Looking good so far. I would gently tweek the ends. Here is an old post.

Yes, the arms that operate the silo doors ... yours do look uneven. Go easy, the wrench in my pic is huge, I didn't want to go out to my shop to get a baby one.

I use the Crescent because the flat jaws won't leave a mark like pliers. It won't take much -- this technique can also be used on razors with endcaps but extra care must be taken to keep from popping the cap off.

 

[Esox]

Hello,

I know that, based on camera angles, photos can distort dimensions of the object, but I drew some guide lines to roughly show what is off.
I suspect the L shaped tab of the "lazy" door interferes with the corner of the safety bar that is slightly bent.

View attachment 816833

Adam

Adam.

Thank you for taking the time to make that picture! It does highlight the issues, but my problem is, I dont know how or where to begin fixing them.

Looking great! since you say it shaves great as is I would just go with it the way it is. Even if something does look a little wonky, the shave is what matters. If you do decide something is more off than you thought I'd send it to the Capt.

Thanks. Slow but steady progress. I only wish I had more patience for this type of work lol. A 20oz Estwing isnt the tool for this job! lol

Looking good so far. I would gently tweek the ends. Here is an old post.

Thanks for that I'll give it a read and see what I can manage!

 

[Esox]

You guys....

Thank you all so much for the help. I have the razor sorted and now I can carry on with the polishing and making it pretty lol.

The post by nemo in this thread taught me how: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/sheraton-door-alignment.348214/#post-5155072

Thanks to imatabor for pointing me there and to romsitsa for your patient guidance. Nagyon szépen köszönjük!

Notice the center bar at the top of the doors.



Somehow those doors got torqued. I had to adjust one end connector on each end of the razor to return the doors to square.

The information and knowledge on this forum never ceases to amaze me.

 

[imatabor]

You guys....

Thank you all so much for the help. I have the razor sorted and now I can carry on with the polishing and making it pretty lol.

The post by nemo in this thread taught me how: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/sheraton-door-alignment.348214/#post-5155072

Thanks to imatabor for pointing me there and to romsitsa for your patient guidance. Nagyon szépen köszönjük!

Notice the center bar at the top of the doors.

View attachment 816965 View attachment 816966 View attachment 816967 View attachment 816968

Somehow those doors got torqued. I had to adjust one end connector on each end of the razor to return the doors to square.

The information and knowledge on this forum never ceases to amaze me.

@nemo

 

[KeenDogg]

Good job, John and Doug! Nice work, OP!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[Ad Astra]

Bump for some excellent razor-restore info.

Some sharp eyes and possessors of Gillete know-how ...

AA

 

[Esox]

Bump for some excellent razor-restore info.

Some sharp eyes and possessors of Gillete know-how ...

AA

Thanks!

Too that bump. I thought I'd add the video that explains how to fix the knob dropping issue. Its a very easy fix once understood and I fixed mine in a matter of minutes.

 

[Ad Astra]

@Esox , many thanks. Mine seems to have gotten tighter just from cleaning and fooling with it.

They don't sing, they are noisy shavers! It's pretty cool, actually.

Now if I could be sure if it's a 46 or 46-47 Aristocrat, it would be nice .. . Unsure even after studying Achim's site.

A very interesting razor, to be sure. Evolution of the Super Speed going on here ... It is sturdier than later TTOs.


AA