New to Hones

[Ice-Man]

Right gents be gentle with me please right has any of you used these to hone a razor


And used one of these 15000 slate stone to finish



Oh and one of these to see the edge


Yes I'm new to all of this as I have these but it tugs a little but the shaves are not bad.

 

[joamo]

My preference for viewing the bevel is below, small and handy, easily taken along to take a good look at prospective purchases. I have used the type you pictured and personally find it cumbersome.

 

[H31N]

I have the TAIDEAs, the welsh "15K" in small and a 60x loupe.

My preference for viewing the bevel is below, small and handy, easily taken along to take a good look at prospective purchases. I have used the type you pictured and personally find it cumbersome.

Yes, i find these loupes to be more useful than my 100x version.

The TAIDEAs are not good enough for a good preparation for a finisher. Yes, the welsh "15K" is able to provide a workable "every day edge" even under these circumstances. If i use my Naniwa combination stones and not the TAIDEAs, it is much less work and the edge has no microchipping. After the welsh slate the edge is very much up to the maximum, the welsh slate can provide.

The TAIDEAs are good stones, if you want to start on the cheap. If you learn to hone on these stones, all other artificial hones will be easy. For razors, the TAIDEAs are better to be used with oil, then they are able to refine the edge a bit higher and with less risk for microchipping. But the migration from water to oil might not be a good idea for a beginner. You can use the stone with whatever you want, as long as you routinely wash the stone after each use and to assure, all the oil residue is removed is a tricky part.

Since you got usable edges so far, obviously you mastered at least the more difficult challenges the TAIDEAs provide. Make good use of the loupe and look for microchipping. Each little chip leads to an edge that harms the skin, these small wounds will no longer be a part of the routine shave, when you lean hone the edge better.

Good start so far - now try to get as much practice as you can. Some cheap razors from china as test subjects might be recommendable.

 

[sfeile]

Hi Ian!
I've used the 1k/3k version of those stones, as well as the slate.
I found the 3k was actually more efficient than the 1k for setting bevels. The 1k side didn't seem to want to cut very quickly at all. Very soft as well. Needed lapped frequently.
Not too bad for a starter stone.
The slate was not too bad. I don't think it was at the grit level actually advertised, but it gave a shaveable edge that wasn't bad.

If I may make a recommendation, look into the SHAPTON Ceramic KUROMAKU stones. They are Japanese branded Shapton Pro stones at half the cost of "Shapton" branded. I've recently upgraded to those and wish I would have bought them from the start. VERY efficient and very durable with a nice case that doubles as a stone holder.
I got the 2k, 5k, and 8k versions, and follow with a j-nat finisher. I feel the same set-up followed even by the slate you mentioned would serve you very well for a long long time.

As far a a loupe, any that show you a magnified edge will help you out a lot. I bought a couple different ones, but I use a 40X with little LEDs on it the most. Can't recall the price off hand, but it was $20 or less.

 

[Gamma]

Generally speaking, looking at a magnified bevel isn't going to tell you all that much about the edge, especially when you're new. Collecting data is only great when you know how to process it. If your edges are tugging, then most likely, your bevel isn't set well enough. If your sight is good enough, viewing down the egde under a hard light can show you whether or not you have the 'edge' in sight - if you see any flat areas that will show up as bright spots, you need to keep honing on your bevel setter. You also might want to try to learn a test - I believe in the fingernail test because, when executed correctly, you can't miss. But it takes time to learn.
I'm not familiar with your synths - but like all hones, they have to be flat and checking them for flatness is a requirement. Keeping the softer types of stones flat can prove to be more of a task than imagined.
The Welsh 15k never impressed me as being a good hone - but perhaps there are better examples out there, dunno... had one that was sold as a 'killer' finisher and it was a doorstop to me.
I don't know much about your loup - but, to be honest, I usually recomment using a lower magnification optic of a somehwhat higher quality. Generally, I suggest using it for making sure your striations are continuous across the bevel, not so much for intricate inspection. I use a 4x loupe most days. I have a 10x and a 15x also, but they are rarely out. Maybe once a month I'll put a blade on my scope. Anyway - back to your tugging - check your bevel setter for flatness, and if it's out make it flat. Hone your bevel to it's max on that stone and proceed up the grit latter after you hit max on your lower grit stone. The bulk of 'sharp' is developed early on - you have to nail it there or you'll never get it. Keep honing, hone a lot and hone all day - just hone hone hone - hone it good, you'll get there.

 

[Ice-Man]

Thanks guys I have the Naniwa combination on route for now, till funds build back up as I had to buy the wife a new car. And that keeps her off my back you all know what they are like.

 

[Mr.Tee]

As said above, if you have decent eyes that alone will help you get to an ok place. Under really good light the apex or very tip of the bevel should look like an even nothingness if that makes sence. If you think your done, every razor that has shaved well for me will cut off arm hair above the skin, the more hair it freely pops of the keener the edge. Its just a gauge but has served me well.

 

[Ice-Man]

Right just found a bigger rabbet hole and found the mad hatter lol, right bought these and they are on route

First one
King KW-65 #1000/6000 w/nagura



Second one Shapton M5 Cream #1000 sharpner




3rd one
THURINGIAN CELEBRATED WATER RAZOR HONE



And the last one

Chinese Straight Razor Hone + JNAT nagura




So down this Rabbet hole I went.

 

[David]

Jumped in head first!

 

[Ice-Man]

@Dcaddo111

Oh yes David!!
Shawn!! is down here somewhere, he must be lower than me and I'm falling is there a bottom nobody knows. But he will pipe up soon, I'm sure just seen his bungee cord and he's in for a shock I snipped it on the way down so he aint getting back up .

 

[sfeile]

@Dcaddo111

Oh yes David!!
Shawn!! is down here somewhere, he must be lower than me and I'm falling is there a bottom nobody knows. But he will pipe up soon, I'm sure just seen his bungee cord and he's in for a shock I snipped it on the way down so he aint getting back up .

I don't know whose cord you clipped, but I wasn't smart enough to hook one up at the top........

 

[Slash McCoy]

I have never used a welsh slate. But as for the Naniwa setup I rather like it. Very easy to use with good consistency. The only thing I like better is lapping film. I post finish on lapped balsa with a careful application of diamond paste. Nothing better. Period.

 

[alpster]

Right just found a bigger rabbet hole and found the mad hatter lol, right bought these and they are on route

First one
King KW-65 #1000/6000 w/nagura
View attachment 800784


Second one Shapton M5 Cream #1000 sharpner

View attachment 800785


3rd one
THURINGIAN CELEBRATED WATER RAZOR HONE

View attachment 800788

And the last one

Chinese Straight Razor Hone + JNAT nagura


View attachment 800789View attachment 800790 View attachment 800791

So down this Rabbet hole I went.

The Shapton 1K is an awesome bevel setter. Go easy, as it will remove a lot of metal quickly. Looks like you are officially on the road . Excellent!

 

[SliceOfLife]

The Thuri looks like it needs to be lapped. Once that's done, I expect it will be the best finisher. I'd probably go to it right off the 6k, but you may find it easier to use the Welsh or Cnat with jnat slurry then to the Thuri since the Thuri is 1*5", and may require you to go very slow until you get used to it.

 

[Ice-Man]

I have never used a welsh slate. But as for the Naniwa setup I rather like it. Very easy to use with good consistency. The only thing I like better is lapping film. I post finish on lapped balsa with a careful application of diamond paste. Nothing better. Period.

Slash McCoy I have some diamond paste and some lapping film I think its 3 micron the pink

The Shapton 1K is an awesome bevel setter. Go easy, as it will remove a lot of metal quickly. Looks like you are officially on the road . Excellent!

Thanks alpster and yes Shawn said about them being keen.

The Thuri looks like it needs to be lapped. Once that's done, I expect it will be the best finisher. I'd probably go to it right off the 6k, but you may find it easier to use the Welsh or Cnat with jnat slurry then to the Thuri since the Thuri is 1*5", and may require you to go very slow until you get used to it.

SliceOfLife It looks like it has some cut marks in it, but I would say once it lapped out it should look good. and yes to the going slow as I do at the moment.

 

[Alum of Potash]

From what you have acquired, I would recommend trying to get the best edge you can off the King 1k/6k first. Once you're getting decent shaves with it, then move to the small Thuringian as a finisher using a laterally-biassed X-stroke pass (I have one of these and it works well for me in this way). Here it helps to keep the King 1k side freshly lapped and to use the synth nagura stone to clean the 6k side when it clogs up with swarf.

The other stones being a bit redundant, I would return them if unused for a refund.

 

[sfeile]

Thanks alpster and yes Shawn said about them being keen.

You didn't tell me you were getting a shapton too!!!
If you had, I'd have recommended the 2K instead of the 1K. They really are freaking FAST! I do my bevels on a 2K shapton, it just works.

As Alum suggested, if it's unused and isn't too much of a hassle, maybe swap the 1K shapton for an 8K.
You have a 1/6 already, an 8 would give you a really quick smooth prep for your slate or thuri.

 

[Steve56]

The Shapton M-series (M5 and M7) are older generation stones mounted on a ceramic plate like the glass series. The '5' stands for 5mm etc. I've never tried one but they are not the same stones as the kuromaku or Pros.

Shapton m5

Cheers, Steve

 

[Ice-Man]

Well the first one has arrived, all I have done is wash it in dish soap.

 

[sfeile]

Looks Nice Ian! Can't wait to see it lapped up!