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Using Pastes to Finish an Edge

I'll take the subjects of using patests one topic at a time.
Honing up from bevel-set to finish on pastes is another subject.
The tactics involved in both disciplines borrow from one another but they also vary greatly.

Seems that the Dark Side has been mucking about on the world of Pastes.
So, I figured I'd just shine some light on the shadows.

Known fact - pastes work.
Known fact - pastes have been around since at least the mid 1800s. Crox came later though.
Known fact - men have been using pastes, Crox included, to happily/successfully finish or touch up razors for a long time. Known fact - not everyone likes using pastes for many reasons - some subjective, others objective.

As Craig pointed out, slurry on a stone is paste on a stone. There is a difference in a natural paste/slurry on a natural substrate (stone) as opposed to say - Crox on balsa.
But - in essence - they are in fact the same exact thing. The premise is the same, even if the material isn't.
So - if you're honing with slurry. You are honing with paste. Deal with it.

Me - I started out using/needing crox to build a woking edge. My off-the-stone edges weren't 'there' and they tugged.
Crox alleviated the tugging, by enhancing the sharp quotient.
But Crox is not, for me, the worlds best edge builder. But - it's cheap and it works. When starting out, dropping 300 on an Escher, 200 on a Jnat, or whatever - seemed a bit oppressive. A 5 buck bottle of Crox put me in the game, gave me a benchmark to beat, and so on. Sure - the edges weren't stupendously smooth like a baby's butt. But that was a lot better than the edge pulling whiskers out of my face by a long shot. It worked.

Me - I don't like Crox, but that doesn't mean I'm gonna say it doesn't work. I've met many men using Crox for decades and they love it - so it's my feeling that the part I don't like about Crox is probably a subjective one. Crox is not the only paste out there though.

My thoughts about pastes now, as opposed to long ago when I was still struggling with figuring stuff out.

I'd prefer to hone on a stone any day. I'd prefer that stone to be a natural one but I do like/own/use synthetic stones up to 8k.
To me - synth stones are just like synth pastes - a block form as opposed to powder, but still manmade.
I love my 1k C and Shapton 1.5k stones very much. Same for my Snow White and Fuji. In a purely objective sense, I see zero difference between finishing on pastes or a synth stone from an aesthetic point of view. It's all manmade goop.

The focus here is on finishing - so, finishing the edge on synth or natural...
I prefer natural hones - period.

Now - and this is an important fact that the anti-crox/paste Storm Troopers seem to miss completely.
And that is this. You just don't know who is going to like what. For all I or anyone else knows, there are going to be any number of people that like what we like or hate what we like. Just because I think stone a gives the best edge - that doesn't mean person b has to use stone a. In fact - they may hate stone a. Saying Crox is no good because I don't like using it is ridiculous. It's ok to not like it, it's not really ok to say it's no good since we know that others do like it and that they think it's good.

You also don't know who has what size budget to spend on stuff either. So, someone asking for budget-centric options might be well served with an inexpensive paste for final sharpening.

Bevels rounding, edges being destroyed, et.al. from pastes.

I do not see bevels rounding to an appreciable degree from using them on a linen hanger as a final finisher strep.
I've been through this in at least 2 other threads - sorry folks - it just does not happen.
Yes - you can round a bevel with an abrasive if you try to. I have done that when honing on them from bevel-set.
That doesn't mean 5 passes on a taught hanger is going to do that.
For what it's worth - honing on slurry (paste) on a stone will add convexity to a bevel but not to any degree where things become problematic. Saying pastes are damaging bevels when they're used as a finisher on a linen hanger is nonsense. While it can happen if you lean on the blade when the're a lot of slack in the webbing and do about hundred laps - the simple fact is that noone does that. It's comparable to saying cars are dangerous because people die in car accidents.

The bolded text above is key.
The old wives tale of damaging bevels from using paste on a hanging linen is bunk - while there is usually always going to be convexing of the bevel to some degree whenever you do just about anything to it - that conveying does not equate to damage, nor is it significantly different than what happens when using other mediums in other ways.
I tend to belive that stropping on leather adds to a slightly convex apex - but that measurement is so minuscule that it does not matter. This is not damage. You can call it damage but it's not damage in a conventional sense. As far as I'm concerned, this is best viewed as normal wear, just like the wear from shaving with that edge. Who says they damaged their razor with their face? No one.

Edge damage from pastes.
Well, you can damage an edge on a stone, or a strop. Can - does not mean will.
But - inherently, pastes do not destroy edges. Diamond paste leaves critically clean surgical type edges. Other pastes will usually show less of technically perfect edge though. Even so - they can 'look' markedly better than one off a stone.
Looks don't mean much though. Just sayin' - not seeing damage here. Toothy? Maybe sometimes, this can be ironed out with technique in most cases. Or using a finer abrasive afterwards. Or both.
Now - can you damage an edge on paste? Yes. Can does not mean will.
How? - first, you should be ignorant of how the paste is best used. This will guarantee honing/shaving failure. Next - use the wrong paste - buy some goop on Amazon that is sold for autobody workers... another guaranteed fail.
However - after becoming educated in the material, and it's application - things can start to look up.
But - take the best paste in the world and use it incorrectly - fail.

Once, I coated a poly strop with Crox - like it was a candy coated shell. No good. Bad edge. I blamed the Crox - there's proabably a post where I mention this here, maybe on another forum - don't remember but I made mention of the 'bad Crox' edge. That was years ago. I would not do that today.

Another time - I did about 50 laps on a heavily coated Croxed strop. No good, bad edge - was like a freakin' saw on my skin. Pink lather, sore face, etc. I complained about the Crox then too. Yet - I was doing 200 laps on diamond pastes and getting a pretty good result. Different abrasives, techniques, etc. I don't think that one should, in general, do a bizillion laps on pastes and expect a great return though.

I learned from my mistakes, and through the experiences of others; I know better now. Generally speaking - a light dusting of abrasive, taught strop, few passes. This works pretty well to produce a shaivng edge in most cases. Another thing is that some pastes work better for me after 5k than they do after 8k or 12k. that's another subject though.

Honeslty - I don't have Crox in the house now; we don't get along. I have better options on hand so I use them instead.
But - if I had was Crox, I'd make it work. And, I bet I could take an 8k edge and dial it up on the green stuff reasonably well for most people that haven't had their opinions swayed by the Dark Side.

Bees knees edge? Prob not for me but for someone else - it just might be so. For someone on a tight budget, possibly a great option. Do I prefer other options - duh, yeah. But not everyone is in the position of having the curse of choice and even if they do - that doesn't mean they'll like what I do.

Ive been honing for a good while now, I've been through many exploits and had many opinions - some of those opinions are still holding true today, and many have been superceded by ideas beased on better information. I have pastes and I used them sparingly - for me now, they're a fun, informative and eye opening detour.
Who knows - in 5 years I may feel differently about things and some of what I put down here will then be obsolete. I'll worrry about that when/if it happens. Until then, what I think is above. What I have yet to learn is ahead of me. While the stuck-in-the-mud crew wants to hold onto the regurgitated info they read somewhere as the only truth that can ever be, I try to deveop my interests, skill and opinions continually - as a result - me, my skills and knowlege continue to grow. .

Two quotes I live by (there are others, these two are usually on my mind pretty often though)...

Change is inevitable - it's the only constant thing in life.

Consistency is the last refuge of the unimaginative.
 
Known fact - pastes work.
Kind of a silly point. Sandpaper works. Rubbing rusty metal on a strop "works". Working and being ideal are very different things.
Known fact - pastes have been around since at least the mid 1800s. Crox came later though.
Indeed they have. I've shaved off some <100 yr old pastes, at least a half dozen different types. They are GODAWFUL. They make a Norton shave feel good.

Known fact - men have been using pastes, Crox included, to happily/successfully finish or touch up razors for a long time.
I don't think you should draw many conclusions based around this until you've shaved off Razoreen or one of the other similar vintage products a few times.

As Craig pointed out, slurry on a stone is paste on a stone. There is a difference in a natural paste/slurry on a natural substrate (stone) as opposed to say - Crox on balsa.
But - in essence - they are in fact the same exact thing. The premise is the same, even if the material isn't.
So - if you're honing with slurry. You are honing with paste. Deal with it.
Not at all. Firstly, many natural abrasive particles have behaviors not found in synthetic abrasives. Jnats and coticules are two very obvious examples, but they are not alone. In fact most if not ALL natural abrasives offer distinct behaviors that synthetics do not replicate. But even more obviously: edge leading vs edge trailing. Unyielding surface vs yielding surface. Abrasive in liquid suspension vs not. I think if you spend a few minutes you can think of several more reasons Slurry honing is dissimilar to pasted stropping.



The focus here is on finishing - so, finishing the edge on synth or natural...
I prefer natural hones - period.
Your thoughts largely parallel my own. I will note that there are a handful of synthetic stones with behaviors and/or results that I find similar to naturals, and as such feel are decent options. Likewise there are plenty of naturals I find extremely subpar. Pastes on the other hand, I've yet to find one that gave me what I would consider today to be an acceptable shave. Yes, they function for beginners; but the quality of the shaves is so far below what stone finishes are capable of that I can't consider them an acceptable option for myself.

You also don't know who has what size budget to spend on stuff either. So, someone asking for budget-centric options might be well served with an inexpensive paste for final sharpening.
True, but I'd think the money would be better invested in a small coticule. I've picked up 5x1" coti's and even slightly bigger ones on MANY occasions from eBay for under $30. I've sold thin slabs of coti in much larger sizes for under $50 on multiple occasions. TSS has smaller bouts under $50 on a fairly regular basis. KCB has a Pierre du sud-ouest on eBay for a $50 BINOBO that I've been resisting the urge to buy, and I consider that stone equal to a Thuri in performance, others have said it's similar to their Jnat edges. It's been there for weeks without any takers. Getting a good finishing stone doesn't cost a fortune. In my opinion, the difference in quality between a Crox/Balsa edge and a Coti/Thuri/Pierre/Jnat edge is so significant that the extra $10-30 is a no-brainer. Pastes exist in my opinion as a way for a beginner to get an edge that shaves before they develop the skills necessary to finish a razor on a stone. This development should not take long, as such, they are limited to being a short-term stop gap measure... based on my own experience with them.


Edge damage from pastes.
There's some evidence to this which you mention and have stated your disagreements with. You base that on your experience. My own experience is this.

1. Pastes absolutely alter the geometry of the edge in a rather significant way. I can't say it's for better or worse, but this is patently evident at 400x magnification. I've mentioned before but it bears repeating... when I buy a Used strop, the first thing I do is use it, and compare the before/after of the edge under the scope to note the geometry change and find out if the strop has paste residue on it. If it does, the linen component of the strop is garbage. I've spent WEEKS trying to clean paste residue off strops. It never, ever, ever comes out completely.
2. The feel of a paste-stropped edge is uniquely its own and identifiable across every type of pasted edge I've tried. They share a particular feel not found in stone-finished edges. This evidences some particularity in the effect of a pasted strop on an edge vs a hone finish. I don't like it, at all. Others may, but that's back to your point on opinions. The closest thing I can relate this feel to is the feel of edge damage, which I'm most familiar with from overly slow and ineffectual stones. It's not identical, but it has some similarities. Now many of these stones are used and liked by others. The first, grey stone Ekretz sent me had some of this behavior. My first Apache had this behavior. Cnats have this behavior. Welsh slates have this behavior. If you buy a building slate and cut a hone out of it, it's most likely going to have this behavior. Few stones don't to at least some degree; but stones I consider poor to mediocre finishers are those which show it strongly.

For that reason, I'm inclined to disinterestedly agree with peoples assumptions/assertions that what pastes do to an edge can be posited as "damage". For me, for my face, the performance and feel of a pasted edge is WILDLY inferior to the performance and feel of a honed edge of similar or even moderately coarser grit. This suggests that it's not crazy to presume an element of damage to the edge from paste use. Now extending that to a larger scale and saying that you'll ruin your razor or render the edge unusable I can see taking exception to, however; I think there's plenty of evidence out there to suggest that pasted stropping does more damage to an edge than honing on a good quality hone, natural or synthetic.
 
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Most people back in the day said 8-15. My recommendation would be start at 3. Shave. Then do 2 more before your next shave and repeat until you don't notice any improvement. Keep track of how many you did total. Subtract 1, and do that in the future for that razor (It can probably be applied to similar grinds as well)
 
Nice write up Gamma! The controversy on paste or not to paste is a tempest in a teapot to me. What we are doing with all honing is using an abrasive to shape and polish steel into an edge that we find comfortable on our face as we shave. I certainly have my favorite methods to do this and could preach you a sermon on the reasons I love a coticule edge, but I know that there are plenty of folks that don't care for a coti edge at all. I am not going to tell them they are wrong. I will simply try to steer them in directions they might like better. As far as damage is concerned, all honing could be viewed as damage if you want to. After all part of the original razor has been removed by force. I prefer to see it as improved. I used to get to blow things up occasionally for Uncle Sam. In those cases I could look on a pile of rubble as being the desired effect. It was exactly the improvement I wanted. So ones man's damage is another man's desired effect.
 
Kind of a silly point.
Not at all silly.
Yes lots of things work but its a counter to claims that pastes don't work.
They do in fact work. Well for some, not so well for others. But they still work.


I don't think you should draw many conclusions based around this until you've shaved off Razoreen or one of the other similar vintage products a few times.
I base my solid conclusion on knowing, having met and still do know barbers that have used pastes extensively across their careers. In fact, the gentleman that used to sharpen/hone all the razors for all the barbers in this area has said just exactly that also. I can add in the numbers of people that I've 'met' online that use or have used pastes successfully. The existence of b/s products out there are another topic and has no bearing on this topic at all.

Not at all.
It's exactly the same thing - a solid in a suspension. Chem 101 - colloid. It is what it is. There are sharpening manuals out there that call slurry 'paste' or 'mud' too.


True, but I'd think the money would be better invested in a small coticule.
I try to not think for other people where their money is a topic of concern. I love Cotis but Crox is 5 bucks and it returns an instant positive result. Crox worked to keep me in the game early on. The Coti alone wasn't enough.


There's some evidence to this which you mention and have stated your disagreements with. You base that on your experience. My own experience is this....

Evidence from others... I know all about the 'evidence'. The experience of others is another topic also.
I have my own, and a lot of it. I don't see damage. I have not seen damage. I suspect I will not see damage.


Blade geometry is altered on stones, strops and your face. Call it what you like - I won't call it damage.
I can create damage using pastes if I want to. But no one uses pastes in a way that does that.
Well - unelss they're trying to 'prove' that pastes damage edges.
Normal wear isn't what I call damage.


You don't like pastes - fine. No one said that anyone had to. No one dies from trying it.
Pastes are an option. Like them love them hate them or despise them, whatever - they're still an option.
Pastes are not my number one option and Crox is still not my friend. I don't even own Crox.
But - they can be used without damaging a razor and they will bring up the keenness of an edge.
If the only two choices on the planet are - tugging coti edge or decently shaving crox edge.. I go with the latter.

All I can see in all of these discussions is that there's a a common denominator, a pervading ideology, that revolves around what someone else thinks.

Meanwhile - I run a blade over a pasted linen for 350+ passes and I was able to return the bevel's faces to 'flat' in 20 seconds.

In light of that - I'll stick to keeping happens here in real time as my reality and everyone else can go play follow the leader.
 
It's exactly the same thing - a solid in a suspension. Chem 101 - colloid. It is what it is. There are sharpening manuals out there that call slurry 'paste' or 'mud' too.


In what way is Chromox on a balsa strop a solid in a liquid suspension?
 
If I still had a bottle of Cromox, I'd show it to you. Its a solid in a suspension.
The pastes I have here are just that - liquid.

But yes - after it dries, it's not that anymore - but that's what it was to begin with.

If it's still wet on the strop it's still a suspension though..
For the last year or so - I've been working with wet paste here, just because I don't keep the strops around after I use them.
I usually start fresh each time to make sure I don't have cross contamintion or other issues to factor in.
 
Nice write up Gamma! The controversy on paste or not to paste is a tempest in a teapot to me.

TY. It's one of those things that seems to polarize the community for some reason.
If it gets heated in here, I'll take the post down. I'm tired of that nonsense.

Not looking for arguments. Just clearing out some bad air.
 
The original premise was that for a beginner, an under developed Norton 8k edge finished on CrOx was a not going to produce an acceptable result. I stand by that assertion. Why would we recommend a solution to a newcomer that we personally would not use. I recommended that an OP pass on the tired old Norton 8k to CrOx and get a small Coticule. I even pointed him to TSS. Then It was suggested I was proffering mythology.
 
If I still had a bottle of Cromox, I'd show it to you. Its a solid in a suspension.
The pastes I have here are just that - liquid.

But yes - after it dries, it's not that anymore - but that's what it was to begin with.

That's the point. In the state we use it in, it's abrasive particles embedded on a flexible, but not liquid surface. Slurry is abrasive particles free in a liquid solution on a solid, inflexible surface. That, along with the other distinctions make the manner in which abrasive stropping works compared with slurry honing very different. I just thought it was a rather inaccurate comparison and unnecessary to your point. That said, honing on slurry does change the character of the edge vs honing on clear water often times quite noticeably. Very minor changes in technique in honing can produce extremely disparate results, so I think it's rather unusual to believe that there are not significant distinctions between edges produced via honing and via abrasive stropping. For me these distinctions clearly make the honed edge superior, and for a number of reasons, I see no problem with asserting that the cause of this can be ascribed to the abrasive stropping causing greater edge damage than the honing. It's not something I spend much time studying because I'm quite certain I don't like the edges produced by abrasive pastes, so it would be time wasted to prove scientifically why that is. Others have tried. You think they set out to prove their own hypothesis, and you may be right. But their results match my experience, so I'll say that I don't doubt them, not out of habit or to dissuade people who like pastes, simply because they seem reasonably good explanations for what I've experienced.

With that said, I have recommended people start with Chromox as their finisher. I've helped teach people to hone and started them off with Chromox and watched them continue to use it until their honing developed to the point where their stone finishes surpassed the paste. This didn't happen for all of them, but it happened for a sizable majority. You're correct that there is a matter of taste involved as well. I had a couple people I helped get started try both Coticules and Naniwa SS's as a finisher and prefer the Naniwa. Again a sizable majority preferred the coticule, but there were exceptions. My suspicion is that in some cases it may have more to do with the preference of the stone in use than the preference of a perfected edge off the stone in use, but that's for each honer to decide for themselves.
 
Well, it's a point.
The abrasive on a webbing strop is both free and fixed. Not as free as in slurry on a Jnat (except when first applied perhaps) - but a stone is a fixed abrasive - so all the parts are there. This is mental gryation leading to nowhere though. Obviously stropping isn't the same as honing. And using any amount of fixed abrasive is going to change things up too. Agreed. Measuring and quantifying it and the results of the effect of the differences though - impossible to prove cleanly.

Along with the choice of materials, a huge part of the story is the direction of the pass. At least - that what it seems like to me. I stopped trying to calculate and started relying on reality (in hand experience) a while back. Proof is in the pudding as they say. Hence the 350+ strokes on linen test.
That just backs up the myriad of pasted honing events I've done across the last 2 yr. When I noticed that the big bad bevel rounding thing wasn't happening, which I originally expected to see...well - a light bulb went off.

Truthfully, any one abrasive will behave differently on the steel depending on the substrate - that's correct.
Whether the effect is good bad or what is another topic. In this matter, one's thoughts on the final outcome are largely subjective.
How the blade is going to feel to someone's face is impossible to target by measuring things. You can line things up but you still can't prove anything - the best you might be able to produce is a spread sheet that lists how many people think one way or another and that list's numbers can change over time. Even so - you may wind up with a majority count of some sort but even that doesn't mean anything.
If 51 people out of 100 like one thing and the other 49 do not - that doesn't mean the 51 people are 'correct' and the others are wrong.

No way to prove it, but a lot of the bad rap on pastes come from new guys who very possibly are trying to polish a turd.
In other words - a bad edge on paste is just a bad sharp edge. I can attest to that being very true so I have to imagine that a percentage of 'paste is bad' reports are based on poor honing skills amplified in a bad way. It's an assumption - but a plausible one.

People are crying over convexed bevels - but they love Coti edges which are, usually, the most convex bevels of all.
Yah - hone on paste with firm/heavy pressure and you'll round the hell out of the blade to the point where the shinogi is no longer crisp.

We're talking such extremely minor geometric concerns though. IMO, none of that matters and it's a smoke/mirrors game. Focusing on that sort of minutae is something that obviates normal concerns.

Chipping, fraying, scoring, etc - all the other stuff people talk about - we hear it about stones too, but not from everyone with that stone - the Shapton 16k for example. Some say it chips, others say no way. Potato patata, whichever way the wind blows I guess.

If you're interestedin a funny story about Alox, shoot me a PM.
 
I still have a lot to learn when it comes to honing. I know the "sharpest" edge will not necessarily have the best feel while shaving. My question is what stone would have a finer grit than .25 diamond spray. Being we are basically using finer and finer abrasives to polish the edge. I am currently finishing on pasted strops and getting great shaves. I would like to try a good finisher though. My face doesn't seem to be as sensitive as most here. I have had two razors that were honed by vendors respected on this site and barely notice the difference between their edges and mine. Thanks guys. I love these threads. I have learned a lot from y'all.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
I don't think you will find anyone who would assign that precise a grit rating to a natural. The finest synthetic stones I know of are the Shapton Glass 30k at 0.49 microns and the Suehiro Gokumyo 20k at 0.5 microns. The Suehiro is reported to produce a smoother edge and is used by most of the pros on the other site. I have the G20k but not the 30k Shapton.

it would probably be more productive to pursue an approach to naturals that explores their strong attributes of smoothness and edge qualities rather than fineness. I'm biased toward Japanese naturals, but acquiring and exploring a coticule and Thuringian along with a decent JNat should provide you with an educational and fun experience.

Edit: Oh and if you want to chase sharp, a hard black Arkansas would be an excellent idea too.

Cheers, Steve
 
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Pastes definitely have their place for touch ups. I'd rather use a good paste than a rubbish barber's hone to bring an edge back. I would rather use a good b hone over any paste though.
 
Buying a nice natural finisher for cheap is not hard, but you have to learn how to get the most from it. Paste you just impregnate and strop.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
I still have a lot to learn when it comes to honing. I know the "sharpest" edge will not necessarily have the best feel while shaving. My question is what stone would have a finer grit than .25 diamond spray. Being we are basically using finer and finer abrasives to polish the edge. I am currently finishing on pasted strops and getting great shaves. I would like to try a good finisher though. My face doesn't seem to be as sensitive as most here. I have had two razors that were honed by vendors respected on this site and barely notice the difference between their edges and mine. Thanks guys. I love these threads. I have learned a lot from y'all.

No synthetic stones, that I am aware of. Certain naturals can behave in a manner that would suggest a finer grit, even though they have no true grit rating. For instance, some hard jnats when the slurry has broken down a lot.

I would caution you on the .25u diamond, though. This is subjective of course, but to me, the .25u diamond is a very awkward stage that produces edges that I do not find very comfortable. However, moving on to .1u diamond seems to give me a much friendlier edge. YMMV, of course, and my use of pastes is probably a lot different than yours. See http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/473580-How-To-Use-a-Pasted-Balsa-Strop.
 
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