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Epoxy Resin for thin MOP sheet

I was wondering if anyone had recommendations for a particular brands (preferably available in Canada) of epoxy that I could use to create a clear coat of resin over a sheet of MOP to add some thickness and create a glass-like cover over it.

I've tried 2 brands of epoxy so far, one of the two seemed to create a decently hard layer, while the other one usually gives mixed results. I guess its a matter of getting the proportions just right. So far I've just used the epoxies coming in joint tubes (syringes).
 
If you want to try something local and not mail order, look at your local hardware store for bar top epoxy. Most places should have it.
I've only used it a couple of times but it seemed to do the trick. I'm sure like most things some hate it some love it
 
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If you want to try something local and knot mail order, look at your local hardware store for bar top epoxy. Most places should have it.
I've only used it a couple of times but it seemed to do the trick. I'm sure like most things some hate it some love it

+1 but I would do some flex tests after application... If it cracks... No bueno
 
Which two have you tried so far? I'm currently working on a project involving MOP veneer as well. It's still a work in progress, but so far I've used Gorilla brand epoxy (syringe) to put a protective coat over an MOP inlay and did a test with it over a piece I wrapped around a wooden dowel (to simulate wrapping around the wedge)...

I've already sanded and buffed out the coating over the MOP inlay. And the coat on the curved test pieces seems to have worked really well.

The only drawback has been air bubbles - have to mix it really slow (keep an eye on your set time) and gently to avoid creating them as the blend is to viscous for them to work their way out before it finishes setting up.

Should work well if you're only coating a small piece - say 1" x 1".

If you are doing the entire MOP sheet, then yeah, probably worth looking into the bar top resins. However, be sure to check both their flexibility and​ their finish thickness...

Another option if you're looking for a very thin layer may be Krylon spray on acrylic gloss coat or some other gloss acrylic spray paint. 5 or 6 patiently applied coats should give you about 0.5 mm of added thickness.
 
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I've tried a no-brand store name, "Lepage" and that one didn't work harden all that well. The other one I can't remember the name, I'll probably recognize it when I see it at the store.

After doing some research, I found mentioned at a few places that you shouldn't use adhesive epoxy, but epoxy resin made for coating (bar/table tops, garage floor etc..). So I was thinking of trying Envirotex Lite, with which people seemed to have decent results.

Sadly I won't have my MOP veneer until a few weeks, but I'll probably try to go out and get some of that stuff and try it out. I read that you can use a hair dryer which can help bring the bubbles back to the surface. I imagine that's also one of the advantage of the other type of epoxy, it takes a few days to settle so it probably allows for the bubbles to vanish.

I was thinking of doing it this way, which seemed to have given some very nice results: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/304262-shell-veneer-scales-WIP


P.S. I was searching online last night for some real and thicker MOP slices, which I could've glued together to make a whole set of scales but those shells are sure expensive!


Which two have you tried so far? I'm currently working on a project involving MOP veneer as well. It's still a work in progress, but so far I've used Gorilla brand epoxy (syringe) to put a protective coat over an MOP inlay and did a test with it over a piece I wrapped around a wooden dowel (to simulate wrapping around the wedge)...

I've already sanded and buffed out the coating over the MOP inlay. And the coat on the curved test pieces seems to have worked really well.

The only drawback has been air bubbles - have to mix it really slow (keep an eye on your set time) and gently to avoid creating them as the blend is to viscous for them to work their way out before it finishes setting up.

Should work well if you're only coating a small piece - say 1" x 1".

If you are doing the entire MOP sheet, then yeah, probably worth looking into the bar top resins. However, be sure to check both their flexibility and​ their finish thickness...

Another option if you're looking for a very thin layer may be Krylon spray on acrylic gloss coat or some other gloss acrylic spray paint. 5 or 6 patiently applied coats should give you about 0.5 mm of added thickness.
 
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There is a product that I use when making carbon fiber sheet. It cures very clear, and quite hard. To remove surface bubbles, a light misting of acetone works well. It will evaporate, and leave a brilliant finish. I will let you know what its called, I just needd to go to the shop and dig it out! lol!
 
After doing some research, I found mentioned at a few places that you shouldn't use adhesive epoxy, but epoxy resin made for coating (bar/table tops, garage floor etc..). So I was thinking of trying Envirotex Lite, with which people seemed to have decent results.

Forgot to mention, as far as epoxy resins go, I've had very good results with System 3's 'Mirror Coat' (if you decide to look into it, you can find a retailer in Canada here). Used it on several wood scales and the finish came out excellent. After sanding and polishing the undersides to remove the drip 'lumps', the sheen was just as smooth and crystal clear as the naturally level and glass-smooth finish on the upper surfaces.
 
Forgot to mention, as far as epoxy resins go, I've had very good results with System 3's 'Mirror Coat' (if you decide to look into it, you can find a retailer in Canada here). Used it on several wood scales and the finish came out excellent. After sanding and polishing the undersides to remove the drip 'lumps', the sheen was just as smooth and crystal clear as the naturally level and glass-smooth finish on the upper surfaces.

Yeah it seem to be what a lot of people use (and probably the guy in the other thread). Sadly I already checked and its not available anywhere near where I am. I almost ordered it online but its starting to be absurd to have to order such supplies online, so I was hoping to try some of what I find locally.

Maybe Bear can find his magic product :-D

Other than that I've also read in a woodworking forum about a manufacturer in Montreal, Plasto, so I may stop by next time I get there.
 
Thanks for finding out the name Bear. I'll have a look around this weekend and see what types of epoxy I can find. There are some boating retailers/repair shops in the next town 45min from here but I'm not sure I'll have the time to drive all the way there for epoxy.

Anyhow there's no rush as the MOP sheets I ordered from China still haven't been sent. I imagine I'll be playing with them sometime in 2014!
 
On the subject of using epoxy to create a nice layer of laminated MOP sheet, I was wondering what to use as a base to laminate the MOP on. The acrylic I have is about 3mm thick, so I imagine I could thin it to half that thickness, glue the MOP sheet to it and apply layer(s) of epoxy on top.

However I might as well get some thinner sheets if possible to avoid the thinning process. Anyone knows if styrene could be use as a good backing material?

Something like this:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/One-1-A4-x-2...Hobbies_Model_Kits&hash=item46079953cb&_uhb=1
 
Did you see brad maggard's MOP scaled w&b a few months ago? He had a post here and I think he has it on his website with all the details in how he did it. He used sheet metal (can't remember if stainless or nickle silver)

here re it is in his site: http://www.maggardrazors.com/index....azor-mother-of-pearl-scales-making-of-part-1/

Yes I had it in my bookmarks already actually! (that and 3-4 other similar threads!). With some more research I answered my own questions. I will make some type of Micarta with some paper, similar to what was done here http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/304262-shell-veneer-scales-WIP

What Maggard did is a little over my skill set for the moment, and also I don't have any thick MOP to use (that stuff gets quite expensive!). So I'll go with some laminates first and then see how it turns out. I'll be sure to update when I get the MOP :)
 
Meh, my local search for epoxy wasn't a big success. Envirotex lite is on homehardware.ca 's website, but not in store, and they have nothing else.. There's nothing at Ace's, and Homedepot has this:
http://www.homedepot.ca/produit/fini-pour-comptoirs-et-tables/983239
and
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/stoneffects-countertop-coating-kit/980213

The guy there told me the second product is high-end and also will cover a larger area for the price. Its a bit on the expensive side but I'm considering it since I was maybe thinking of doing a few micarta plates as well.
 
I'm interested in experimenting with paper micarta as a scale material also. Any tips on this, or how to get useful info from the search function on this site would be appreciated.
 
I've got no advice about the search function.

I haven't tried it yet but the tips I've seen most regarding paper micarta are to make sure you use paper that soaks up the resin (construction paper seems most often recommended) and to be sure to use enough resin.
 
I'm interested in experimenting with paper micarta as a scale material also. Any tips on this, or how to get useful info from the search function on this site would be appreciated.

It seems the process itself is quite simple, there's many good videos on it on youtube, this one is pretty good:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NfC9mogRiM

For the epoxy to use, its another story, it seems there are a lot of people using System Three, but also many other brands less known. I guess as long as its a slow-setting epoxy it should do relatively ok.
 
If your looking at doing micarta check out this site. It's not about micarta but it is a CF supply site. CF, epoxy, gel coats, bagging supply.. a little bit of everything.

Back some years ago, I did a bit of euro / xcounrty racing. I tended to have euro bikes (ie: gasgas, TM, KTM before it was huge..lol).
There wasn't much aftermarket that could be had here. I CF'ed some protection parts using this site. I had good result considering it was diy.
http://www.fibreglast.com/
 
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