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Schick injector

Just acquired this in a lot. Can anyone tell me model, when made, any info? Is there a way to remove a blade without inserting a new blade? I don't like to store it with a blade in it. Sorry for the poor pic; I am still trying to figure this photo stuff out.
 
Is there a way to remove a blade without inserting a new blade?
Yes. Insert the injector key as if to load a new blade. Pull the slider all the way back and let new blade pop up. Push the new blade forward only about a quarter-inch, and the old blade will start to come out the other end. Grab it with a pair of appropriate pliers and pull it out. Pull the slider all the way back again, use tip of ball-point or similar tool to retract the new blade back into box, push the blade stack down and return the slider back to original position. Remove injector key.
 
Thanks, Fritz. Your suggestion worked, I got the (rusty) blade out. E model seems to be right, Straight Arrow. The patent number matches.
Nexr question...any precautions when cleaning it? Don't want to mess up that Bakelite handle.
 
Thanks, Fritz. Your suggestion worked, I got the (rusty) blade out. E model seems to be right, Straight Arrow. The patent number matches.
Next question...any precautions when cleaning it? Don't want to mess up that Bakelite handle.
I would NOT boil it. For final disinfecting, get something like Barbicide or Marvicide or similar at a Sally Beauty supply, or ask your barber.
Before that, I would let the head (up to the plastic) soak in something like Liquid Wrench for a few hours. (Or, spray it with WD-40 about every 15 minutes for an hour or so.) Rinse, scrub with toothbrush and liquid dish soap. You will need a small screwdriver or similar to insert where the injector key goes, to hold the top open, so you can scrub in there. Can use a washcloth and insert where the blade goes and pull back and forth. Pipe cleaners with the little plastic scrubber bristles are good, too. (If you can get access to an ultrasonic cleaner, that would be ideal.)
 
I agree totally with Fritz about sterilizing this razor.

BTW, these things really are great shavers. let us know how it works for you.
 
I also have a blue box type E. If you're REALLY careful you can swivel the spring around to completely open up the head. You can then clean the inside properly. I agree with the WD40 method, boiling or steaming isn't so good for the handle.
 
You can use a toothpick and push the blade out.

It seems to be a fairly aggressive razor- I have the same style from the 40's. Honestly I'm not a huge fan of it, it can be aggressive, but does shave close. The feel is wierd (very light weight, like a plastic disposable), and the grip on the handle can be somewhat slick. I'm going to try a newer injector I won on eBay but I tend to favor DE's- the blades are dirt cheap compared to injector blades. Of course, injector blades are dirt cheap compared to Mach 3 blades, and they last a while too.
 
These gold-toned Schicks with the contrasting handle are pretty little razors. And mine is 60-70 years old? I am going to have to take it for a spin after I clean it and pick up some new blades. Don't know if I trust the ones in the injector that came with it.
I hope this isn't the beginning of a new bout of RAD...
 
I also have a blue box type E. If you're REALLY careful you can swivel the spring around to completely open up the head. You can then clean the inside properly...

I got to this point:
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I got the old blades out and cleaned them well, but I can't get the spring to close back up on either of these Injectors? :cursing: I figure there is something simple that I'm missing. Any suggestions?
 
I got to this point:

I got the old blades out and cleaned them well, but I can't get the spring to close back up on either of these Injectors? :cursing: I figure there is something simple that I'm missing. Any suggestions?

Not all E-types are equal....!

Only the early ones had that option, to be opened and closed by the owner. That is referred to in Appleby's site as E1 and E2. The later ones ("E3" to "E5") were different and should not be opened. If you force it open, it is practically impossible to close without permanently damaging the spring.

How to tell them apart, in fact, the ones that are designed to be opened have a stop point to the right of the spring (when you are looking at the bottom side of the razor) - see left picture. If the spring has a center notch that sits on the guard protrusion, it is not designed to be opened - see right picture.
 
There's a decent section of injector razors in shaveworld.org that places many differences in the time-line perspective and shopws more subtypes. Go to the online encyclopedia there, to the safety razors section, and from the "type" menu choose "Schick". You will see them all there. No need to sign up to see the thumbnails, but if you do it will give you access to the full size of the picture, and it is free (at least it was last time I checked).
http://www.shaveworld.org/shaveworld_web/shave_encyclopedia.php?category=Safety
 
Oops, these are the DO NOT OPEN types. Darn it, they came apart fairly easily after I got the blades out.

Thanks Cutting Edge.
 
I was able to get a small screwdriver under one side of the tang and pop it in place on both razors. I was worried about scratching the brass, but it looks OK. I don't know how you could just not clean in there, it was pretty nasty.
 
i have E, a I and a J intjectors, they give decent good shaves, DE shaves are better,

To each his own, of course. The schick injectors became better and more user friendly in time, evolved like the Gillettes, to a point. The L, N, M, and O models (late 1960's and up) are superior to the older types and coupled with a crisp blade, a serious match for the best DE's.
 
I was able to get a small screwdriver under one side of the tang and pop it in place on both razors. I was worried about scratching the brass, but it looks OK. I don't know how you could just not clean in there, it was pretty nasty.

Way I do it, push out the blade and do the ultrasonic business, takes care of it. But honestly, the old types are less protected from corrosion to begin with, so it may never look great.
 
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