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Naniwa SS Slurry Stone?

Ok - Chosera stones have dedicated slurry stones but Super Stones do not.
Anyone know why? I realize I'm getting good results without a slurry - I just wonder if it would be faster if there was some.
I watched a honing video and the guy used a pocket waterstone to get a slurry - he said he never had any problems doing that. So - maybe that's the ticket. I've considered using the Norton Nagura - but I think that's 1k and I don't think adding 1k grit to a 12k slurry would be a good idea.
Any feedback would be helpful. Thanks in advance...
 
I've seen a video of a guy using a DMT 325 plate to raise a slurry on the Naniwa SS stones.
 
I've seen a video of a guy using a DMT 325 plate to raise a slurry on the Naniwa SS stones.

I was thinking of that too - I wonder if there's any issue of diamond particles getting embedded in the SS or something like that? I use a DMT to lap the hones so I guess if it's good enough for that it should be fine for making a slurry.
I tend to over-think and over-complicate things - it's just that if I'm going to get into this honing thing I don't want to start off with bad habits that will be couterproductive in the long run.
 

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Stjynnkii membörd dummpsjterd
The stone that comes with a Naniwa cho-cera is not a slurry stone. It is a dressing stone, roughly 600 grit, that is used to clean and refresh the stone.
 
I have a Naniwa SS combo 3k/8k and I cut about and inch off of it and use it as a slurry stone.
The stone was originally about 8.5" so it really didn't have any negative effect shortening it 7.5" is plenty of space to hone on. YMMV of course.
It works great. It's definitely not necessary, but it's fun to play around with.
I use it like a coticule probably just cause that's how I learned to use slurry(dilute to water).
I use circles up and down the hone while diluting until there is only water then I do regular X strokes to finish and then move on.
It certainly does speed up the process.
If you do cut a Naniwa be careful cause they chip pretty easy.
I did use a cheap little hand held saw, though a band sand or something similar would probably work much better.
I had a couple of small chips on the slurry stone luckily none on the main stone.
 

Nice vid - thanks - now I wonder why he's going from a 1k King to a 1k Nani?


The stone that comes with a Naniwa cho-cera is not a slurry stone. It is a dressing stone, roughly 600 grit, that is used to clean and refresh the stone.

Ahh... live, learn... wish I didn't have so many questions though...thanks everyone - the assist is greatly appreciated.
 
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Gamma,

I have used the DMT 325 or an in-expensive Matsunaga synthetic nagura for building slurries on my Naniwas SSs (1, 3, 8, 10 & 12 k).

I tend to use the DMT 325 mostly these days.

Seems to work OK for me :smile:

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ
 
I know that building slurries on everything but soap to bathe is de rigeur these days, but I can almost watch my Naniwa 8K melt before my eyes just in a vain attempt to keep it flat. If I also built slurry on it, I would probably need a new one next week!
That said, if that was what I chose to do, I would proceed as said above by cutting a small piece off of it. There is waaaay too much there anyway for my taste..

When one can buy a natural stone for $50 dollars or so that will stand building slurry on it for a lifetime, I just can't figure it, but to each his own..

YMMV, as always...
 
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You want to slurry a Naniwa ss 12k? May I ask why?

Because - there is no learning without experimentation. While I hesitate to speed up the 12k, I would like to try it. Admittedly - it seems counter intuitive and possibly problematic to the refinement of the actual edge itself. Still - I'm curious.

Originally - my ignorance of the little stone that is sold with the Chosera had me wondering why the SS didn't have one. Someone here thoughtfully pointed out that the Chosera's stone was for dressing, not for slurrry.

Unless I push the envelope I won't know what lies ahead. It's like cutting/polishing gems. Sometimes you take a risk, and sometimes the rock shatters on the lap. Other times the trial proves itself and the results are heavenly. One can learn from either scenario. Hopefully the shattered stone was expendable and the successful stone was worth the effort.

I'm gregarious to a point - then I like to try stuff on my own.
 
Because - there is no learning without experimentation. While I hesitate to speed up the 12k, I would like to try it. Admittedly - it seems counter intuitive and possibly problematic to the refinement of the actual edge itself. Still - I'm curious.

Originally - my ignorance of the little stone that is sold with the Chosera had me wondering why the SS didn't have one. Someone here thoughtfully pointed out that the Chosera's stone was for dressing, not for slurrry.

Unless I push the envelope I won't know what lies ahead. It's like cutting/polishing gems. Sometimes you take a risk, and sometimes the rock shatters on the lap. Other times the trial proves itself and the results are heavenly. One can learn from either scenario. Hopefully the shattered stone was expendable and the successful stone was worth the effort.

I'm gregarious to a point - then I like to try stuff on my own.

I applaud your curiosity and openness!

Keep us posted!
 
I would think the composition of the 12k would not make it a good candidate for slrry. I thnk anything up to the 4k would provide adequate results though.
 
I didn't have good results with leaving a slurry on the hone after flattening like sixgun does in his videos - with any of my SS's. Admittedly, he is much more experienced than I am. I found that when I left the slurry on that it clogged the stone and needed to be removed with rinsing and soaking before I got a result I was happy with. I do much better with keeping the SS moist, not soaked, and in fact almost dry when I am at the finishing stages. If you're like me, and not heavy with experience with the SS's, you might spend a little more time finishing up on the previous hone rather than use slurry on the next hone.

I haven't had great results with the 12K. I just can't feel what the difference is between finishing up on the 10K and then starting out with the 12K. In fact, because I usually ended up with no change, or an even duller result with the 12K, I stop honing on the 10K and then moved to sprays on wool/felt. I've heard the 12K works great on finishing up stainless or the very hard new metals (like TI's C135).

I have King 1K, 4K, and 6K stones for sharpening my plane blades and chisels. The 1K Naniwa is much softer, and would wear away very quickly if used very much for setting bevels. The SS makes a much nicer edge though, so I suspect that sixgun uses the SS 1K for finishing the edge, not for setting the bevel. I may be completely wrong. I used the King 1K for setting the bevel, but I was never happy with the eveness of the bevel. I have been using a DMT 1.2K to set bevels and like the result better - though it's not perfect yet, which is my inexperience, not the hone's fault.

Back to your original comment. Try using the SS a little dryer (not dry) to get better cutting action before you try slurry. Be careful though, if you use too much pressure to get more cutting action, you can damage both the hone and the razor edge. This is just for finishing up on the hone.
 
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