After many years of wet shaving, I recently decided to move back to the double edge (DE) razors that I originally learned with. Im in my mid-50s and, after a hustle-and-bustle life in which I balanced two careers, Im ready to settle back into the simple pleasures of life that I have valued in the past.
Since my first shaves with a DE razor as a teenager, I gradually moved to modern razors, but never left the use of a brush and soap. As I recall, the razor was a venerable Gillette clam shell variant that my father had cast off. For years I used the Old Spice brand of soap, only leaving it when I could no longer find it. When the Old Spice brand of soap disappeared, I set out on a search for a replacement, but havent found anything that I like as well so far (Im sure I will though). Ive used various creams like Barbisol and the miscellaneous jels when I went on travel, but always used a brush and soap when at home. Following the absurdities of modern air travel I found myself resorting to just working up a good lather with quality hand soap instead of using the overly thin or overly thick goop in the cans. For several years now Ive use the Gillette Sensor brand of two-bladed razors, the basis for my comparison with DEs.
Having recently decided to venture back to the double edge razor for my daily shaves I ordered two razors. Eager to compare the mild razors to the aggressive razors I ordered a Muehle R89 straight bar and a Mercur 11C open comb. The Mercur seems like a no-nonsense piece of gear, but its plating and general quality pale compared to the Muehle. The Muehle is simply a gorgeous instrument. That being said, I find that the Mercurs stippling on the handle is deeper and is less likely to slip when wet.
I started with the Muehle straight bar loaded with a German made Wilkinson blade. General reviews seemed to imply this blade as a medium quality blade. After a few shaves with this razor, I moved to the Mercur open comb, first with a Mercur blade then a Feather. I chose the latter as posts on this board indicated that the open comb combined with a Feather was the most aggressive shave.
Maybe its because of my technique, but I have found little difference in the two configurations. After a half-dozen shaves with each, I find that I can complete the process with both razors without cuts and get a shave that compares with the modern multi-blade safety razors, but it takes more time. I tend to take more time with the DEs, use a moisturizer before lathering, make shorter strokes, and re-lather for a second pass which I dont do with the multis. The only difference that I perceive between the two razors is that I feel like I am using a straight razor on a T bar with the Merkur. The Muehle feels more like a modern multi-bladed safety razor only with a much bulkier shaving head. At the end of the process with both I end up with a shave that I would say is as good or slightly better than that with the modern blades.
With the modern razors, Ive always shaved with long strokes with the grain of my beard, then shaved against the grain without re-lathering. With the DEs Ive done the same, but re-lathered for the second against the grain shave. I know common wisdom indicates that one should not shave against the grain, but I find that I get a closer shave that way and have never experienced the maladies attributed to against the grain shaving.
Anyway, I probably have a lot to learn about wet shaving with DE razors and a few bad habits to 'un-learn', but so far I just find them a bit more tedious to use. That being said, I really enjoy using that open comb razor. Theres something rewarding about using a really sharp blade that I can feel on my face as it cuts through the beard. Maybe I need to try going straight!
Since my first shaves with a DE razor as a teenager, I gradually moved to modern razors, but never left the use of a brush and soap. As I recall, the razor was a venerable Gillette clam shell variant that my father had cast off. For years I used the Old Spice brand of soap, only leaving it when I could no longer find it. When the Old Spice brand of soap disappeared, I set out on a search for a replacement, but havent found anything that I like as well so far (Im sure I will though). Ive used various creams like Barbisol and the miscellaneous jels when I went on travel, but always used a brush and soap when at home. Following the absurdities of modern air travel I found myself resorting to just working up a good lather with quality hand soap instead of using the overly thin or overly thick goop in the cans. For several years now Ive use the Gillette Sensor brand of two-bladed razors, the basis for my comparison with DEs.
Having recently decided to venture back to the double edge razor for my daily shaves I ordered two razors. Eager to compare the mild razors to the aggressive razors I ordered a Muehle R89 straight bar and a Mercur 11C open comb. The Mercur seems like a no-nonsense piece of gear, but its plating and general quality pale compared to the Muehle. The Muehle is simply a gorgeous instrument. That being said, I find that the Mercurs stippling on the handle is deeper and is less likely to slip when wet.
I started with the Muehle straight bar loaded with a German made Wilkinson blade. General reviews seemed to imply this blade as a medium quality blade. After a few shaves with this razor, I moved to the Mercur open comb, first with a Mercur blade then a Feather. I chose the latter as posts on this board indicated that the open comb combined with a Feather was the most aggressive shave.
Maybe its because of my technique, but I have found little difference in the two configurations. After a half-dozen shaves with each, I find that I can complete the process with both razors without cuts and get a shave that compares with the modern multi-blade safety razors, but it takes more time. I tend to take more time with the DEs, use a moisturizer before lathering, make shorter strokes, and re-lather for a second pass which I dont do with the multis. The only difference that I perceive between the two razors is that I feel like I am using a straight razor on a T bar with the Merkur. The Muehle feels more like a modern multi-bladed safety razor only with a much bulkier shaving head. At the end of the process with both I end up with a shave that I would say is as good or slightly better than that with the modern blades.
With the modern razors, Ive always shaved with long strokes with the grain of my beard, then shaved against the grain without re-lathering. With the DEs Ive done the same, but re-lathered for the second against the grain shave. I know common wisdom indicates that one should not shave against the grain, but I find that I get a closer shave that way and have never experienced the maladies attributed to against the grain shaving.
Anyway, I probably have a lot to learn about wet shaving with DE razors and a few bad habits to 'un-learn', but so far I just find them a bit more tedious to use. That being said, I really enjoy using that open comb razor. Theres something rewarding about using a really sharp blade that I can feel on my face as it cuts through the beard. Maybe I need to try going straight!