What's new

So, I did a real bad thing to a couple adjustables...

A few weeks ago, I found a black handled Gillette Adjustable & A slim adjustable. Both were in great shape (but included used blades and tons of human facial debris). I plopped both in my barbacide jar and forgot about them until tonight. I rinsed them off and sprayed them with scrubbing bubbles and went to work with my toothbrush...

And damned if I didn't kill the paint on the numbers of both razors! I was so upset, because the paint was perfect before! Oh well, they're both still very nice razors in great condition.

Does anyone ever repaint the numbers? If so, what kind of paint? Do you apply it with a toothpick?
 
A few weeks ago, I found a black handled Gillette Adjustable & A slim adjustable. Both were in great shape (but included used blades and tons of human facial debris). I plopped both in my barbacide jar and forgot about them until tonight. I rinsed them off and sprayed them with scrubbing bubbles and went to work with my toothbrush...

And damned if I didn't kill the paint on the numbers of both razors! I was so upset, because the paint was perfect before! Oh well, they're both still very nice razors in great condition.

Does anyone ever repaint the numbers? If so, what kind of paint? Do you apply it with a toothpick?

Heard of someone using some kind of syringe to drop a tiny bit into each number.

Check this out: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=143203&highlight=paint+numbers
 
A few weeks ago, I found a black handled Gillette Adjustable & A slim adjustable. Both were in great shape (but included used blades and tons of human facial debris). I plopped both in my barbacide jar and forgot about them until tonight. I rinsed them off and sprayed them with scrubbing bubbles and went to work with my toothbrush...

And damned if I didn't kill the paint on the numbers of both razors! I was so upset, because the paint was perfect before! Oh well, they're both still very nice razors in great condition.

Does anyone ever repaint the numbers? If so, what kind of paint? Do you apply it with a toothpick?

Black nail polish dabbed into the numbers, then wiped off excess with fingers. Let dry. Repeat if necessary.

I've noticed that if left in Barbicide, some things like paint and ink on razor blades will wipe off. Not right away, but like overnight or longer. I guess people who say it can't dissolve or break up crud are mistaken.
 
I think that when the time comes for me to do that, I'm gonna thin some black paint, use a 1cc syringe with a 30ga needle & let the thinner evaporate before going another round. I'd think that a little thinner on a q-tip would work pretty good to clean up any slop if rubbing by hand doesn't get it.
 
I think that when the time comes for me to do that, I'm gonna thin some black paint, use a 1cc syringe with a 30ga needle & let the thinner evaporate before going another round. I'd think that a little thinner on a q-tip would work pretty good to clean up any slop if rubbing by hand doesn't get it.

Be careful. The thinner might strip the small amount of lubrication in the syringe, which could cause the plunger to not slide smoothly.
 
I read a thread a few weeks ago where someone mentioned that they had purchased a product that is made for golf club restoration that was essentially a fine tip paint marker used for repainting the grooves and numbers on golf clubs. At the time there was a link to the website that showed it was available in several colors including black. I couldn't find the thread now but the product got good marks from the poster for this purpose. FWIW I believe the thread in question was not specifically about this topic which is why I'm having difficulty finding it.
 
I have thought a little about this. When I was a kid I built Gundam models. They had these super fine tip black pens for the models so you could define certain plates on their armor, etc.

I was thinking I could just use one of these pens on the black numbers and wouldnt have any overflow.
 
I've done this a "number" of times. Wooden toothpick, black nail polish. Carefully, with a little polish, trace the numbers using the pick as a stylus. Let dry and use a paper towel or kleenex to carefully rub the excess paint off. Repeat if necessary. Quite a bit of talk about this reducing the value of vintage razor. If you sell it, you will need to disclose you restored the painted numbers. Many people could care less about this purist approach and appreciate the restoration. Its really easy to do and freshens the razor up quite a bit.
 
ditto.... repaint it with black nail polish $0.99 at rite-aid. I've repainted #dials before on an adjustable and just wiped the excess with acetone toilet paper. Worked out great. If you ever sell it though be sure to notify buyer the dials have been repainted.
 
I've done this a "number" of times. Wooden toothpick, black nail polish. Carefully, with a little polish, trace the numbers using the pick as a stylus. Let dry and use a paper towel or kleenex to carefully rub the excess paint off. Repeat if necessary. Quite a bit of talk about this reducing the value of vintage razor. If you sell it, you will need to disclose you restored the painted numbers. Many people could care less about this purist approach and appreciate the restoration. Its really easy to do and freshens the razor up quite a bit.

+1 on this I have done the same thing on a divers watch in 3 different colors.
 
Wow, I feel like I have been doing it wrong just dabbing the nail polish on and wiping it off with my hand as opposed to acetone toilet paper and stylii, etc...
 
Black, fine tip Sharpie, if you only want black numbers and don't plan to resell. Cheapest, easiest route and indistinguishable from paint.
 
Black, fine tip Sharpie, if you only want black numbers and don't plan to resell. Cheapest, easiest route and indistinguishable from paint.


All the above advice is good. The only difference between paint and ink is mostly the formulation of the vehicle. Paint and ink consists of a pigment or dye, a vehicle (turpentine, water, alcohol) and a binder (a glue like substance) to make it stick to the surface. So go ahead, and don't make too big a production of it. :shaving:
 
Just wanted to show what some black nail polish and a finger to rub it off with can do. I finally found my Schick Krona(with the stamped head), and wanted to make it stand out. This took 3-4 applications of a dab of black nail polish, wiping off of the excess, and allowing to dry between "coats". If I ever sell it, do I have to disclose that I "restored" it? :tongue_sm
 
The Krona looks nice. Yes, I'd be up-front about the restoration - and in any case Kronas aren't big collectibles, so no one is likely to care.
 
Just wanted to show what some black nail polish and a finger to rub it off with can do. I finally found my Schick Krona(with the stamped head), and wanted to make it stand out. This took 3-4 applications of a dab of black nail polish, wiping off of the excess, and allowing to dry between "coats". If I ever sell it, do I have to disclose that I "restored" it? :tongue_sm

I don't think Krona's were painted black like this to begin with, so technically it's not a restoration, but a "custom".

BTW, I LIKE it!:thumbup:
 
I don't think Krona's were painted black like this to begin with, so technically it's not a restoration, but a "custom".

BTW, I LIKE it!:thumbup:

They weren't, but I felt it needed it, as if it was a choice overturned by like the president of the company. They were the perfect depth and size to be filled. So I took it upon myself to fix that mistake. I'm eyeing my new PAL Adjustable as well.
 
They weren't, but I felt it needed it, as if it was a choice overturned by like the president of the company. They were the perfect depth and size to be filled. So I took it upon myself to fix that mistake. I'm eyeing my new PAL Adjustable as well.

I think it was a good choice. Looks good!:thumbup1:
 
Top Bottom