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Lapping a Chinese 12K

Where can I get these diamond plate things online for lapping a Chinese 12K?

And secondly, once I have it, do I just run it over the hone a few times to lap it?
 
you can use sandpaper, but the c12k is VERY hard, so should take a bit of doing

I don't mind putting in some elbow grease. What kind of sandpaper do I need? Also, is there a way to tell when the hone is sufficiently lapped? I don't know that the pencil marking trick would work if I was doing it this way...
 
Not wasting any time I see :biggrin:

If I were you, I'd get the DMT lapping plate. I think it is really cheap, and you can have the confidence of knowing it's right and the ability to use it on any future stone that you may get. Just my $.02

If you were going to use sandpaper, you just need to make sure that you make a perfectly flat surface (glass, granite, etc.) and use the adhesive backed sandpaper to make sure it doesn't slide around too much. If you did that, I think the pencil marks will work (provided that you can get a perfect surface). I've been told that noobs to honing shouldn't really attempt that method though because they don't really have the understanding yet of what they really need in a working surface. I'm not so sure.

Best of luck!
 
Thanks Paul. I think I should take your advice since I'm really unsure of my venture into honing so far.

Does anyone have a cheap site for the DMT lapping plate?
 
Thanks for all the information everyone. This has been a great help!

Still, I have to admit that I find it a bit tough to swallow that I have to buy a 75 dollar plate (plus shipping) to lap a 35 dollar hone...sigh...:tongue_sm

I guess Paul's link was cheaper actually. Fendrihan IS a nicely trusted site though...
 
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I have a glass coffee table and I lap my hones on that (doesn't hurt the glass if you stay on the abrasive paper). You want wet/dry abrasive paper like they use in body shops. Any hardware store should have it. 400 or 600 grit should work. Just keep it wet. Also, you don't really need pencil lines on the Chinese 12K because you will actually see the color of the stone changing. Depending on the condition of the stone, this could take several hours.
 
i remember it being a pain to lap and thought i only lapped enough to hone on, not end to end. but after i sold it i checked before mailing it so that the new buyer knows exactly what's lapped and what isn't and i had it lapped completely.

i use dmt8c but sandpaper would work too
 
I hear those stones don't need to be relapped for a long time. Thus, I would go the sandpaper route. I'd buy a pack of 120 grit and 2 packs of 320 grit. Wet/Dry or the 3M stuff, looks green or purple in color. Should be able to get it at an auto store.

Oh, and if no one mentioned it yet, a $5 granite tile should be very flat.
 
Where can I get these diamond plate things online for lapping a Chinese 12K?

And secondly, once I have it, do I just run it over the hone a few times to lap it?

No offense but that's why I use ceramic stones from Spyderco - no lapping . I also stay away from diamond products due to their over the top hardness and their micro blade chipping issues . Good luck with your 12k .

cityjim
 
I also stay away from diamond products due to their over the top hardness and their micro blade chipping issues
i would not consider the hardness 'over the top' and as far as micro chipping on the edge that's not something i've seen.
of course i don't have as much experience as many here, but it's not something that the more experienced guys have been concerned with.

in any case very few razors actually need dmt-c, and the question is about using it for lapping, so i'm not quite sure what honing has to do with it.
 
No offense but that's why I use ceramic stones from Spyderco - no lapping . I also stay away from diamond products due to their over the top hardness and their micro blade chipping issues . Good luck with your 12k .

cityjim

I thought about the Spyderco, but for the most part they seemed to be thin and would require an X honing pattern, which I didn't want... I really am coming into honing for the first time though, so we shall see how it plays out :001_smile

And I think I've decided to go the sandpaper route--I know I've been flip-flopping. But it's just more cost effective. My only concern is not knowing when the hone is completely lapped. Is it possible to overlap? For example, if I just keep running the hone over the sandpaper for hours, can I assume it's good to go? I don't mind doing it for an hour a night for a week even before using it :tongue_sm
 
i would not consider the hardness 'over the top' and as far as micro chipping on the edge that's not something i've seen.
of course i don't have as much experience as many here, but it's not something that the more experienced guys have been concerned with.

in any case very few razors actually need dmt-c, and the question is about using it for lapping, so i'm not quite sure what honing has to do with it.


Basically using a product that doesn't need lapped . Or if it ever does I send it to Spyderco for a free new stone .

And the diamond part , as we all know not much out there is harder . And using it with a much softer material like HCS you get micro chipping . Due to the extreme hardness of the diamond chips used as abrasives . YMMV of course . :001_smile


cityjim
 
I thought about the Spyderco, but for the most part they seemed to be thin and would require an X honing pattern, which I didn't want... I really am coming into honing for the first time though, so we shall see how it plays out :001_smile

And I think I've decided to go the sandpaper route--I know I've been flip-flopping. But it's just more cost effective. My only concern is not knowing when the hone is completely lapped. Is it possible to overlap? For example, if I just keep running the hone over the sandpaper for hours, can I assume it's good to go? I don't mind doing it for an hour a night for a week even before using it :tongue_sm

The answer is no, you cannot overlap. However, there is a point when further lapping becomes pointless. But overlapping only results in further reduction of the stone. So, if your alright with that, you can't overlap.

That said...trust me. You'll want to stop lapping when your done. :wink: The pencil test really does work. Trust us. Draw a grid and when it goes away, your done. If you don't trust it, draw another grid and keep lapping when that goes away. If you still don't trust it.... You get the picture. But I'd trust the 2nd test if you have issues with the first one being rubbed off by slurry or whatnot.
 
The answer is no, you cannot overlap. However, there is a point when further lapping becomes pointless. But overlapping only results in further reduction of the stone. So, if your alright with that, you can't overlap.

That said...trust me. You'll want to stop lapping when your done. :wink: The pencil test really does work. Trust us. Draw a grid and when it goes away, your done. If you don't trust it, draw another grid and keep lapping when that goes away. If you still don't trust it.... You get the picture. But I'd trust the 2nd test if you have issues with the first one being rubbed off by slurry or whatnot.

Great, thanks a lot. I really appreciate all the advice--I'll be heading out for some sandpaper soon!
 
So, just to be sure I have this all down:

I get some wet/dry sandpaper, and I have a glass coffee table that I dont mind scratching...so I wet the paper and stick it to the table, then I draw the pencil grid on the hone, wet it, and rub it over the sandpaper until desired lapping is complete?
 
So, just to be sure I have this all down:

I get some wet/dry sandpaper, and I have a glass coffee table that I dont mind scratching...so I wet the paper and stick it to the table, then I draw the pencil grid on the hone, wet it, and rub it over the sandpaper until desired lapping is complete?

You got it.
 
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