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Eleven Years On

3/4 SOTD

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Tried out the RazoRock handle from my GC with the Prewar Tech today. Lathered with Tabac and the Plissoft 400.

Lather texture was closer to my goal, especially later in the shave. Still bordering on too rich, but a little looser and wetter. Unfortunately I didn't have the foresight to consider that these Tech shaves are going a little slower, and Tabac can't rest on my skin for extended periods without raising some discomfort. So things felt a little rushed--plus I'm quite fatigued, I helped a buddy move into his new house this morning, after working until 1AM the night/morning previous.

Southbound felt effective. This handle throws the balance totally off kilter, but it's the sharp knurling and handle length that actually transforms the shave most noticeably. I have a greater sense of angle, and a stronger feeling of control with this handle. However, I think I'd prefer something more intermediary... who's the B&B member who made the handles @Cal uses???
Second pass I have slightly less difficulty on the right goatee today. Still a lot of stubble remaining after this pass. ATG feels pretty natural, I do a better cleanup on the mustache than yesterday but the chin and jawline present some difficulty. Unfortunately the clock was ticking, I could feel my skin starting to itch from the Tabac. Still some texture left under the jawline, but certainly a DFS+ across the board. Alum is even less detectable today. HydroBoost + CeraVe to finish. Probably the best shave I could manage in my current physical condition, still happy with my overall technique and my ability to manage the blade with lightness.

One quick observation before I sign off: I notice that I'm rinsing the razor very frequently while shaving. I think this is an unconscious habit to try and introduce water (i.e. slickness) at the cutting level, a way of compensating for my tendency to make thicker, heavier lathers. The thicker lathers were learned as a result of mitigating razor irritation from "needing" to use pressure with the 34C. So with changes in razor handling, lots of other techniques are being examined.

Cheers!
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
who's the B&B member who made the handles @Cal uses???

@Rosseforp is the master machinist that delights light handle fanbois — LHF — the planet over.

An “off the rack” alternative would be the handles from the PAA Monster series slants.

So with changes in razor handling, lots of other techniques are being examined.

When one thing changes, everything else shifts with it. I like gripping the heavily knurled RazoRock handles on or close to the base to make the balance stay towards the razor’s head.
 
I think being able to have a great shave using a soap that punishes a leisurely pace while intentionally going slower is a great accomplishment and it was excellent to read.

Also happy knowing I’m not the only person in North America with a 34mm brush.

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@thombrogan, are you baiting me with that? I'm resisting the GIF button....RESIST!

@desertcat, I hope you're taking care. You're still on the recovery curve my man. Take it easy my man and I hope your partner is feeling better!

I agree completely with your thoughts after experimenting with the RR handle with the Prewar. Transformative, forces some technique adjustments, but the length, diameter and knurling are an improvement on the stock handle performance-wise. But it could be lighter...The answer is a @Rosseforp handle :).

Your handle is better looking, in my opinion, than the UFO handle.
 
3/5

Writing a longer time after the shave, so I might not remember all the details. Tried the ball-end handle from my '67 Tech with the Prewar head, same AstraSP loaded so it's headed into its 4th shave. Lathered with Mike's Natural using the Whipped Dog boar.

I build in the bowl and move slowly, trying not to develop too much aeration. I add what I would typically consider overly generous water, but I crack a smile when I apply the lather to my face--a big dab drips off my chin into the sink. This is the texture I've been seeking: more fluid.

Southbound I can feel greater effectiveness and don't have the same urge to rinse the razor head. The slickness is already on my skin, and the looseness of the lather means I'm shaving from the moment the blade arrives at the whisker. This handle is a good compromise of grip, length, and moderately more mass. I'll be pursuing a similar handle... from someone or somewhere... I feel weird cobbling together vintage razor parts, for some reason. Mostly I covet others' SOTD photos.

Lightness slips a little from my focus, and I generally find myself "shaving" rather than thinking. I accidentally go Northbound in the goatee, when my recent habit was to approach horizontally--but the results are good. ATG is very comfortable and reasonably effective, I have an unusually successful and thorough cleanup on the mustache. Chin is more challenging, something about the Tech has a difficult time collecting all the stubble on the right side especially. With a little persistence I get it down to an acceptable level. Some texture remains under the jaw, but there's a lot of BBS- overall. Alum is totally neutral today. I conclude with CeraVe and a splash of Thayer's.

After a couple more shaves, this Prewar Tech will likely be sent to BackRoadsGold for replating. Even if I don't use the original handle, I feel a strange compulsion to return this razor to like-new condition. I'm happy that I've been able to produce more effective, comfortable shaves with a razor I didn't previously enjoy. Question for folks who have had replating done (@Phoenixkh perhaps) has there been a change in razor performance? I know that cap shape can really influence the shave.

Meow!
 
3/6

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Swapped out the worn AstraSP in the Prewar Tech for a Nacet with 1 prior shave. Lathered D.R. Harris with the Yaqi Tuxedo, pressed a slice into the lather bowl this time.

Lather quality was closer to yesterday's, perhaps a little less bulk. Still nice and slick. Southbound was effective, I could immediately detect the blade and felt it working the instant it met my stubble. Second pass was also good, I find myself doing more movements of the face, and turning my head to really see how I'm angling the blade. Third pass is thorough, the trouble spot on the chin required additional attention, I had a better cleanup under the jawline. Right side of the mustache was easy and thorough, for some reason I couldn't decide how to manage the left side as straightforwardly. I did a better job with some stubborn spots between the goatee and lower lip. A closer shave than yesterday, BBS/BBS- result. Alum had a little more presence than yesterday, HydroBoost and CeraVe together to finish.

I still feel like these Tech shaves take quite a bit longer, and I think the smaller gap prevents some difficult whiskers from meeting an easy demise. However I'm getting satisfying results and seeing basically no weepers or irritation, so I shouldn't complain. It will be interesting to revisit the Timeless and remember how to manage a heavy, aggressive razor again.

Take it easy

Thanks for the reminder. I haven't detected any lingering COVID symptoms in myself, unfortunately my partner is still showing an obvious positive test after 9 days. Her symptoms have been mild, but it seems like she's hit a plateau of recovery and patience is wearing thin.

Onward :devil:
 
3/7

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Returned to the Timeless .95 today, the loaded AstraSP had 2 prior shaves. Lathered MWF with the Simpson X2L.

Lather texture is not quite what I'm looking for, it's marginally more hydrated but not as bulky as I'd like. Still worked fine for this shave. Perhaps I needed a bit more scrubbing motion to build volume.

The Timeless reveals that I've gotten a little sloppy with the lightness business. Southbound pass I have no problems, I can sense great effectiveness. By the second pass I'm easily at a DFS, but after all the mildness of the last week I'm searching for a deeper shave. I open a modest weeper on the ATG as I transition across the goatee toward the mustache on the left side. The yawning gap of this razor leaves little room for error. I think the stroke length was too long, such that the head angle didn't appropriately navigate the change in skin topography. And I probably applied pressure. Otherwise the ATG pass is smooth, comfortable, and very thorough. Alum has a flash of presence that fades quickly, HydroBoost and CeraVe mixed to finish. I don't experience any persistent blade irritation, so I've managed to skate by.

It's not quite the mystical, gravity-defying experience of last week's final Timeless shave--but I certainly have no complaints about the performance or outcome. Hopefully in the future it doesn't take as many consecutive shaves ito readjust to the unique challenges of the Timeless. Perhaps it was Mike's Natural that helped make the shave so special...



In the meantime, a SLOC with a Super Knurl handle arrived. Looking over the rotation of razors, all 3 TTOs (Flare, Red Tip, Slim) have been resting on the counter for quite some time. Of the 3, the Slim and Red Tip have the fewest shaves. However, for some reason the FaTip is calling my name... so it may become the next razor I try for some repeated practice. I'll get around to the TTOs eventually.

Extra photo of one of my helpers:

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From hairy one carnivore to another!

Ciao!
 
3/8

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Very Italian shave today: Omega, FaTip, Cella. It was several hours ago and I don't have much energy to write my usual length of entry.

Overall very pleasant, the razor seemed approachable and more easygoing than I recall--probably due to the lack of blade gap, after a couple weeks between the Prewar Tech and the Timeless.95 it felt distinctly smooth. I got a little carried away chasing whiskers, I think with a couple additional shaves I'll dial in the correct angle to make the final ATG pass more effective and thorough (hopefully requiring less cleanup). Only got caught once doing too long of a stroke for a quick weeper on the neck. Will be curious to try a sharper blade (probably a Nacet, just got a 100pk) instead of the AstraSP; Astras are the only blade this razor has seen so far.

Looking forward to some consecutive shaving with this razor. Prior to the .95 I considered the FaTip "too aggressive" for daily shaving. But I think lighthandedness makes almost anything possible... we'll see.

Arrivederci~
 
3/8

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Very Italian shave today: Omega, FaTip, Cella. It was several hours ago and I don't have much energy to write my usual length of entry.

Overall very pleasant, the razor seemed approachable and more easygoing than I recall--probably due to the lack of blade gap, after a couple weeks between the Prewar Tech and the Timeless.95 it felt distinctly smooth. I got a little carried away chasing whiskers, I think with a couple additional shaves I'll dial in the correct angle to make the final ATG pass more effective and thorough (hopefully requiring less cleanup). Only got caught once doing too long of a stroke for a quick weeper on the neck. Will be curious to try a sharper blade (probably a Nacet, just got a 100pk) instead of the AstraSP; Astras are the only blade this razor has seen so far.

Looking forward to some consecutive shaving with this razor. Prior to the .95 I considered the FaTip "too aggressive" for daily shaving. But I think lighthandedness makes almost anything possible... we'll see.

Arrivederci~

Great photo, great post, great kit!

I to am struggling to keep my strokes short, I keep catching myself making this long epic marathon strokes. And I'm sure my angle is off for 70% of those. :)

Thanks for making that observation, it helps drive that point home for me.
 
Great photo, great post, great kit!

I to am struggling to keep my strokes short, I keep catching myself making this long epic marathon strokes. And I'm sure my angle is off for 70% of those. :)

Thanks for making that observation, it helps drive that point home for me.
Short strokes are excellent for working on technique and you get a lot of leeway to get it right. Just check out the videos by @sugardaddy - he also holds his razor rather loosely which allows the razor to pivot somewhat when needed. Haven’t tried that myself, but the short strokes are really great and make me less dependent on growth map and type of stroke (Gillette Slide, slanted, etcetera).

Guido
 
@flask28 some folks seem to be able to go from the sideburn to the adam's apple without lifting the razor... I have not had the same success. Especially during ATG, I have better results when I focus on smaller "planes" of the face, rather than trying to adjust the angle throughout a long stroke. I do find the strokes start longer in the Southbound/WTG direction.

holds his razor rather loosely
I have not tried this method, but I imagine it also works. I prefer the feeling of sure grip and control--but I can imagine developing a certain kind of "trust" with the razor to use this strategy. Shorter strokes give the the chance to reset and evaluate before I bring the blade to bear.
 
3/9

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Same razor and blade, FaTip Grande with AstraSP. Blade has at least 2 prior uses according to my journal. Lathered Mike's Natural with the Yaqi Slivertip.

Lather texture is both weighty and thin-bodied. Don't know how to make the hydration more even, some lather has bulk but not sufficient slickness... I feel like if I brush vigorously I'll just end up with super airy (although maybe hydrated?) lather, if I add less water I'll get a texture closer to what I was previously accustomed... Throughout the shave I try to add a dab of water with each brush application to the face. Best adjustment I could make in the moment.

Southbound feels very smooth again. Productive second pass, easily as close as I can achieve with the Timeless in 2 passes. Good sense of lightness at the outset. ATG is always the proving ground, and unfortunately today my hands could not deliver comfort. When I shaved shallower, I couldn't collect much stubble, but even with a focus on lightness I could tell I was developing some irritation. After rinsing, the chin is barely closer than after the 2nd pass, so I dabbed lather for a quick touchup with better success. Overall I nearly achieved the closeness I prefer, but at a greater cost than I'd like. Two tiny weepers on the neck, one above the chin. Very brief, pronounced sting from the alum--weepers close. Went with a lighter moisturizer; Nivea and a small dab of HydroBoost (want the hyaluronic acid). Still a little lingering warmth and redness on the neck, especially the left side.

Hard to identify what went wrong. I think my struggle with the lather contributed. There may be an additive effect of many days of close shaves, probably yesterday's overclose shave fed into today. I also changed my routine last night, washed and moisturized my face before bed--even with moisturizer, that may have dried out my skin.

But inescapably, good technique is likely the key ingredient that was missing. Something has to change in the ATG approach. Do I need to change my angle (probably) or stroke direction (maybe)?? Do I need greater lightness? (the answer is always yes). Perhaps I was adding pressure while riding the cap. Perhaps I should switch the approach, and lean toward ATG earlier while the whiskers are longer. Will give it another shot tomorrow.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Maybe try an as-close-to-neutral as the razor will allow will help with your ATG passes. That’s where I eventually end up with the nickel-plated Fatip Grande after a skosh of unintentional mutilation.
 
Hello again friends. Sorry I was away for a few days. The shaves I had, while far from perfect, were a welcome respite during an unusually stressful week. I am trying (struggling) to remain optimistic that easier days are just around the corner. We'll see.

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3/10 is the pictured kit: FaTip Grande with AstraSP(4?), Arko, Omega49. I recall an especially comfortable and effective first two passes, with a couple weepers opened on the ATG direction near the goatee. Probably too long a stroke, departed from ideal blade angle. However I remember fairly thorough and long lasting results, with much less (albeit, not absent) feedback from the alum.

3/11 I was thoroughly exhausted, so I strayed from monogamy with the FaTip and used the GameChanger.84-P with a loaded Astra. Lathered Mike's Natural with the Whipped Dog badger. No clue how many shaves were on that blade, but it worked fine. Mustache was noticeably easier to thoroughly shave with this razor. Still a good result but I recall the chin being less cooperative. Similar amounts of detectable, but not pronounced sensation of the alum.

3/12 I returned to the FaTip. Wanted to try a Nacet this shave, lathered MWF with the Plissoft 400. Nacet was distinctly talkative. Felt sharp but not particularly more harsh. Had good, productive early passes. I placed more emphasis on neutral angle during the ATG passes especially. I find it difficult to feel that "sweet spot" with this razor, probably because of the lack of gap. Did a fair amount of skin pulling to try and flatten areas near the goatee, maybe with some success? Still felt like a lot of whiskers evaded a close cut even after ATG, but I resisted the urge to overdo things. Alum no more present than others recent shaves, some lingering itching for a while afterword.

In general I'm glad that I have been working to become more familiar with the FaTip Grande. I have found the shaves reasonably successful in closeness and comfort... though I've definitely sensed more feedback from the alum. Certainly conceivable to use as a daily driver, but requires caution to mitigate harshness. I still haven't quite nailed the ideal blade angle, especially with ATG passes. It will be an interesting segue into trying the RR SLOC, which I imagine has similar characteristics. I am curious how the larger-gapped Timeless.95 OC plate compares with these (presumably much milder) open comb razors.
 

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