OldSaw
The wife's investment
Whether it is soap or cream that you are looking for, there a few things to consider when reading the reviews and making your selection. You will notice the rating breakdowns in the reviews as follows:
Price
Quality
Scent
Lather/Latherability
Efficacy
Moisturizing
Packaging
I would like to rearrange these slightly in order of my own personal preference, add a couple of categories and then discuss each.
Lubricity
Lather/Latherability
Beard softening
Quality
Efficacy
Scent
Moisturizing
Cushioning
Packaging
Lubricity
For me the number one attribute is lubricity. How slick is this stuff? This is where you need to read the reviews to find out what people are saying about it, as there is not a grade for this category. Lubricity may not be as important to you as it is to me. It depends on your body chemistry, razor, water, etc. A straight razor user might want something different than a DE or SE user. Because I use a DE razor I am looking for something that leaves a microscopic film of lubrication after the blade passes, to allow a slick surface for the razor cap or TTO doors to glide on. If there is not enough lubricity, the cap drags as it passes over the skin and can create blade angle problems which can cause razor burn and nicks. I also like to use a technique known as blade buffing, moving the razor back and forth several times over the same spot, which will not work on dry or sticky skin. So I look for soaps and creams that offer maximum lubricity. I find that triple milled tallow based soaps are some of my favorites for this attribute.
Lather/Latherability
Thick and creamy holds in moisture and warmth. Thin lather allows moisture to evaporate more quickly and can be less lubricating. Thick creamy lather also provides more cushioning. Some people claim that only the layer of lather closest to the skin is doing any good and the rest is a waste. I say this is bunk. The extra creamy lather layer that gives it that thickness, is also important to the comfort of the shave. I love the way thick lather feels on my face. Thick lather minimizes drying. Thick lather also provides an insulating layer that holds in body heat, making the shave feel warmer than a thin layer. Finally, thick creamy lather gives a little bit of a cushion effect which I will discuss below.
The lather itself is one thing, but how well does it lather? That’s latherability. Is it quick and easy to generate mounds of creamy, billowy lather or do you have to really work for it? Some soaps and creams just explode into lather with minimal effort. Some of these can be misleading, because you may think you have enough lather before you really do, since the early explosion yields a large volume giving the appearance of rich lather, which may not be fully developed yet. Others might be very difficult to create lather, but could still be a great performer, once the lather is made.
Beard Softening
This is another attribute that does not get graded in the reviews section. I find beard softening to be very important as I have a very tough beard. If you have a very light beard, beard softening may not be important to you. Reading Kyle’s pre-shave prep method, will help you understand how beard softening works. Most products will provide some sort of beard softening, especially when coupled with a warm towel treatment. So far, of everything I have used, I find Santa Maria Novella crema da barba to be the most softening, but it is very expensive.
Quality
The overall quality is subjective. Good ingredients and a product that works for you might be considered high quality. However, it may be offset by a high price. Then there are low quality products that just don’t yield good shaves. All this is covered under the other attributes.
When I think of quality, I often think of certain brands that are synonymous with quality. Most people can use these products successfully unless they have some sort of negative or allergic reaction to them. Some of these are Art of Shaving, Penhaligons, Tabac, Taylor of Old Bond Street, D. R. Harris, eShave, Institute Karite, and others that anyone who spends a little time around B&B will get to know.
Efficacy
Efficacy is another one of those things that gets argued about from time to time. I define efficacy as the product’s ability to do what it does. Do you need half a table spoon or will a pea sized amount get the job done? Can you get three passes out of one batch of lather?
Scent
Scent is something that is very personal. It makes the whole shaving experience more relaxing and enjoyable. I don’t rank it very high on the grading scale, as performance is far more important to me than scent. However, there are two times when I find scent to be more critical.
Scent is extremely important if you find it truly offensive. I don't care how good the soap is, if the scent repulses me I won't use it.
Another time that scent climbs the importance ladder is when I am selecting from a series of soaps or creams that I already know will work well for me. Then scent is really the only thing that matters. For instance, when choosing from the Art of Shaving line up, I know they all work great, so now scent is the only distinction for me.
Moisturizing
It is nice to finish your shave and have your face feel smooth, calm and well moisturized. So why did I put is so low on the list? Well, as long as it doesn’t completely dry my face out, I am OK with it if it performs well, as I normally follow my shaves with an aftershave splash and/or balm.
Cushioning
This is an attribute that some users find important. This is the slight resistance that a lathering product might provide against an aggressive razor. Improving your technique will do more to protect your face than any lathering product.
Packaging
Who cares about packaging, right? Well, it can be important at times. The type of package is more critical than the numerical grade a package might receive. Does this cream come in a tube or tub; is it plastic or a metal one? Will the package protect the product for its useful life?
Many people complain about the cap on the metal Proraso tubes, stripping or becoming cross threaded, even by careful users. If a tub lid doesn’t seal well the cream may dry out before it is all used. If you want to display your lathering products, instead of hiding them in a cabinet, how will they look on the shelf when company visits? Does the shipping/display package protect the actual product until you get it home? A bunch of metal tubes tossed randomly into a box would not be very appealing to me, as it would cause denting and maybe even rupturing.
I prefer tubes for my travel case and tubs for leaving on the vanity at home. However, if the product only comes in one type of container and I want it, it doesn’t really matter.
At some point in time, you have to jump in and try something. When you think you know which attributes are best for you, try one that has favorable reviews for those characteristics. If it works, great, take note of which members gave the most accurate description to your experience. You might want to try some of the other soaps or creams that these members like. If it doesn’t work, again, take note of which members gave the most accurate description to your experience. If a product gets enough reviews, eventually someone will not like it and say why they don’t like it. This can help you avoid additional bad purchases.
I hope this is helpful and look forward to additional input. I ran out of steam on a few of these, so I am looking for other members to add whatever value that they can.
EDIT: Looks like I forgot to address price. The price doesn't always tell you what the cost is. If I can only get two weeks of shaves from a $2.50 soap, it ends up costing me more than an $18 soap that lasts 4-6 months. I put about five months of daily use on a Pre De Provence shave soap, and still have some left, that was only $12 when it was purchased. Santa Maria Novella shave cream comes in a tub that is about twice the size of any other, yet it is still fairly pricey at around $50 a tub (I wish I would have kept track of the number of shaves in an SMN tub).
Then there is the enjoyment factor. Cost per shave is fine for figuring a budget, but if cost were the only thing we'd all be shaving with Williams and Arko. I enjoy the shaves I get with my high end products much more than I do with low end stuff like Williams and VanDerHagen.
This is something I said in another thread about high priced shave products. To the untrained ear a Stradivarius is just another fiddle. The same goes with many of the products that we use. There are also those that have beards which are easy to shave and honestly can't tell the difference between a sharp blade and a not so sharp one, or a high end cream and low end cream. It may not even be experience or training for them, they just may never appreciate the difference in a high end product.
So if you can't tell the difference, then save your money and stick with the cheap stuff. If you can tell the difference, quit cheating yourself and and quit wasting money on cheap stuff.
Price
Quality
Scent
Lather/Latherability
Efficacy
Moisturizing
Packaging
I would like to rearrange these slightly in order of my own personal preference, add a couple of categories and then discuss each.
Lubricity
Lather/Latherability
Beard softening
Quality
Efficacy
Scent
Moisturizing
Cushioning
Packaging
Lubricity
For me the number one attribute is lubricity. How slick is this stuff? This is where you need to read the reviews to find out what people are saying about it, as there is not a grade for this category. Lubricity may not be as important to you as it is to me. It depends on your body chemistry, razor, water, etc. A straight razor user might want something different than a DE or SE user. Because I use a DE razor I am looking for something that leaves a microscopic film of lubrication after the blade passes, to allow a slick surface for the razor cap or TTO doors to glide on. If there is not enough lubricity, the cap drags as it passes over the skin and can create blade angle problems which can cause razor burn and nicks. I also like to use a technique known as blade buffing, moving the razor back and forth several times over the same spot, which will not work on dry or sticky skin. So I look for soaps and creams that offer maximum lubricity. I find that triple milled tallow based soaps are some of my favorites for this attribute.
Lather/Latherability
Thick and creamy holds in moisture and warmth. Thin lather allows moisture to evaporate more quickly and can be less lubricating. Thick creamy lather also provides more cushioning. Some people claim that only the layer of lather closest to the skin is doing any good and the rest is a waste. I say this is bunk. The extra creamy lather layer that gives it that thickness, is also important to the comfort of the shave. I love the way thick lather feels on my face. Thick lather minimizes drying. Thick lather also provides an insulating layer that holds in body heat, making the shave feel warmer than a thin layer. Finally, thick creamy lather gives a little bit of a cushion effect which I will discuss below.
The lather itself is one thing, but how well does it lather? That’s latherability. Is it quick and easy to generate mounds of creamy, billowy lather or do you have to really work for it? Some soaps and creams just explode into lather with minimal effort. Some of these can be misleading, because you may think you have enough lather before you really do, since the early explosion yields a large volume giving the appearance of rich lather, which may not be fully developed yet. Others might be very difficult to create lather, but could still be a great performer, once the lather is made.
Beard Softening
This is another attribute that does not get graded in the reviews section. I find beard softening to be very important as I have a very tough beard. If you have a very light beard, beard softening may not be important to you. Reading Kyle’s pre-shave prep method, will help you understand how beard softening works. Most products will provide some sort of beard softening, especially when coupled with a warm towel treatment. So far, of everything I have used, I find Santa Maria Novella crema da barba to be the most softening, but it is very expensive.
Quality
The overall quality is subjective. Good ingredients and a product that works for you might be considered high quality. However, it may be offset by a high price. Then there are low quality products that just don’t yield good shaves. All this is covered under the other attributes.
When I think of quality, I often think of certain brands that are synonymous with quality. Most people can use these products successfully unless they have some sort of negative or allergic reaction to them. Some of these are Art of Shaving, Penhaligons, Tabac, Taylor of Old Bond Street, D. R. Harris, eShave, Institute Karite, and others that anyone who spends a little time around B&B will get to know.
Efficacy
Efficacy is another one of those things that gets argued about from time to time. I define efficacy as the product’s ability to do what it does. Do you need half a table spoon or will a pea sized amount get the job done? Can you get three passes out of one batch of lather?
Scent
Scent is something that is very personal. It makes the whole shaving experience more relaxing and enjoyable. I don’t rank it very high on the grading scale, as performance is far more important to me than scent. However, there are two times when I find scent to be more critical.
Scent is extremely important if you find it truly offensive. I don't care how good the soap is, if the scent repulses me I won't use it.
Another time that scent climbs the importance ladder is when I am selecting from a series of soaps or creams that I already know will work well for me. Then scent is really the only thing that matters. For instance, when choosing from the Art of Shaving line up, I know they all work great, so now scent is the only distinction for me.
Moisturizing
It is nice to finish your shave and have your face feel smooth, calm and well moisturized. So why did I put is so low on the list? Well, as long as it doesn’t completely dry my face out, I am OK with it if it performs well, as I normally follow my shaves with an aftershave splash and/or balm.
Cushioning
This is an attribute that some users find important. This is the slight resistance that a lathering product might provide against an aggressive razor. Improving your technique will do more to protect your face than any lathering product.
Packaging
Who cares about packaging, right? Well, it can be important at times. The type of package is more critical than the numerical grade a package might receive. Does this cream come in a tube or tub; is it plastic or a metal one? Will the package protect the product for its useful life?
Many people complain about the cap on the metal Proraso tubes, stripping or becoming cross threaded, even by careful users. If a tub lid doesn’t seal well the cream may dry out before it is all used. If you want to display your lathering products, instead of hiding them in a cabinet, how will they look on the shelf when company visits? Does the shipping/display package protect the actual product until you get it home? A bunch of metal tubes tossed randomly into a box would not be very appealing to me, as it would cause denting and maybe even rupturing.
I prefer tubes for my travel case and tubs for leaving on the vanity at home. However, if the product only comes in one type of container and I want it, it doesn’t really matter.
At some point in time, you have to jump in and try something. When you think you know which attributes are best for you, try one that has favorable reviews for those characteristics. If it works, great, take note of which members gave the most accurate description to your experience. You might want to try some of the other soaps or creams that these members like. If it doesn’t work, again, take note of which members gave the most accurate description to your experience. If a product gets enough reviews, eventually someone will not like it and say why they don’t like it. This can help you avoid additional bad purchases.
I hope this is helpful and look forward to additional input. I ran out of steam on a few of these, so I am looking for other members to add whatever value that they can.
EDIT: Looks like I forgot to address price. The price doesn't always tell you what the cost is. If I can only get two weeks of shaves from a $2.50 soap, it ends up costing me more than an $18 soap that lasts 4-6 months. I put about five months of daily use on a Pre De Provence shave soap, and still have some left, that was only $12 when it was purchased. Santa Maria Novella shave cream comes in a tub that is about twice the size of any other, yet it is still fairly pricey at around $50 a tub (I wish I would have kept track of the number of shaves in an SMN tub).
Then there is the enjoyment factor. Cost per shave is fine for figuring a budget, but if cost were the only thing we'd all be shaving with Williams and Arko. I enjoy the shaves I get with my high end products much more than I do with low end stuff like Williams and VanDerHagen.
This is something I said in another thread about high priced shave products. To the untrained ear a Stradivarius is just another fiddle. The same goes with many of the products that we use. There are also those that have beards which are easy to shave and honestly can't tell the difference between a sharp blade and a not so sharp one, or a high end cream and low end cream. It may not even be experience or training for them, they just may never appreciate the difference in a high end product.
So if you can't tell the difference, then save your money and stick with the cheap stuff. If you can tell the difference, quit cheating yourself and and quit wasting money on cheap stuff.
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Excellent stuff!!!
